GIFT  OF 


.'-.*• '. 


.Gardening  in  California 
Landscape  and  Flower 


By 


John  McLaren 

1 1 

Superintendent  of  Golden  Gate  Park 


San  Francisco,  California 


THE 

UNIVERSITY 

Of 


SAN  FRANCISCO 

A.  M.  ROBERTSON 

\ 

i  909 


Main 
Agric. 


Copyright    IQO8 

by 
A.  M.  ROBERTSON 


Printed  by 

Companp 
San  Francisco 
for  QTfje  ^hilopolis  J3rt ss 


Preface 

THIS  handbook  is  respectfully  submitted  to  gardeners  in  Cali- 
fornia, amateur  and  professional,  as  supplementary  to,  and  a 
modification  of  those  excellent  treatises  and  encyclopedias  on 
Landscape  and  Flower  Gardening  which  have  become  the  authorities 
and  text-books  on  the  subject,  but  which  were  written  for  the  condi- 
tions of  climate  and  season  in  European  countries  and  the  Eastern 
States  of  our  own  land. 

In  California  these  conditions  are  so  different,  and  the  possibilities 
of  the  culture  and  development  of  trees,  shrubs  and  flowers  are  so 
much  greater  than  in  Europe  or  any  other  of  the  United  States  of 
America,  that  our  gardeners  have  had  to  do  a  great  deal  of  original 
investigation  and  experimental  work.  The  results  of  such  investigation 
and  work  by  the  writer  are  recorded  in  these  pages. 

The  difference  referred  to  is  well  illustrated  by  the  universally 
loved  Pansy  which,  in  the  Eastern  States,  is  sown  in  February,  flower- 
ing in  May  or  June,  while  in  California  it  is  sown  in  July  and  flowers 
from  November  to  May,  and  also  by  the  Acacia  which,  in  the  East, 
is  grown  in  pot  in  the  conservatory,  protected  by  glass  and  heated  by 
artificial  heat,  whereas,  in  our  State,  it  grows,  a  handsome  tree,  in  any 
soil  in  the  open  air  and  flowers  in  midwinter. 

Although  it  has  been  found  necessary  to  treat  of  the  conservatory 
to  a  certain  extent,  yet  this  has  been  done  only  as  subsidiary  to  the 
main  purpose  of  the  book,  the  treatment,  in  the  conservatory,  of  plants 
which  are  not  hardy  in  the  open  air  locally,  being  the  same  here  as 
in  any  other  part  of  the  country.  It  should,  however,  be  kept  in  view 
that  hundreds  of  trees,  shrubs  and  flowers,  which  cannot  possibly 
exist,  in  the  open  air,  in  those  parts  of  the  United  States  and  Europe 
where  the  climatic  conditions  are  more  harsh  than  here,  flourish  and 
give  grand  effects  out  of  doors  in  California. 

During  his  gardening  experience  of  thirty-five  years  in  various 
parts  of  California,  but  particularly  during  the  past  twenty  years  of 
his  superintendency  of  Golden  Gate  Park,  San  Francisco,  the  author 
has  had,  from  all  over  the  State,  a  great  number  of  inquiries  and 
requests  for  advice  and  suggestions. 

These  inquiries  have  become  so  numerous  that  it  has  been  prac- 
tically impossible  for  him  to  answer  them  all,  and  such  replies  as  he 

[v] 


Preface 


has  been  able  to  give  have  necessarily  been  very  brief.  He  therefore 
believes  that  his  experience,  as  now  embodied  in  this  book,  will  be  of 
interest  and  perhaps  value  to  those  who  take  delight  in  the  wonderful 
results  with  which  the  fertile  soil  and  genial  climate  of  our  State 
reward  their  earnest  and  loving  labor. 

It  is  believed  that  the  practical  value  of  the  work  is  added  to  by 
the  illustrations  which  are  all  from  photographs  especially  taken  for 
this  purpose. 

In  writing  the  book  the  author  has  had  the  able  collaboration  and 
assistance  of  his  friend  Mr.  James  C.  Fyfe  of  San  Francisco,  of  which, 
in  this  place  he  desires  to  record  his  deep  and  grateful  appreciation. 

That  this  book  may  give  pleasure  and  be  of  use  to  all  who  strive 
to  make  our  State  even  more  attractive  by  adding  to  the  beauties  of 
its  landscape  and  gardens,  is  the  earnest  hope  of 

THE  AUTHOR. 


[vi 


Contents 


PREFACE 
CHAPTER 


i. 


CHAPTER    2. 


CHAPTER 
CHAPTER 
CHAPTER 
CHAPTER 
CHAPTER 
CHAPTER 
CHAPTER 


CHAPTER  10. 

CHAPTER  n. 

CHAPTER  12. 

CHAPTER  13. 

CHAPTER  14. 

CHAPTER  15. 

CHAPTER  16. 

CHAPTER  17. 

CHAPTER  18. 
CHAPTER  19. 


CHAPTER  20. 

CHAPTER  21. 
CHAPTER  22. 


Page 
v 

THE  LOCATION  OF  A  SITE  FOR  HOUSE 
AND  GARDEN  AND  THE  PRELIMINARY 

PLANS i 

PLANNING      THE      PLEASURE  -  GARDEN 

AND  GROUNDS 12 

PREPARATION  OF  THE  GROUND  .  .  37 
CONSTRUCTION  OF  ROADS  AND  WALKS  40 
PLANTING  AND  TRANSPLANTING  .  .  47 

LAWNS 54 

TREES  AND  SHRUBS 59 

CLIMBERS  AND  TWINERS  ....  170 
BULBOUS  AND  TUBEROUS  ROOTED 

PLANTS          181 

PALMS .       .193 

FERNS 202 

BAMBOOS  AND  GRASSES 209 

SUCCULENTS 217 

HERBACEOUS  AND  BEDDING  PLANTS  .  224 
PONDS,  LAKES  AND  THE  WATER 

GARDEN         .       . 280 

PARLOR  GARDENING         .       .       .       .  292 

THE  WINDOW  BOX      ......  294 

THE  AMATEUR'S  CONSERVATORY     .       .  299 
TREATMENT     OF     THE     COMMON     DIS- 
EASES   OF,   AND   INSECTS   INJURIOUS 
TO  PLANTS 


A     FEW     EXPLANATIONS     AND     DIREC- 
TIONS      

SAND  RECLAMATION 

CALENDAR  OF  OPERATIONS  .       %. 
[viil 


302 

309 
319 
329 


Illustrations 

Page 

Gateway  Shaded  by  Trees 3 

Outline  of  Lawn  and  Grouping  of  Trees 7 

Grounds   Decorated   with   Palms.     Cocos   Plumosa   as   Sidewalk 

Tree        . 9 

Cottages  with  Lawns  in  Front.     Fan  Palms   (Washingtonia  So- 

norea)  as  Sidewalk  Trees 15 

Planting  List,  for  Lot  25'  x  120'       .        .        .        .     -  .        .        .  20 

Planting  List,  for  Lot  40'  x  120'       , 21 

Planting  List,  for  Lot  50'  x  150'       .                22 

Planting  List,  for  Lot  75'  x  150' 23 

Planting  List,  for  Lot  100'  x  180' 25 

Planting  List,  for  Lot  150'  x  200' 27 

Planting  List,  for  Lot  200'  x  350' 29 

Planting  List,  for  Lot  300'  x  400' 31 

Planting  List,  for  Ten-Acre  Tract 34,  35 

Walk  with  Rustic  Benches.     Background  of  Pines  and  Firs     .  41 
Formal    Gardening.     Walks     Converging    to     Fountain.     Back- 
ground Heavily  Wooded 43 

Driveway  Showing  California  Laurel  (to  Left  of  Illustration),  and 

Oaks ;  also  Ivy-Covered  Stump 45 

Walk  Lined  with  Dracaenas .        .46 

Moving  a   Palm  35   Feet   High   and   Weighing  Over  40  Tons, 

Wine  Palm  of  Chile  (Jubea  spectabilis)        .        .  .        -49 

Lawn  Outline.     Eucalyptus  and  Conifers 53 

Lawn  with  Tree  Groups 55 

Abelia  rupestris 59 

Abies  Morinda 60 

Abies  Mertensiana 61 

Albizzia  Julibrissin 63 

Abutilon 64 

Acacia  armata 65 

[ix] 


Illustrations 


Page 

Acacia  lophanta 65 

Achania  malvaviscus 67 

Azalea 71 

Bouvardia -74 

Buxus        .        .        . 75 

Callistemon 76 

Camellia 77 

Cassia         .,.,,, 79 

Casuarina 80 

Ceanothus .        .        .80 

Cedrus  Libani.     (Young  Specimen) ,    .        .81 

Portugal  Laurel       .        .        ,        .        .        .        .        .        .        .  ~     ,  82 

Cercis , 83 

Cestrum 83 

Choisya  ternata ; 84 

Cistus ; 84 

Clianthus  puniceus  ....        ......  86 

Cotoneaster 8g 

Cupressus  Lawsoniana 90 

Cupressus  Nutkatensis — the  Alaskan  Species 91 

Broom 93 

Datura  suaveolens   . 94 

Echium 96 

Erica  persoluta  alba 97 

Escallonia  rosea 99 

Eucalyptus  ficifolia  .        .        . 101 

Eugenia  latifolia 104 

Fabiana 106 

Ficus  elastica 107 

Fraxinus  excelsior no 

Gardenia in 

Hypericum 116 

lochroma  tubulosa 118 

Juniperus  Chinensis 120 

[x] 


Illustrations 


Page 
Lantana I22 

Lasiandra  macrantha .123 

Leptospermum    ...                        .  .124 

An  Arbor  of  Leptospermum  laveagatum  ...                        •    I25 

Libocedrus  decurrens      .        .        •        •  .        .                                .127 

Ligustrum  Japonicum     ...  .128 

Magnolia  stellata      ...  •    I3° 

Melaleuca  leucadendron  .        .        .  •    I3I"I33 

Mespilus  Japonica    ....  •    J34 

Metrocederos  robusta      .....        .  -•        •            X35 

Nandina  domestica          .  •    J37 

Philadelphus      .        .        .,      ...       ..  •    HO 

Pimelia  rosea    .        .  •    *42 

A  Group  of  Pines     ....  •    M3 

Pittosporum  undulatum          .  •  .                                     •    X44 

Polygala  Dalmaisiana     .  •    T46 

Prunus  sinensis        .                .  *                                        •    Z47 

Punica  granatum      .  .148 

Pyrus  floribunda    ......  .148 

Quercus  suber  .      ..        .  •    I5° 

Rhododendron          .  •    I5I 

Romneya  Coulterii  .  •    J53 

Sequoia  gigantea      ...  •    J55 

Spartium  junceum     .  

Spirea         . 

Streptosolen      .  •• 

Swainsonia 
Syringa  vulgaris 
Taxodium 
Thuya  gigantea 
Torreya  Coulterii     . 
Ulmus 

Veronica  decussata          .  ... 

Viburnum  tinus        .  •                                         '    ] 

[xi] 


Illustrations 


Page 

Virgilia  lutea 169 

Bignonia  cherere 171 

Bougainvillea 172 

Clematis 172 

Lathyrus  odoratus 175 

Lonicera 176 

Mandevillea  suaveolens 177 

Muehlenbeckia  complexa 178 

Wistaria 180 

Agapanthus 181 

Iris 184 

Narcissus 187 

Cocos  plumosa  as  Sidewalk  Tree 195 

Phoenix  Canariensis 197 

Natural  Group  of  Washingtonias  (California  Fan  Palm)        .        .  199 

Group  of  Tree  Ferns 203 

Ferns  and  Grasses  in  Rockery 207 

Bamboos    .        .        .        .' 211 

Pampas  Grass 215 

Aloe  vera 218 

Echeveria 220 

Crassula  coccinea 221 

Mesembryanthemum  spectabilis 222 

Sedum 223 

Ageratum 225 

Begonia  vernon 230 

Campanula  carpathica 233 

Canna  indica 234 

Cineraria  hybrida 237 

Dahlia  imperialis 239 

Digitalis 244 

Doronicum 244 

Fuchsia 245 

Specimen  of  Fuchsia       .        .        .     • 247 

[xii] 


Illustrations 


Page 

Stock          .        .        . 255 

Pentstemon .   261 

Petunia 262 

Poinsettia .   265 

Primula  obconica .   266 

Verbena .  •   275 

Pansy 276 

Small  Lake  with  Pampas  Grass .   283 

Small  Lake  Bordered  with  Willow  and  Pine 287 

Pond  with  Lilies      ........  .289 

Babylonian  Willow •   291 

Window   Boxes        ....  .   295 

Interior  of  Greenhouse .  -   3°° 

Canary  Islands  Date  Palm .   3°8 

Formal  Gardening  with  Grass  Walks  .  •   321 

Eucalyptus  in  Sand  Near  Coast     .        .  •   323 

Albizzia  Julibrissin  in  Flower       .  •   327 

Deciduous  Oaks       ...  •   331 

Terraced  Front.     Camphor  Trees  on  Sidewalk       .  337 

Lawn  and  Driveway       .....  •   343 

Hedge  Front,  Clipped  Trees  and  Palms     .  •   351 

Formal  Approach,  with  Italian  Cypress      .  •   359 

Summer  House.     Standard  Roses  on  Border  of  Path     .  .   365 

Group  of  Varieties  of  Palms  ....  •   373 


The    Locatio  ri    6  fa    Si  t  e 


Lir?X 

OF  THE  A 

UNIVERSITY  ) 

OF 


CHAPTER  I. 

THE    LOCATION    OF    A    SITE    FOR    HOUSE    AND    GARDEN,    AND    THE 
PRELIMINARY    PLANS. 

AS  the  location  and  laying  out  of  the  grounds  which  he 
has  to  cultivate  are  important  factors  in  the  success  of 
the  gardener  in  California,  as  elsewhere,  a  few  practical 
suggestions  upon  these  points  are  deemed  advisable  and  in  keep- 
ing with  the  general  plan  of  the  book. 

Before  the  best  selection  can  be  made,  one  must  have  a  gen- 
eral knowledge  not  only  of  the  locality  where  he  intends  his  home 
and  garden  to  be,  but  also  of  its  surroundings.  Many  important 
points  should  be  taken  into  consideration — especially  the  aspect 
and  the  altitude, — in  deciding  whether  the  top  of  a  hill,  or  a  hill- 
side, or  a  flat,  low,  sheltered  spot  is  to  be  preferred. 

How  much  not. only  the  locality  but  also  the  aspect,  (that  is 
whether  facing  the  North,  South,  East  or  West)  affects  the  cul- 
ture of  the  garden  can  scarcely  be  appreciated  by  those  who  have 
not  studied  this  very  important  subject.  For  example,  few  may 
realize  the  difference,  in  the  one  point  of  shelter,  between  a  gar- 
den laid  out  facing  the  North  and  one  facing  the  South,  or  (par- 
ticularly in  San  Francisco  where  the  prevailing  wind  in  the 
•Summer  season  is  from  the  West)  between  a  garden  facing  the 
East  and  one  laid  out  so  as  to  face  the  West. 

In  choosing  a  site  for  a  dwelling-house  and  garden,  an  aspect 
facing  the  South  or  South-east  should  be  preferred,  as  it  will  be 
better  sheltered  from  the  prevailing  winds  and  have  a  much 
warmer  temperature  than  one  facing  the  West  or  North.  Land 
facing  the  South  will  have  earlier  flowers,  and  may  be  more  com- 
fortably visited  and  enjoyed  at  all  seasons,  as  the  ground  and 

[i] 


G  a  r  d  e  h  i  n  g    i  n    California 


walks  will  dry  more  quickly  after  watering  or  after  rains  than 
they  would  if  facing  the  North. 

Another  exceedingly  important  point  to  be  kept  in  view  is 
that  water — and  water  in  abundance — must  be  provided  for  a 
garden,  for  unless  there  is  an  ample  supply  during  our  long  Sum- 
mer, gardening  in  general  cannot  be  successful.  Therefore  it  is 
necessary  before  selecting  a  site  for  the  garden,  to  see  that  water 
may  be  had  in  generous  quantities  and  at  all  times,  either  from 
wells,  by  pipe  from  reservoir,  or  by  ditch  from  stream.  In  the 
neighborhood  of  cities  and  large  towns  it  may  be  procured  from 
public  works,  and,  of  course,  within  the  cities,  water  can  be  had 
in  any  reasonable  quantity  desired,  but  in  the  country,  or  where 
there  are  no  public  pipes  in  the  vicinity,  wells  will  have  to  be 
bored  or  dug,  or  a  supply  procured  by  the  other  means  suggested. 

After  the  site  is  selected,  the  next  study  should  be  the  pre- 
liminary plan  for  the  improvement  of  the  ground,  the  first  and 
most  important  point  to  be  decided  being  upon  what  part  of  the 
site  the  dwelling-house  shall  be  built.  This  requires  long  and 
careful  study,  for  the  ground  must  be  visited  frequently  and  at 
different  times  of  the  day,  in  stormy  weather  as  well  as  when 
the  days  are  warm  and  sunny.  Consideration  must  be  given  to 
the  views  that  may  be  enjoyed  from  the  windows  of  the  different 
rooms,  and,  in  connection  with  this,  it  is  necessary  to  anticipate 
the  possible  use  to  which  the  adjoining  properties  may  be  put, 
especially  as  to  whether  there  is  a  likelihood  of  buildings  being 
erected  so  as  to  interfere  with  or  be  a  blot  upon  expected 
views.  Then  if  there  are  any  objectionable  features  on 
neighboring  properties,  this  is  the  time  when  the  plans 
should  be  prepared  so  that,  in  the  arrangement  of  the  build- 
ing and  planting  of  the  grounds,  these  objectionable  points  may 
be  shut  off  from  view  as  much  as  possible. 

When  the  part  of  the  grounds  upon  which  the  house  is  to  be 
built  has  been  determined,  it  should  be  staked  off  with  strong 
stakes,  (say  four-inch  by  four-inch  pine),  driven  in  three  feet 


Gateway  Shaded  by  Trees. 


The      Preliminary      Plans 


and  standing  five  feet  above  the  ground,  so  that  the  four  corners 
of  the  proposed  house  may  be  seen  from  some  distance,  and  that 
thus  the  effect  of  the  building  may  be  studied  from  the  street,  or, 
if  the  grounds  are  of  large  extent,  from  different  points  along  the 
lines  of  the  projected  drive  or  walks  leading  to  the  building. 
Where  very  large  grounds  are  to  be  laid  out,  flags  set  on  tall 
poles  will  be  necessary  to  properly  define  the  outlines  when  view- 
ing the  effect  from  a  distance,  and,  at  this  time  also,  the  sites 
for  stables  and  any  other  necessary  outbuildings  should  be 
staked  off  in  similar  way.  It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say  that  such 
buildings  as  the  stables  must  be  placed  at  the  rear  of  the  house. 

The  house  must,  of  course,  be  connected,  by  either  a  walk  or 
driveway  or  both,  with  the  street  or  public  road,  and  an  entrance 
gateway  provided  at  the  most  convenient  and  effective  part  of 
the  frontage,  so  the  next  step  to  take  is  to  determine  where  the 
main  gateway  shall  be  located.  This,  if  possible,  should  be  at  a 
point  where  the  street  or  public  road  is  on  the  same  level. 

After  the  spot  for  the  gateway  is  located,  the  approach  to 
the  house  should  be  staked  off  by  a  center  line  of  stakes.  The 
principal  roadway  should  be  carefully  studied  from  every  possible 
point,  that  is,  from  the  house  site,  from  the  gateway  and  from 
other  points  where  the  effect  will  be  seen,  no  pains  being  spared 
to  insure  this  being  planned  out  in  the  best  possible  manner  and 
along  the  best  possible  line.  When  the  grounds  are  of  consider- 
able extent,  it  should  also  be  made  sure  that  a  glimpse  of  the 
house  will  be  had  from  one  or  two  points  along  the  road.  The 
side  lines  for  the  principal  roadway  should  then  be  staked  off, 
these,  if  a  driveway,  being  at  least  sixteen  feet  apart,  or,  if  a 
foot-path,  not  less  than  eight  feet.  The  stakes  should  be  at  least 
one  and  one-quarter  inch  square  and  about  three  feet  in  length, 
and  driven  one  foot  deep,  leaving  two  feet  above  the  ground  to 
mark  the  lines  of  the  proposed  drive  or  walk. 

After  the  principal  approach  to  the  house-site  has  been 
decided  upon  and  staked  out,  the  necessary  walks  and  roads 

[5] 


Gardening    in    California 


connecting  the  house-site  with  the  sites  of  the  stables  and  other 
outbuildings  must  be  marked  and  staked  in  similar  way  as  for  the 
main  approach.  It  is  strongly  urged  that  care  should  be  taken 
to  have  these  walks  in  reasonably  direct  lines,  for  unless  they  are 
direct,  they  will  not  be  followed,  and  those  who  are  compelled 
to  go  to  these  outbuildings  many  times  a  day  will  be  sure  to  make 
short  cuts,  trampling  down  grass  and  perhaps  fine  shrubbery,  such 
foot-paths  and  trails  always  giving  an  uncared-for  effect  and 
being  blemishes  in  any  property. 

Before  beginning  the  planting  of  the  trees  and  shrubs  for 
sheltering  and  ornamenting  the  grounds,  (this  subject  being  fully 
considered  in  other  chapters)  the  grounds  should  be  carefully  sur- 
veyed and  platted,  the  house-site,  the  sites  of  the  outbuildings,  the 
approach  and  roads  of  all  kinds  being  marked  on  the  plat. 

When  the  grades  and  positions  of  the  different  buildings  have 
been  established  and  marked,  and  the  approach  and  other  roads 
staked  off,  all  the  building-sites  should  be  roughly  graded,  and 
the  fills,  if  any,  on  the  roadways  and  walks  leveled  up. 

But  first,  before  beginning  this  rough  grading,  careful  pro- 
vision must  be  made  for  saving  all  of  the  good  top-soil  which  may 
be  found  on  the  sites  of  the  buildings,  the  roads  and  the  walks. 
The  importance  of  this  will  be  realized  when  the  work  of  plant- 
ing the  ground  is  taken  up  and  when  this  good  top-soil  will  be 
of  the  greatest  value.  How  often  do  we  find  that  this  exceedingly 
valuable  natural  soil  has  been  carelessly  used  for  making  fills  or 
road-beds  and  embankments,  instead  of  having  been  saved  for 
improving  the  many  pieces  of  poor  soil  for  which  this  natural 
top-soil  would  have  been  the  covering.  Every  yard  of  such  good 
soil  saved  from  grading  operations  can  be  used  at  some  point  of 
the  grounds  where  trees,  shrubs  and  plants  are  to  be  set  out. 

After  the  survey  of  the  grounds  has  been  platted,  (as  sug- 
gested above,  the  sites  of  the  main  building  and  outhouses  as 
well  as  the  lines  of  the  roads  and  walks  being  marked  on  that 
plat),  the  next  important  work  will  be  preparing  the  plan  of 

[6] 


The     Preliminary     Plans 


planting,   and  this,   in  its  turn,  will  require  the  most  careful 
consideration. 

If  the  grounds,  which  are  to  be  planted,  are  exposed,  strong- 
growing  hardy  trees  which  will  stand  the  harsh,  drying  winds 
will  have  to  be  selected  for  the  outer  planting  or  sheltering 
groups,  reliance  being  placed  upon  these  hardy,  sturdy,  vigorous 


Outline  of  Lawn  and  Grouping  of  Trees. 

growers  to  give  shade  and  shelter  to  those  tender  but  more  orna- 
mental kinds  which  cannot  stand  so  much  exposure. 

Should  the  site  be  well  sheltered  naturally  by  trees  or  by 
neighboring  hills,  or  should  it  be  in  a  flat  open  country,  it 
will  not  be  necessary  to  plant  the  common,  hardy  trees  in  such 
large  numbers  for  that  purpose. 

In  preparing  the  plan  of  planting,  care  should  be  taken  to 
connect  the  different  groups  under  one  general  plan,  and  not  to 
gather  the  trees  and  shrubs  in  spots  or  in  stiff,  formal  lines  at 
equal  distances  apart.  Perhaps  the  best  place  from  which  to 

m 


Gardening    in    Californi 


study  the  plan  (of  planting  and  grouping  the  trees  and  shrubs) 
is  from  the  house-site,  the  effect  being  judged  from  the  points  on 
the  house-site  where  the  principal  windows  and  doors  and  veran- 
das will  be.  When  the  grounds  are  large  enough,  the  main  lawns 
or  grass  plots  will,  of  course,  be  located  immediately  about  the 
house,  and  the  groups  of  trees  with  their  undergrowth  of  shrubs 
can  be  massed  round  and  about  the  lawns,  these  forming  the  out- 
lines for  the  grassy  surface.  These  outlines  should  be  made  as 
informal  as  the  nature  and  size  of  the  grounds  will  permit.  Bold 
points  of  trees  and  shrubbery  should  project  into  the  lawn  space, 
and  again  the  grassy  surface  should  be  allowed  to  run  deep  into, 
as  if  getting  lost  among,  the  tree  groups,  the  plan  always  avoid- 
ing anything  formal  either  in  the  shape  of  the  grassy  inlets  or 
of  the  shrubbery  groups. 

In  this  connection  it  is  suggested  that  some  consideration  be 
given  to  what  may  be  termed  the  happy  accidents  of  Nature's 
planting,  for  in  some  of  the  untouched  virgin  spots  in  Nature's 
garden  there  are  scenes  more  soft  and  more  beautiful  than  any- 
thing our  gardening  has  yet  produced.  Those  who  have  under- 
taken to  do  what  we  are  now  considering — that  is,  to  plant  a 
pleasure-garden  and  lawns — and  are  in  doubt  as  to  how  to  estab- 
lish the  lines  of  the  lawns  or  the  groups  of  trees,  shrubs  and 
flowers,  may  get  invaluable  suggestions  as  to  how  to  arrange 
them  in  harmonious  composition  if  they  will  do  as  our  best 
painters  do, — namely,  go  into  the  natural  forests  of  our  hills  and 
hillsides,  or  the  meadows  and  haughs  of  our  valleys,  and  select, 
from  the  innumerable  beautiful  scenes,  the  one  whose  beauty  most 
appeals  to  them  and  which  seems  to  best  fit  the  general  outline 
of  the  site  for  which  the  plans  are  being  prepared.  Then  let  the 
measurements  of  this  part  of  Nature's  garden  be  carefully  taken, 
figuring  what  are  its  length,  and  its  breadth ;  what  are  the  depth 
and  width  of  the  grassy  bays  which  seem  to  meander  through  the 
Forest;  also  the  form  and  shape  which  these  bays  assume.  It 
will  be  found  that  Nature  seldom  runs  straight  lines  and 

rsi 


The     Preliminary     Plans 


shaped  curves.  Let  the  woody  promontories  be  measured,  figur- 
ing how  far  each  one  projects  into  the  meadow  and  noting  how 
Nature  has  done  its  planting, — how  far  one  tree  is  from  the 
other,  and  how  harmonious  the  whole  plan  is. 

After  having  sketched  into  a  rough  map  all  of  the  trees  with 
their  names  and  characteristics,  the  different  shrub-growths  should 
next  be  similarly  studied  and  sketched  in,  especially  noting  how 
they  are  distributed.  After  these,  and  any  other  data  which 
seem  to  be  of  importance  in  the  general  effect,  are  carefully 
platted,  let  this  rough  sketch  be  laid  out  to  scale  and  reduced  or 
enlarged  to  fit  the  plan  for  the  proposed  grounds.  If  the  propor- 
tions of  the  original  are  faithfully  carried  out  and  imitated  in 
the  form  and  outlines  of  the  lawns  and  in  the  character  and 
planting  of  the  trees  and  undergrowths,  the  result  will  be  a 
delight  to  the  owner  and  an  artistically  laid  out  property. 

There  are  numerous  instances  of  such  spots  in  our  Redwood 
Forests  and  in  the  Sierras.  Some  of  the  sweetest  landscapes  are 
to  be  found  in  these  mountain  meadows,  and  they  always  afford 
the  greatest  delight  to  the  eye  of  taste  when  they  are  unexpect- 
edly discovered,  enriched,  as  they  are,  with  beds  and  tufts  of 
wildflowers,  grasses  and  ferns. 

The  form  and  outlines  of  the  different  groups  of  shelter-belts 
being  platted,  the  next  points  to  decide  will  be  what  to  plant  in 
each,  and  what  character  of  picture  is  desired.  This  is  treated 
in  detail  in  chapter  2,  but,  when  preparing  the  plan  of  planting, 
it  should  be  considered  of  the  utmost  importance  to  break  and 
soften  the  hard  lines  of  groups  by  planting  single  trees  apart 
from  the  main  bodies  in  the  groups. 


Gardening    in    California 


CHAPTER   II. 

PLANNING     THE     PLEASURE-GARDEN     AND     GROUNDS. 

THE  subject  of  this  chapter  is  one  which  should  receive 
very  careful  consideration  before  the  work  is  actually 
begun,  and  a  detailed  PLAN  of  planting  should  be 
sketched  out,  especially  keeping  in  view  what  the  effect  of  the 
trees,  shrubs  and  plants  will  be  when  they  reach  maturity.  What 
that  plan  of  planting  actually  may  be  depends  very  greatly  upon 
how  the  ground  is  located. 

If  the  site  selected  is  on  a  hill,  the  character  of  the  planting 
will  be  entirely  different  from  that  of  a  location  on  a  level  plain, 
where  the  situation  is  more  likely  to  be  well  sheltered  and  favored 
with  a  deep,  rich  soil. 

In  this,  as  in  every  work  we  undertake,  the  first  thing  to  be 
considered  is  the  end  in  view,  and  the  next  the  best  means  of 
attaining  that  end.  As,  in  the  planting  of  a  Pleasure-Garden 
and  Grounds,  the  end  to  be  attained  is  how  the  trees  and  plants 
shall  be  most  effectively  placed,  (both  that  they  themselves  shall 
appear  to  the  best  advantage,  and  also  that  each  tree,  and  group 
of  plants  and  shrubs  shall  contribute  its  full  proportion  to  the 
effective  laying  out  of  the  property  as  a  whole),  in  order  to  attain 
that  end,  it  is  necessary  to  take  advantage  of  every  point  in  the 
natural  formation  of  the  location. 

As  has  just  been  stated,  the  character  of  the  planting  on  a 
hillside  site  is  very  different  from  that  on  a  site  located  in  a  shel- 
tered valley.  On  a  hillside  site  the  ground  is  seldom  of  an  even 
nature,  there  frequently  being  projecting  points  of  land  or  rocky 
outcroppings  showing  through  the  surface.  These  projecting 
points  should  be  ornamented  with  hardy,  strong-growing  trees 

[12] 


Planning     the      Grounds 


such  as  the  Pine,  Eucalyptus,  Acacia,  Cypress,  Redberry  and 
others  of  this  class.  No  shrub,  either  exotic  or  indigenous,  is  so 
well  adapted  to  the  planting  of  a  rocky  ridge  or  in  the  foreground 
of  hillside  groups  as  our  native  Holly  (Heteromeles  arbutifolia). 
Another  native  which  groups  well  in  .any  such  situation  is  our 
evergreen  shrub  Oak.  Like  the  Redberry,  its  leaf  has  a  good 
color,  it  has  a  semi-drooping  habit  of  growth,  it  is  evergreen  and 
grows  on  dry  banks  on  any  exposure  either  North,  South,  East 
or  West,  excepting  within  a  mile  from  the  ocean,  where,  if  fac- 
ing the  West  and  much  exposed,  it  is  apt  to  get  wind-blown  and 
generally  does  not  thrive  so  well. 

Where  a  shrubbery  effect  is  desired  and  the  soil  is  rich,  some 
other  shrub  must  be  substituted,  as  the  effect  of  a  good  soil  will 
be  to  force  the  Oak  into  tree  shape  and  to  grow  too  large  for  a 
shrub  effect,  but  where  the  soil  is  of  a  loose,  rocky  nature,  and 
not  too  rich,  the  evergreen  native  shrub  Oak  gives  one  of  the  best 
effects  possible  without  cultivation  or  irrigation. 

These  hardier  trees  are  recommended  also  for  planting  on  the 
outer  lines  of  grounds  of  the  extent  of  about  one  acre  or  over,  or 
on  those  portions  of  a  Pleasure-Garden  which  are  much  exposed 
or  beyond  the  reach  of  the  hose,  and,  as  already  suggested,  they 
can  be  planted  at  any  parts  where  the  soil  is  poor. 

For  the  planting  of  groups  or  clumps  to  be  located  immedi- 
ately about  the  lawns  or  near  hydrants  where  they  can  be 
watered,  a  much  larger  variety  of  trees  and  shrubs  may  be 
drawn  from,  the  Bamboo,  the  Birch,  the  Maple,  the  Hawthorn, 
the  Lilac,  the  Laurel  and  many  others  giving  character  and  com- 
pleteness to  the  composition. 

Where  the  grounds  are  as  large  as  from  three  to  four  acres, 
separate  groups  of  each  genus  should  be  planted.  For  instance, 
exceedingly  effective  groups  can  be  formed  by  planting  a  mass 
consisting  of  three  or  four  varieties  of  Pines;  another  of  Euca- 
lyptus in  variety ;  another  of  Spruce  and  Fir ;  another  of  a  vari- 
ety of  evergreen  Oaks;  another  of  our  native  Laurel;  another 

[13] 


Gardening    in    California 


of  Redwood;  another  of  Cedar,  and  so  on;  and  again,  these 
may  be  planted  so  as  to  form  combinations.  Such  trees  as  the 
Maple  and  Sycamore,  or  Gedar  (Thuya)  and  Coast  Redwood 
combine  beautifully,  but  it  must  be  particularly  kept  in  view 
that  grouping  round-headed  trees  with  those  which  are  of 
pyramidal  habit  is  a  mistake.  Round-headed  trees  must  be 
grouped  with  those  of  the  same  habit,  and  pyramidal  trees  with 
those  of  similar  form,  the  effect  always  being  pleasing,  but  mix- 
ing those  two  shapes  in  the  same  group  mars  the  effect  and  ruins 
the  composition. 

Evergreens  and  deciduous  trees  harmonize  very  well  in  a 
group,  provided  they  are  of  the  same  shape  and  outline.  For 
instance,  a  group  formed  by  combining  the  Bamboo  with  the 
Birch  is  most  pleasing,  both  of  these  being  of  the  same  graceful 
semi-pendulous  habit. 

It  should,  then,  be  remembered,  in  massing  groups  of  trees 
for  planting,  that  form  and  habit  should  be  studied  much  more 
closely  than  any  other  quality. 

In  planning  the  groups  it  may  be  found  desirable  and  effec- 
tive to  form  some  entirely  of  evergreens,  others  entirely  of  de- 
ciduous trees  and  shrubs,  and  others  of  a  mixture  of  both,  a  very 
good  combination  being  a  group  of  our  native  Laurel  and  the 
European  Linden,  because  both  are  of  the  same  graceful  habit 
of  growth. 

The  same  rule  applies  to  the  planting  of  shrubbery  masses; 
the  stiff  and  the  formal  should  never  be  associated  with  the 
rounded,  free-spreading  kinds, — that  is,  the  kinds  whose  limbs 
spread  wide  and  rest  gracefully  on  the  surface  of  the  lawn. 

In  the  disposition  of  a  number  of  sorts  of  trees  and  shrubs 
in  the  landscape,  the  same  principle  must  be  followed  in  produc- 
ing variety  and  harmony.  If  they  are  mixed  together  in  a 
haphazard  way,  the  results  will  very  rarely  be  pleasing,  but, 
at  the  same  time,  monotony  must  be  guarded  against.  For 
example,  groups  of  Oaks  should  not  be  followed  by  groups  of 

[14] 


OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY 

OF 

N     '/U.' FOR  MA 


Planning      the      Ground 


headed  trees,  but  rather  by  a  mass  formed  of  such  trees  as  the 
Californian  Laurel,  while  next  to  the  Laurel  might  come  the 
Poplar  or  some  other  tree  of  similar  column-shaped  head  and 
symmetry.  Then  again,  when  groups  meet,  they  might  some- 
times be  blended  together.  For  example,  a  group  of  Oaks, 
adjoining  a  group  of  Californian  Laurels,  might  be  blended  into 
the  Laurel  group,  by  the  Oaks  being  planted  so  as  to  overlap  the 
Laurels  and  the  Laurels  the  Oaks,  as  is  to  be  found  in  natural 
groups. 

The  same  rule  applies  to  shrubs  and  even  to  flowers  at  the 
extreme  points  of  the  groups. 

When  a  group  of  Pines  adjoins  a  group  of  Live  Oaks,  it  is 
always,  desirable  to  blend  the  two  at  the  junction  of  the  one 
with  the  other,  care  being  taken  to  avoid  regular  progression  and 
everything  like  formality,  and  it  being  borne  in  mind  that 
grounds  laid  out  according  to  simple  plans  are  generally  much 
more  pleasing  than  those  laid  out  on  overpretentious  lines. 

After  the  walks  and  drives  are  laid  out  (this  subject  being 
fully  treated  in  chapter  4)  the  next  important  work  should  be 
the  mapping  of  the  water-pipe  system. 

For  a  garden  of  about  four  acres  in  extent,  a  two-inch  main 
will  be  necessary.  This  main  should  be  laid  along  the  middle 
of  the  ground  with  one  and  one-half  inch  branches  laid  at  right 
angles  from  the  main,  about  one  hundred  feet  apart  from  each 
other,  (the  first  branch  from  the  main  to  be  laid  fifty  feet  from 
the  fence  line),  and  with  stand-pipes  and  connections  to  fit  the 
hydrants  also  one  hundred  feet  apart,  so  that  any  part  of  the 
garden  may  be  reached  with  a  single  fifty-foot  length  of  hose. 

How  often  do  we  see  both  amateur  and  professional  gar- 
deners struggling  to  reach  some  favorite  which  unfortunately 
has  been  planted  just  out  of  reach  of  the  last  length  of  hose! 
It  should  always  be  borne  in  mind  that  water-pipe,  even  of  the 
best  quality,  is  much  cheaper  than  hose;  also  that  iron  pipe  lasts 
in  the  ground  at  least  twenty  years,  whereas  the  life  of  the 

[17] 


Gardening    in    California 


average  rubber  hose  never  exceeds  two  years,  and  very  often  is 
not  more  than  one  year. 

Where  a  good  pressure  may  be  had  from  public  water-works 
and  when  the  supply  is  steady  and  reliable,  it  may  not  be  neces- 
sary to  construct  a  water-tank,  but,  where  pumping  has  to  be 
resorted  to,  or  the  public  supply  is  liable  to  be  shut  off  at  times, 
it  is  well  to  have  a  water-tank  erected.  The  tank  should  be  of 
generous  dimensions,  and  should  be  placed  at  least  sixty  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  grounds  to  be  irrigated.  Of  course,  a  lower 
tower  would  give  some  pressure,  but  the  higher  the  source  of 
the  water  supply  and  the  nearer  it  is  placed  to  the  point  of  dis- 
tribution the  better  the  results  and  the  shorter  the  time  required 
to  water  or  sprinkle  the  grounds,  so,  on  the  score  of  economy  as 
well  as  efficiency,  the  tank  should  be  placed  at  least  sixty  feet  in 
height. 

It  has  been  deemed  advisable  to  introduce  a  few  planting 
plans,  suitable  for  lots  and  gardens  of  various  sizes,  not  neces- 
sarily to  be  rigidly  adhered  to  in  every  particular,  but  to  be  used 
as  suggestions. 

Many  additional  species,  or  their  varieties,  may  be  substi- 
tuted for  or  added  to  the  suggestions,  care  being  taken  however 
that  the  principal  plantings  shall  be  of  such  species  as  are  known 
to  succeed  and  do  well  in  the  locality.  It  should  be  borne  in 
mind  that  many  species  flourish  in  warm  sunny  portions  of  the 
State  while  others  give  best  results  in  the  cool  atmosphere  of 
the  coast  regions ;  for  instance,  as  stated  in  the  text,  the  Oleander 
is  not  recommended  for  the  cool  climate  of  San  Francisco  while 
the  Fuchsia  attains  in  that  vicinity  its  most  perfect  growth. 


18 


Planting   Plans 


ardening    in 


California 


15                            » 

16 

& 

L8 

LAWM 

7 

9 

0 

6 
fi 

1© 


PLANTING  LIST 
For  Lot  25'  x  120'. 

Group  No. 

1.  Acacia   Melanoxylon. 

2.  Veronica  decussata. 

3.  Choisya  ternata. 

4.  Roses. 

5.  Buxus  sempervirens. 

6.  Viburnum  tinus. 

7.  Clianthus  puniceus. 

8.  Lilac. 

9.  Climbing  Rose! 

10.  Escallonia. 

11.  Diervillea. 

12.  Coprosma  Baueriana  and  Spanish  Broom. 

13.  Cupressus  Lawsoniana.  ^ 

14.  Cratsegus  oxyacantha  rubra. 

15.  Deutzia. 

1 6.  Myrtle. 

17.  Euonymus. 

1 8.  Pittosporum. 

19.  Ligustrum  Japonicum. 

20.  Erica  Mediterrahea. 

21.  Climbing  Roses. 


2O 


Planting    List 


PLANTING  LIST 
For  Lot  40'  x  120'. 

Group  No. 

1.  Sugar  Maple  or  Sterculia. 

2.  Phoenix  reclinata  or  Brahea  sonorse. 

3.  Myrtle. 

4.  Pittosporum  tobira.  ^ 

5.  Euonymus  Japonica  aurea. 

6.  Escallonia  rubra. 

7.  Choisya  ternata. 

8.  Veronica  decussata. 

9.  Climbing  Roses  and  Geraniums. 

10.  Magnolia  grandiflora  and  Perennial 

Phlox. 

11.  Coprosma  Baueriana  and  Violets. 

12.  Cestrum  auranticum. 
*3-     "Cerassus  lauro-cerassus. 

14.  Roses. 

15.  Arbutus  unedo. 

1 6.  Lilac. 

17.  Acacia  mollissima. 

1 8.  Leptospermum  lavaegatum. 

19.  Philadelphus. 

20.  Acacia  dealbata. 

21.  Spiraea  bridal  wreath. 

22.  Aucuba  Japonica. 

23.  Roses. 

24.  Calistemon. 

25.  Spartium  junceum. 

26.  Fuchsia. 

27.  *   Plumbago. 
28."   Flower  Border. 


[21    I 


Gardening    in    California 


PLANTING  LIST 
For  Lot  50'  x  150'. 

Group  No. 

1.  Phoenix  Canariensis. 

2.  Border  of  Violets  or   Ivy  or 

Creeping  Juniper. 

3.  Climbing  Roses,  Honeysuckle, 

Clematis,  etc. 

4.  Choisya  ternata. 

5.  Veronica  decussata. 

6.  Aralia  Seiboldii. 

7.  Bougainvillaea. 

8.  Walk. 

9.  Aucuba. 

10.  Viburnum  tinus  grandiflora. 

11.  Pittosporum. 

12.  Grevillea  robusta. 

13.  Euonymus     and     Pyrus     Ja- 

ponica. 

14.  Acacia  Cultriformis  and  Lilac. 

15.  Acacia  mollissima. 

16.  Escallonia    rosea    and    Phila- 

delphus. 

17.  Acacia  dealbata  and  Spiraea. 

1 8.  Thuya  gigantea. 

19.  Leptospermum  lavaegatum  and 

Diervillea. 

20.  Bamboo. 

21.  Coprosma  Baueriana. 

22.  Boxwood. 

23.  Aucuba  Japonica. 


50' x  150' 


[22] 


Planting    List 


Group  No. 


75' x  150' 


PLANTING  LIST 
For  Lot  75'  x  150'. 

Group  No. 

1.  Huntingdon   Elm. 

2.  Retinospora   obtusa. 


33- 
34- 

35- 

36. 
37- 


Pittosporum   eugenoides. 

Escallonia  rosea. 

Choisya  ternata. 

Euonymus  Japonica  aurea. 

Coprosma   Baueriana. 

Bamboo. 

Buxus  sempervirens. 

Wistaria. 

Aucuba  sempervirens. 

Roses. 

Viburnum  tinus. 

Roses. 

Acacia  armata. 

Grevillea  robusta. 

Cerassus  lauro-cerassus. 

Cerassus  lauro-cerassus. 

Lilac. 

Lawson  Cypress. 

Philadelphus. 

Poplar. 

Acacia  latifolia. 

Hawthorn  and  Diervillea. 

Birch  and  Leptospermum. 

Linden     and    Acacia     fra- 

grans. 

Corynocarpus. 
Ligustrum  and  Broom. 
Cestrum. 
Portugal  Laurel. 
Roses  and  Eugenia  latifolia. 
Rhododendron      Catawbi- 

ense. 

Maytenus  boaria. 

Callistemon. 

Magnolia    grandiflora    and 

Hydrangea. 
Photinia  arbutifolia. 
Daphne  and  Spiraea. 


[23 


Gardening    in    Californi 


PLANTING  LIST 

For  Lot  100'  x  180'. 
Group  No. 

1.  Sugar  Maple,  Camphor  or  red  Hawthorn. 

2.  Magnolia  grandiflora  and  Aucuba  Japonica. 

3.  Juniperus  prostrata. 

4.  Juniperus  prostrata. 

5.  Three  plants  of  Retinospora  in  each  bed,  carpeted  with  flowers. 

6.  Pittosporum  eugenoides. 

7.  Specimen  plants  of  Boxwood  or  Laurus  nobilis. 

8.  Heliotrope,  Violets,  Pansies,  etc. 

9.  Standard  Roses. 

10.  Clematis,  Bignonia,  Fuchsia,  etc. 

11.  Fence  covered  with  Honeysuckle,  Climbing  Roses,  etc. 

12.  Mandevillea  suaveolens,  Solanum  Wendlandii,  etc. 

13.  Climbing  Roses,  Passion  Vine,  etc. 

14.  Monterey  Cypress. 

15.  Pepper,  Spiraea  Watersii  and  Romneyii  Coulterii. 

1 6.  Acacia  mollissima  and  Diervillea. 

17.  Libocedrus  decurrens  and  Spartium  juncem. 

1 8.  Wistaria  and  Bignonia. 

19.  Wistaria  and  Bignonia  Tweediana. 

20.  Pittosporum  tobira  and  Streptosolen. 

21.  Ligustrum  Japonicum  and  Pimelia  rosea. 

22.  Escallonia  rosea,  Lilac  and  Prunus  mume. 

23.  Portugal  Laurel  and  Philadelphia. 

24.  Hedge  of  Pittosporum  nigrum. 

25.  Euonymus  Japonica  aurea. 

26.  Carnations,  Violets,  etc. 

27.  Climbing  Roses. 

28.  Mandevillea  suaveolens,  Phlox,  etc. 

29.  Rhododendron  Catawbiensis. 

30.  Climbing  Roses,  Delphinum,  etc. 

31.  Arbutus  unedo  and  Ilex  aquifolia. 

32.  Coprosma  Baueriana. 


[24] 


1 


*          #          * 

i  U^fc             ^. 

I    'TV                                          ^P^-                                      3'Piv    ' 

100'  x  1 80' 


Gardening    in    Californi 


PLANTING  LIST 

For  Lot  150'  x  200': 
Group  No. 

1.  Specimen  plants  of  Boxwood. 

2.  Retinospora  obtusa. 

3.  Choisya  ternata  and  Diosma  ericoides. 

4.  Veronica  decussata  and  Pimelia  rosea. 

5.  Coprosma  Baueriana  and  Aucuba  Japonica. 

6.  Camphor  and  Abelia. 

7.  Rhododendron  or  Nerium  splendens. 

8.  Wistaria,  shading  pergola. 

9.  Bamboo. 

10.  Portugal  Laurel  and  Acacia  mollissima. 

11.  Specimen  plants  of  Laurus  tinus  or  Laurus  nobilis. 

12.  Acacia  latifolia  and  Philadelphus  coronaria. 

13.  Lilac  and  Myrtle. 

14.  Albizzia  julibrissin  and  Spartium  junceum. 

15.  Pittosporum  eugenoides. 

1 6.  Hawthorn  and  Spiraea  bridal  wreath. 

17.  Hedge  of  Ligustrum  Japonicum. 

1 8.  Huntingdon  Elm  or  Acacia  Melanoxylon. 

19.  Roses  and  other  flowering  plants. 

20.  Roses,  Carnations,  etc. 

21.  Fuchsias,  Hydrangeas,  etc. 

22.  Fruit  Trees. 

23.  Pepper. 

24.  Monterey  Cypress. 

25.  Geraniums. 

26.  Lawn. 


26 


I 50' X  200' 


Gardening    in    Californi 


PLANTING  LIST 

For  Lot  200'  x  350'. 
Group  No. 

1.  Phoenix  Canariensis  and  Honeysuckle. 

2.  Bamboo. 

3.  Choisya  ternata  and  Daphne. 

4.  Choisya  ternata  and  Duranta  plumiera. 

5.  Bamboo. 

6.  Coprosma  Baueriana. 

7.  Pittosporum  eugenoides  and  Sweet  Briar. 

8.  Maytenus  boaria  and  Diosma  alba. 

9.  Maytenus  Chilense  and  Sollya  Drumondii. 
10.  Clematis  Jackmanii  and  Ivy  Geranium, 
n.  Clematis  Jackmanii  and  Ivy  Geranium. 

12.  Veronica  decussata  and  Viola  cornuta. 

13.  Mandevillea  suaveolens  and  Fuchsia. 

14.  Wistaria  and  red  Geranium. 

15.  Coronilla  glauca  and  Cytissus  racemosa. 

16.  Myrtle  and  Carnations. 

17.  Juniperus  Chinensis  and  Juniperus  prostrata. 

1 8.  Rhododendron. 

19.  Camellia  and  Gardenia  Fortuneii. 

20.  Ampelopsis  Veitchii  and  flowering  plants. 

21.  Retinospora  obtusa  and  Pimelia  rosea. 

22.  Roses. 

23.  Pittosporum  eugenoides  and  Corynocarpus  lavsegatus. 

24.  Escallonia  Montevidiensis  and  Honeysuckle. 

25.  Bamboo. 

26.  Arbutus  unedo  and  Boxwood. 

27.  Heteromeles  serratifolia. 

28.  Camphor  and  Jasminum  nudiflorum. 

29.  Hymenosporum  flavum  and  Roses. 

30.  Ligustrum  Japonicum  and  Ligustrum  ibota. 

31.  Sugar  Maple  and  Philadelphus. 

32.  Acacia  mollissima  and  Prunus  mume. 

33.  Portugal  Laurel  and  Japanese  Weeping  Cherry. 

34.  Tilia  Europea  and  Viburnum  opulus. 

35.  Pepper  Trees  and  Leptospermum  lavaegatum. 

36.  Monterey  Cypress  and  Spartium  juncem. 

[28! 


200' X  350' 


Gardening    in    California 


Group  No.  For  Lot  200'  x  350'—  Continued. 

37.  Monterey  Pine  and  Cistus  rosea. 

38.  Liquidambar  and  Lilac. 

39.  Liriodendron  tulipifera  and  Lilac. 

40.  Hedge  of  Blackberries. 

41.  Salisburia  adiantifolia  and  Tamarix. 

42.  Lawson  Cypress  and  Diervillea. 

43.  Quercus  macrophylla  and  Laburnum. 

44.  Acacia  latifolia. 

45.  Crataegus  oxyacantha  and  Crataegus  pyracantha. 

46.  Grevillea  robusta  and  Erythrina  crista  galli. 

47.  Thuya  gigantea  and  Rhododendron  Catawbiense. 

48.  Phillyrea  myrtifolia  and  perennial  Phlox. 

49.  Cedrus  deodara  and  Abelia  rupestris. 

50.  Abies  Lowiana  and  Clianthus  puniceus. 

51.  Prunus  Caroliniensis  and  Albizzia  julibrissin. 

52.  Cedrus  Libanii  and  Streptosolen  Jamesonii. 

53.  Abies  Nordmanniana  and  Swainsonia  alba. 

54.  Bamboo  and  Pampas  Grass. 

55.  Hedge  of  Acacia  longifolia. 

56.  Ulmus  Montana. 

57.  Juniperus  prostrata. 

58.  Cotoneaster. 

59.  Juniperus  prostrata. 

60.  Cotoneaster. 

61.  Juniperus  prostrata. 

62.  Ulmus  Montana. 

63.  Orchard. 

PLANTING  LIST 

For  Lot  300'  x  400'. 
Group  No. 

1.  Specimen  plants  of  Boxwood  or  Nerium  splendens. 

2.  Escallonia  rosea,  grown  thickly  so  as  to  form  a  dense  screen  ten 

feet  in  height. 

3.  Pittosporum  eugenoides. 

4.  Arbutus  unedo. 

5.  Portugal  Laurel. 

6.  Corynocarpus  and  Hymenosporum  flavum. 

7.  Leptospermum  lavaegatum. 

[30] 


300 x  400 


Gardening    in    Californi 


a 


8.  Acacia  latifolia. 

9.  Laurus  tinus  grandiflora. 

10.  Cerassus  lauro-cerassus. 

1 1 .  Bamboo. 

12.  Lilac,  Leptospermum  lavaegatum  and  Prunus  mume. 

13.  Acacia  mollissima. 

14.  Lilac  and  Callistemon. 

15.  Ligustrum  ovatum,  Escallonia  rosea  and  Laurus  tinus. 

16.  Flower-bed. 

17.  Grevillea  robusta  and  Berberis  Darwinii. 

1 8.  Umbelularia  and  Romneya  Coulterii. 

19.  Schinus  molle. 

20.  Coprosma  Baueriana. 

21.  Brahea  Sonorsea. 

22.  Pittosporum  tobira.  27. 

23.  Choisya  ternata  and  Diosma  alba.       28. 

24.  Veronica  decussata.  29. 

25.  Ulmus  Montana  or  Tilia  Europea. 

26.  Escallonia  Montevidiensis.  30. 


Magnolia  grandiflora. 
Maytenus  boaria. 
Hedge  of  Pittosporum 

eugenoides. 
Rhododendron  hybrida. 


PLANTING  LIST 
For  Ten  Acre  Tract. 


Group  No. 


1.  Hawthorn,    Lilac    and    Eu- 

genia latifolia. 

2.  Cypress. 

3.  Rock-work  with  Ferns. 

4.  Rock-work  with  Ferns. 

5.  Acer  Schwedleri. 

6.  Acer  Schwedleri 

7.  Rhododendrons. 

8.  Site  for  large  Palm. 

9.  Rhododendron  and  Azalea. 

10.  Rhododendron     catawbiense, 

Camellia  and  Aucuba  Ja- 
ponica. 

11.  Maples. 

12.  Lindens. 

13.  Eucalyptus  fici folia  and  Ne- 

[32 


Group  No. 

rium  splendens. 

14.  Escallonia   and   Buxus   sem- 

pervirens. 

15.  Escallonia. 

1 6.  Oranges. 

17.  Lemons. 

18.  Olives. 

19.  Redwoods,  Philadelphus  and 

Cydonia  Japonica. 

20.  Redwoods    and    Viburnums 

(Snowball). 

21.  Oranges. 

22.  Border  for  Vegetables. 

23.  Figs. 

24.  Peaches. 

25.  Plums. 

] 


Planting    List 


For  Ten  Acre  Tract — Continued. 


Group  No. 

26.  Apricots. 

27.  Apricots. 

28.  Peaches. 

29.  Plums. 

30.  Cherries. 

31.  Cherries. 

32.  Pears. 

33.  Apples. 

34.  Nectarines. 

35.  Pears. 

36.  Apples. 

37.  Pears. 

38.  Apricots. 

39.  Acacia  latifolia. 

40.  Acer  campestris  and  Acacia 

floribunda. 

41.  Grevillea  robusta. 

42.  Maples. 

43.  Lindens     and     Coprosma 

Baueriana. 

44.  Coprosma  Baueriana. 

45.  Corynocarpus  lavaegatus. 

46.  Araucaria      imbricata      and 

Junipers. 

47.  Cryptomeria     Japonica     and 

Cryptomeria  elegans. 

48.  Sequoia    gigantea    and    Ha- 

brothamnus. 

49.  Pinus,    Liquidambar,    Erica 

persoluta  alba  and  Abelia 
rupestris. 

50.  Pinus,    Liriodendron    tulipi- 

fera,    Erica    and    Honey- 
suckle. 

51.  Peppers. 

52.  Camphor  and  Choysiaternata. 

53.  Phcenix  Canariensis. 

54.  Hymenosporum   flavum   and 

Holly.  f 


Group  No. 

55.  Acacia      mollissima,      Pitto- 

sporum     eugenoides     and 
Romneya  Coulterii. 

56.  Robinia    bessoniana,    Myrtle 

and  Laurustinus. 

57.  Abies   and   Thuyopsis   dolo- 

brata. 

58.  Prunus  pissardii  and  Prunus 

mume. 

59.  Araucaria   excelsa   and   Re- 

tinospora  obtusa. 

60.  Picea  pungens. 

61.  Escallonia  rubra. 

62.  Albizzia     Julibrissin     and 

Quercus  suber. 

63.  Libocedrus  decurrens,  Acacia 

armata  and  Azara  macro- 
phylla. 

64.  Taxus  baccata  aurea. 

65.  Weeping  Japanese  Cherries. 

66.  Bamboos. 

67.  Weeping  Birch  and  Spiraea. 

68.  Redwoods. 

69.  Callistemons. 

70.  Bamboos. 

71.  Salisburia    adiantifolia    and 

Pittosporum  eugenoides. 

72.  Pittosporum  eugenoides  and 

Diervillia  rosea. 

73.  Magnolia    and    Pittosporum 

undulatum. 

74.  Ligustrum  ibota,  Euonumus 

aurea  and  Horse  Chestnut. 

75.  Cedrus  Deodara,  Cedrus  At- 

lantica  and  Veronica. 

76.  Cedrus  Deodara,  Cedrus  At- 

lantica  and  Veronica. 

33] 


Gardening    in    California 


For  Ten  Acre  Tract — Continued. 
Group  No.  Group  No. 

77.  Lawson    Cypress,    Veronica  80.     Populus      pyramidalis      and 

decussata     and     Polygala  Populus  Carolinensis. 

Delmaisiana.  81.     Espalier  for  fruit. 

78.  Site  for  large  Palm.  82.     Leptospermum. 

79.  Cypress  hedge.  83.     Bamboo  hedge. 

A.  A  summer  house  of  stone  or  wood,  rustic  in  design. 

B.  Six-foot  walk. 

C.  Six-foot  walk  through  Rhododendrons. 

D.  Eight-foot  border  in  grass. 

E.  Niche  for  statuary  or  sun  dial. 

F.  Low  formal  basin. 

G.  Six-foot  walk. 

H.     Formal  flower-beds. 

I.     Space  for  house-site,  one  hundred  and  twenty  by  one  hundred  feet. 
J.     Proposed  site  for  garage  or  stable. 
K.     Ten-foot  walk  leading  from  house  to  vegetable  garden,  covered 

by  an  arbor  and  shaded  by  grape  vines  and  Wistaria. 
L.     Range  of  glass  houses. 

M.     Eighteen-inch  walk  between  the  vegetable  beds. 
N.     Vegetable  beds. 

O.     Three-foot  walk  through  vegetable  garden. 
P.     Squares  for  vegetables. 
Q.     One  of  the  four  squares  surrounded  by  fruit  trees,  the  inside  of 

each  to  be  treated  as  O  and  P.    Outside  of  the  line  of  fruit  trees, 

cut  flowers  for  the  house  may  be  grown. 
R.     An  espalier  for  trained  fruit  trees,  showing  an  eighteen  inch  walk, 

two  feet  from  the  espalier. 
S.     Eighteen-inch  alleyway  for  the  use  of  the  gardener  in  working  on 

the  espalier. 
T.     Twenty-five  foot  border  surrounding  the  vegetable  garden,  to  be 

used  for  small  vegetables. 
U.     Fifteen-foot  road. 
V.     Hexagonal  summer  house  of  rustic  design,  of  either  stone  or 

wood  and  encircled  by  a  small  walk. 
W.     Four-foot  walk,  girdling  lake. 
X.     Small  lake  from  two  to  three  feet  in  depth. 
Y.     A  formal  gateway. 
NOTE. — All  walks   in  the  vegetable  garden  are  to  be  edged  with 

dwarf  box. 


Preparation    of    the    Ground 


CHAPTER  III. 

PREPARATION     OF     THE     GROUND. 

AFTER  the  house-site  has  been  selected  and  the  outlines 
of  the  drive  and  walks  have  been  staked,  the  next  opera- 
tion should  be  grading  and  preparing  the  ground  for 
planting.  When  grading  or  levelling,  it  is  necessary  to  remember 
to  always  keep  the  good  or  surface  soil  at  the  top  and  not  to  bury 
it  as  is  too  often  done  by  contractors. 

When  the  ground  is  graded  and  shaped  to  the  lines  as 
planned,  it  should  then  be  plowed  or  trenched.  Where  the 
grounds  are  large,  use  the  ordinary  plow  followed  by  the  subsoil- 
plow;  stir  the  subsoil,  if  possible,  twenty- four  inches  deep. 
After  plowing,  follow  with  a  heavy  harrow,  selecting  dry 
weather  and  only  when  the  soil  is  reasonably  dry  and  not  wet 
enough  to  stick  to  the  shoes  or  clog  the  harrow-teeth ;  then  cross- 
plow  and  reharrow. 

Should  the  ground  be  too  small  for  plowing,  trenching  with 
the  spade  must  be  resorted  to ;  and  here  again  it  is  important  to 
bear  in  mind  to  keep  the  top  soil  for  the  upper  layer. 

Trenching  should  be  done  by  first  removing,  at  one  end  of  the 
ground,  the  top  soil,  to  the  depth  of  one  foot,  from  a  strip  (three 
feet  wide)  across  the  entire  width  of  the  ground,  and  wheeling 
that  top  soil  to  the  opposite  end  of  the  ground  which  is  being 
trenched.  Then,  with  a  heavy  pick,  stir  the  subsoil  to  an  addi- 
tional foot  in  depth,  leaving  the  loosened  subsoil  in  its  original 
place.  On  top  of  the  loosened  subsoil  spread  a  layer  of  manure 
about  four  inches  deep.  Measure  from  the  line  of  the  first  trench, 
with  a  yardstick,  three  feet  at  each  end  of  the  trench,  (that  is,  at 
each  side  of  the  ground),  and  place  stakes,  to  which  stakes  attach 

[37] 


Gardening    in    California 


a  line,  which  line  will  thus  run  across  the  ground  at  a  distance  of 
three  feet  from  the  line  of  the  first  trench.  Remove  the  top  soil 
to  the  depth  of  one  foot  from  this  strip,  and  place  that  top  soil  to 
the  depth  of  one  foot  above  the  manure  in  Trench  No.  i .  Stir  sub- 
soil of  Trench  No.  2,  and,  on  top  of  that,  place  a  layer  of  manure, 
as  instructed  for  Trench  No.  i.  Then  establish  the  line  for 
Trench  No.  3,  in  the  same  manner  as  for  Trench  No.  2,  with  the 
top  soil  of  which  (Trench  No.  3)  Trench  No.  2  will  be  com- 
pleted, and  so  on  trench  after  trench  all  over  the  ground,  the  sur- 
face soil  taken  from  the  first  opening,  which  had  been  wheeled  to 
the  far  end  of  the  ground,  being  found  sufficient  in  quantity  for 
filling  on  top  of  the  manure  of  the  last  trench,  thus  leaving  the 
ground  level  or  even,  and  in  the  same  shape  as  it  was  before  the 
work  of  trenching  began. 

Should  the  natural  soil  be  composed  of  stiff  clay,  a  layer  of 
light  sandy  soil  or  pure  sand,  or  a  heavy  application  of  half- 
decomposed  stable-manure  mixed  freely  with  the  soil,  or,  more 
especially,  a  compost  made  of  all  three  will  greatly  improve  it. 

Where  the  soil  is  of  an  adhesive  nature,  or  the  subsoil  within 
three  feet  of  the  surface  is  of  stiff  clay,  drainage  should  be 
resorted  to,  as,  no  matter  how  well  the  soil  may  be  cultivated 
or  how  heavily  it  may  be  manured,  good  results  will  be  impos- 
sible if  the  soil  is  water-logged.  Drains  should  be  put  in  about 
fifteen  feet  apart  and  three  feet  deep  with  a  fall  of  not  less  than 
six  inches  in  one  hundred  feet.  Of  course  where  water  passes 
freely  through  the  soil  and  does  not  lie  stagnant  in  the  subsoil, 
the  putting  in  of  drains  will  be  unnecessary.  This  may  be  readily 
found  out  by  digging  a  hole  with  the  spade  after  heavy  rains  and 
observing  whether  the  hole  holds  water  any  length  of  time. 
Should  the  water  percolate  freely  through  the  soil,  no  draining 
will  be  required,  but  should  the  water  remain  in  the  hole  for 
weeks,  it  would  be  well  to  have  the  ground  thoroughly  drained 
as  directed.  Tile  draining  is  much  the  best  and  most  lasting 
method,  but,  when  tiles  cannot  be  had,  a  foot  of  rough  rock  placed 

[38] 


Preparation     of    the    Ground 


in  the  bottom  of  the  ditch  (putting  the  larger  stones  in  the  bot- 
tom and  finishing  with  the  smaller  ones,  covering  the  whole  with 
sods  or  long  straw  to  keep  the  soil  from  choking  the  crevices)  will 
answer  the  purpose  very  well  although  not  so  lasting  as  the  tile. 

It  may  be  stated  that  where  there  is  too  much  water  lying 
stagnant  in  the  soil,  few  plants  will  thrive,  for,  as  soon  as  the 
roots  of  the  trees  or  other  plants  reach  the  stagnant  saturated 
soil,  they  invariably  begin  to  show  it  by  their  upper  twigs  or 
leaves  dying  off  and  by  their  eventually  dying  altogether. 

Drain  ditches  should  be  dug  just  wide  enough  for  a  man  to 
work  them  out.  If  the  top  soil  is  loose,  it  should  be  given  enough 
slope  to  prevent  the  soil  from  crumbling  into  the  drain  when  the 
tile  is  being  laid.  If  the  soil  is  heavy  and  solid,  twenty-four 
inches  wide  at  the  surface  of  the  ground  will  be  ample  width, 
tapering  to  the  size  of  the  tile  at  the  bottom,  so  that  the  pipes 
may  bed  in  the  solid  ground  accurately. 

Pipe  tiles  are  made  of  round  shape  and  should  be  furnished 
with  collars  as  these  tend  to  keep  the  tiles  from  shifting,  and  also 
prevent,  to  a  large  extent,  roots  from  entering  and  interrupting 
the  flow  of  water.  After  laying  them,  cover  the  tiles  with  fine 
crushed  rock  or  gravel  to  keep  the  soil  from  entering  the  drains. 

Where  the  ground  is  undulating  in  its  character,  a  main 
drain  should  be  laid  along  the  lowest  portion  of  the  ground,  and 
lateral  drains  laid  obliquely  according  to  the  shape  of  the  ground, 
each  entering  the  main  drain  by  a  Y  or  T  shaped  fitting,  care 
being  taken  that  each  drain  has  a  fall  of  at  least  six  inches  in  one 
hundred  feet  as  formerly  recommended. 

In  digging  the  ditches  for  the  drains,  place  the  top  soil  on 
one  side  and  the  bottom  soil  on  the  opposite  side  so  that,  when 
filling  in  the  ditches,  the  subsoil  may  be  replaced  and  the  surface 
soil  saved  for  the  top  where  it  is  most  needed. 


39 


Gardening    in    Californi 


CHAPTER  IV. 


CONSTRUCTION    OF    ROADS    AND    WALKS. 

IN  the  chapter  on  the  "Preparation  of  the  Ground"  it  was 
advised  that,  after  the  land  had  been  plowed,  the  subsoil 

plow  should  be  used,  and  the  ground  thoroughly  harrowed, 
then  cross-plowed  and  again  harrowed.  Finally  it  may  be  rolled 
with  a  two-horse  roller  so  as  to  break  up  the  lumps  of  earth  and 
leave  the  surface  reasonably  even  and  smooth.  It  has  also  been 
advised  that,  in  order  to  show  the  proposed  lines  of  the  drive- 
ways and  walks,  a  center  line  of  stakes  should  be  set  according  to 
the  adopted  plan,  and  at  the  same  time  it  was  urged  that  the  lines 
of  these  driveways  and  walks  should  be  most  carefully  studied 
from  all  points  until  it  was  felt  that  they  were  the  best  possible. 

Assuming  then  that  these  preliminary  points  have  all  been 
attended  to,  the  next  step  towards  the  construction  of  roads 
and  walks  is  to  have  two  lines  of  stakes  set  equally  distant  from 
the  center  line  showing  the  width  of  the  proposed  walk  or  drive- 
way. If  for  a  driveway,  these  stakes  should  be  set  not  less 
than  eight  feet  from  the  center  line  of  stakes,  and  thus  sixteen 
feet  apart  from  each  other,  as  a  driveway  with  a  width  of  less 
than  sixteen  feet  would  be  too  narrow  for  two  carriages  to  pass 
comfortably,  and,  besides,  would  give  the  grounds  a  pinched, 
contracted  appearance. 

If  the  stakes  are  being  set  for  a  foot-path,  they  should  be 
set  four  feet  from  the  center  stakes,  and  thus  eight  feet  apart 
from  each  other.  A  foot-path  eight  feet  wide  has  enough  width 
and  looks  well  in  the  grounds. 

[40] 


Construction   of    Roads    and    Walks 


As  formerly  suggested,  it  is  again  urged  that  all  the  good 
surface  soil  should  be  removed  from  the  proposed  road-bed, 
(whether  of  driveway,  walk,  or  any  other  contemplated  gravel 
surface),  and  spread  over  those  parts  of  the  grounds  where  the 


Walk   with  Rustic   Benches.     Background   of  Pines   and  Firs. 

natural  soil  is  poor  and  shallow,  or,  if  not  required  for  that  pur- 
pose, in  any  low  spots  which  may  need  levelling  up. 

When  this  is  done,  the  center  line,  as  well  as  the  side  lines  of 
stakes,  should  be  carefully  reset  about  every  fifteen  feet  along 


Gardening    in    California 


the  proposed  roadway.  Then  three  lines  of  levels  must  be  run 
along  the  road-bed,  one  in  the  middle  and  one  on  each  side.  The 
cuts  and  fills  must  now  be  figured  out,  and  the  grade  established, 
the  quantities  of  soil  to  be  moved  being  carefully  figured  so 
that  the  cuts  and  fills  will  balance  each  other,  always  keeping 
in  view  the  economy  of  having  the  dirt  moved  as  short  a  distance 
as  possible. 

After  this  is  all  calculated,  it  is  time  to  have  the  grade-stakes 
set,  one  at  the  base  of  each  of  the  line-stakes. 

When  setting  the  border  grade-stakes,  it  must  be 
seen  that  the  stakes,  on  opposite  sides  of  the  road  to 
be  graded,  are  set  exactly  level  with  each  other,  for  unless  the 
two  borders  of  the  roadway  or  foot-path  are  level,  not  only 
does  the  road  never  look  well,  but  it  is  not  comfortable  to  walk 
or  drive  over.  As  the  grade-stakes  will  be  set  alongside  the  line- 
stakes,  they  also  will  be  at  intervals  of  fifteen  feet  on  the  road- 
way, it  being  inadvisable  to  have  them  further  away  from  each 
other.  These  grade-stakes  should  have  sawed,  square  ends  not 
less  than  one  inch  square. 

After  the  border  grade-stakes  have  been  put  in  place,  still 
another  line  of  grade-stakes  should  be  set,  at  equal  distances 
apart,  along  the  line  of  the  road-bed,  to  guide  the  workmen  in 
the  grading  of  the  surface.  These  grade-stakes  should  be  set 
so  as  to  give  the  road-bed  a  crown  of  one  in  sixty ;  for  example, 
if  the  roadway  is  sixteen  feet  wide,  it  should  be  about  three  and 
one-half  inches  higher  in  the  middle  than  at  the  sides,  so  that 
the  rains  will  run  off  the  middle  of  the  road  toward  the  sides, 
leaving  the  center  of  the  roadway  dry.  Great  care  must  be  taken 
in  this  part  of  the  work,  as  a  road  or  walk  has  not  a  good  appear- 
ance when  there  is  too  great  a  rise  in  the  middle,  and  that  such  a 
road  or  walk  is  inconvenient  and  almost  unpleasant  for  walking 
or  driving  over,  will  be  evident.  In  staking  the  rise,  the  width 
of  the  road  must  always  be  taken  into  consideration,  otherwise 
great  mistakes  may  be  made,  and  a  walk  which  is  eight  feet 

[42] 


Construction   of   Roads   and   Walks 


wide  should  have  no  more  than  the  proportion  just  mentioned, 
which  would  be  a  rise  of  one  and  three-quarter  inches  from  the 
sides  to  the  middle. 

At  each  of  the  grade-stakes,  stout  witness-stakes  should  be 
set,  close  against  each  grade-stake,  and  projecting  about  two 
feet  higher,  so  that  in  the  event  of  the  grade-stakes  being  covered 


Formal  Gardening.   Walks  Converging  to  Fountain.  Background  Heavily  Wooded. 

over  with  dirt,  they  may  always  be  located  by  the  witness-stakes, 
and  thus  the  work  will  not  be  delayed  through  a  surveyor  having 
to  be  found  to  locate  the  lines  or  the  grades. 

For  a  driveway,  the  border  grade-stakes  should  be  set  eight 
inches  above  the  proposed  finished  gravel  surface,  thereby  giving 
room  for  five  inches  of  crushed  rock  and  one  inch  of  fine  finishing 
rock,  and  thus  leaving  the  border  of  soil  about  two  inches  above 
the  finished  rolled  surface  of  the  roadway. 

[43] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


For  a  walk,  the  same  course  in  grading  should  be  pursued, 
only  in  this  case  the  border  should  be  graded  six  inches  above  the 
grade  of  the  walk  instead  of  eight  inches  as  recommended  for  the 
driveway.  This  would  give  four  inches  for  the  depth  of  rock, 
that  depth  being  sufficient  for  a  foot-path. 

When  these  stakes  for  the  driveway  have  all  been  set,  the 
roadway  can  now  be  leveled  to  the  required  grade,  namely,  eight 
inches  below  the  top  of  the  established  border  grade-stakes,  and 
six  inches  below  the  top  of  the  road-bed  grade-stakes. 

Of  course,  some  portions  of  the  natural  grade  will  be  found 
to  be  above  and  other  portions  below  the  proposed  grade  of  the 
driveway,  but,  all  Nthis  having  been  carefully  planned  out  as 
suggested  earlier  in  this  chapter,  the  portions  of  the  roadway 
which  are  too  high  will  now  be  moved  to  fill  up  to  grade  where 
the  ground  is  too  low.  This  part  of  the  work  is  very  easily 
carried  out  when  it  has  previously  been  carefully  planned  and 
has  also  been  surveyed  and  staked,  so  that  the  workmen  will 
know  both  how  deep  to  cut  and  to  what  grade  they  are  to  fill  in. 

Various  materials  may  be  used  for  the  bottoming  of  roads 
and  walks,  such  as  stone,  brickbats,  clinkers,  or,  in  short,  any 
hard  substance  which  contains  nothing  that  would  injure  the 
roots  of  the  plants.  It  is  important  to  keep  this  in  view,  as  plants 
situated  near  the  border  of  a  road  quite  frequently  send  their 
roots  under  the  road-bed,  and,  if  material  injurious  to  plants  were 
used,  the  plants  could  not  fail  to  suffer.  Each  neighborhood 
generally  has  some  local  quarry  which  contains  rock  quite  good 
enough  for  forming  roads  or  walks  for  a  Pleasure-Garden  and 
Grounds.  Crushed  rock  of  a  brown  color  has  a  much  better 
color  effect,  as  contrasted  with  the  green  of  lawns  or  shrubbery, 
than  rock  which  is  of  a  gray  or  white  shade. 

Before  commencing  to  haul  the  rock  for  bottoming  the  road- 
bed, it  should  be  seen  that  the  road-bed  is  well  shaped,  evenly 
crowned,  and  rolled  hard,  for  unless  the  road-bed  is  properly 
shaped  before  the  rock  is  spread,  it  is  almost  impossible  to  get  a 

[44] 


Construction   of   Roads   and    Walks 


good  road,  because  the  foundation  rock  would  necessarily  be  of 
uneven  depth  and  could  not  be  evenly  rolled.  Besides,  leaving 
the  road-bed  uneven  would  be  the  cause  of  greater  expense,  as 
the  road  would,  in  that  case,  have  to  be  evened  up  by  rock,  and, 
as  the  expense  of  hauling  rock  is  very  considerable  on  account 
of  it  generally  having  to  be  brought  from  some  distance,  it  would 
be  much  more  expensive  to  fill  up  a  road-bed  in  this  way  than  by 
grading  it  with  dirt  from  the  grounds. 


Driveway  Showing  California  Laurel  (to  Left  of  Illustration},  and  Oaks; 
also  Ivy-Covered  Stump. 

The  roadbed  then  being  in  shape  and  rolled  smooth  and  hard, 
the  work  of  setting  the  bottom  rock  should  be  commenced.  Any 
kind  of  rock  will  be  found  good  enough  for  the  foundation 
layer  of  the  driveway,  provided  it  is  not  over  two  inches  or  two 
inches  and  a  half  in  diameter.  A  mixture  of  all  sizes  up  to  six 
or  eight  inches  in  diameter  does  not  make  a  good  roadway,  for  it 
cannot  be  rolled  evenly,  nor  does  it  form  a  close  finish,  as  it 

[45] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


leaves  large  open  spaces  and  hard  unevennesses.  This  bottom 
layer  should  be  evenly  spread  about  five  inches  deep.  After  the 
rolling  is  all  done,  the  surface  should  be  gone  over  with  a  shovel, 
and  any  ruts  or  chuck-holes  which  may  have  been  left  by  the 
wagon  wheels  should  be  filled  in,  the  object  being  to  leave  the 
whole  surface  as  even  as  possible.  It  should  then  be  rolled  with 
a  heavy  roller  at  least  three  times,  or  until  perfectly  smooth. 
There  must  then  be  a  layer  of  finishing  rock  or  gravel  which  will 
pass  through  a  half-inch  mesh,  spread  evenly  over  the  entire  sur- 
face about  one  inch  deep  and  rolled  into  proper  condition. 

This  finishing  coat,  as  a  rule,  is  not  put  on  until  all  the 
heavy  work  on  the  roads,  (such  as  hauling  material  for  buildings 
and  planting  the  grounds)  has  been  completed. 


Walk  Lined  with  Dracanas. 


46 


Planting    and    Transplanting 


CHAPTER  v. 

PLANTING    AND    TRANSPLANTING. 

WHEN  the  ground  has  been  got  ready  for  the  reception 
of  plants  in  accordance  with  the  suggestions  made  in 
chapter  3,  the  next  operation  is  the  planting  of  the 
trees  and  shrubs  according  to  the  plan  which  it  has  been  strongly 
advised  should  be  carefully  prepared  in  full  detail  before  the 
actual  work  of  planting  is  begun. 

It  will  be  remembered  that  if  the  place  is  large,  the  ground 
should  have  been  plowed,  and  the  subsoil  plowed,  cross-plowed 
and  harrowed,  or,  if  the  place  is  too  small  for  plowing,  that  the 
ground  should  have  been  trenched  and  then  raked  to  an  even 
surface. 

The  soil  then  having  been  thoroughly  cultivated  and  being 
in  good  condition  to  be  worked  (that  is,  neither  so  wet  that  it 
will  stick  to  the  spade  or  trowel  when  being  dug  up  or  to  the 
feet  when  treading  it,  nor,  on  the  other  hand,  too  dry  and  hard), 
mild  weather  with  a  moist  atmosphere  must  be  selected  for  the 
time  of  planting.  If  the  air  is  very  dry  and  a  harsh  wind  blow- 
ing, the  work  must  be  postponed  until  the  dry  spell  is  over,  as 
a  plant  transplanted  under  these  conditions  is  apt  to  suffer.  If, 
however,  the  transplanting  has  to  be  done  in  very  dry  weather, 
shading  must  be  resorted  to  until  the  plants  make  fresh  roots. 
This  is  more  necessary  in  the  case  of  evergreens  than  of  plants 
which  are  without  leaves,  for  the  reason  that  in  those  plants 
having  leaves,  the  surface  from  which  evaporation  takes  place 
is  much  larger  (being  at  least  six  times  greater)  than  in  similarly 
sized  plants  not  having  leaves. 

[47] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


Deciduous  trees  may  be  safely  transplanted  in  any  month 
between  the  fall  of  the  leaf  in  Autumn  and  the  swelling  of  the 
bud  in  Spring,  provided,  of  course,  the  soil  is  in  good  condition. 

Our  hardy,  native  Pine  and  Cypress  do  well  if  transplanted 
in  November,  December,  January  or  February. 

Eucalyptus,  Acacia,  and  most  of  our  New  Holland,  Aus- 
tralian and  New  Zealand  plants  do  best  if  the  planting  or  trans- 
planting is  delayed  until  Spring,  or  until  the  danger  from  heavy 
rains  and  cold  weather  has  passed. 

The  operation  of  planting  varies  according  to  the  nature  of 
the  plant  and  the  natural  disposition  of  the  soil.  Some  plants 
root  deeply,  sending  strong  taps  into  the  soil,  while  the  roots  of 
others  creep  along  close  to  the  surface.  It  must  be  carefully 
kept  in  view,  when  planting,  that  the  roots  should  be  placed  as 
nearly  as  possible  in  the  same  position  as  they  were  before  they 
were  removed  from  their  previous  location. 

In  transplanting  deciduous  trees,  they  should  be  taken  up 
very  carefully  so  as  to  preserve  as  many  of  the  roots  as  possible, 
the  constant  aim  being  to  prevent  injury  not  only  to  the  roots, 
but  also  to  the  branches  so  that  they  may  have  few  wounds  and 
bruises  to  heal  when  in  their  new  quarters. 

After  the  ground  has  been  prepared  carefully  in  accordance 
with  the  former  suggestions,  the  hole  must  be  dug  for  the  recep- 
tion of  the  roots  of  the  plant  to  be  transplanted.  The  size  of  the 
hole,  of  course,  depends  upon  the  size  of  the  plant,  but  it  is 
better  to  make  it  too  large  than  too  small.  If  it  is  made  too 
small  the  roots  are  very  liable  to  get  cramped  and  crowded  into 
wrong  positions.  The  hole  should  be  large  enough  to  allow  all 
of  the  roots  to  be  spread  out  to  their  full  length,  and  in  their 
natural  positions;  the  depth  of  the  hole  should  permit  the  neck 
of  the  plant  to  be  as  near  the  surface  of  the  ground  as  it  was 
originally. 

There  is  a  difference  of  opinion  as  to  whether  the  hole  should 
be  circular  or  square.  The  square  form  should  by  all  means  be 

[48] 


OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY 

OF 


Planting    and    Transplanting 


preferred,  not  only  because  it  is  dug  more  quickly,  but  also  for 
another  reason  of  greater  importance: — when  the  roots,  in  their 
natural  extension  by  growth,  reach  the  wall  of  a  circular  hole, 
they  are  in  danger  of  following  the  line  of  the  circular  wall  and 
thus  confining  themselves  into  a  space  the  size  of  the  original 
circular  hole,  instead  of  extending  into  the  wall  and  thus  into 
the  adjoining  soil  as  they  will  certainly  do  when  the  hole  is  a 
square  one. 

When  digging  the  hole,  the  best  soil  should  be  placed  on  one 
side,  and  the  poorer  soil  on  the  opposite  side.  The  hole  should 
be  made  quite  as  wide  at  the  bottom  as  at  the  top  and  should  be 
deeper  at  the  sides  than  in  the  middle,  and  thus  the  surplus  water 
will  run  to  the  sides  of  the  basin  rather  than  lodge  in  the  center. 

After  the  hole  has  been  got  ready,  the  plant  should  be  ex- 
amined. If  the  top  is  not  uniform  and  equally  balanced,  it  must 
be  pruned  into  uniform  proportion.  It  must  then  be  carefully 
seen  that  the  roots  are  not  matted  or  crowded.  If  the  roots  are 
found  to  be  matted  or  crowded  they  must  be  disentangled  and 
cut  back  to  sound  wood,  and,  if  any  of  them  are  bruised,  they 
should  be  cut  back  with  a  sharp  knife.  The  roots  should  then 
be  placed  in  the  prepared  spot  to  find  out  whether  the  hole  is  of 
the  proper  depth.  It  may  be  found  that  the  neck  of  the  plant  is 
too  high  or  too  low,  and  the  hole  must  be  lowered  or  filled  in,  as 
may  be  necessary,  to  remedy  this,  it  being  always  borne  in  mind 
that  the  bottom  of  the  hole  on  which  the  roots  are  to  rest  should 
be  of  convex  form,  not  only  for  the  reason  just  mentioned 
regarding  the  drainage  of  the  water,  but  so  that  the  roots  will 
point  in  a  downward  direction  as  in  their  natural  state,  rather 
than  in  an  upward  direction  as  too  often  happens  from  neglect 
of  this  precaution.  The  roots  should  also  be  as  equally  dis- 
tributed over  the  surface  of  the  bottom  of  the  hole  as  possible, 
or  as  nearly  so  as  they  were  before  transplanting,  and  as  their 
nature  will  permit. 

A  light  spreading  of  fine,  well-pulverized  soil  should  then 


Gardening    in    Californi 


be  spread  over  the  roots  to  the  depth  of  about  two  inches,  the 
soil  being  thrown  from  the  stem  of  the  plant  toward  the  ends  of 
the  roots.  This  is  of  considerable  importance,  as  the  throwing 
of  the  soil  from  the  ends  of  the  roots  toward  the  stem  has  a 
tendency  to  double  up  the  roots,  not  only  thereby  injuring  them 
by  twisting,  but,  when  they  start  into  growth,  causing  them  to 
grow  toward  the  stem  and  to  crowd  into  bunches  and  mat 
around  the  stem,  instead  of  starting  away  from  the  stem  in 
search  of  fresh  soil,  as  they  would  do  under  natural  circumstances. 

When  the  roots  are  covered  with  two  inches  of  soil,  it  is 
necessary  to  shake  the  stem  a  little  so  as  to  get  all  the  soil  settled 
among  the  roots.  Then  the  hole  should  be  filled  in,  to  within 
three  inches  of  the  top,  and  should  be  given  a  good  soaking  of 
water.  The  hole  should  be  filled  with  water  two  or  three  times, 
this  being  allowed  to  entirely  soak  away ;  when  the  hole  is  partly 
dry,  it  should  be  filled  up  to  the  top  with  soil. 

Should  the  tree,  which  is  being  planted,  be  over  four  feet 
in  height,  it  would  be  well  to  stake  it  with  a  stout  pole,  the  tree 
being  tied  securely  to  the  pole  to  prevent  the  action  of  the  wind 
from  moving  the  tree  before  it  has  made  fresh  roots. 

In  the  case  of  a  large  deciduous  tree,  the  stake  should  be 
driven  into  the  bottom  of  the  hole  before  planting,  and  the 
roots  spread  about  the  stake,  for,  if  the  stake  should  be  driven 
into  the  ground  after  the  tree  is  set  out  and  the  hole  filled  in, 
the  driving  in  of  the  stake  would  very  likely  injure  and  disturb 
the  roots. 

If  a  stake  should  be  required  for  an  evergreen  plant,  it  should 
be  driven  obliquely  into  the  side  of  the  hole  and  clear  of  the 
roots,  and,  of  course,  the  plant  should  be  tied  securely  to  the 
stake. 

In  staking  or  supporting  a  newly  planted  tree  or  shrub,  great 
care  must  be  taken  to  prevent  the  bark  from  being  injured  through 
rubbing  against  the  stake.  In  order  to  prevent  this,  a  padding 
of  old  rubber  or  a  wisp  of  straw,  or  some  other  soft  material, 

[52] 


Planting    and    Transplanting 


should  be  placed  between  the  stake  and  the  stem  of  the  tree.  A 
plant,  which  has  been  staked,  should  be  examined  about  once 
a  month  to  see  that  the  tie  is  not  cutting  into  the  bark  by  the 
natural  swelling  of  the  stem,  or  that  the  padding  has  not  been 
forced  out  of  position,  thus  allowing  the  bark  to  rub  against  the 
stake  by  the  action  of  the  wind. 

After  the  planting  and  staking  is  all  completed,  it  is  a  good 
plan  to  mulch  the  ground  with  horse-manure  half-rotted,  spread 
to  a  depth  of  about  three  inches.  Mulching  is  a  good  means  of 
preserving  the  moisture  and  keeping  the  soil  at  an  even  tempera- 
ture. It  also  prevents  the  soil  from  cracking,  and  proves  beneficial 
through  its  substance  being  washed  into  the  soil  by  rains  or 
artificial  watering. 


Lawn   Outline.     Eucalyptus  and   Conifers. 


53] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


CHAPTER  VI. 

LAWNS. 

IN  preparing  the  part  of  the  site  which  it  has  been  decided 
shall  be  laid  out  in  Lawn,  it  is  of  great  importance,  and  will 

prove  to  be  true  economy,  to  see  that  the  preliminary  work  is 
done  with  the  utmost  carefulness,  for  if  proper  care  is  taken  at 
this  stage,  there  will  not  be  the  annoyance,  the  loss  of  time  or 
the  expense  of  having  to  dig  up  the  lawn  and  practically  do  the 
work  over  again,  which  so  often  has  been  experienced  by  owners 
of  homes  where  the  lawns  were  made  by  men  who  either  were 
careless  or  did  not  thoroughly  understand  what  was  necessary 
to  be  done. 

As  this  preliminary  work  varies  to  a  certain  extent  according 
to  the  class  of  soil,  it  will  be  well  in  this  chapter  on  Lawn-making 
to  refer  to  the  four  most  usual  classes  of  soil  met  with,  namely, 
clay,  brown  loam,  black  dobe  and  light  sandy  soil. 

When  the  soil  is  clay,  it  is  necessary  that  it  be  trenched 
at  least  two  feet  deep.  If  the  work  is  done  in  the  Summer 
Season,  the  soil  should  be  turned  up  and  left  in  rough  condition 
as  long  as  possible, — say  about  six  weeks, — until  it  gets  thor- 
oughly dry  and  warmed  by  the  sun.  It  then  must  be  generously 
manured,  (the  best  for  this  purpose  being  light  stable-manure 
well-rotted),  this  manure  to  be  spaded  in  one  spade  deep,  care 
being  taken  that  the  soil  is  thoroughly  pulverized  and  broken 
as  the  work  goes  along.  It  should  then  be  shaped  and  graded  and 
raked  smooth,  rolled  with  a  light  roller  and  then  raked  again, 
the  lawn  being  now  ready  for  the  seed,  but  it  is  strongly  advised 
that,  before  the  grass  seed  is  sown,  the  first  crop  of  weeds  should 
be  allowed  to  germinate,  and  that  then  the  ground  be  gone  over 

[54] 


Lawns 


with  a  light  scuffle  hoe  which  will  kill  all  the  weeds  if  the 
hoeing  is  done  in  dry  weather.  Taking  this  extra  precaution 
will  save  the  grass  from  afterwards  having  to  struggle  for  ex- 
istence with  the  weeds.  This  hoeing  will  leave  the  ground  too 
rough  for  seed,  so  it  must  be  raked  again  before  sowing. 

The  grass  which  makes  the  best  lawn,  and  the  lawn  most 
easily  kept  in  satisfactory  condition,  is  Kentucky  Blue  Grass. 
The  mixing  of  clover  or  any  other  grass  seed  with  Kentucky  Blue 


Lawn  with  Tree  Groups. 

Grass  seed  is  not  recommended.  When  purchasing  the  seed, 
see  that  it  is  perfectly  clean  and  fresh,  the  quantity  required 
being  about  half  a  pound  of  seed  to  one  hundred  and  fifty  square 
feet  of  lawn.  It  must  be  sown  as  evenly  as  possible,  a  time  for 
sowing  being  selected  when  there  is  absolutely  no  wind;  as  the 
seed  is  very  light  too  much  stress  cannot  be  laid  upon  this  point. 
Immediately  after  sowing,  the  ground  must  be  raked  very  lightly 
with  an  iron  rake.  The  raking  must  be  done  lightly,  as  none 
of  the  seed  must  be  moved  or  dragged  into  bunches,  the  object  of 

[551 


Gardening    in    California 


this  raking  being  to  cover  the  seed  not  more  than  a  quarter  of 
an  inch,  and  to  have  it  as  evenly  distributed  as  can  be  managed. 
When  doing  this,  the  one  who  rakes  must  have  two  wide  boards 
to  stand  upon  and  walk  over,  so  that  his  feet  will  not  mark  or 
indent  the  surface  of  the  soil,  as  such  indentations,  of  course, 
would  make  an  uneven  lawn.  If  this  Kentucky  Blue  Grass  seed 
can  be  successfully  sown,  it  makes  the  best  lawn,  the  closest 
turf,  and  the  most  velvety  surface,  and  is  well  worth  the  extra 
preliminary  trouble.  The  other  strong  grass  seeds,  as  the  English 
Rye  and  the  Orchard,  are  apt  to  run  into  bunches  and  tufts. 

It  is  well  to  remember  that  the  results  from  the  Kentucky 
Blue  Grass  seed  are  considerably  slower  than  from  the  coarser 
grasses.  With  this  grass  it  takes  about  three  months  to  form  a 
turf  when  the  seed  is  sown  in  the  best  season,  which,  in  the 
middle  and  northern  counties  of  California,  is  during  April  and 
May,  or  immediately  after  the  cold  rains  are  past.  In  the 
Southern  and  frostless  regions  this  grass  may  be  sown  earlier  in 
the  year. 

No  water  should  be  applied  to  the  lawn  until  the  seed  has 
been  in  the  ground  at  least  two  days.  Then  the  ground  should 
be  given  a  thorough  soaking  and  should  be  kept  continually 
moist  (by  watering  once  daily  during  dry  weather,  the  evening 
being  the  best  time  for  this  watering)  until  the  young  growth 
is. at  least  one  inch  high  when  three  waterings  per  week  should 
be  enough. 

When  the  young  grass  is  about  one  inch  high,  the  lawn 
should  be  gone  over  again  with  a  light  roller,  the  one  who  does 
the  rolling  being  careful  to  use  two  boards  similarly  to  when 
raking  as  suggested  above,  these  two  boards  being  necessary  for 
the  same  reason,  namely,  to  avoid  indenting  the  lawn  by  boot 
marks.  After  this,  all  that  is  required  is  to  water  when  dry,  and 
mow  as  often  as  is  necessary,  which  in  ordinary  circumstances  is 
about  once  a  week. 

Should  a  rougher  lawn   than  this  be  required,  or,    in   the 

[56] 


awns 


Winter  months  should  a  lawn  effect  be  desired  more  quickly  than 
can  be  secured  from  Kentucky  Blue  Grass,  English  or  Australian 
Rye  Grass  will  give  a  good  lawn  effect  during  that  part  of  the 
year.  Treat  the  ground  as  recommended  above  for  Kentucky 
Blue  Grass.  Sow  the  Rye  Grass  seed  (not  mixed  with  any  other 
seed)  thickly,  and  rake  in  a  little  deeper  than  the  other,  say 
from  three-eighths  to  one-half  an  inch  in  depth,  otherwise  care- 
fully keeping  in  view  the  same  suggestions  regarding  sowing, 
watering,  etc.,  as  for  Kentucky  Blue  Grass. 

In  some  instances  Bermuda  Grass  has  been  used  for  lawns, 
but  on  account  of  its  dry,  dead  effect  during  Winter,  and  the 
fact  that  it  is  difficult  to  eradicate,  it  is  not  considered  suitable 
for  a  good  lawn,  and  is  certainly  not  to  be  compared  with  the 
others  in  any  way. 

With  reference  to  what  is  said  in  this  chapter  as  to  the 
inadvisability  of  mixing  Clover  or  anything  else  with  Blue  or 
Rye  Grass,  and  as  to  the  results  obtained  from  these  grasses,  it 
should  be  mentioned  that  experiments  have  been  made  wjth 
Lippia  reptans,  which  is  a  dwarf  creeping-plant  with  a  small 
oval  leaf  and  a  purple  flower.  This  has  been  tried  and  even 
recommended  as  a  substitute  for  grass.  These  experiments  have 
not  been  successful,  and,  as  the  prevailing  color  effect  is  a  purplish 
gray,  it  lacks  the  refreshing  green  effect  of  a  good  grass  lawn. 

With  regard  to  Clover,  which  is  of  a  strong  growth,  it  re- 
quires more  water  than  grass  and  spreads  so  as  to  kill  the 
grass.  One  great  objection  to  Clover  is  the  stubby  effect  when 
newly  cut,  and  as  a  good  lawn  should  be  cut  about  once  a  week, 
this  is  of  great  importance.  There  are  many  other  grasses  which 
might  be  sown,  but  they  are  either  too  fine  or  too  coarse  for 
practical  lawn  purposes. 

In  young  lawns,  notwithstanding  the  killing  of  the  first  crop 
of  weeds,  as  explained  in  the  early  part  of  this  chapter,  it  is  to 
be  expected  that  many  weeds  will  germinate  and  grow  with  the 
grass,  but  these  must  be  weeded  out  as  soon  as  they  are  large 

[57] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


enough  to  be  pulled  up,  especially  those  weeds  which  have  per- 
ennial roots  such  as  the  Thistle,  the  Dock  and  the  Dandelion. 
On  no  account  should  the  Dandelion  be  allowed  to  seed.  It 
must  be  eradicated  at  once,  because  if  only  one  flower-stalk  or 
head  is  allowed  to  ripen  its  seeds,  it  will  completely  ruin  a  lawn 
in  a  short  period.  There  are  myriads  of  seeds  in  one  of  these 
flower-tops,  and  when  they  are  allowed  to  spread  they  spring  up 
in  a  few  days  and  do  an  immense  amount  of  damage. 

When  the  soil  is  of  brown  loam  or  black  dobe,  the 
treatment  above  suggested  applies  equally  well,  but  it  must 
be  kept  in  view  that  should  the  soil  be  brown  friable  loam 
naturally  well  drained,  all  that  is  necessary  at  the  beginning  is 
to  grade  the  ground  in  the  shape  desired,  and,  instead  of,  as  in 
the  case  of  clay  soil,  trenching  two  feet  deep,  digging  one  foot  or 
one  spade  in  depth  will  be  enough.  The  applying  of  manure 
and  the  rest  of  the  work  should  be  done  as  advised  in  the  case 
of  clay  soil. 

If  the  natural  soil  of  the  site,  where  the  lawn  is  to  be,  is  poor 
sand,  this  sand  must  be  removed  to  the  depth  of  at  least  one  foot 
and  replaced  with  good  loam.  The  loam  should  then  be  manured 
and  the  rest  of  the  work  done  exactly  in  the  same  way  as  recom- 
mended for  the  other  soils. 


58] 


Trees     and     Shrubs 


CHAPTER  VII. 


TREES    AND    SHRUBS. 


ABELIA. 


THE    Abelia    is    one    of 
our   most    free-flowering 
shrubs,    being   in   flower 
nearly  every  month  of  the  year. 
It  is  neat  and  compact   in   its 
habit  of  growth  and  is  excellent 
for  finishing  groups  of  stronger- 
growing  shrubs. 

The  flowers  of  the  Abelia, 
which  are  lilac  or  pink  and  bell- 
shaped,  are  sweet-scented  and 
pretty. 

There  are  four  varieties  of 
the  shrub,  Abelia  rupestris  and 
Abelia  serrata  (natives  of  China),  Abelia  floribunda  (a  native 
of  Mexico)  and  Abelia  triflora.  (a  native  of  India) .  They  flourish 
in  any  good  garden  soil  and  in  any  situation  which  is  not  too 
much  exposed. 

The  Abelia  rupestris,  grouped  with  Veronica  decussata,  May- 
tenus  boaria  or  Leptospermum  laveagatum  makes  a  very  effective 
combination,  all  of  these  being  of  similar  habit. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  placed  in  sandy  leaf-mold  in  a  cold 
frame  during  September  or  October.  When  rooted,  they  should 
be  placed  in  three-inch  pots  and  given  root- room  as  required. 


Abelia  rupestris. 


59] 


Gardening    in    California 


Abies  Morinda. 


ABIES  (Fir). 

A  genus  of  about  twenty-five  spe- 
cies, all  giving  a  grand  effect  in  the 
landscape,  whether  in  group  form  or 
singly  in  the  park  or  lawn.  Most  of 
the  species  are  lofty  conifers,  massive, 
symmetrical  and  handsome,  many  of 
them  with  the  under  side  of  the  leaves 
of  a  silvery  white.  All  are  hardy 
and  delight  in  a  cool  moist  atmos- 
phere and  a  well-drained  soil. 

A  number  of  the  finest  of  the 
species  are  indigenous  to  California, 
Abies  amabilis,  Abies  grandis,  Abies 
Douglassii,  Abies  bracteata,  and 

Abies  Mertensiana,  preferring  the  cool  coast  counties,  while  our 
other  indigenous  species,  including  Abies  nobilis,  Abies  mag- 
nifica,  Abies  Pattoniana,  Abies  concolor,  etc.,  seem  to  prefer  the 
high  valleys  and  ridges  of  the  Sierras.  Many  of  the  exotic 
species,  such  as  the  Abies  Nordmanniana  from  the  Crimea,  the 
Abies  pectinata  from  Central  Europe,  the  Abies  Cephalonica 
from  Greece,  and  all  of  the  Asiatic  species,  such  as  the  Abies 
Morinda,  seem  to  be  at  home  with  our  natives,  and,  when  grow- 
ing side  by  side,  with  the  same  exposure  and  treatment,  do 
equally  well.  The  Eastern  species,  including  the  beautiful  Abies 
balsamea,  seem  also  to  thrive,  especially  when  given  a  sheltered 
half-shady  situation. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  in  February,  one-eighth  of  an  inch 
deep,  in  a  cool  frame;  give  them  plenty  of  air  and  protect  them 
from  small  birds  until  they  are  three  inches  high  when  they 
should  be  pricked  off,  two  inches  apart,  into  boxes,  left  there  one 
year,  and  then  transplanted  into  nursery  rows. 


[60] 


Abies  Mertensiana. 


Trees    and     Shrubs 


Albizzia  Julibrissin. 


ALBIZZIA  JULIBRISSIN. 

One  of  the  most  beautiful  of 
our  small  flowering  trees,  of  wide- 
spreading  habit  and  fern-like 
foliage  with  great  sprays  of  deli- 
cate pale-pink  flowers,  blossom- 
ing in  July  and  August  after  most 
of  our  flowering  trees  are  past 
bloom. 

The  full  effect  of  the  beauty 
of  this  most  interesting  tree  is  had 
when  it  is  planted  on  a  rising 
ground,  against  a  background  of 
pine  or  other  dark  foliage,  in  the 
full  sunlight  in  which  it  seems  to 

delight.  In  the  warm  interior  valleys  this  fine  tree  should  do 
exceedingly  well  if  planted  in  good,  well-drained  soil  and  given 
some  attention  in  the  way  of  cultivation  and  a  little  water  occa- 
sionally at  its  roots. 

It  should  be  grown  extensively  both  in  the  garden  and  as  a 
sidewalk  tree. 

Being  a  native  of  Armenia  and  the  Levant  it  thrives  in  the 
climatic  conditions  along  our  coast  and  even  in  San  Francisco. 

Wherever  it  has  been  planted  and  given  a  little  care  it  has 
proved  to  be  one  of  the  best  trees  for  giving  grand  effects  in  late 
Summer  and  early  Fall. 

It  should  not  be  planted  in  heavy  clay  soil  or  in  a  situation 
where  water  lies  on  the  surface  at  any  time. 

Propagate  by  seeds,  sown  one-quarter  of  an  inch  deep  in  heat, 
in  February  or  March  (or  as  soon  as  received) ;  give  pot-room 
as  required.  Cuttings  are  seldom  successful. 


Gardening    in    California 


ABUTILON    (Bell  Flower). 

A  class  of  shrubs  noted  for 
their  free-flowering  and  showy 
appearance,  belonging  to  the 
mallow  family.  Few  excel  them 
as  ornamental  flowering  shrubs 
for  decorating  the  shrubbery, 
especially  if  they  are  given  a 
sheltered  situation  on  a  sloping 
bank  where  the  flowers  may  be 
viewed  from  below.  They  thrive 
well  in  any  good  garden  soil 
with  ordinary  treatment, 

There  are  many  varieties, 
including  Abutilon  admiration, 

Abutilon  fire  king,  Abutilon  purpurea,  Abutilon  Boule  de  Niege, 
etc.,  besides  many  variegated  forms,  all  worthy  of  cultivation. 

Propagate  by  cuttings,  in  July  or  August,  inserted,  in  pots 
or  boxes,  in  soil  composed  of  half  sand,  half  well-decomposed 
leaf-mold,  placed  in  a  cold  frame  and  shaded  for  a  few  days. 


Abutilon 


ACACIA. 

A  genus  of  highly  ornamental  and  decorative  shrubs  or  trees, 
natives  of  New  Holland,  South  America  and  North  Africa. 
Most  of  the  evergreen  species  came  originally  from  Australia 
and  are  among  our  special  favorites.  All  are  vigorous  growers 
and  abundant  bloomers,  and,  if  carefully  selected,  may  be  had 
in  bloom  every  month  of  the  year,  beginning  with  Acacia  longi- 
folia,  which  flowers  in  January,  followed  closely  by  the  beauti- 
ful fern-leaved  Acacia  mollissima,  with  its  great  masses  of 
sulphur-yellow  racemes  on  a  tree  from  forty  to  sixty  feet  in 
height,  with  a  spread  of  branch  as  much  in  diameter.  This 

[64] 


Trees     and     Shrubs 


Acacia  armata. 


stands  without  a  rival  as  a  flowering 
tree  in  our  early  Spring  months. 

The  Acacia  is  a  very  extensive 
genus,  the  number  of  species  being 
nearly  four  hundred.  Over  one  hun- 
dred species  have  been  introduced  into 
California  and  almost  all  of  them  have 
proved  to  be  perfectly  hardy,  growing 
freely  in  any  soil  and  standing  expo- 
sure to  our  harshest  winds,  while  one, 
at  least,  rivals  our  hardiest  trees  in 
standing  salt  winds,  growing  almost 
within  touch  of  salt  spray  on  the  poor- 
est land. 

Amongst  the  best  of  the  shrubbery  species  are  Acacia  armata, 
Acacia  cultriformis,  Acacia  Baileyana,  Acacia  floribunda,  Acacia 
lineata,  Acacia  longifolia,  Acacia  riceana,  etc.,  and  those  which 
assume  tree  form,  Acacia  dealbata,  Acacia  decurrens,  Acacia 
mollissima,  Acacia  melanoxylon  and  Acacia  lophanta. 

Acacia  Baileyana,  one  of  the  earliest  to  bloom,  opens  its 

great  bundles  of  yellow 
flowers  early  in  January. 
Its  silvery  fern-like  foli- 
age, blending  with  its 
beautiful  flowers,  makes  it 
a  charming  object  in  gar- 
den or  shrubbery.  It 
grows  to  the  height  of 
thirty  feet.  Acacia  mol- 
lissima blooms  in  Febru- 
ary, Acacia  pyonantha 

Acacia  lophanta.  flowers    ^   eady   $umm^ 

Acacia  cultriformis  a  little  later  and  Acacia  calamifolia  in  late 
Fall,  making  a  continuous  season  of  bloom  throughout  the  year. 

[65] 


Gardening    in    California 


Propagate  by  seeds  sown  one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep  in  a 
cold  frame  or  greenhouse  in  March;  prick  them  out  into  pots 
or  boxes  when  they  are  three  inches  high  and  plant  them  out  in 
permanent  quarters  the  following  Spring. 


ACER    (Maple). 

A  genus  of  highly  ornamental  hardy  deciduous  trees  or 
shrubs  greatly  valued  for  the  effect  produced  either  when  planted 
in  group-form  in  our  large  grounds,  or  when  growing  as  single 
trees,  on  the  margins  of  lawns,  or  as  sidewalk  trees  on  sheltered 
streets.  The  Maple  loves  a  sheltered  situation  in  a  soft  moist 
soil,  and  plenty  of  water  at  the  root  during  the  growing  season. 

Acer  negundo  stands  exposure  better  than  any  other  species, 
and,  in  good  soil,  makes  a  fine  shade  tree  even  when  given  con- 
siderable exposure.  Acer  macrophyllum,  our  native  species, 
becomes  a  handsome  tree  of  large  proportions  with  a  stately 
stem  often  three  feet  or  more  in  diameter  with  branches  to  the 
height  of  twenty  feet,  its  spread  of  limbs  shading  an  area  from 
seventy-five  to  one  hundred  feet  across. 

Acer  campestre,  the  English  Maple,  is  a  small  tree  with  small 
cordate  leaves. 

Acer  Japonicum,  the  Japanese  Maple,  and  its  varieties  make 
an  effective  shrubbery  group,  their  deeply  cut,  variously  tinted 
leaves  being  very  beautiful. 

Acer  saccharinum,  the  Sugar  Maple,  is  one  of  the  very  best 
of  our  deciduous  trees.  Where  given  good  soil  and  a  situation 
not  too  greatly  exposed  it  makes  a  fine  tree  either  for  the  side- 
walk or  as  a  single  specimen  on  the  lawn. 

Acer  Schwedlerii  gives  beautiful  color  effects  in  early  Spring 
and  also  in  the  Fall. 

Our  native  Acer  circinatum,  the  dwarf  species  of  Acer 
Japonica  and  its  varieties,  and  the  many  varieties-  of  Acer 

[66] 


Trees     and     Shrub 


palmatum  make  beautiful  shrubs  early  in  Spring  when  the  young 
leaves  first  open,  and  again  in  the  Fall  when  they  take  on  their 
Autumn  tints  of  red  and  yellow. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  as  soon  as  ripe,  in  Autumn,  in  the 
open  ground,  covering  the  seeds  about  one-quarter  of  an  inch  deep. 
The  rarer  varieties  and  the  variegated  forms  are  propagated  by 
grafting  in  Spring  or  by  budding  in  Summer  on  the  common 
species. 

ACHANIA    (Turk's  Cap). 


The  Turk's  Cap,  (named 
from  its  scarlet  cap-like  flower), 
is  a  very  pretty  evergreen  flower- 
ing shrub  with  heart-shaped  leaves 
of  pale-green,  belonging  to  the 
genus  Malvacea.  It  requires  a 
sheltered  situation  and  partial 
shade,  such  as  under  the  branches 
of  a  deciduous  tree  away  from 
strong  sunshine  and  protected 
from  frost,  and  grows  freely  in 
any  good  soil  not  too  heavy. 

Propagate  by  placing  cuttings 
of  half-ripe  wood  in  sandy  soil 

in  a  cool  frame  in  September  and  shading  them  from  sunshine 
until  rooted;  when  rooted,  pot  them  singly  in  three-inch  pots 
and  plant  them  out  the  following  Spring. 


Achania  malvaviscus. 


(Chestnut  —  Horse). 

A  well-known  hardy  ornamental  deciduous  tree  with  showy 
flowers  and  compound  leaves  well  adapted  for  single  specimens 
on  large  lawns.  It  does  well  in  any  good  deep  soil  protected 
from  the  harsh  wind. 


Gardening    in    Californi 


Plant  the  seeds,  as  soon  as  gathered,  one  inch  deep  in  nursery 
rows  one  foot  apart;  plant  them  in  their  permanent  situations 
when  they  are  four  feet  in  height.  There  are  several  fine  species 
including  ^Esculus  hippocastanum,  (the  common  European 
variety),  ^Esculus  Calif ornica,  (the  common  Buckeye)  ^Esculus 
glabra,  (the  Ohio  Buckeye)  and  a  red-flowering  variety  named 
^Esculus  carnea;  all  are  handsome  and  very  desirable. 

ALNUS  (Alder). 

A  genus  of  hardy  deciduous  trees  or  shrubs  which  delight 
in  moist  situations,  preferably  on  the  banks  of  a  perennial  run- 
ning stream.  They  form  handsome  upright  clean-stemmed  trees 
with  roundish  leaves  and  grow  to  a  height  of  from  fifty  to  eighty 
feet.  They  are  not  particular  as  to  soil,  provided  they  are  given 
plenty  of  water  at  the  root  and  a  sheltered  situation. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  in  early  Spring,  in  the  open  ground 
and  covered  not  more  than  one-quarter  of  an  inch  deep;  the 
following  Winter,  plant  them  in  nursery  rows  one  foot  apart; 
when  they  are  three  feet  high,  plant  them  where  they  are  to 
remain. 

ALOYSIA  CITRIODORA  (Sweet  Scented  Verbena). 

Hardy  deciduous  shrubs  with  sweet-scented  leaves  and  in- 
conspicuous lilac-colored  flowers.  In  the  Eastern  States  and  in 
Europe  these  shrubs  are  grown  in  the  greenhouse  where  they  are 
general  favorites  for  cutting.  In  California  they  grow  to  the 
height  of  ten  feet  or  more,  having  trunks  six  inches  (and  even 
greater)  in  diameter.  They  flourish  in  any  good  garden  soil  and 
stand  a  reasonable  amount  of  exposure. 

Propagation  of  the  Aloysia  is  effected  by  cuttings  of  the 
young  wood  placed  in  a  cool  frame  in  sandy  soil  in  early  Sum- 
mer. They  should  be  shaded,  during  sunshine,  for  a  period  of 
two  weeks  and  should  be  potted  singly  in  two-inch  pots  as  soon 
as  the  cuttings  are  rooted. 

[68] 


Trees     and     Shrubs 


AMYGDALUS    (Almond). 

This  well-known  hardy,  ornamental,  deciduous,  vigorous 
grower  is  one  of  the  earliest  and  most  free-flowering  of  our 
trees  and  shrubs,  the  common  single  sometimes  opening  its  pink 
blossoms  as  early  as  the  middle  of  January,  followed  by  the 
double-flowered  varieties  which  succeed  each  other  carrying  the 
season  well  into  April. 

Any  good  soil,  if  well  drained,  suits  the  Almond,  and,  if  the 
soil  is  kept  cultivated,  the  tree  requires  no  artificial  irrigation 
except  in  very  dry  seasons. 

The  single-flowered  species  are  propagated  by  seeds  planted 
one  inch  deep  in  the  open  ground,  in  Fall  or  early  Spring,  and 
the  double  varieties  by  budding  on  the  common  Almond  or  on 
seedling  plum-stocks  in  Summer. 

ARAUCARIA. 

A  genus  of  noble  evergreen  trees  of  vigorous  habit  and  formal 
symmetrical  outline  having  horizontal  branches  in  regular 
whorls,  natives  of  South  America  and  Australia.  All  are  very 
desirable  trees  for  large  grounds  and  parks. 

They  delight  in  a  good  strong  loam  free  from  stagnant 
moisture  but  must  have  frequent  waterings  at  the  roots  during 
the  Summer  months. 

Araucaria  Bidwellii,  Araucaria  Braziliensis,  Araucaria  Cookii, 
Araucaria  excelsa,  and  Araucaria  imbricata  all  make  splendid 
ornamental  trees  in  this  climate. 

Propagate  by  seeds  planted  point  down,  pressed  into  the  soil 
half  their  length,  as  soon  as  received  (no  matter  at  what  time), 
in  a  cold  frame  and  left  without  being  disturbed  until  the  follow- 
ing Spring  when  they  should  be  planted  in  nursery  rows  and 
again  transplanted  each  year  until  large  enough  to  be  placed  in 
their  permanent  sites. 

[69] 


Gardening    in    California 


ARBUTUS. 

Among  the  many  species  of  Arbutus  are  several  of  our  most 
handsome  evergreen  trees.  The  Madrone  (Arbutus  Menziesii) 
and  the  Strawberry  tree  (Arbutus  unedo)  both  do  splendidly  in 
California.  Their  large,  glossy,  smooth  leaves  of  elliptical  shape, 
their  fragrant  heath-like  white  flowers  and  their  bunches  of  red 
or  yellow  berries  in  the  Autumn  make  them,  features  in  the  land- 
scape or  shrubbery. 

Propagate  by  sowing  the  seeds  in  the  open  ground  as  soon 
as  they  are  ripe,  covering  them  to  the  depth  of  a  quarter  of  an 
inch.  Transplant  the  seedlings,  when  a  year  old,  into  nursery 
rows,  setting  them  six  inches  apart.  They  should  be  replanted 
each  year  until  they  become  large  enough  to  be  planted  where 
they  are  to  remain. 

AUCUBA  JAPONICA. 

A  genus  of  evergreen  hardy  shrubs  with  laurel-like  leaves 
smooth  and  glossy  in  appearance,  bearing  bunches  of  scarlet  ber- 
ries late  in  the  Fall.  They  are  exceedingly  effective  in  the  shrub- 
bery during  the  Winter  months  when  color  is  most  needed.  They 
delight  in  plenty  of  water  during  the  growing  season. 

They  make  handsome  veranda  plants,  grown  in  large  pots  or 
boxes,  especially  when  in  fruit.  There  are  several  varieties  with 
variegated  foliage  such  as  Picta  alba  variegata,  bicolor  and  aurea. 

To  insure  a  good  supply  of  the  very  ornamental  berries,  which 
are  produced  on  the  female  plant  only,  hand  fertilizing  may  be 
necessary.  The  time  for  applying  the  pollen  is  when  the  pistil 
exudes  a  slightly  gummy  substance.  Should  the  pollen  be  ripe 
before  the  pistil  is  mature,  it  may  be  preserved  by  being  collected 
on  a  piece  of  dry  paper  and  kept  in  a  dry  place.  It  should  be 
applied  with  a  camel's  hair  brush.  The  pollen  retains  its  power 
for  two  weeks  or  perhaps  a  little  longer.  Any  well-drained 

[70] 


Trees    and     Shrubs 


garden  soil  is  suitable  for  growing  the  Aucuba,  and  any  situation 
not  in  the  glaring  hot  sun.  It  does  remarkably  well  even  in  the 
dust  and  smoke  of  the  city. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  from  short-jointed  half-ripe  wood 
placed  in  sandy  soil  in  a  cool  frame  in  September;  shade  during 
sunshine  for  the  first  two  weeks.  It  can  also  be  propagated  by 
sowing  the  seeds  one-quarter  of  an  inch  deep  as  soon  as  ripe  or  in 
March.  Remove  the  fleshy  coating  from  the  seeds  before  sowing. 

AZALEA. 


Azalea. 


A  genus  of  evergreen  or 
deciduous  flowering  shrubs 
which  should  be  seen  in 
every  collection  as  they  are 
all  free-flowering  and  of 
good  habit  of  growth.  They 
delight  in  a  half -shady  situ- 
ation protected  from  harsh 
winds  and  strong  sun- 
shine, and  away  from  cold 
draughts.  They  prefer  a 
light  sandy  soil  and  abun- 
dance of  water  within  reach  of  their  roots. 

Propagate,  in  June  or  July  by  cuttings  of  half-ripe  wood 
taken  off  with  a  heel;  insert  them  in  pots  filled  with  soil  com- 
posed of  half  silver-sand,  half  leaf -mold  well  mixed  together; 
place  them  in  a  cool  frame,  and  shade,  during  sunshine,  until 
rooted.  When  rooted,  plant  them  in  small  p6ts  and  return  them 
to  the  frame ;  shade  them  until  they  form  fresh  roots  when  they 
should  be  placed  in  a  shady  spot  out  of  doors  or  preferably  in 
a  lath  house,  the  object  being  to  keep  the  plants  as  cool  as  possible. 

The  evergreen  species  seem  to  do  best  when  grown  in  pots  in 


Gardening    in    Californi 


a  lath-house  or  under  the  shade  of  a  deciduous  tree,  being  brought 
into  the  greenhouse  only  during  the  season  of  flowering  which  is 
in  late  Winter  and  early  Spring.  As  soon  as  they  finish  flowering, 
the  seed-pods  should  be  picked  off  and  the  plants  returned  to  the 
lath-house  so  as  to  make  their  young  growth.  As  their  roots  are 
very  fine,  the  soil  should  never  be  allowed  to  become  dry.  The 
deciduous  species  are  best  grown  in  the  open  border  partially 
shaded  by  deciduous  trees. 

AZARA  MlCROPHYLLA. 

A  showy  evergreen  shrub  with  small  box-like  foliage  and  of 
graceful  habit  of  growth,  bearing  fragrant  flowers  succeeded  by 
orange-colored  berries.  Being  a  native  of  Chile,  it  is  well  adapted 
to  our  climate. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  of  firm  wood  of  present  season's  growth, 
placed  in  sand,  in  cold  frame  in  September  or  early  in  October. 

BANKSIA. 

The  Banksia  is  a  very  desirable  class  of  small  trees  or  shrubs, 
native  of  Australia.  It  has  handsome  serrated  leaves  (covered 
with  white  down)  and  brilliant  masses  of  feathery-looking 
flowers  making  a  pleasing  effect  in  the  garden  or  shrubbery. 

'  In  Australia  the  Banksia  is  known  as  the  Scrub  Honeysuckle 
from  the  fact  that  when  the  cylindrical-shaped  flowers  are  in  full 
bloom  they  contain  a  sweet  honey-like  liquid. 

The  genus  contains  many  varieties  and  grows  in  any  soil  well 
drained  even  if  it  be  the  poorest  sand. 

Propagate  by  seeds,  which  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  received, 
in  soil  composed  of  half  sand  and  half  leaf-mold;  cover  the  seeds 
one-quarter  of  an  inch  deep  and  place  them  in  a  cold  frame. 
When  the  seedlings  are  one  inch  high,  pot  them  singly  in  two-inch 
pots. 

[72] 


Trees     and     Shrubs 


BENTHAMIA. 

Hardy  evergreen  small  trees  or  shrubs,  natives  of  Japan  and 
South  Africa.  They  have  white  cornus-like  flowers  which  con- 
tinue in  bloom  for  nearly  two  months.  The  reddish  strawberry- 
like  fruit  hangs  on  the  tree  late  into  the  winter,  making  the  plant 
a  very  desirable  one  for  the  shrubbery  border. 

The  Benthamia  is  not  particular  as  to  soil  and  requires  very 
little  irrigation. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  in  early  Spring,  in  the  open  border 
or  in  a  cold  frame,  in  light  soil.  The  seeds  should  be  covered  to 
the  depth  of  one-quarter  of  an  inch  and  the  young  plants  should 
be  transplanted  when  they  are  a  year  old. 

BERBERIS  (Berberry). 

The  Berberis  is  a  genus  of  shrubs  of  which  many  varieties 
have  handsome  shiny  compound  leaves  while  the  leaves  of  others 
are  small,  round,  oval  or  holly-like. 

Berberis  aquifolium,  one  of  the  favorite  varieties,  is  a  native 
of  California  and  Oregon.  It  delights  in  a  shady  hillside,  mak- 
ing a  very  good  undergrowth. 

Berberis  Darwinii  is  a  beautiful  Winter-blooming  plant.  It 
forms  a  dense  bush,  and,  when  covered  with  its  bright  orange- 
colored  flowers,  makes  a  striking  effect. 

Berberis  Nepaulense  also  has  yellow  flowers  and  compound 
leaves  with  from  six  to  ten  pairs  of  leaflets  of  a  rich  holly-green ; 
it  bears  large  clusters  of  purple  berries  during  the  Winter  months. 
It  should  be  planted  in  a  shady  spot  protected  from  drying  winds. 

Berberis  Japonica  is  another  of  the  Nepaul  type  with  com- 
pound leaves  and  purple  fruit.  Other  desirable  kinds  are  steno- 
phylla,  buxifolia  and  loxensis. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep  as 
soon  as  ripe,  or  by  layers,  suckers  or  cuttings  put  in  sandy  soil  the 
end  of  September  or  early  in  October. 

[73] 


Gardening    in    California 


BETULA  ALBA  (Birch). 

The  Birch  is  a  highly  ornamental  deciduous  tree  of  graceful, 
sometimes  drooping  habit,  bearing  light-green  leaves.  All  of  the 
species  are  hardy  and  will  grow  freely  in  any  well-drained  soil, 
provided  they  get  abundance  of  water  at  the  roots.  A  situation 
on  or  about  a  well-kept  lawn  suits  the  Birch  admirably  if  well- 
sheltered  from  harsh  winds.  Fine  effects  are  produced  by  com- 
bining the  Birch  with  the  Bamboo,  as,  when  planted  in  group 
form,  their  habits  of  growth  blend  well  together. 

Propagate  by  seeds  which  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  in 
a  shady  border  in  light  sandy  soil;  barely  cover  the  seeds  with 
the  soil.  The  seedlings  should  be  transplanted,  when  a  year  old, 
into  nursery  rows. 

BOUVARDIA. 


A  very  useful  Fall-flowering 
little  shrub  with  opposite  leaves 
and  tubular-shaped  fragrant 
flowers,  a  native  of  Mexico  and 
Texas.  Bouvardia  angustifolia, 
Bouvardia  scabra  and  Bouvardia 
jasminiflora  are  among  the  best 
for  outdoor  culture. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  put  in 
a  cold  frame  early  in  August, 
using  half-ripe  wood,  or  in  the 
open  ground,  in  November,  in 
sandy  soil,  using  firm  ripe  wood, 
the  cuttings  to  be  about  six 

inches  in  length,  of  the  previous  season's  growth  and  planted 

four  inches  deep. 

[74] 


Bouvardia. 


Trees    and     Shrubs 


Buxus. 


Buxus  (<fhe  free  Boxwood). 

This  is  an  excellent  shrub 
for  the  coast  counties,  being 
evergreen  and  of  a  dense  habit; 
it  requires  no  pruning.  Slow  of 
growth  and  always  clear  of  dust, 
it  gets  along  with  little  water. 
It  should  also  make  an  excellent 
box  plant  for  verandas,  etc.  It 
thrives  in  any  garden  soil. 

Some    very    good    varieties 
have  been  introduced  from  Ja- 
pan, several  of  them  with  larger 
leaves  and  more  vigorous  habit 
of  growth  than  any  of  the  Euro- 
pean species,  one  of  these  being  Buxus  Japonica,  which  grows 
to  the  height  of  ten  feet,  while  Buxus  Japonica  variety  micro- 
phylla  has  very  small  leaves,  grows  rather  conical  in  shape  and 
forms  a  dense  bush. 

Buxus  longifolia  (a  native  of  Northern  India)  has  narrow 
elliptic-shaped  leaves.  Buxus  Balearica  is  the  largest  grower 
of  the  genus,  has  yellowish-green  leaves  and,  in  good  soil,  grows 
to  the  height  of  thirty  feet.  Buxus  sufFruticosa,  the  dwarf  spe- 
cies, is  much  used  in  formal  gardening,  in  making  edges  to  foot- 
paths and  flower-beds,  and  in  bordering  walks  in  vegetable 
gardens. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  six  inches  long,  inserted  four  inches 
in  sandy  soil  at  any  time  between  September  and  February. 

When  the  cuttings  are  of  the  dwarf  variety,  for  an  edging 
or  border,  they  should  be  planted  singly  about  one  inch  apart. 


75 


Gardening    in    Californi 


Callistemon. 


CALLISTEMON. 

A  genus  of  very  pretty 
Summer  and  Fall-flowering 
shrubs  with  narrow  pointed 
leaves  and  showy  flowers. 
All  are  graceful  in  habit 
and  grow  well  in  any  fair 
garden  soil  where  they  re- 
quire very  little  attention 
if  the  ground  is  cultivated 
once  a  year  and  kept  loose 
on  the  surface  and  clear  of 
weeds. 

There  are  several  species  all  natives  of  Australia. 
Propagate  by  seeds  sown  one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep  in  April. 
When  the  seedlings  are  three  inches  high,  pot  them  singly  in 
three-inch  pots  or  plant  them  three  inches  apart  in  boxes,  in  light, 
sandy  soil;  keep  the  young  plants  in  pots  or  boxes  until  the 
following  Spring  when  they  will  be  large  enough  to  be  planted 
in  the  open  ground  in  nursery  rows  or  in  their  permanent 
quarters. 

CALYCANTHUS    (Carolina  Allspice). 

The  Calycanthus  is  a  handsome  deciduous  shrub  with  sweet- 
scented  red  or  yellow-brown  flowers,  native  of  this  State,  the 
Southern  States  and  Japan. 

It  grows  in  any  good  soil,  which  is  well  drained,  and  prefers 
a  well-sheltered  situation. 

Propagate  by  sowing  the  seeds  during  Spring  in  a  cold  frame, 
covering  the  seeds  to  the  depth  of  one-quarter  of  an  inch ;  also  by 
division  of  the  roots  of  the  older  plants  in  Winter  or  early  Spring. 


76 


Trees    and     Shrubs 


CAMELLIA. 


Camellia. 


A  genus  of  hardy  evergreen 
trees  or  shrubs  of  elegant  habit, 
bearing  gorgeous  vari-colored 
flowers.  Some  are  single,  many 
are  semi-double,  and  hundreds  of 
varieties  have  double  flowers  in 
all  shades  of  red,  pink,  and 
white  or  beautifully  mottled  or 
striped.  With  a  good  well- 
selected  variety,  they  may  be 
had  in  bloom  for  four  or  five 
months  beginning  in  January. 

The  Camellia  loves  a  par- 
tially-shaded situation  away 

from  cold  winds,  good,  deep,  sandy  soil  and  plenty  of  water  dur- 
ing the  Summer  months. 

Propagate,  in  September,  by  cuttings,  or  by  layering  in  the 
usual  manner  in  June  and  July,  or  by  seeds  sown  one-quarter  of 
an  inch  deep  as  soon  as  delivered  or  in  the  early  Spring. 

CARAGANA. 

Hardy  deciduous  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs  with  pinnate 
leaves  and  pea-shaped  flowers,  mostly  natives  of  Siberia  and 
Northern  China.  They  grow  in  any  garden  soil. 

Propagate,  between  November  and  February,  by  cuttings  of 
the  roots  or  by  layers,  or  by  seeds  sown  in  Spring.  Cover  the 
seeds  to  the  depth  of  one-eighth  of  an  inch. 


[77] 


Gardening    in    California 


CARPINUS  BETULUS   (Hornbean). 

A  hardy  deciduous  tree  with  simple  leaves  and  flowers  in 
catkins.  It  stands  exposure  well,  grows  in  any  soil,  and  should 
make  a  good  street  tree  where  deciduous  low-growing  trees  are 
preferred. 

It  also  forms  a  very  good  hedge  and  stands  clipping  well. 
As  the  leaves  remain  on  the  branches  throughout  the  Winter,  it 
forms  an  excellent  shelter,  standing  the  winds  and  storms  better 
than  most  deciduous  trees. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  in  early  Spring,  one-quarter  of 
an  inch  deep  in  the  open  ground;  transplant  the  seedlings  to 
the  nursery  row  when  they  are  one  year  old.  If  they  are  wanted 
for  hedge  purposes,  they  should  be  cut  back  to  six  inches  when 
transplanted  so  as  to  make  them  branch  closely  to  the  ground. 

CARYA. 

A  handsome,  slow-growing  tree  with  pinnate,  walnut-like, 
light-green,  deciduous  leaves.  It  is  of  a  spreading  habit  and 
delights  in  good,  rich,  bottom,  soil  and  a  sheltered  situation.  The 
wood  is  heavy,  hard,  tough  and  strong.  The  nuts  of  many  spe- 
cies such  as  the  pecan  and  the  shagbark  are  of  good  flavor  and 
are  produced  in  large  quantities  on  the  older  trees.  Any  one 
having  a  piece  of  land  by  the  side  of  a  creek  where  the  soil  is 
deep  and  rich  and  the  situation  well-sheltered  should  plant  a 
few  Hickories. 

Carya  alba  (the  shell-bark  Hickory)  makes  a  grand  speci- 
men from  sixty  to  seventy  feet  high. 

Carya  olivseformis  (the  Pecan  nut  tree)  also  becomes  a 
splendid  tree.  It  differs  in  habit  from  the  Hickory,  being  more 
upright  in  its  form  and  having  from  twelve  to  fifteen  leaflets 
on  each  leaf. 

Propagate  by  seeds  planted  in  Fall  or  Winter  one  inch  deep 
where  they  are  intended  to  remain  permanently. 

[78] 


Trees    and     Shrubs 


CASSIA. 


This  is  one  of  the  most  com- 
mon of  our  California  garden 
shrubs  which  gives  a  fine  show 
of  pea-shaped  yellow  flowers  in 
Winter.  It  has  pinnate  leaves 
and  grows  from  six  to  twelve 
feet  in  height.  It  should  be 
pruned  back  each  Spring  so  that 
the  plant  will  keep  in  shape  and 
make  strong  shoots.  It  flowers 
most  freely  on  the  previous 
year's  wood.  It  thrives  in  any 
garden  soil  and  requires  no  arti-  Cassia. 

ficial  irrigation  if  the  ground  is 
kept  cultivated  and  clear  of  weeds. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  this  popular  shrub  including 
C.  corymbosa,  C.  Marylandica,  C.  sophora,  etc.,  all  being  of 
easy  culture. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep  in  a  cold 
frame  in  early  Spring;  when  the  young  seedlings  are  three  inches 
high,  they  should  be  potted  or  planted  either  in  boxes  or  in  the 
open  ground. 

CASTANEA  (Chestnut). 

The  sweet  or  Spanish  Chestnut  is  a  large  spreading  deciduous 
tree  of  good  habit  and  very  ornamental.  It  delights  in  a  shel- 
tered situation  and  should  have  deep,  well-drained,  sandy  loam. 
Never  plant  it  in  a  cold  clay  subsoil. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  one  inch  deep  in  the  open  ground 
between  November  and  February.  The  following  Spring  trans- 
plant the  seedlings  into  nursery  rows  one  foot  apart  between  the 
plants  and  two  feet  between  the  rows. 

[79] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


CASUARINA  (She  Oak). 


Casuarina. 


The  Casuarinas  are  a 
genus  of  jointed  leafless 
trees  which  have  a  very  dis- 
tinct and  peculiar  effect  in 
any  landscape,  their  long, 
drooping,  feather-like  habit 
being  quite  different  from 
that  of  any  other  tree. 
They  reach  a  height  of 
from  sixty  to  eighty  feet, 
are  evergreen,  grow  in  any 
soil,  stand  exposure  well 

and  should  be  planted  more  commonly  than  they  are. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  put  into  a  cold  frame  in  the  Fall  and 

potted  off  in  Spring  or  as  soon  as  they  are  well-rooted;    also  by 

seeds  sown  in  Spring.    Cover  the  seeds  to  the  depth  of  one-eighth 

of  an  inch. 

CEANOTHUS  (California  Lilac). 

This  elegant  native  of  our  hill- 
sides deserves  more  attention  from 
planters  than  it  now  receives,  few 
flowering-shrubs  equalling  it  for 
grouping  in  large  grounds  or  as 
single  plants  in  small  gardens.  Its 
graceful  habit  of  growth,  its  deep- 
green  leaves,  and  its  showers  of 
blue  or  white  panicles  of  sweet- 
scented  blossoms  make  it  effective 
in  any  garden.  Its  culture  is  very 
simple  as  it  seems  to  thrive  and 
bloom  in  the  poorest  soils  and  in 
all  aspects.  r  go  1 


C  can  o  thus. 


Trees     and     Shrubs 


Propagate  by  sowing  the  seeds  one-sixteenth  of  an  inch  deep, 
in  the  open  ground  in  early  Spring,  and  transplanting,  where 
required,  the  following  season. 


Cedrus  Libani. 
(Young  Specimen). 


CEDRUS. 

A  majestic  evergreen  coniferous 
tree  with  large  spreading  branches. 
It  delights  in  a  deep  well-drained 
gravelly  loam  and  a  sheltered  situa- 
tion where  it  grows  to  the  height  of 
from  eighty  to  one  hundred  feet. 

Cedrus  Libani  (the  Cedar  of 
Lebanon)  is  of  similar  habit  to  our 
Monterey  Cypress,  both  as  a  young 
tree  (when  its  habit  is  pyramidal) 
and  as  a  full-grown  specimen  when 
it  assumes  the  spreading,  picturesque 
form,  with  horizontal  branches  and 
broad  flat  head  of  dark  mossy-green 
foliage,  which  is  so  greatly  admired. 

Cedrus  Atlantica  (from  Mount  Atlas)  is  very  similar  in 
appearance  to  Cedrus  Libani,  being,  however,  more  pyramidal 
in  habit  and  having  a  lighter,  more  glaucous-colored  leaf.  Cedrus 
Atlantica  glauca,  a  silvery-leafed  form  of  Cedrus  Atlantica,  is 
a  most  desirable  variety  on  account  of  its  striking,  silvery-grey 
effect  when  planted  among  trees  which  have  dark-green  foliage. 

Cedrus  Deodora  (the  East  Indian  Cedar)  becomes  a  much 
larger  tree  than  any  other  of  the  species,  growing,  under  favor- 
able conditions,  to  the  height  of  two  hundred  feet  and  having  a 
stem  over  ten  feet  in  diameter.  When  young  it  is  a  gracefully 
pyramidal  tree,  densely  set  with  leaves  of  a  glaucous  green. 

Propagate  by  seeds   sown   one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep,  in 
Spring  or  as  soon  as  ripe. 

[81] 


Gardening    in    California 


CERASUS. 

A  genus  of  hardy,  deciduous, 
or  evergreen  trees  or  shrubs, 
many  species  of  which  are  highly 
ornamental,  our  native,  ever- 
green species  being  in  many  re- 
spects the  most  handsome  of  all. 
Its  shiny  dark-green,  holly-like 
leaves  and  bushy  habit  make  it 
a  general  favorite  with  planters. 
It  grows  freely  in  any  garden 
soil  which  is  well-drained,  pre- 
ferring a  loose  rocky  soil  with 
an  Eastern  exposure.  The  so- 
called  English  Laurel  and  the 
Portuguese  species  are  also  much  admired,  and  the  Chinese, 
double-flowering  deciduous  species  is  one  of  our  gayest  Spring- 
flowering  shrubs. 

Our  native  species  Cerasus  ilicifolia  is  propagated  by  seeds 
sown  one-half  of  an  inch  deep,  in  early  Spring,  either  where  they 
are  to  remain,  or  singly  in  pots  where  they  should  be  kept  until 
they  are  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  high. 

The  English  and  Portuguese  Laurels  may  be  propagated  by 
seeds  sown,  one-quarter  of  an  inch  deep,  in  the  open  ground  in 
early  Spring,  or  by  cuttings  planted  in  October  in  sandy  soil  in 
the  open  ground  where  they  should  be  kept  for  one  year  and  then 
planted  in  nursery  rows  until  required. 

Cerasus  serrulata  and  other  double-flowering  varieties  are 
propagated  by  budding  on  the  common  Cherry  about  May. 


Portugal  Laurel. 


82] 


Trees     and     Shrub 


CERCIS  (Judas  free). 

An  ornamental,  hardy,  deciduous, 
low-growing  tree  with  heart-shaped 
leaves  and  pea-shaped  flowers  which 
thickly  crowd  the  branches,  flowering 
before  the  leaves  open.  When  in  bloom 
in  early  Spring  it  gives  a  very  good 
effect.  It  grows  in  the  foothills  of  the 
State  by  the  sides  of  creeks,  mixing  very 
prettily  with  the  alder  and  the  willow, 
and,  when  in  flower,  may  be  seen  for 
miles,  causing  the  traveller  to  wonder 
what  the  striking  object  is.  It  delights 
in  rich,  moist,  well-drained  soil  in  a  Certis. 

semi-shaded  situation  away  from  the  wind.  It  is  propagated  by 
seeds  sown,  in  early  Spring,  one-quarter  of  an  inch  deep  in  the 
open  ground. 

CESTRUM. 

An  evergreen  shrub  of  upright 
habit  and  variously-colored  flowers  in 
cymes  or  fascicles  blooming  in  Win- 
ter or  early  Spring.  It  should  have  a 
well-sheltered  position  and  does  best  in 
light  sandy  soil,  not  being  hardy  where 
the  temperature  falls  below  twenty-six 
degrees  Fahrenheit.  The  best  known 
species  are  Cestrum  elegans  (purplish- 
red),  Cestrum  fasciculatum  and  Ces- 
trurii  aurantiacum  (yellow),  all  natives 
of  Mexico. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  placed  in 
cold  frame,  in  soil  composed  of  half  sand  and  half  leaf-mold, 
in  September;  shade  from  the  sun  until  rooted. 

[83] 


Cestrum. 


Gardening    in    Californi 


CHOISYA  TERNATA. 


Choisya  ternata. 


One  of  our  bestfc  Winter- 
blooming  shrubs,  having  ternate 
leaves  and  white  sweet-scented 
flowers.  It  should  have  a  place 
even  in  the  smallest  collection, 
being  of  dwarf,  bushy  habit  and 
very  free-flowering.  It  grows  in 
any  good  garden  soil. 

Propagate  by  cuttings,  in 
cool  frame,  put  into  half  sand 
half  leaf-soil  in  early  May  or  as 
soon  as  the  blooming  season  is 
over,  or  in  August  after  the 
young  wood  is  half-ripe. 


CISTUS  (Rock  Rose). 


A  genus  of  elegant  free- 
flowering  small  shrubs  with 
a  large  handsome  flower 
resembling  a  single  rose. 
This  charming  genus  has  a 
large  number  of  species 
which  should  be  more  com- 
monly seen  in  our  gardens 
as  they  are  of  easy  culture 
and  require  little  water  for 
their  development.  Being 
natives  of  the  coast  of  the 

Mediterranean,  they  are  peculiarly  adapted  for  introduction  into 
California. 

[84] 


Cistus. 


Trees     and     Shrubs 


They  are  propagated  by  seeds  sown  under  glass  in  Spring 
(the  seeds  being  barely  covered  by  finely-sifted,  sandy  soil),  or 
by  cuttings  of  young  wood,  three  or  four  inches  long,  placed  in 
soil  composed  of  one-half  sand,  one-half  leaf-mold,  in  a  cold 
frame,  either  in  Spring  or  Fall;  as  soon  as  they  are  rooted,  pot 
them  into  three-inch  pots  in  soil  composed  of  two-thirds  leaf- 
soil  and  one-third  sand  with  the  addition  of  a  little  loam. 

CITRUS  AURANTIUM  (Orange). 

The  Orange  as  a  decorative  garden  tree  is  not  so  well  known 
as  the  Orange  grown  as  a  fruit  tree.  It  forms,  however,  most 
charming  effects  in  the  landscape  when  planted  either  in  group 
form  or  as  single  specimens  on  the  lawn,  especially  if  grown  in 
tree  form  with  a  stem  of  from  six  to  eight  feet  and  a  spread  of 
branch,  fifteen  or  more  feet  across,  covered  densely  with  its  great 
masses  of  bright  evergreen  foliage  and  its  beautiful,  fragrant, 
white  flowers  which  are  nearly  always  in  bloom.  It  also  is 
unexcelled  as  a  winter  garden  ornament  when  laden  with  its 
beautiful  golden  fruit.  There  are  many  highly  ornamental  spe- 
cies, including  Citrus  aurantium  (the  Sweet  Orange)  a  native  of 
Asia,  Citrus  decumana  (the  Shaddock)  with  fruit  from  six  to 
eight  inches  in  diameter,  Citrus  Japonica  which  makes  a  very 
pretty  bush,  Citrus  linita  (the  Lime),  Citrus  limonei  (Lemon), 
Citrus  nobilis  (Mandarin),  Citrus  trifoliata  (with  its  prickly 
stems  and  small  ornamental  fruit)  which  makes  a  handsome 
bush  and  is  also  a  good  hedge  plant,  and  Citrus  vulgaris  (Bitter 
Orange)  which  grows  to  the  height  of  forty  feet  and  is  a  hand- 
some tree. 

Propagate  by  seeds,  sown  one-quarter  of  an  inch  deep  under 
glass.  Transplant  the  seedlings,  when  three  inches  high,  into 
nursery  rows;  keep  them  in  the  nursery  until  they  are  from 
four  to  six  feet  high  and  then  plant  them  in  their  permanent 
quarters.  The  finer  varieties  may  be  increased  by  budding  on 
the  common  stock. 

[85] 


ardening    in 


C  a  1  i  f  o  r  n  i 


CLETHRA. 

Evergreen  and  deciduous  small  trees  or  shrubs,  valuable  on 
account  of  their  showy  spikes  of  fragrant  white  flowers  which 
appear  late  in  summer.  The  evergreen  species,  (such  as  Clethra 
arborea)  are  noted  for  the  laurel  effect  which  their  large,  glossy 
leaves  give.  They  thrive  under  our  California  conditions. 
Clethra  arborea  (a  native  of  Madeira)  is  perhaps  the  finest  of 
the  species.  Clethra  quercifolea  does  exceedingly  well  in  the 
warmer  sections  of  the  state. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  in  early  Spring  in  a  cool  green- 
house temperature  (covering  the  seeds  to  the  depth  of  an  eighth 
of  an  inch),  or  by  cuttings  in  sandy  leaf -mold  placed  in  a  cold 
frame  during  September. 

The  Clethra  flourishes  in  any  fair  garden  soil. 

CLIANTHUS. 


A  genus  of  about  three  spe- 
cies of  hardy  evergreen  shrubs, 
natives  of  New  Zealand  and 
Australia.  They  have  com- 
pound leaves  and  bear  great 
masses  of  brilliant  scarlet  pea- 
shaped  blossoms,  continuing  in 
bloom  for  several  months.  Cli- 
anthus  puniceus  is  the  hardiest 
of  the  genus  and  is  of  the  most 
easy  culture,  growing  freely  in 
any  soil  of  a  sandy  nature  either 
in  the  open  or  in  partial  shade. 
Propagate  by  cuttings  of 

half-ripe  wood  inserted  in  a  cold  frame  in  March  and  shaded  from 
hot  sunshine  until  rooted  when  they  should  be  potted  singly  in 
three-inch  pots  and  grown  on  until  required. 

[86] 


Clianthus  puniceus. 


Trees     and     Shrub 


COPROSMA  (New  Zealand  Holly). 

A  genus  of  handsomely-leaved  evergreen  shrubs  which  should 
be  in  every  collection.  It  grows  freely  in  any  situation  (even  in 
the  smoky  city  garden),  its  glossy  holly-green  leaves  refusing  to 
carry  any  dust.  It  contrasts  well  with  our  rough-leaved  kinds. 

The  genus  comprises  over  thirty  species,  mostly  natives  of 
New  Zealand  and  other  Pacific  Islands.  Coprosma  Baueriana  and 
its  varieties  are  the  best  for  cultivation  on  the  Pacific  Coast. 
Coprosma  picturata  and  Coprosma  variegata,  being  variegated 
forms  of  Coprosma  Baueriana,  are  very  attractive  shrubs. 

This  shrub  is  not  so  easily  propagated  as  most  of  our  other 
free-flowering  shrubs,  and  should  be  given  extra  care  in  being 
shaded  from  hot  sun.  In  making  the  cuttings,  slit  the  lower  end 
to  the  depth  of  three-quarters  of  an  inch ;  insert  in  a  soil  composed 
of  two-thirds  clear  sand  and  one-third  well-decomposed  leaf- 
mold.  Cuttings  should  be  planted  in  September  in  a  cold  frame 
and  not  overwatered.  As  soon  as  rooted,  they  should  be  potted 
off  in  thumb  pots,  put  back  into  the  cutting  frame  and  kept  close 
and  shaded  until  they  take  fresh  roots.  It  may  also  be  propa- 
gated by  seeds  sown  one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep  in  light  sandy  soil 
in  Spring. 

CORNUS  (Dogwood). 

The  Dogwood  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  of  our  ornamental 
deciduous  shrubs,  delighting  in  semi-shaded  moist  places,  pro- 
tected from  winds,  and  thriving  best  in  light  rich  soil.  One  of 
our  native  species,  Cornus  Nuttallii,  is  the  finest  of  the  genus, 
growing  in  favorable  situations  to  a  height  of  from  sixty  to  eighty 
feet,  pyramidal  in  habit,  and,  in  early  May  when  entirely  cov- 
ered with  its  great  white  bracts,  the  most  conspicuous  and  attrac- 
tive object  in  the  mountains  and  foothills.  In  the  Fall,  when 
laden  with  its  orange-colored  fruit,  it  gives  good  effects  in  the 

[87] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


shrubbery.  All  of  the  species  are  very  desirable,  especially  Cor- 
nus  sanguinea  and  Cornus  Florida,  these  making  good  under- 
growth even  in  the  darkest  shade. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  placed  in  sandy  soil  in  a  shaded  pro- 
tected border  out  of  doors  after  the  leaves  fall  in  Autumn.  They 
may  also  be  increased  by  division  of  the  roots  in  Winter  or  early 
Spring,  by  seeds  sown  in  Spring  and  by  layering  in  June.  Cover 
the  seeds  to  the  depth  of  one-eighth  of  an  inch. 

CORONILLA. 

Very  pretty  small-growing  ornamental  shrubs  and  perennial 
herbs  of  easy  culture  and  graceful  habit,  having  glaucous  and 
variegated  leaves.  They  are  well  adapted  for  planting  on  the 
margin  of  shrubbery  groups. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  placed  in  sand  in  a  cold  frame  early  in 
September;  leave  them  in  the  frame  all  Winter  and  pot  them 
off  in  Spring  in  pots  of  light  rich  soil;  grow  them  in  pots  for  a 
year  and  then  plant  them  in  their  permanent  situations. 

CORYNOCARPUS. 

Handsome  evergreen  trees,  native  of  New  Zealand,  with 
laurel-like  leaves  and  pyramidal  habit,  bearing  white  flowers  and 
plum-like  fruit.  No  evergreen  tree  or  shrub  gives  a  better  effect 
in  large  shrubberies  than  the  Corynocarpus  and  it  should  be 
found  in  even  the  most  choice  collection. 

Propagate,  at  any  time  from  June  to  September,  by  cuttings 
taken  from  half-ripe  wood;  place  them  in  a  cold  frame  shaded 
from  sun,  and,  when  rooted,  pot  them  in  three-inch  pots;  plant 
them  in  the  open  ground  the  following  Spring. 


[88] 


Trees     and     Shrubs 


Cotoneaster. 


COTONEASTER. 

A  genus  of  hardy  evergreen 
shrubs  with  small  boxwood-like 
leaves  and  small  white  flowers, 
bearing  abundant  crops  of  bright- 
red  berries  which  remain  conspicu- 
ous for  months.  It  begins  to  ripen 
in  California  in  July,  carrying  its 
fruit  until  the  following  Spring. 

Propagate  by  seeds,  cuttings  or 
layers  in  the  open  ground;  sow  the 
seeds  one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep 
in  March;  put  in  the  cuttings  or 
layers  any  time  during  the  Fall.  It 
is  of  easy  culture,  requiring  very 

little  attention  beyond  being  given  a  little  water  during  the 
Summer  months. 

CRATAEGUS  (Hawthorn). 

A  genus  of  hardy  shrubs  and  small  trees  with  single  leaves 
and  great  sprays  of  sweet-scented  pretty  flowers.  No  hardy 
flowering  tree  gives  finer  color  effects  in  the  landscape  than  the 
Hawthorn,  whether  planted  in  groups  or  grown  as  single  speci- 
mens. The  Hawthorn  prefers  a  good  stiff  loam  or  clayey  soil, 
and,  if  the  soil  is  kept  well  cultivated,  no  artificial  irrigation 
will  be  required  after  the  first  year. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  in  the  Fall,  or  as  soon  as  the  pulpy 
matter  can  be  rotted  from  the  seed;  cover  to  the  depth  of  half  an 
inch  and  transplant  the  following  Winter  into  nursery  rows. 
The  red-flowering  and  double  white  varieties  are  propagated  by 
budding  in  May  or  by  grafting  in  Winter  on  the  common  species 
in  the  usual  manner.  It  should  be  noted  that  while  some  seeds 
germinate  the  first  season,  others  may  not  germinate  until  the 

second  year. 

[89] 


Gardening    in    California 


CRYPTOMERIA. 

A  genus  comprising  only  two  species,  both  indigenous  to 
Japan.  They  prefer  a  rich,  moist,  well-sheltered  situation  and 
abundance  of  water  during  the  Summer  months,  when  they  form 
elegant  specimens  of  pyramidal  habit. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep  in  a 
cold  frame  in  Spring.  When  they  are  four  inches  high,  plant 
them  in  nursery  rows  (giving  room  as  required)  where  they  may 
remain  until  wanted. 


CUPRESSUS  (Cypress). 

The  Monterey  Cypress  is  a  uni- 
versal favorite,  nearly  every  garden 
having  a  representative  of  this  species. 
It  makes  an  excellent  wind-break  and 
stands  exposure  as  well  as,  if  not  bet- 
ter than,   any  tree  we  have  experi- 
mented with  whether  indigenous  or 
exotic.     It  is  of  vigorous  habit  and 
assumes  stately  proportions.     When 
full  grown  and  when  its  massive  flat 
crown    is   well-formed,    no   tree   has 
more  character  or  more  striking  indi- 
viduality.    It  grows  well  in  any  soil 
but  prefers  rich  well-drained  loam. 
Cupressus  Lawsoniana  is  of  more  elegant  form  than  the  pre- 
ceding, being  of  pyramidal  habit  and  graceful  outline.    Cupressus 
sempervirens   (the  Italian  Cypress)   is  of  a  tall  tapering  habit 
and  formal  appearance. 

The  Cypress  makes  an  excellent  hedge. 
All  of  the  species  are  easily  propagated  by  seeds  sown,  in  the 
early  Spring,  one-quarter  of  an  inch  deep,  in  boxes,  and  placed 

[90] 


Cupressus  Lawsoniana. 


Cupressus  Nutkatensis  —  the  Alaskan  Species. 


Trees    and     Shrubs 


in  a  cold  frame.  When  they  are  three  inches  high  transplant 
them  into  boxes  (placing  them  three  inches  apart)  and  after- 
wards plant  them  out  in  nursery  rows  about  one  foot  apart. 

CYDONIA  JAPONICA     (Japan  Quince). 

A  genus  of  dwarf  deciduous  flowering  shrubs,  opening  their 
flowers  as  early  as  the  middle  of  January.  There  are  several 
species  all  of  which  are  very  desirable,  some  having  scarlet 
flowers,  others  bright  pink,  and  one  species,  (Cydonia  Japonica 
alba)  bearing  flowers  of  the  purest  white.  They  are  all  an 
easily  grown,  free-flowering  class  of  plants  which  should  be 
seen  in  every  collection,  as  they  thrive  in  any  soil  and  require 
little  attention. 

They  are  propagated  by  layers  in  July,  or  by  cuttings  put  in 
the  open  ground  in  October. 

CYTISSUS    (Broom). 

A  genus  of  about  forty  species  of 
shrubs  bearing  pea-shaped  flowers  in 
great  abundance.  They  are  of  very 
easy  culture,  and,  without  irrigation, 
grow  freely  in  any  soil,  even  the 
poorest. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  one- 
quarter  of  an  inch  deep  in  the  open 
ground  or  in  a  cold  frame  in  early 
Spring.  When  the  seedlings  are  four 
inches  high,  transplant  them  into 
nursery  rows  and  grow  them  on  until 
required.  Cytissus  racemosus  and 
others  of  the  class  may  also  be  in- 
creased by  cuttings,  placed  in  a  cold  frame  in  October,  and 
shaded  from  sunshine  until  rooted,  when  they  should  be  potted 
singly  in  small  pots. 

[93] 


Broom. 


Gardening    in    California 


DAPHNE. 

A  genus  of  very  ornamental  evergreen  or  deciduous  shrubs, 
their  sweet-scented  flowers  and  compact  habit  of  growth  making 
them  desirable  for  planting  in  our  shrubberies. 

They  prefer  a  warm,  sheltered  situation,  away  from  harsh 
winds  and  hot  sunshine,  and  a  soft  brown  soil  with  perfect 
drainage. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  placed,  in  September,  in  a  cool  frame 
and  left  there  until  calloused.  They  should  then  be  placed  in 
a  gentle  bottom  heat  when  they  will  soon  make  root  and  be 
ready  for  potting  in  three-inch  pots;  give  them  root-room  as 
required. 


DATURA   (Cornucopia  Flower). 

Herbs,  shrubs  or  trees  with 
large  entire  tongue-shaped 
leaves,  bearing  trumpet-shaped 
flowers  sometimes  over  a  foot 
long.  The  flowers  are  of  various 
colors,  including  white,  orange 
and  red.  Some  varieties  are  very 
fragrant,  especially  at  night. 
They  grow  well  in  any  good 
garden  soil  with  ordinary  care. 
The  best  kinds  are  Datura 
sanguinea,  Datura  arborea,  Da- 
tura suaveolens  and  Datura 
carnigera. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  of  half-ripe  wood  placed  in  sandy 
soil  in  a  cold  frame  in  October;  as  soon  as  they  are  rooted,  plant 
them  in  pots,  and,  in  early  Spring,  plant  them  in  the  open  ground. 


Datura    suaveolens. 


94] 


Trees     and     Shrubs 


DEUTZIA. 

A  genus  of  hardy,  deciduous,  strong-growing  shrubs  of  easy 
culture,  which,  on  account  of  their  free-flowering  qualities  should 
have  a  place  in  every  garden  however  small.  They  thrive  in 
almost  any  soil,  and  well  repay  the  trouble  incurred  in  their 
cultivation. 

Deutzia  crenata  grows  to  a  height  of  about  ten  feet;  Deutzia 
gracilis  has  a  dwarf  compact  habit  and  should  be  planted  on  the 
margin  of  a  group  of  taller  shrubs,  where  it  will  give  a  fine  finish 
to  the  group. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  of  the  ripe  wood  placed  in  the  open 
ground  in  November;  when  they  are  rooted  run  them  into  nur- 
sery rows;  give  them  room  as  required. 

DlERVILLEA    OR   WEIGELIA. 

A  genus  of  hardy  ornamental  low-growing  deciduous  shrubs, 
mostly  natives  of  China  and  Japan.  No  shrubbery  is  complete 
without  a  collection  of  these  elegant  free-flowering  shrubs.  They 
grow  well  in  any  garden  soil  and  repay  the  attention  bestowed  on 
them.  They  bloom  in  early  Spring  and  continue  in  bloom  for 
a  good  length  of  time.  As  soon  as  the  plants  are  finished  bloom- 
ing, prune  the  previous  year's  growth  back  to  within  six  inches 
of  its  growth,  so  as  to  encourage  the  plants  to  throw  out  strong 
shoots,  the  best  flowers  always  being  found  on  the  growth  of  the 
previous  year. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  (made  of  the  previous  Summer's 
growth)  about  six  inches  long  placed  in  sandy  soil  in  the  open 
ground  in  November  or  as  soon  as  the  leaves  are  all  off.  In  the 
Spring,  as  soon  as  the  cuttings  are  well  rooted,  plant  them  in 
nursery  rows  for  a  year  when  they  may  be  transplanted  into 
their  place  in  the  shrubbery. 


[95] 


Gardening    in    California 


DIOSMA    (Breath  of  Heaven). 

A  genus  of  heath-like  graceful  shrubs  with  grass-like  leaves 
and  crowds  of  delicate  white  flowers.  On  account  of  its  ex- 
quisite fragrance  and  delicate  foliage  this  plant  is  much  used 
in  decorating  and  filling  vases.  It  delights  in  a  light,  sandy  soil 
and  plenty  of  water.  As  it  is  rather  a  dwarf  grower,  it  should 
be  planted  near  the  walks  or  on  the  edges  of  shrub-groups,  for 
if  planted  among  strong-growing  shrubs  it  is  apt  to  get  lost  or 
grown  over. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  placed  in  a  propagating  house  in  gentle 
heat  at  any  time  between  April  and  September;  after  they  are 
rooted,  pot  them  singly  in  thumb  pots,  giving  them  larger  pots 
as  required  and  using  leafy  sandy  soil. 

ECHIUM     (Viper's  bugloss). 


A  group  of  shrubby  or  herbaceous 
plants  with  large  tongue-shaped  leaves 
of  a  glaucous  color  thickly  covered  with 
fine  hairs.  They  bear  immense  spikes 
of  blue,  pink  or  white  flowers,  forming 
very  striking  objects  in  the  shrubbery, 
their  large  gray  leaves  effectively  con- 
trasting with  their  bright-blue  flowers. 
They  grow  well  in  any  good  garden 
soil. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  one- 
sixteenth  of  an  inch  deep  in  the  early 
Spring,  or  by  cuttings  placed  in  sand  in 
a  cold  frame  in  October  or  November; 

grow  them  in  pots  for  one  year  and  plant  them  in  the  shrubbery 

the  following  Spring. 


Echium. 


[96] 


Trees    and     Shrubs 


ELEAGNUS    (Wild  Olive). 

A  small  genus  of  evergreen  or  deciduous  shrubs  of  easy 
growth  and  attractive  appearance,  their  glaucous  downy  leaves 
giving  a  soft  effect  when  well  placed  in  the  landscape.  The 
flowers  are  inconspicuous,  their  chief  attraction  being  their  leaves 
and  fruit  and  also  their  graceful  habit  of  growth.  They  do  best 
in  light  sandy  soil. 

Propagate  by  seeds  or  cuttings  placed,  in  October,  in  the 
open  ground  in  sandy  soil.  Cover  the  seeds  to  the  depth  of  one- 
eighth  of  an  inch. 


ERICA   (Heath  Family). 

A  most  extensive  genus  comprising 
over  four  hundred  species,  all  hardy  in 
California,  most  of  them  being  natives  of 
the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  and  the  Austra- 
lian group.  They  ought  to  be  seen  in 
gardens  more  commonly  than  they  are,  as 
many  of  them  are  very  easily  grown  and 
blossom  in  Winter  and  early  Spring  when 
flowers  are  scarce.  They  are  among  the 
most  attractive  of  our  flowering  shrubs, 
and,  as  they  are  generally  slow-growing 
and  of  neat  habit,  are  well  adapted  for 
small  gardens.  All  the  care  necessary  is 
to  give  them  a  sandy  soil,  plenty  of  water, 

and  a  prune  back  immediately  after  flowering  so  as  to  encourage 
the  forming  of  young  growth  on  which  they  will  flower  the 
following  season. 

In  Europe  and  the  East  great  care  and  considerable  skill  are 
thought  necessary  to  grow  these  plants  successfully.  There  they 
must  be  grown  in  pots,  in  specially  prepared  soil,  in  greenhouses 

[971 


Erica  persoluta  alba. 


Gardening    in    Californi 


and  watered  carefully.  Even  with  the  best  of  care  however 
they  often  there  die  off  suddenly  or  are  attacked  by  mildew,  etc., 
and  thrown  into  poor  health,  whereas  here  they  seem  to  grow 
without  any  special  care,  giving  grand  results. 

The  best  for  every-day  culture  are  Erica  persoluta,  Erica 
gracilis,  Erica  hymalis,  Erica  melanthera,  Erica  Willmore- 
ana,  Erica  arborea,  Erica  ventricosa,  Erica  capitata,  Erica  hy- 
brida,  Erica  Mediterranea  and  their  varieties. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  placed  in  a  cool  frame  late  in  the  Fall, 
October  or  early  in  November  being  the  best  season;  shade  them 
from  bright  sunshine;  pot  them  off  as  soon  as  rooted,  in  thumb 
pots,  in  sandy,  leafy  soil. 

ERYTHRINA    (Coral  tfree). 

A  genus  of  plants  with  trifoliate  leaves  and  pea-shaped 
flowers  mostly  dark-red  in  color  (the  individual  flowers  being 
of  large  size  and  generally  in  large  clusters)  forming  very  strik- 
ing objects  in  the  garden  or  pleasure-ground.  They  delight  in 
good  heavy  loam  and  plenty  of  water  during  the  Summer  months, 
and  revel  in  our  hottest  sun.  They  do  well  nearly  all  over  the 
State  excepting  close  to  the  coast  where  the  cool  fogs  of  Summer 
are  not  agreeable  to  their  sun-loving  nature. 

The  tree  species,  Erythrina  Humei,  grows  to  the  height  of 
from  forty  to  sixty  feet.  It  is  a  native  of  South  Africa. 

Erythrina  indica  is  another  of  the  family  which  ought  to 
do  better  in  California  than  experiments  so  far  have  shown.  It 
grows  to  the  height  of  about  thirty  feet  and  is  a  free  bloomer, 
having  great  masses  of  pea-shaped,  brilliant  scarlet  flowers. 

These  have  several  varieties  which  should  be  placed  in  warm, 
sheltered  spots  in  our  gardens. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  in  early  Spring  one-eighth  of  an 
inch  deep  in  hot-bed;  plant  in  permanent  quarters  the  following 
May  or  early  June. 

[98] 


Trees     and     Shrubs 


ESCALLONIA. 

The  Escallonias  may  be 
classed  among  our  most 
useful  shrubs,  doing  well 
however  situated  either  as 
regards  soil  or  exposure. 
They  are  natives  of  the 
cooler  countries  of  South 
America,  principally  Chile 
and  Patagonia.  They  all 
are  evergreen  and  free- 
growing,  so  make  excellent 
hedges,  besides  being  very 

good  plants  for  heavy  grouping.  Another  good  quality  is  their 
habit  of  blooming  late  in  the  Fall  and  early  Winter,  when  color 
is  scarce,  the  Escallonia  Montevidensis  with  its  great  bundle  of 
terminal  white  blossoms  having  a  very  striking  effect  in  November 
and  December.  The  red-flowering  Escallonia  rubra  and  pink- 
flowering  Escallonia  rosea,  the  flowers  of  which  contrast  finely 
with  the  glossy  green  of  the  leaves,  are  much  admired  by  lovers 
of  fine  shrubs. 

There  are  about  thirty-five  species  of  this  interesting  family, 
all  of  them  hardy,  standing  well  the  strongest  winds  and  thriv- 
ing even  close  to  the  ocean  if  not  too  near  the  salt  spray.  They 
make  splendid  pillar  plants  for  the  terrace  or  formal  garden. 

They  stand  pruning  and  are  easily  transplanted  at  almost 
any  season.  All  the  preparation  necessary  is  to  cut  the  plant 
well  back,  pruning  off  the  small  limbs  and  leaves  so  that  only 
the  larger  branches  remain.  The  roots  should  be  dug  up  without 
any  soil  attached  and,  after  being  planted,  the  plant  should  be 
given  a  good  watering.  In  a  few  weeks  it  will  show  new  growth. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  put  in  sandy  leaf-mold  in  a  cold 
frame  in  October;  the  following  Spring  plant  them  out  in  nursery 
rows  until  large  enough  to  be  planted  in  their  permanent  quarters. 

[99] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


EUCALYPTUS  (Australian  Gum). 

This  genus  is  one  of  the  most  useful  of  our  introduced 
exotics.  True,  it  is  sometimes  found  to  be  a  nuisance, 
especially  when  the  common  Blue  Gum  has  been  planted  in  good 
soil  along  narrow  streets  and  its  roots  have  been  within  reach  of 
a  poorly  laid  sewer,  for  it  will  find  out  poor  work  more  quickly 
than  most  sewer  inspectors,  the  tiniest  crack  or  the  smallest  pin- 
hole  being  surely  discovered  by  the  roots  of  this  rampant  gross 
feeder.  Should  a  pin-hole  be  left  in  the  sewer  pipe,  the  Euca- 
lyptus quickly  enters  and  in  a  very  short  time  fills  the  pipe  so  full 
of  roots,  that  it  stops  up  the  entire  pipe,  sometimes  for  the  dis- 
tance of  a  hundred  feet.  This  is  not  the  situation  for  a  Eucalyptus 
of  the  globulus  variety,  but  the  tree  merits  a  place  in  the 
landscape  and  that  place  should  be  a  prominent  one.  In  an  out 
of  the  way  corner  which  cannot  be  used  for  any  other  crop,  or, 
on  some  high  knoll  where  shelter  is  needed  and  little  else  will 
grow,  Eucalyptus  globulus  (Blue  Gum)  can  be  planted  to  ad- 
vantage, but  there  are  many  other  species  which  may  be  intro- 
duced and  which  give  fine  effects  even  in  the  most  choice 
collections. 

For  instance  take  Eucalyptus  piperita :  when  grown  in  a  suit- 
able place  it  is  as  graceful  as  the  Birch;  and  no  Willow  has  a  finer 
drooping  effect  than  Eucalyptus  saligna  with  its  willow-shaped 
leaves;  or  again,  the  red-flowering  variety  (Eucalyptus  leucoxy- 
lon,  var.  macrocarpa),  when  laden  with  its  bright-pink,  myrtle- 
like  blossoms  has  a  most  striking  effect  in  the  landscape,  while 
the  scarlet-blooming  Eucalyptus  ficifolia  is  very  effective  even  in 
small  gardens  as  are  also  Eucalyptus  cornuta  (yellow  flowered), 
Eucalyptus  titragous  (crimson-flowered  and  a  dwarf  grower), 
and  Eucalyptus  Landsdowniana,  (also  a  dwarf  grower  with 
small  red  flowers  and  rather  broad  dark-green  leaves).  Still 
another  dwarf  grower  of  bushy  habit  is  the  Eucalyptus  pyra- 
formis  so  named  on  account  of  the  pea  shape  of  the  calyx;  this 


Eucalyptus  fid  folia. 


--  ^    < 


OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY 

OF 


Trees    and     Shrubs 


species  has  pink  flowers  and  is  said  to  grow  in  the  poorest  lands 
such  as  in  the  dryest  regions  of  South  Australia.  Eucalyptus 
corymbosa  and  its  varieties  give  graceful  foliage  effects  where 
room  can  be  spared  for  them.  Eucalyptus  viminalis  is  a  species 
which  is  almost  indispensable  where  trees  of  a  graceful  or  semi- 
drooping  habit  of  growth  are  desired.  Where  the  rainfall  is 
light  and  a  symmetrical  well-balanced  top  is  desired,  the  Eucalyp- 
tus corynocalyx  can  be  safely  recommended  as  it  has  been  proven 
beyond  a  doubt  to  survive  our  dryest  seasons,  even  when  most 
of  the  strong  vigorous  growers,  like  Eucalyptus  globulus  and 
Eucalyptus  amygdalina,  have  died  off  for  lack  of  sufficient 
moisture.  Eucalyptus  amygdalina  is  said  to  be  the  tallest- 
growing  tree  in  the  world,  attaining,  in  the  valleys  of  its  native 
country,  to  the  height  of  between  five  hundred  and  six  hundred 
feet ;  it  has  rather  dense  foliage  and  a  bright-green  leaf.  Eucalyp- 
tus sideroxylon  (the  iron  bark)  is  one  of  the  most  desirable  for 
planting  in  our  interior  valleys  as  it  stands  drought  well;  it  is 
best  known  by  its  dark-brown  iron-like  persistent  bark,  red  flowers 
and  light-gray  foliage;  planted  in  group-form  it  gives  a  most 
striking  effect  in  the  landscape. 

There  is  a  great  variety  of  this  family  of  Australian  trees, 
and,  where  space  can  be  secured  or  spared,  that  space  can  be 
profitably  used  for  planting  the  different  species  of  this  very 
ornamental  and  useful  genus. 

Propagation  is  by  seeds.  Sow  the  seeds  in  boxes  or  pots  filled 
with  light  sandy  soil,  in  March  or  early  in  April ;  cover  the  seeds 
lightly  with  sandy  leaf-mold,  and  water  thoroughly.  Place  in 
a  cold  frame  and  shade  lightly  during  hot  sunshine  until  the 
seeds  have  germinated;  as  soon  as  they  have  made  four  leaflets, 
remove  the  sash  from  the  frame  and  replace  it  with  a  lathed 
cover  to  protect  the  seedlings  from  strong  sunshine  and  also 
from  the  ravages  of  birds.  When  the  plants  are  two  inches  high, 
transplant  them  into  boxes  about  four  and  one-half  inches  deep 
filled  with  good  strong  loam,  planting  them  about  three  inches 


Gardening    in    California 


apart.  Return  them  to  a  situation  similar  to  the  one  from  which 
they  were  taken;  give  them  a  good  watering  and  keep  them 
shaded  during  strong  sunshine  for  a  few  days,  afterwards  gradu- 
ally exposing  them  to  the  open  air.  Plant  them,  in  March  or 
April,  where  they  are  to  remain. 

EUGENIA. 


The  Eugenias  belong  to  the 
Myrtle  family  and  are  very  de- 
sirable shrubs  or  small  trees, 
growing  to  the  height  of  from 
twenty-five  to  thirty  feet.  They 
have  a  handsome  pyramidal 
habit  of  growth,  their  myrtle- 
like  leaves  being  tinted  with 
pink  in  their  growing  state. 
They  give  a  very  good  effect  in 
the  shrubbery,  and,  when  cov- 
ered with  their  white  myrtle-like 
flowers,  or  later  with  their  red- 
dish globular-shaped  fruit,  make 

handsome  ornaments  in  our  grounds.     Eugenia  myrtifolia  and 

Eugenia   Smithiana    (or  Eugenia  latifolia   as   it   is  sometimes 

named)  are  the  best  varieties  for  this  coast. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  placed  in  sandy  soil  in  a  cold  frame, 

in  October,  or  by  seeds  sown  in  early  Spring,  also  in  a  cold  frame. 

Cover  the  seeds  to  the  depth  of  one-sixteenth  of  an  inch. 


Eugenia    latifolia. 


EUONYMUS  (Spindle  'free). 

A  genus  of  evergreen  or  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs,  natives 
of  Europe,  Asia,  Japan  and  the  United  States,  with  opposite 
leaves  and  small  inconspicuous  flowers.  All  are  hardy  in 

[104] 


Trees     and     Shrubs 


California  and  of  easy  growth,  standing  the  harsh  winds  of  the 
coast  counties  very  well  and  enduring  rough  treatment  of  every 
kind  better  than  most  of  our  common  shrubs  do.  Some  of  the 
variegated  kinds  are  considered  to  be  among  our  most  orna- 
mental shrubs. 

Euonymus  grandiflorus  grows  to  the  height  of  twenty  feet. 

Euonymus  Japonica  is  the  most  attractive  of  the  species 
being  smooth-leaved,  of  good  habit  and  carrying  no  dust,  with 
small  white  flowers,  and  is  also  very  handsome  in  the  Fall  and 
Winter  when  covered  with  its  bright-red  berries.  It  is  exceed- 
ingly effective  when  grouped  about  the  margins  of  the  lawn  or 
as  a  background  for  more  delicate  shrubs,  also  when  massed  with 
Laurel,  Pittosporum,  Veronica  and  others.  There  are  many 
varieties  of  this  useful  and  ornamental  shrub.  Euonymus 
Japonica  aurea,  Euonymus  Japonica  argentea  and  Euonymus 
Japonica  Due  de  Anjou  are  all  very  desirable. 

Euonymus  latifolia,  the  broad-leaved  Euonymus,  is  another 
of  the  type  which  should  be  in  every  collection  as  should  also 
be  its  varieties  with  their  gold  or  silver  variegated  leaves. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  of  the  last  season's  growth  inserted, 
in  October,  in  sandy  soil,  or  by  seeds  sown  one-eighth  of  an  inch 
deep  in  early  Spring;  in  either  case  place  in  a  cold  frame. 

EXOCHORDIA. 

This  shrub  is  a  native  of  North  China,  belonging  to  the 
Spireas,  and  is  sometimes  named  Spirea  grandiflora.  Its  habit 
of  growth  resembles  the  Philadelphus  and  it  should  group  well 
with  the  members  of  that  family.  It  opens  its  handsome  white 
clusters  early  in  June,  remaining  in  flower  about  one  month. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  of  the  ripe  wood  placed  in  sandy  soil 
in  the  open  border  in  November,  or  by  suckers  formed  at  the  base 
of  the  plants  in  Winter,  or  by  layers  in  the  Fall,  or  by  seeds  sown 
one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep  in  the  open  ground  as  soon  as  ripe  in 
the  Fall. 

[105] 


Gardening    in    California 


FABIANA. 

An  evergreen  heath-like  shrub  of 
a  stiff,  erect  habit  of  growth  and  bear- 
ing a  profusion  of  small  funnel- 
shaped  flowers.  It  should  be  pruned 
back  within  a  few  inches  of  the  pre- 
vious year's  growth  as  soon  as  the 
flowering  season  is  over,  this  treat- 
ment insuring  for  the  plant  a  much 
better  shape  than  if  it  were  allowed 
to  take  its  natural  habit  of  growth. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  of  half-ripe 
wood  placed  in  a  cold  frame  in  Sep- 
pabjana  tember  or  early  in  October  or  in  early 

Spring  before  growth  commences. 

FAGUS  SYLVATICA  (Beech). 

The  Beech  in  the  Eastern  States  and  in  Europe  is  a  noble 
symmetrical  tree  requiring  very  little  attention  and  growing  in 
almost  any  soil  which  is  well  drained.  Here  in  California  it  re- 
quires good  shelter  and  a  fairly  good  soil,  well  drained.  It  must 
have  abundant  moisture,  seldom  doing  well  excepting  on  the 
border  of  the  lawn  or  close  to  a  pond  or  water  course. 

There  are  several  varieties,  the  purple-leaved  variety  appear- 
ing to  be  the  best  adapted  to  this  climate.  It  is  not  advisable 
to  attempt  propagation  in  this  State. 

FATSIA. 

A  genus  of  handsomely  leaved  plants  belonging  to  the  Aralia 
family,  a  name  by  which  this  genus  is  often  known.  They  like 
a  well-sheltered  situation  protected  from  strong  winds,  where, 
if  given  good  soil  and  plenty  of  moisture,  they  form  handsome 

[  io61 


Ficus  elastica. 


OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY 

OF 


Trees     and     Shrubs 


objects,  their  large  palmated  shining  green  leaves  creating  a  fine 
tropical  effect.  Fatsia  papyrifera  produces  the  rice  paper  used 
in  oriental  countries  for  making  artificial  flowers. 

Fatsia  Japonica  and  its  variegated  varieties  are  also  very 
useful  in  tropical  gardening,  but  as  they  are  of  slower  growth  and 
of  dwarf  habit  should  be  planted  near  the  margins  of  groups. 

Another  variety,  Fatsia  horrida,  a  native  of  the  State  of 
Washington,  is  of  more  spreading  habit  and  has  large  palmated 
leaves  three  or  more  feet  in  width.  Its  stem  is  often  too  weak 
to  sustain  its  large,  heavy  leaves  and  should  be  supported  by 
a  strong  stake  until  its  fourth  or  fifth  year.  This  variety  is 
thickly  covered  with  stout  sharp  spines. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  of  the  root,  an  inch  or  more  in  length, 
placed  in  heat  in  early  Spring,  or  by  suckers  growing  from  the 
base  of  the  crown  in  Winter  or  early  Spring. 

Ficus  (Rubber  'free). 

The  fig  family  contains  many  highly  ornamental  evergreen 
and  deciduous  trees.  Ficus  elastica  is  a  fine  tree  for  the  open 
ground  and  as  a  pot  plant  for  the  decoration  of  the  parlor  or 
sitting  room,  while,  as  a  veranda  plant,  few  are  more  hardy  or 
give  better  satisfaction,  its  long  leathery  smooth  shiny  green 
leaves  and  upright  stately  habit  making  it  a  generally  favorite 
plant  for  garden  and  indoor  decoration.  It  grows  well  in  any 
good  garden  soil  provided  it  is  given  a  sheltered  spot  and  plenty 
of  water. 

Some  fine  specimens  of  Ficus  are  to  be  seen  in  Southern 
California  and  also  in  San  Francisco,  Oakland,  San  Rafael,  and 
San  Mateo,  a  number  of  these  being  over  forty  feet  high  and 
generally  enjoying  vigorous  health. 

Propagate,  in  the  early  Spring,  by  cuttings  taken  from  plants 
grown  under  glass;  insert  them  in  sandy  soil  in  strong  moist 
heat.  If  the  cuttings  are  taken  from  the  open  ground,  place  them 

[109] 


Gardening    in    California 


in  a  cold  frame  until  they  callous ;  they  should  then  be  taken  from 
the  cold  frame  and  put  in  a  house  with  a  temperature  of  sixty 
degrees  Fahrenheit  where  they  will  soon  root. 

FRAXINUS  (Ash). 

The  Ash  is  one  of  our  favorite  ornamental  trees.  It  has  long 
compound  leaves  and  inconspicuous  flowers;  it  loves  good  deep 
moist  soil  and  a  sheltered  situation,  the  bank  of  a  creek  being  its 


Fraxinus  excelsior. 

favorite  haunt.     The  weeping  varieties  of  Fraxinus  excelsior 
make  very  handsome  specimens  for  the  lawn. 

In  the  Fall,  propagate  by  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe  one- 
quarter  of  an  inch  deep  in  a  sandy  soil.  When  the  young  plants, 
in  the  early  Spring,  are  from  six  to  twelve  inches  high,  plant 
them  in  nursery  rows  about  six  inches  apart  in  the  rows  and  with 
two  feet  between  the  rows.  Replant  them  in  their  permanent 
quarters  when  they  are  from  four  to  six  feet  in  height. 

[no] 


Trees    and     Shrubs 


The  weeping  varieties  are  propagated  by  grafting  on  the 
common  Ash  in  early  Spring.  To  get  good  specimens  they  should 
be  grafted  on  strong  young  saplings  at  a  height  of  from  twelve 
to  twenty  feet,  thus  having  plenty  of  height  so  that  the  pendulous 
limbs  may  easily  be  spread  out  the  required  arbor  width. 

GARDENIA. 

The  Gardenia  is  a  genus  com- 
prising many  species,  most  of 
which  are  natives  of  Asia.  All 
are  evergreen  small  shrubs  with 
sweet-scented  white  or  yellow 
flowers,  the  single  varieties  hav- 
ing funnel-shaped  flowers.  The 
double-flowering  varieties  are, 
however,  the  most  desirable, 
some  of  them  being  as  double 
as  a  Camellia  and  bearing  flowers 
which  are  four  inches  in 
diameter. 

The    Gardenias    should    be 

planted  in  every  garden,  however  small,  as  they  form  compact 
little  bushes  while  their  beautiful  fragrant  white  flowers  make 
a  handsome  decoration.  The  climate  of  Oakland  and  of  the 
South  as  far  as  San  Diego  suits  them  admirably.  They  delight 
in  a  warm  sheltered  situation  and  plenty  of  water  at  the  roots 
during  Summer.  Gardenia  Fortunea  and  Gardenia  radicans 
major  are  the  varieties  best  suited  to  the  conditions  of  California. 
Any  good  light  loam,  if  well  drained,  will  suffice  them  for  soil 
purposes. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  of  half-ripe  wood  placed  in  a  cold 
frame,  in  August,  in  soil  composed  of  half  well-decomposed  leaf- 
mold  and  half  silver-sand.  After  putting  in  the  cuttings,  the 
frame  should,  for  two  weeks,  be  shaded  during  sunshine. 

[in] 


Gardenia. 


Gardening    in    Californi 


GENISTA. 

A  large  genus  of  free-flowering  shrubs  of  compact,  bushy 
habit,  having  flowers  pea-shaped  and  mostly  yellow  in  color, 
growing  freely  in  any  garden  soil,  (preferably  light  and  sandy) 
and  requiring  no  artificial  irrigation  after  the  first  year. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  in  Spring,  one-quarter  of  an  inch 
deep  in  the  open  ground,  or  in  boxes  in  cold  frame;  when  the 
seedlings  are  from  four  to  six  inches  high,  prick  them  out  in 
boxes  or  in  the  open  ground.  Plant  them  in  permanent  quarters 
when  they  are  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  high;  water  them 
during  the  first  year  after  planting.  All  are  worthy  a  place  in 
the  pleasure-ground. 

GINKGO  (Maidenhair  'free'). 

The  Maidenhair  tree  is  a  native  of  North  China  and  is  named 
Maidenhair  tree  from  the  form  of  its  leaflets,  these  being  shaped 
like  the  leaflets  of  the  Adiantum  fern.  It  has  an  upright  open 
habit  and  has  a  distinctly  handsome  appearance  in  any  land- 
scape while  it  also  makes  a  good  street  tree. 

There  are  several  handsome  varieties  including  the  deeply- 
cut  leaved  Ginkgo  biloba  laciniata  and  a  weeping  form,  Ginkgo 
biloba  pendula. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  as  soon  as  ripe,  one-quarter  of  an 
inch  deep  in  the  open  ground.  Plant  them  in  permanent  site, 
when  they  are  from  six  to  ten  feet  high,  in  good  deep  well-drained 
soil. 

GLEDITCHIA  (Honey  Locust). 

A  handsome  spreading  tree  with  pinnate  and  tripinnate 
leaves  on  the  same  plant,  deciduous,  light-green  in  color  and  of 
graceful  habit,  the  branches  being  crowded  (especially  on  the 
lower  limbs)  with  strong  sharp  spines.  Its  seeds  are  in  long 
fleshy  pods  about  two  inches  in  width  by  fifteen  inches  in  length, 

[112] 


Trees     and     Shrubs 


each  pod  containing  a  dozen  seeds.  The  pulpy  portion  of  the 
pod  is  sweet  when  fresh,  hence  the  name  "Honey  Locust."  It 
is  a  very  desirable  tree,  growing  in  any  ordinary  good  soil,  and 
should  make  a  good  street  tree,  as,  on  account  of  its  spine-  covered 
branches,  boys  would  fight  shy  of  climbing  its  trunk. 

There  are  several  species  of  the  genus  all  worthy  of  a  place 
in  the  pleasure-ground.  The  Japanese  and  its  varieties  purpurea 
and  coccinea,  the  Chinese,  the  water  locust  (Gleditchia  aquatica) 
and  several  other  kinds  are  all  very  desirable. 

Propagate,  by  seeds,  in  January;  as  the  shells  of  the  seeds 
are  exceedingly  hard,  soak  them  in  hot  water  for  a  few  hours 
before  sowing.  Plant  the  seeds  about  an  inch  deep  in  the  open 
ground ;  leave  them  in  the  seed-bed  for  one  year  when  they  should 
be  planted  in  nursery  rows.  Plant  them  in  permanent  quarters 
when  they  are  from  six  to  fifteen  feet  high. 

GREVILLEA. 

A  genus  of  elegant  trees  and  shrubs  mostly  natives  of  the 
Australian  group,  many  of  the  species  having  leaves  as  beauti- 
fully cut  as  a  fern.  According  to  Eastern  and  European  authori- 
ties they  grow  only  five  or  six  feet  high,  whereas  here  in  Cali- 
fornia they  reach  a  height  of  from  forty  to  fifty  feet  with  a 
diameter  of  stem  of  over  a  foot.  Grevillea  robusta,  the  most 
commonly  grown  species,  is  very  ornamental,  and  when  in  bloom 
is  a  striking  object  in  the  landscape  with  its  great  trusses  of 
orange-red  flowers  set  among  its  fern-like  foliage.  It  grows  freely 
in  any  ordinary  good  soil  and  requires  very  little  water.  Grevillea 
fasciculata,  Grevillea  juniperini,  Grevillea  Thelemanniana, 
Grevillea  saligna,  the  scarlet-blooming  Grevillea  punicea,  and 
the  purple-flowering  Grevillea  vestita  should  be  seen  in  our  gar- 
dens more  frequently  than  they  are  and  well  repay  any  care  and 
attention  bestowed  upon  them. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  in  Spring,  one-quarter  of  an  inch 


Gardening    in    California 


deep  in  sandy  soil  in  a  warm  greenhouse,  or  by  cuttings  planted, 
in  September,  in  a  cool  frame  shaded  from  strong  sunshine ;  grow 
them  in  pots  until  they  are  required  for  planting  in  the  open 
ground. 

GYMNOCLADUS   (Kentucky  Coffee  'free). 

A  lofty  tree,  native  of  the  Eastern  States  from  Kentucky  to 
Canada,  receiving  its  name  from  the  seeds  being  used  by  early 
settlers  as  a  substitute  for  coffee. 

This  tree  is  a  favorite  shade  tree  both  in  the  East  and  in 
Europe  and  should  thrive  better  here  than  it  seems  to  have  done 
in  many  places.  It  requires  a  shady  sheltered  situation  and  a 
soft  moist  soil. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  one-quarter  of  an  inch  deep  in  the 
open  ground  as  soon  as  ripe  in  the  Fall. 

HAKEA. 

A  large  Australian  genus  comprising  many  species  with 
needle-like  foliage  and  bottle-brush  flowers.  A  few  assume  tree 
form  but  most  of  them  are  low-growing  shrubs.  All  are  attractive 
when  in  bloom,  but,  on  account  of  their  hard,  needle-like  leaves 
and  persistent  seed  vessels,  are  not  very  desirable  except  in  large 
collections. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  one-sixteenth  of  an  inch  deep,  in 
heat,  in  early  Spring,  or  by  cuttings  of  the  ripe  wood  placed  in  a 
cold  frame  in  September  and  potted  as  growth  requires;  keep 
them  in  pots  until  required  for  planting  in  permanent  situations. 

HALESIA. 

A  genus  of  pretty  shrubs  containing  half  a  dozen  species, 
natives  of  the  Eastern  States  and  Japan  and  one  from  China. 
The  Japanese  Halesia  hespida  does  especially  well,  growing 
freely  and  blooming  abundantly,  its  clusters  of  pure  white 

[H4] 


Trees     and     Shrubs 


snowdrop-like  flowers  together  with  its  semi-pendulous  habit  of 
growth  making  it  a  good  addition  to  the  shrubbery.  The  Hale- 
sias  delight  in  a  light  rich  sandy  soil  and  a  sheltered  situation. 

Propagate  by  layers  in  the  open  ground,  and  also  by  cuttings 
of  the  roots  placed  in  a  cold  frame  in  September. 

HYDRANGEA. 

Highly  decorative,  evergreen  and  deciduous  shrubs.  Hydran- 
gea Hortensia,  the  most  easily  grown  of  any  of  the  species,  is  a 
universal  favorite,  flowering,  as  it  often  does,  ten  months  of  the 
year,  its  handsome  foliage  and  great  trusses  of  pink,  white  or 
purple  sterile  flowers  giving  a  fine  effect.  It  does  best  in  a  semi- 
shaded  situation  in  light  sandy  moist  soil.  If  extra  large  panicles 
of  flowers  are  desired,  cut  the  shoots  back  to  within  a  foot  of  the 
ground  and  thin  the  remainder  of  the  flower  stems  to  not  over 
six;  manure  them  heavily  and  water  them  freely;  the  result  will 
be  enormously  large  heads  requiring  stout  stakes  to  support  them. 
It  also  makes  an  excellent  vase  plant  for  the  porch  or  veranda, 
the  shade  and  shelter  of  the  veranda  being  a  very  suitable  light 
for  its  development. 

Hydrangea  paniculata  is  a  valuable  shrubby  species  for  the 
decorating  of  the  shrubbery,  having  smaller  leaves  than  the  pre- 
ceding and  panicles  also  smaller  and  of  a  more  pointed  shape. 
It  requires  a  sunny  warm  situation  and  all  the  light  possible. 

There  are  many  varieties  of  the  Hortensia,  notably  Dr.  Hogg, 
with  pure  white  flowers,  and  Hortensia  Japonica  with  blue 
flowers.  Some  have  variegated  foliage. 

All  are  easily  propagated  by  ordinary  cuttings  placed  in  sandy 
soil  in  a  cool  frame  in  October. 

HYMENOSPORUM  FLAVUM. 

This  handsome  evergreen  tree  is  a  native  of  Australia,  has 
smooth  glossy  bright,  light-green  leaves  and  bears  masses  of 


Gardening    in    Californi 


tubular-shaped  yellow  flowers  which  have  a  strong  sweet  odor 
scenting  the  atmosphere  for  an  area  of  a  hundred  yards.  It  grows 
freely  in  any  good  garden  soil  and  should  be  used  extensively  in 
planting  large  grounds. 

Propagation  is  by  cuttings  placed  in  a  cold  frame,  during 
October,  in  light  sandy  leaf-mold.  It  may  also  be  propagated 
by  seeds  sown  in  Spring  in  a  frame,  the  seeds  to  be  covered  to  the 
depth  of  a  quarter  of  an  inch. 

HYPERICUM. 

A  genus  of  hardy,  low- 
growing  shrubs  generally 
with  yellow  flowers,  mostly 
natives  of  Southern  Europe 
and  the  United  States.  All 
are  of  easy  culture,  growing 
freely  in  any  good  garden 
soil.  Hypericum  delights 
in  a  shady  nook  under  the 
shelter  of  tall  shrubs  for 
which  it  makes  an  excellent 
undergrowth  or  carpet, 

thickly  covering  the  surface  of  the  ground  with  its  foliage  and 
bright-yellow  flowers.  There  are  many  fine  species,  such  as 
H.  Moserianum,  H.  Androsianum,  H.  patulum,  etc.,  well  de- 
serving a  place  in  the  shrubbery. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  placed  in  a  cold  frame  in  Autumn; 
shade  them  for  the  first  few  days,  and,  when  they  are  rooted, 
plant  them  in  nursery  rows  until  wanted. 

ILEX  (Holly). 

A  genus  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  species,  evergreen  and  de- 
ciduous. It  is  highly  ornamental,  its  stately  habit  of  growth 

[116] 


Hypericum. 


Trees     and     Shrubs 


and  its  bright  glossy  green,  undulate,  prickly  leaves  making  it 
one  of  the  most  popular  of  shrubs.  When  covered  with  a  heavy 
crop  of  its  bright  crimson  berries,  it  is  exceedingly  effective  in 
the  garden  from  November  to  early  Spring. 

There  are  many  varieties  of  the  different  species  which  are 
highly  ornamental ;  some  of  them,  with  variegated  leaves,  should 
be  in  every  collection  however  small.  The  Holly  stands  pruning 
into  almost  any  shape  and  makes  an  excellent  hedge  though  of 
slow  growth,  it  taking  seven  or  eight  years  to  grow  a  holly  hedge 
five  feet  in  height,  but  from  its  first  appearance  above  ground  it 
is  pleasing  and  should  be  more  frequently  used  for  this  purpose. 

The  Holly  delights  in  a  semi-shaded  spot  in  a  sheltered  place, 
away  from  harsh  winds  and  strong  sunshine,  and  loves  moisture 
at  the  root  during  the  growing  season. 

Ilex  opaca,  the  Southern  Holly,  ought  to  be  seen  more  com- 
monly than  it  is,  and  should  stand  our  dry  Summers  much  better 
than  the  European  or  Japanese  species. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  in  the  open  ground.  As  soon  as  the 
seeds  are  ripe,  place  them  in  wet  sand  for  the  Winter,  and,  when 
the  fleshy  pulp  is  completely  rotted,  sow  them  in  drills  or  beds 
and  cover  them  with  one-half  inch  of  light  soil ;  shade  the  young 
seedlings  with  branches  for  the  first  year;  when  the  seedlings 
are  four  inches  high,  transplant  them  into  nursery  rows  one 
foot  apart;  transplant  them  at  least  every  two  years  until 
wanted.  The  variegated  varieties  can  be  propagated  only  by 
grafting.  This  should  be  done  in  early  Spring  before  growth 
commences,  using  seedlings  of  the  common  Holly  as  a  stock. 

INDIGOFERA. 

A  genus  of  leguminous  shrubs  and  herbs  with  purple,  rose 
or  white  flowers,  natives  of  Australia  and  the  United  States  and 
at  least  one  species  indigenous  to  California.  They  grow  in 
sandy  garden  soil. 


Gardening    in    California 


To  get  the  best  results,  prune  them  back,  in  February,  rather 
severely  so  as  to  encourage  the  forming  of  young  wood,  on 
which  the  finest  flowers  are  produced.  Of  the  many  species,  aus- 
tralis,  decora  and  tinctoria  will  be  found  the  best  for  the  Coast. 

Propagate,  in  Spring,  by  seeds  or  cuttings.  Cover  the  seeds 
to  the  depth  of  one-sixteenth  of  an  inch. 


IOCHROMA. 

A  small  genus  containing  about 
fifteen  species  of  tall  shrubs  with  slender 
stems,  having  opposite  entire  leaves  and 
long  tubular-shaped  flowers  growing  in 
pendulous  bunches  of  ten  or  a  dozen. 
Flowering  late  in  the  Fall,  they  make 
a  welcome  addition  to  our  collection  of 
flowering  shrubs.  The  best  proven  spe- 
cies are  lochroma  grandiflora  from 
Peru,  lochroma  lanceolata  a  native  of 
Chile  and  lochroma  tubulosa  from  Cen- 
tral America.  They  should  be  grown 

lochroma  tubulosa.  in  a  sheltered  situation  and  given  plenty 

of  manure  and  water. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  in  early  Fall;  shade  from  direct  sun. 


ITEA. 

Itea  Virginica  is  the  only  species  of  this  genus  widely  grown 
in  California.  There  are  at  least  four  other  species  which  would 
make  worthy  additions  to  any  shrubbery.  As  most  of  them  flower 
late  in  the  Summer,  a  season  of  the  year  when  few  shrubs  are  in 
bloom,  they  should  be  seen  in  our  gardens  more  commonly  than 
they  are. 

[118] 


Trees     and     Shrubs 


The  Iteas  thrive  best  in  a  moist  sheltered  situation  in  light 
sandy  loam. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep  in 
Spring,  or  by  suckers  taken,  in  Winter,  from  the  base  of  old  estab- 
lished plants  or  by  layers  in  July. 

JACARANDIA. 

This  beautiful  tree,  which  gives  such  splendid  effects  in  the 
warmer  portions  of  this  State,  is  a  native  of  Brazil  and  should,  to 
do  well,  be  given  generous  treatment  and  a  warm  situation  away 
from  strong  winds.  It  grows  well  in  any  garden  soil  which  is 
not  too  stiff  and  heavy. 

The  Jacarandia  is  propagated  by  means  of  cuttings  placed 
in  a  cold  frame,  during  August,  in  soil  composed  of  one-half  sand 
and  one-half  leaf-mold.  The  cuttings  should  be  shaded  during 
strong  sunshine  until  they  form  roots,  and,  when  rooted,  they 
should  be  planted  in  small  pots  and  afterwards  given  larger  pots 
as  required. 

JuGLANS. 

The  Walnut  and  Butternut  belong  to  this  genus,  both  being 
noble  park  trees  forming  massive  straight  trunks  and  wide-spread- 
ing branches,  while  their  handsome,  pinnate,  glossy  leaves  add 
much  to  their  attractive  appearance.  There  are  several  species 
including  Juglans  regia  (the  English  Walnut),  Juglans  cinerea 
(Butternut),  Juglans  nigre  (the  Eastern  Black  Walnut),  Jug- 
lans California  and  the  Japanese  species,  Juglans  Seiboldiana. 
All  form  grand  park  trees  requiring  considerable  space  for  their 
proper  growth  and  development  as  well  as  deep  well-drained 
soil  and  sheltered  situations. 

Propagate  by  seeds  planted,  in  Winter  or  early  Spring,  one 
inch  deep  in  nursery  rows.  Transplant  the  seedlings  to  their 
permanent  quarters  when  they  are  not  more  than  two  years  old. 


G 


ardening    in 


C  a  1  i  f  o  r  n  i 


JUNIPERUS  (Juniper). 


Juniperus  Chinensis. 


Ornamental  evergreen  trees  or 
shrubs  with  needle  or  scale-like  leaves 
set  thickly  on  the  stems  or  branches, 
the  flowers  being  inconspicuous  and 
the  fruit  a  small  cone-like  berry.  All 
are  perfectly  hardy  in  California, 
being  mostly  natives  of  temperate 
climates.  The  genus  contains  species 
with  low-spreading  habit  of  growth, 
well  adapted  for  covering  rocky 
ledges  or  forming  groundwork  for 
hiding  bare  ground  under  large  trees; 
some  having  a  stiff  pyramidal  habit 
are  much  used  in -formal  gardening, 
while  others  make  fine  single  specimens  on  the  lawn  or  planted 
in  groups  about  large  pleasure-grounds. 

The  best  of  the  species  with  bushy  habit  are  Juniperus  Chin- 
ensis, Juniperus  communis,  Juniperus  California,  Juniperus 
Suecica,  Juniperus  Virginiana,  Juniperus  Bermudiana,  and 
Juniperus  Fortunis.  There  are  also  many  varieties  of  each  of  the 
species,  a  number  of  which  are  very  attractive.  The  best  of  the 
creeping  species  are  Juniperus  sabina,  Juniperus  procumbens  and 
their  varieties,  many  of  which  have  variegated  leaves. 

Propagate,  in  October,  by  cuttings  in  sandy  soil  in  a  cold 
frame;  when  they  are  rooted  in  Spring  transplant  them  about 
two  inches  apart  into  boxes  and  give  them  the  room  their  growth 
requires.  They  may  also  be  propagated  by  seeds  sown  one  six- 
teenth of  an  inch  deep  in  the  open  ground  in  Spring,  the  seeds 
preferring  a  shady  situation. 


120 


Trees     and     Shrubs 


KERRIA. 

Slender-branched  deciduous  twiggy  shrubs  with  bright  light- 
green  leaves  and  bright-yellow  flowers.  Being  among  our  earli- 
est Spring-flowering  shrubs  they  are  much  in  demand  and  should 
be  seen  in  every  garden  however  small.  The  double-flowering 
variety  has  the  prettier  flowers,  but  the  single-flowered  is  the 
more  elegant  in  habit  and  keeps  in  flower  for  a  much  longer 
period  than  the  double-flowering  variety. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  in  the  Fall  or  by  division  of  the  roots 
in  early  Spring. 

KOELREUTERIA  PANICULATA. 

A  small  handsome  deciduous  tree  from  north  China,  with  a 
spreading,  irregular  habit  of  growth.  It  thrives  best  in  good  soil 
and  a  sheltered  situation  where  its  long  panicles  of  yellow  blos- 
soms are  very  attractive. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  placed  in  a  cold  frame  in  early  Fall. 

LABURNUM  (Golden  Chain). 

Ornamental  shrubs  or  small  trees  with  trifoliate  leaves  and 
pendulous  racemes  of  pea-shaped  flowers.  They  are  all  highly 
ornamental  and  free-flowering  and  grow  in  any  garden  soil,  but 
in  sunny  California  seem  to  desire  a  shady  situation.  Like  many 
deciduous  trees  they  are  liable  to  be  attacked  by  the  grey  fungus 
which  has  a  tendency  to  harden  and  tighten  the  bark;  when 
this  is  the  case,  spray  them  in  Winter  with  lye  mixture. 

The  following  are  the  best  varieties  of  this  very  beautiful 
Spring-flowering  tree: — Laburnum  vulgare,  Laburnum  vulgare 
aureum  (golden-yellow  leaves),  Laburnum  vulgare  involutum, 
Laburnum  vulgare  quercifolium  and  Laburnum  vulgare  Water- 
sii.  A  species  with  purple  flowers  named  Laburnum  Adami,  is 
also  well  worthy  of  a  place  in  any  collection. 

[121] 


Gardening    in    California 


Propagate  by  seeds  sown  one  quarter  of  an  inch  deep  in  the 
open  ground  in  early  Spring;  leave  them  in  the  seed-bed  one 
year  and  then  transplant  them  to  nursery  rows  where  they  should 
remain  until  large  enough  to  be  planted  out. 


LAGERSTROEMERIA  (Crepe  Myrtle). 

A  strong-growing  free-flowering  deciduous  shrub  producing 
an  abundance  of  soft- fringed  flowers  during  the  Summer  months. 
The  Crepe  Myrtle  delights  in  a  light  rich  soil  and  a  warm 
sunny  situation,  the  climate  of  San  Francisco  being  too  cold  for 
this  most  beautiful  shrub,  so  it  is  not  advisable  to  plant  it  in 
that  neighborhood,  but  in  the  interior  of  the  State  and  in  south- 
ern counties  it  should  be  in  every  yard. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  in  the  early  Fall;  grow  them  in  pots 
until  they  are  ready  to  be  planted  out. 

LANTANA. 


A  large  genus  of  evergreen 
and  deciduous  shrubs  belonging 
to  the  Verbena  family.  Grow- 
ing freely  in  any  garden  soil  and 
of  a  rambling  habit  of  growth, 
it  is  well  adapted  for  forming 
undergrowth  for  filling  in  open 
spaces  between  upright  grow- 
ing shrubs  or  for  forming  thick- 
ets under  deciduous  trees, 

It  also  is  very  useful  as  a 
covering  for  steep  banks  where 
few  plants  of  a  shrubby  charac- 
It  requires  very  little  artificial  watering. 


Lantana. 

ter  are  successful. 


Propagate  by  cuttings  in  October. 

[  122] 


Trees    and     Shrubs 


LASIANDRA  (Pleroma). 


The  Lasiandra  is  another  of 
the  Brazilian  introductions 
which  has  surprised  many  culti- 
vators by  doing  so  well  out  of 
doors  in  our  State.  In  Europe 
and  in  the  Eastern  states,  it  is 
treated  as  a  hothouse  plant  and 
given  temperature  strictly  tropi- 
cal, but  here  in  California  it 
grows  well  and  flowers  splen- 
didly, blooming  in  the  open  air 
even  in  San  Francisco  from  De- 
cember until  June.  It  requires 
a  sheltered  situation  and  a  light 
sandy  soil. 

There  are  many  varieties  of  this  beautiful  shrub  but  Lasi- 
andra macrantha  will  be  found  the  best  adapted  for  growing  in 
this  State. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  placed,  in  July  or  August,  in  a  cold 
frame  in  soil  composed  of  sand  and  leaf-mold  in  equal  pro- 
portions. 


Lasiandra   macrantha. 


LAURUS  CAMPHORA  (Camphor 

This  handsome  evergreen  is  a  native  of  Japan  and  produces 
the  camphor  of  commerce.  It  has  a  close  pyramidal  or  oval- 
shaped  head  with  laurel-like  leaves,  the  young  leaves  having  a 
pink  tint  which  gives  it  a  striking  appearance  in  the  landscape. 
In  the  Southern  and  warmer  portions  of  the  State  it  makes  a 
very  good  sidewalk  tree. 

Propagate,  in  March,  by  seeds  sown  one-eighth  of  an  inch 
deep,  or  by  cuttings,  also  in  March,  put  into  cutting-mixture, 
composed  of  half  sand  and  half  leaf-mold;  place  in  a  cold 

[123] 


r 

Gardening    in    Californi 


frame  until  the  cuttings  are  calloused  and  give  gentle  bottom 
heat  until  rooted. 

LAVRUS  NOBILIS. 

The  Laurus  nobilis  is  a  handsome  evergreen  hardy  tree,  a 
native  of  Southern  Europe.  It  has  dark-green,  oblong,  pointed 
leaves,  is  of  an  upright  habit  and  grows  to  the  height  of  about 
forty  feet. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  inserted  in  sand  in  a  cold  frame,  in 
October. 


LEPTOSPERMUM. 

This  handsome  member  of 
the  Myrtle  family  is  one  of  our 
most  popular  shrubs,  growing 
vigorously  in  the  poorest  sand 
and  in  the  most  exposed  situa- 
tion. It  also  is  one  of  the  best 
shrubs  for  seaside  planting.  It 
is  of  a  semi-pendulous  graceful 
habit,  and,  when  covered  with 
its  long  sprays  of  marble-white 
flowers,  makes  a  grand  effect  in 
the  landscape.  Leptospermum 
laveagatum  is  the  best  of  the 
species. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep  in 
Spring;  prick  them  off  about  three  inches  apart  in  boxes,  and 
plant  them  out  in  their  permanent  quarters  when  they  are  a  foot 
high. 


Leptospermum. 


124] 


Trees     and     Shrubs 


LEUCADENDRON  (Silver  free) . 

This  is  the  celebrated  Silver  Tree  of  South  Africa.  In  the 
Cape  of  Good  Hope  it  grows  to  a  height  of  about  thirty  feet. 
It  gets  its  name  from  its  leaves  which  are  of  a  soft  silvery-white 
color  and  densely  covered  with  white  silky  hairs.  It  does  well 
in  light  loam  and  must  have  a  warm  sheltered  situation  where  it 
becomes,  when  in  health,  a  very  striking  object.  Leucadendron 
argentium,  the  best  of  the  species,  should  be  more  commonly 
seen  as  it  forms  a  handsome  tree. 

Propagate  by  seeds  secured  from  South  Africa;  plant  them 
one  quarter  of  an  inch  deep  as  soon  as  received  from  their  native 
locality;  start  them  in  a  warm  greenhouse  and  be  very  careful 
not  to  overwater  them. 


LIBOCEDRUS  (Incense  Cedar). 


A  genus  comprising  eight  spe- 
cies; two  are  natives  of  New  Zea- 
land, one  of  California,  two  of 
Chile,  one  of  Japan,  one  of  China, 
and  one  of  New  Caledonia.  Our 
native  species,  Libocedrus  decur- 
rens  is  of  a  densely-branched  habit 
of  growth  and  rather  formal  in 
outline.  Libocedrus  Chilensis  is 
of  the  same  habit  but  has  leaves 
of  a  light  glaucous  green.  Libo- 
cedrus Dombiana,  the  New  Zea- 
land species,  is  also  rather  stiff  and 
formal  in  habit  but  differs  from 

the  Chilean  species  in  having  bright-green  leaves.  All  are  of 
easy  growth  and  thrive  in  our  climate  if  given  shelter  and  well- 
drained  soil. 

[127] 


Libocedrus  decurrens. 


Gardening    in    California 


Propagate  by  seeds  sown  in  Spring,  one-quarter  of  an  inch 
deep  in  light  sandy  soil;  protect  them  from  hot  sun  until  they 
are  one  inch  high  when  they  may  be  planted  in  nursery  beds  out 
of  doors. 

LIGUSTRUM    (Privet). 


Ligustrum  Japonicum. 


This  genus  contains  about 
twenty-five  species  of  orna- 
mental, hardy,  deciduous  or 
evergreen  shrubs  or  small  trees 
indigenous  to  Europe,  temper- 
ate Asia  and  Australia.  They 
are  easily  cultivated,  will  grow 
in  any  good  garden  soil  and 
make  excellent  subjects  for 
grouping  in  the  pleasure-garden. 
They  flower  freely  and  remain 
in  bloom  for  several  months. 
The  Japanese  species  Ligu- 
strum ibota,  Ligustrum  Japoni- 
cum, Ligustrum  lucidum  and  Ligustrum  ovalifolium,  are  among 
the  best  and  should  be  used  freely  in  planting  large  grounds. 
Ligustrum  ovalifolium  ancMLigustrum  Japonicum^  make  good 
hedge  plants. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  in  the  Fall,  or  by  seeds  sown  in  open 
ground  in  Spring.  Cover  the  seeds  to  the  depth  of  one-eighth 
of  an  inch. 

LIQUIDAMBAR  (Sweet  Guni) . 


A  small  genus  of  about  four  species  of  which  the  North 
American  species  Liquidambar  styraciflua  is  the  best.  It  has  a 
maple-like  leaf,  grows  to  the  height  of  about  sixty  feet,  and, 
when  late  in  the  Fall  it  has  taken  on  its  Autumn  tints,  it  has  a 

[128] 


Trees     and     Shrubs 


very  striking  appearance.  Its  cork-like,  barked  branches  give  it 
a  picturesque  and  interesting  character,  suitable  for  informal 
planting.  Plant  in  low  sheltered  situations  in  soft  moist  soil 
and  give  plenty  of  water  during  the  growing  season. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  in  Spring  in  open  ground,  covered 
to  the  depth  of  one-quarter  of  an  inch. 

LlRIODENDRON    (fultf    ^free). 

The  Tulip  tree,  one  of  the  most  desirable  of  deciduous  trees, 
is  of  pyramidal  habit  with  fiddle-shaped  leaves  and  tulip-shaped 
flowers.  It  makes  a  handsome  avenue  tree,  being  clean  of  stem 
and  of  smooth  foliage,  turning  bright-yellow  in  the  Fall.  It 
must  have  rich  bottom  land  and  a  sheltered  situation  to  do  well. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  in  the  Fall  or  as  soon  as  ripe,  in  the 
open  ground.  Cover  the  seeds  to  the  depth  of  one-quarter  of 
an  inch.  \ 

LYONOTHAMNUS. 

A  handsome  evergreen  tree  found  only  in  the  islands  of 
Santa  Barbara  channel.  In  Santa  Cruz  Island  it  grows  to  the 
height  of  sixty  feet.  This  tree  should  make  an  excellent  addi- 
tion to  our  coast  collection,  and,  as  it  is  a  rapid  grower  of  good 
habit  and  has  a  bright  grass-green  leaf,  should  be  planted 
extensively. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  placed  in  sand  in  cool  frame  in 
October. 


[129] 


Gardening    in    California 


MAGNOLIA. 


Magnolia  stellata. 


A  highly  ornamental 
genus  of  about  twenty 
species  of  evergreen  or  de- 
ciduous trees  and  shrubs. 
The  evergreen  Magnolia 
grandiflora  with  its  mas- 
sive leaves  and  large  white 
fragrant  flowers  is  well 
adapted  for  planting  either 
as  single  specimens  on  the 
lawn  or  in  large  or  small 
groups.  The  deciduous 
species,  Magnolia  acuminata,  is  a  vigorous-growing  lofty  tree 
with  spreading  branches.  Magnolia  tripetala  is  another  strong 
vigorous  grower  which  should  be  seen  more  often.  Besides  those 
of  tree  form,  many  species  are  low-growing,  shrubby  and  very  flor- 
iferous,  some  of  them  blooming  in  early  Spring  before  they  unfold 
their  leaves.  These  include  Magnolia  conspicua  and  its  varieties 
Magnolia  soulangiana,  Magnolia  obovata,  Magnolia  parviflora 
and  Magnolia  stellata.  The  banana  odor  of  the  flower  of  Magno- 
lia muscata  is  so  powerful  that  one  or  two  flowers  will  perfume  a 
whole  house.  Magnolias  delight  in  a  warm,  sheltered  situation, 
a  rich  sedimentary  loam  soil  and  plenty  of  water  during  the 
growing  season.  If  given  these  conditions  they  will  well  repay 
any  care  bestowed  on  them. 

Propagate,  about  September,  by  layers  or  by  sowing  the 
seeds,  as  soon  as  ripe,  one-quarter  of  an  inch  deep  in  pots  of 
sandy  leaf-mold  under  glass.  When  the  young  seedlings  are 
three  inches  high,  pot  them  singly  in  three-inch  pots  and  shade 
them  for  a  few  days  after  which  they  may  be  given  air  and  full 
light. 


130 


Melaleuca  leucadendron. 


Trees     and     Shrubs 


MAYTENUS. 

A  genus  of  evergreen  trees  or  shrubs  mostly  natives  of  Chile, 
of  an  upright  habit  of  growth,  with  myrtle-like  leaves,  forming 
very  elegant  and  graceful  shrubs  with  small  white,  yellow  or  red 
flowers.  Maytenus  boaria  (with  white  flowers)  and  Maytenus 
Chilensis  (bearing  greenish-yellow  flowers)  are  the  most  desir- 
able species. 

They  thrive  in  any  garden  soil  and  in  any  situation,  being 
particularly  adapted  for  growing  in  the  Southern  part  of  Cali- 
fornia, while  they  also  do  well  in  San  Francisco  and  neigh- 
borhood. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  in  early  Fall. 


MELALEUCA. 

A  genus  comprising  about 
one  hundred  species  of  mostly 
evergreen  shrubs  or  trees,  na- 
tives of  Australia.  All  have 
black  stems  and  white-barked 
branches.  They  are  all  highly 
ornamental  and  graceful  in 
habit,  thrive  in  poor  soil  and 
require  only  a  moderate  supply 
of  water, — indeed,  if  well-cul- 
tivated requiring  no  artificial 
irrigation  whatever. 

Melaleuca  dicussata,  Mela- 
leuca  fulgens  and  Melaleuca 

leucadendron  will  be  found  among  the  best  species  for  general 
cultivation. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  of  half-ripe  wood  in  Summer  or  by 
seeds  sown  in  March  or  April.    Cover  the  seeds  lightly. 

[133] 


Melaleuca  leucadendron. 


Gardening    in    California 


MELIA  AZEDARACH  (Umbrella  ^free). 

The  Umbrella  tree  is  one  of  the  most  popular  shade  trees  in 
California,  being  a  rapid  grower  and  of  easy  propagation,  grow- 
ing freely  from  seed.  Its  bright-green  foliage,  which  it  carries 
until  late  in  the  season,  together  with  its  long  sprays  of  fragrant 
lilac-colored  blossoms  make  it  a  general  favorite  through  the 
warmer  districts  of  the  State,  where  it  does  exceedingly  well  ex- 


Mespilus  Japonica. 

cepting  very  close  to  the  coast.  There  the  fresh  sea-wind  whips 
the  long  pinnate  leaves  from  the  exposed  side,  destroying  its 
symmetry  and  formal  habit. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  one-quarter  of  an  inch  deep,  in  the 
Fall ;  leave  them  one  year  in  seed-bed  and  then  transplant  them 
into  nursery  rows  where  they  should  be  allowed  to  remain  until 
they  are  large  enough  to  be  planted  in  permanent  quarters. 

[134] 


Trees    and    Shrubs 


MESPILUS  (Medlar). 

The  Medlar,  although  considered  more  a  fruit  than  an  orna- 
mental tree,  is  nevertheless  frequently  grown  as  the  latter.  This 
is  especially  so  in  the  case  of  the  Japanese  species  which  has 
large  handsome  leaves  and  forms  a  very  fine  shade  tree.  Any 
good  garden  soil  is  suitable  for  growing  the  Medlar. 

Propagation  of  this  tree  is  by  means  of  seeds  which  should 
be  sown  during  Spring  in  a  cold  frame.  The  seeds  should  be 
covered  to  the  depth  of  a  quarter  of  an  inch. 

METROCEDEROS. 


A  genus  of  about  eighteen 
species  natives  of  the  Pacific 
Islands,  New  Zealand  and  New 
South  Wales,  mostly  shrubby  in 
habit,  having  narrow  pointed 
leaves  and  showy  flowers,  growing 
well  in  any  garden  soil  and  re- 
quiring no  artificial  watering 
where  the  ground  is  well  culti- 
vated and  kept  clear  of  weeds. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  in  early 
Fall  or  by  seeds  sown,  in  Spring, 
one-quarter  of  an  inch  deep  in  a 
cold  frame.  When  the  seedlings 
are  one  inch  high,  transplant  them  two  inches  apart  in  boxes. 

MELIANTHUS  MAJOR. 

The  Melianthus  is  a  shrub  especially  effective  in  large 
grounds  where  fine  subtropical  effects  are  desired,  as  its  graceful 
habit  and  large  glaucous  leaves  make  it  very  desirable  for  this 
purpose. 

-  [  135  1 


Metrocederos  robusta. 


Gardening    in    Californi 


This  shrub  is  propagated  by  cuttings  which  should  be  placed 
in  a  cold  frame,  during  September  or  October,  in  soil  composed 
of  sand  and  leaf -mold  in  equal  proportions. 

MORUS  NIGRA  (Mulberry). 

The  Mulberry  is  cultivated  chiefly  for  feeding  the  silkworm. 
It  grows  to  the  height  of  from  twenty  to  sixty  feet,  having  large 
heart-shaped  leaves  and  spreading  habit;  it  should  be  given 
fairly  good  soil  and  a  sheltered  situation. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  placed  in  open  ground  late  in  the  Fall 
after  the  leaves  have  dropped,  or  by  seeds  sown  in  Spring.  Cover 
the  seeds  to  the  depth  of  one-quarter  of  an  inch.  The  following 
Spring  transplant  them  one  foot  from  each  other  into  nursery 
rows  two  feet  apart. 

MYRICA. 

This  genus  contains  only  a  few  species,  one  indigenous  to 
California,  one  to  Europe,  two  to  Japan  and  one  to  Canada.  It 
grows  to  a  height  of  sometimes  forty  feet,  is  bush-like  in  habit, 
has  a  willow-like  bright-green  leaf  and  bears  a  purple  or 
red  fruit.  It  delights  in  a  light  sandy  soil  in  a  sheltered  situ- 
ation with  plenty  of  moisture,  preferably  the  margin  of  a  lake 
or  swamp. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep  in 
Spring,  or  by  cuttings  placed  in  the  open  ground  in  October. 

MYRTUS  (Myrtle). 

The  Myrtle  is  an  extensive  genus  comprising  over  one  hun- 
dred species,  mostly  natives  of  Australia,  South  America  and 
Southern  Europe.  The  common  species  (Myrtus  communis)  is 
one  of  our  most  popular  and  best  known  shrubs,  its  fragrant 
leaves  and  pretty  white  flowers  making  it  a  general  favorite. 

[136] 


Trees     and     Shrubs 


There  are  many  handsome  species,  including  Myrtus  bullata, 
(which  grows  from  ten  to  twenty  feet  high)  and  Myrtus 
apiculata. 

It  is  of  easy  culture  and  grows  well  in  any  soil  not  too  heavy, 
being  readily  propagated  by  cuttings  placed  in  sandy  leaf-mold 
in  a  cold  frame  in  early  Fall,  or  by  seeds  sown,  in  Spring,  one 
eighth  of  an  inch  deep  in  a  cold  frame. 


NANDINA, 

This  genus  contains  but  a 
single  species,  the  elegant  Nan- 
dina  domestica.  It  is  of  upright 
habit  with  compound  leaves 
which  in  the  young  state  are  beau- 
tifully tinted  with  pink;  the 
fruit  is  oval  in  shape  and  about 
the  size  of  a  large  pea.  It  is  good 
for  small  grouping. 

Propagate  by  division  of  the 
roots  in  early  Spring  and  by  seeds 
sown  in  Spring  one-quarter  of  an 
inch  deep  in  a  cold  frame. 


Nandina   domestica. 


NERIUM  (Oleander). 

A  small  genus  of  very  ornamental  evergreen  flowering  shrubs 
of  erect  habit,  natives  of  the  Mediterranean  regions.  In  the 
warmer  districts  of  the  State  the  Oleander  is  a  general  favorite 
on  account  of  its  easy  culture  and  its  generous  long-continued 
supply  of  gaily-colored  flowers.  Close  to  the  coast,  although 
the  Oleander  grows  to  wood  well  enough,  it  does  not  flower 
freely,  therefore  it  is  not  recommended  as  a  coast  shrub  or  for 
planting  in  San  Francisco  except  against  a  wall  facing  the  South. 

[137] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


Propagate  by  cuttings  of  ripe  wood  placed,  about  April,  in 
sandy  leaf -mold  in  a  warm  propagating  house;  as  soon  as  they 
are  rooted,  pot  them  singly  in  three-inch  pots  and  give  them  room 
as  required. 

OLEARIA. 

A  large  genus  mostly  Australian.  Some  of  them  make  beau- 
tiful bushes  and  should  be  more  often  seen.  They  succeed  in 
any  good  soil  and  require  little  water  if  given  thorough  culti- 
vation. The  best  flowering  kinds  are  Olearia  Fosterii,  Olearia 
Gunnii,  and  Olearia  Haastii. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  of  half-ripe  wood  inserted,  in  October, 
in  sandy  leaf-mold,  placed  in  a  cold  frame,  and  kept  close 
and  shaded  from  hot  sunshine  for  two  weeks. 

OLEA  EUROPEA  (Olive). 

What  the  Elm  or  the  Oak  is  to  Northern  Europe,  what  the 
Conifers  are  to  the  Mountains  of  California,  the  Olive  is  to  Italy, 
where  it  is  grown  both  for  its  oil  and  as  an  ornamental  tree.  As 
a  feature  of  the  landscape  it  is  very  effective,  its  grey-green  foli- 
age and  its  soft  willow-like  habit  fitting  it  well  for  grouping  if 
allowed  to  grow  naturally  and  not  subjected  to  the  pruning- 
knife. 

It  grows  in  any  soil,  even  on  a  rocky  hillside  where  it  pro- 
duces fine  effects  without  irrigation. 

Propagate,  in  Spring,  by  cuttings  of  either  young  or  old  wood, 
or  by  seeds  sown  one-half  inch  deep  in  the  open  ground;  keep 
them  in  the  nursery  until  well  established. 


138 


Trees    and    Shrubs 


OSMANTHUS. 

So  named  on  account  of  the  fragrance  of  its  flowers.  There 
are  several  species  (one  American),  the  Japanese  being  the  most 
desirable. 

Osmanthus  aquifolium  has  handsome  holly-like  leaves,  is 
evergreen  and  of  good  habit,  bearing  white  flowers.  Osmanthus 
fragrans  has  entire,  elliptic-shaped  leaves  and  bears  yellow 
flowers. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  set  in  a  cold  frame  in  the  early  Fall. 
The  Osmanthus  is  not  particular  as  to  soil,  but  prefers  a  warm 
situation  and  partial  shade  from  noonday  sun. 

PARKINSONIA. 

This  beautiful  Mexican  shrub,  with  its  feathery  drooping 
branches  and  yellow  flowers,  is  becoming  a  general  favorite  in 
all  of  our  gardens  where  a  collection  of  fine  shrubs  is  aimed  at. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  in  a  warm  green- 
house or  frame;  cover  the  seeds  with  a  quarter  of  an  inch  of 
soil.  The  seedlings  should  be  transplanted  to  the  open  ground 
when  they  are  six  inches  in  height. 

PAULOWNIA. 

Ornamental  deciduous  trees  with  catalpa-like  leaves  and  fox- 
glove-like flowers,  well  adapted,  when  young,  to  give  semi- 
tropical  broad-leaved  effects,  and,  in  well-sheltered  situations  and 
good  soil,  making  a  good  street  tree. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  in  Spring,  one-quarter  of  an  inch 
deep  in  the  open  ground  in  light  rich  soil. 


[  139 


Gardening    in    Californi 


PHILADELPHIA  (Mock  Orange). 

Ornamental  deciduous  shrubs,  with 
opposite  leaves  and  white  flowers  in  ter- 
minal racemes  on  short  branches  ap- 
pearing in  May  and  on  until  July. 
They  are  well  adapted  for  shrubby  un- 
dergrowth, liking  partial  shade.  When 
exposed  to  the  full  sun,  the  flowers  are 
smaller  and  lack  the  delicate  tinting  of 
those  grown  in  half  shade.  Any  fair 
garden  soil  will  suit  them  as  they  are 
of  easy  culture.  Prune  the  bushes  as 
soon  as  the  flowers  fade,  to  encourage 
the  making  of  strong  young  shoots  to 
take  the  place  of  those  cut,  as  it  is  on 

the  previous  year's  wood  that  they  flower. 

There  are  several  species  worthy  of  a  place,  including  Phila- 

delphus   coronarius,   Philadelphus   Gordonianum,   Philadelphus 

grandiflora   and   others   of   which   some   varieties   have   double 

flowers  and  some  variegated  foliage. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  of  ripe  wood  placed  in  sandy  soil  in 

the  open  ground  in  November  or  as  soon  as  the  leaves  fall. 


Philadelphus. 


PHILLYREA. 

A  genus  comprising  only  four  species,  all  evergreen  and  orna- 
mental, natives  of  the  Mediterranean  regions.  They  have  a 
rather  upright  habit  and  small,  myrtle-like,  glossy,  dark-green 
leaves.  The  flowers  are  small  and  not  showy.  They  grow 
freely  in  any  good  garden  soil  to  a  height  of  ten  feet  and  form 
a  dense  bush. 

Propagate  by  cuttings,  in  the  Fall,  placed  in  sandy  soil  in  a 
cold  frame. 

[  HO] 


Trees    and     Shrubs 


PHOTINIA  (California  Redberry  or  Holly). 

A  genus  of  highly  ornamental  trees  or  shrubs  mostly  natives 
of  India,  China  and  Japan,  one  being  indigenous  to  California. 
All  are  handsomely  leaved.  Our  native  species  is  the  glory  of 
our  hillsides  in  Fall  and  Winter,  and  indispensable  for  decorating 
our  rooms  and  banquet  halls  at  Christmastide,  its  great  bunches 
of  crimson-red  berries  contrasting  well  with  its  glossy  green 
foliage.  The  Redberry  delights  in  a  sunny  situation  and  a  loose 
rocky  soil. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep  in  open 
ground  in  the  Fall;  transplant  them  when  they  are  three  inches 
high  and  replant  them  each  year  until  they  are  large  enough 
to  be  planted  where  required,  as  it  is  rather  difficult  to  move 
them  safely  when  they  are  left  too  long  in  one  place. 

PICEA. 

The  Pitch  Firs  are  classed  among  the  most  ornamental  of  the 
Conifer  family,  all  of  the  species  being  highly  prized  for  their 
beautiful  form  and  tall  pyramidal  stately  outline,  making,  when 
in  health,  splendid  specimens  for  decorating  the  lawn  either 
singly  or  in  group  form. 

In  addition  to  our  native  species,  the  Eastern  and  Japanese 
species  and  even  the  Himalayan  and  Norwegian  thrive  in 
California,  growing  well  in  any  garden  soil  which  is  properly 
drained. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  in  Spring,  one-quarter  of  an  inch 
deep,  in  a  shady  spot;  transplant  the  following  year. 


141 


Gardening    in    California 


Pimelia   rosea. 


PlMELIA. 

The  Pimelias  are  among  our  most 
showy  late-Winter  and  early-Spring 
flowering  shrubs,  mostly  natives  of 
Australia  and  New  Zealand.  They 
have  a  neat  compact  habit  of  growth, 
being  easily  grown  and  easily  propa- 
gated, while  any  fairly  good  soil  will 
suit  them.  They  make  excellent  plants 
for  the  margins  of  groups  of  taller- 
growing  shrubs,  or  in  small  groups  by 
themselves  or  singly  in  borders.  There 
are  about  seventy  species,  only  a  few 
of  which  have  been  introduced  into 
California. 
Propagate  by  cuttings  placed  in  sandy  leaf-mold,  in  a  cold 

frame  in  September  or  October;    shade  during  hot  sunshine; 

pot  them  singly  in  small  pots  when  they  are  rooted. 

PINUS  (<fke  Pine). 

This  highly  ornamental  as  well  as  most  useful  genus  com- 
prises about  seventy  species  indigenous  to  most  of  the  North 
Temperate  Zone  and  contains  many  exceedingly  ornamental  and 
picturesque  trees  for  landscape  improvement.  Pinus  insignis 
(the  Monterey  Pine)  by  many  authorities  is  considered  to  be  the 
most  ornamental  of  all  the  species  either  native  or  foreign.  An- 
other native,  Pinus  Lambertiana  (Sugar  Pine)  is  without  doubt 
the  most  gigantic  of  all.  The  Pine  is  not  particular  as  to  soil 
provided  it  is  well  drained,  although  there  are  some,  such  as 
Pinus  Murrayana  and  Pinus  rigida,  which  prefer  a  wet  or 
swampy  situation. 

California  is  very  rich  in  varieties  of  this  genus,  no  less  than 
sixteen  species  being  indigenous  to  this  coast. 


Trees    and    Shrubs 


Among  the  most  desirable  foreign  species  may  be  included 
Pinus  cembra,  Pinus  halepensis  and  Pinus  pinea  (the  Italian 
Stone  Pine)  perhaps  the  most  picturesque  species  of  the  genus. 
This  Pine  prefers  a  sandy  soil  and  a  seaside  sheltered  situation. 


A  Group  of  Pines. 


Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  in  March  or  April,  from  one-quarter 
to  one-half  an  inch  deep  (according  to  the  size  of  the  seeds)  in  a 
cold  frame.  When  the  young  seedlings  are  two  or  three  inches 
high,  they  should  be  placed  in  nursery  rows  in  the  open,  ground, 
and,  when  from  twelve  to  eighteen  inches  high,  should  be 
planted  out  in  their  permanent  quarters  in  Winter. 

[143] 


Gardening    in    California 


PlTTOSPORUM. 

The  Pittosporums  form  a 
large  genus  of  over  one  hundred 
species,  all  evergreen  and 
mostly  natives  of  the  Australian 
group.  All  the  introduced  spe- 
cies are  of  the  easiest  culture 
and  not  particular  as  to  soil. 
They  make  grand  single  speci- 
mens on  the  lawn,  besides  being 
very  effective  in  grouping,  and 
also  make  excellent  ornamental 
hedge  plants. 

The  species  best  adapted  to 
California  are  Pittosporum  cras- 

sifolium,  Pittosporum  eugenoides,  Pittosporum  nigricans,  Pitto- 
sporum tobira  and  Pittosporum  undulatum. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  in  March  one-quarter  of  an  inch 
deep,  in  a  cold  frame,  or  by  cuttings  placed  in  sandy  leaf-mold 
in  a  cold  frame  in  September. 


Pittosporum  undulatum. 


PLATANUS  (Plane  ^free;   Sycamore). 

This  genus  contains  only  three  species,  all  being  magnificent 
trees  for  parks  and  large  grounds.  To  grow  well,  they  should 
have  a  deep,  soft,  moist  soil  and  a  well-sheltered  site,  preferably 
a  river  bottom  where  their  roots  may  easily  reach  perennial 
waters. 

Propagate  by  seeds;  the  seeds  are  contained  in  round  balls 
which  must  be  broken  to  free  the  seeds.  Sow  in  February,  one- 
eighth  of  an  inch  deep  in  a  shady  place,  and  keep  them  well 
watered  until  they  germinate;  transplant  them  to  nursery  rows 
when  they  are  one  year  old. 

[i44] 


Trees     and     Shrub 


PLUMBAGO. 

A  genus  comprising  about  ten  species  of  hardy  shrubs  or 
annual  herbs,  natives  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  the  East  Indies 
and  Southern  Europe. 

Plumbago  capensis,  (the  pale-blue  variety)  is  the  most  popu- 
lar of  the  species,  being  admirably  adapted  for  training  on  trel- 
lises or  pillars  as  is  also  Plumbago  Zealanica  (the  white-flower- 
ing variety) .  The  latter  does  well  as  a  garden  shrub.  Whether 
grown  as  a  shrub  or  for  the  purpose  of  covering  walls  or  trellises, 
it  should  be  cut  back  hard  after  the  flowering  season  is  over  in  the 
late  Fall. 

Propagate  by  suckers,  which  should  be  taken  off  in  the  early 
Spring  and  placed  in  nursery  rows,  or  by  cuttings  placed  in  a 
cold  frame  in  light  sandy  leaf-mold  in  September. 

POINCIANA  (Peacock-flower}. 

A  genus  of  very  pretty  flowering  trees  or  shrubs,  natives 
of  the  West  Indies  and  Eastern  North  Africa.  They  must  have 
a  warm  sunny  situation  where  they  form  grand  effects  in 
Summer  and  Autumn. 

Poinciana  pulcherrima  (the  East  Indian  species)  grows  to 
the  height  of  about  twelve  feet  and  bears  great  masses  of  orange- 
yellow  flowers. 

Poinciana  regia  (from  Madagascar)  is  the  largest  of  the 
genus,  reaching,  under  favorable  conditions,  the  height  of  from 
thirty  to  forty  feet  and  having  a  trunk  three  feet  in  diameter. 
With  its  beautiful  bipinnate  leaves  two  feet  in  length  it  is  very 
effective  in  the  garden  or  grounds,  especially  when  it  is  covered 
with  its  gorgeous  masses  of  bright  scarlet  and  yellow  flowers. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  in  the  Fall  (protect  them  with 
glass  frame  during  the  first  Winter),  or  by  seeds  sown,  in  early 
Spring,  in  a  cold  frame;  cover  the  seeds  to  the  depth  of 
one-quarter  of  an  inch. 

[145] 


Gardening    in    California 


POLYGALA. 


The  Polygala  is  an  exten- 
sive genus  comprising  over  two 
hundred  species,  only  a  few  of 
which  are  worthy  of  cultivation, 
Polygala  Dalmaisiana(the  com- 
mon species)  being  the  best  of 
the  genus. 

It  loves  a  cool  climate  near 
the  coast  away  from  frost,  al- 
though it  will  stand  a  few  de- 
grees without  injury.  The  Poly- 
gala, like  the  European  Whin, 
Polygala  Dalmaisiana.  seems  to  flower  every  month  in 

the  year  and  has  a  neat  dwarf  bushy  habit. 

Propagate,  in  October,  by  cuttings  placed  in  a  cold  frame 
in  sand  and  leaf -mold;  when  rooted,  pot  them  off  singly  in 
thumb-pots,  shading  the  newly  potted  plants  until  they  get  over 
the  change. 


POPULUS  (Poplar). 


A  well  known  genus  of  deciduous  trees  natives  of  Europe, 
Asia  and  America.  The  genus  contains  about  eighteen  species, 
many  of  which,  when  given  congenial  soil,  are  among  the  most 
rapid  growers  of  the  forest.  They  thrive  best  in  a  deep  damp 
soil,  where  the  underground  water  is  near  the  surface,  or  along 
the  banks  of  creeks  or  watercourses. 

The  favorite  species  are  the  Carolina,  the  Lombardy,  the 
Aspen  and  the  Silver-leaved. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  placed  in  the  open  ground  in 
November. 

[146] 


Trees    and     Shrubs 


Prunus  sinensis. 


PRUNUS  (Plum). 

The  Plum  is  one  of  our  earliest 
flowering  trees,  often  opening  its 
showers  of  pink  and  white  blossoms 
early  in  January.  It  forms  a  most 
handsome  tree  and  should  be  seen  in 
the  landscape  much  more  commonly 
than  it  is,  growing  freely  in  any  fairly 
good  soil  and  requiring  no  irrigation  if 
the  soil  is  kept  loose  and  free  from 
weeds. 

The  first  to  bloom  is  the  Prunus 
pissardii  (a  native  of  Persia)  having 
white  flowers  tinted  with  pink,  while,  a 
little  later,  its  reddish-purple  leaves  and, 

in  the  Fall,  its  handsome  light-red  fruit  make  it  a  very  desirable 
small  tree.    It  grows  to  the  height  of  about  thirty  feet. 

Prunus  mume,  the  famous  flowering  Plum  of  Japan,  with 
its  showers  of  bright  pink  blossoms  makes  a  handsome  feature  in 
the  landscape.  Groups  of  this  beautiful,  hardy,  free-flowering 
tree  are  most  effective  when  grown  with  a  background  of  dark- 
foliaged  fir,  spruce  or  yew,  or  flanked  with  a  belt  of  Japanese 
Retinospora  retusa. 

There  are  many  other  species  which  are  very  desirable  for 
decorating  the  shrubbery,  such  as  the  double-flowering  Prunus 
sinensis  flora  pleno,  with  pink  or  white  flowers,  and  Prunus  tri- 
loba,  also  a  double-flowering  species  of  shrubby  habit. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  inserted  in  the  open  ground  in  No- 
vember, or  by  seeds  planted  about  one  inch  deep  and  three  inches 
apart,  in  Spring. 


147 


Gardening    in    California 


PUNICA  GRANATUM   (Pomegranate). 

The  Pomegranate  is  a  small 
deciduous  tree,  native  of  Persia, 
with  bright  scarlet  and  orange- 
colored  flowers  and  ornamental 
subacid-flavored  fruit.  It  forms  a 
very  pretty  low  tree  or  shrub 
when  in  flower  in  early  Summer 
and  again  when  in  fruit  in  the 
Fall.  The  double-flowered  va- 
riety makes  an  excellent  bush  or 
hedge. 

Any  good  garden  soil  suits  it 
as  it  is  easily  grown  if  given  good 
cultivation. 

Propagate  by  cuttings,  layers  or  suckers  in  Autumn  after  the 
leaves  fall. 

PYRUS   (Apple). 


Punica  granatum. 


The  color  effects  produced  by 
masses  of  apple-blossoms  are  among  the 
finest  of  any  flowering  tree,  especially 
in  the  case  of  the  double  and  semi- 
double-flowering  varieties.  Fruit  trees 
which  have  beautiful  flowers  should  be 
planted  in  group  form  for  their  land- 
scape effects  much  more  commonly 
than  they  are.  The  Bellfleur  Apple, 
planted,  say  six  in  a  group,  with  a  back- 
ground of  dark  foliage,  gives,  when 
in  flower,  one  of  the  most  pleasing 
effects  possible,  and  besides,  if  given 
good  cultivation,  furnishes  just  as  fine 
fruit  as  if  planted  in  orchard  form. 

[148] 


Pyrus   floribunda. 


Trees    and    Shrubs 


Pyrus  floribunda,  Pyrus  Japonica,  Pyrus  malus,  and  its 
varieties,  Pyrus  Americana,  and  Pyrus  acuparia  (the  Mountain 
Ash)  are  all  valuable  in  landscape  work. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  one-quarter  of  an  inch  deep  in 
Spring;  transplant,  the  following  Spring,  into  nursery  rows 
one  foot  apart  in  the  row,  the  rows  being  two  feet  apart  from 
each  other. 

QUERCUS    (Oak}. 

The  Oaks  belong  to  all  countries  which  enjoy  a  temperate 
climate,  and  every  country  owning  them  is  proud  of  its  Oaks 
with  their  immense  trunks,  their  picturesque  character  and  great 
spread  of  limbs.  For  landscape  effects  on  a  large  scale  the  Oak 
tree  is  indispensable,  its  rugged  stem  and  twisted  branches  fur- 
nishing an  element  of  character  not  to  be  found  in  any  other 
genus. 

All  of  the  family  are  worthy  of  a  place  in  any  collection, 
but  our  natives  should  be  preferred,  as  they  give  the  same  general 
effects  as  the  Eastern  and  the  European  species;  besides  we 
know  that  our  native  species  are  sure  to  be  long-lived,  as  they 
are  comparatively  free  from  disease  and  immune  from  the  at- 
tacks of  injurious  insects.  Many  Oak  trees  which  are  long-lived 
in  their  native  countries  have  proved  to  be  short-lived  when 
transplanted  to  a  foreign  country.  The  English  Oak,  for  in- 
stance, which  in  Europe  lives,  under  favorable  conditions,  to  the 
great  age  of  from  fifteen  hundred  to  eighteen  hundred  years,  is 
said  to  show  signs  of  decay  when  it  reaches  the  age  of  from 
fifty  to  seventy  years  in  the  Eastern  States.  Native  trees,  there- 
fore, should  at  all  times  be  given  the  preference  when  the  in- 
digenous species  give  the  effects  desired. 

The  White  Oak  delights  in  a  deep  rich  heavy  loam  resting 
on  a  clay  subsoil,  the  Live  Oak  in  a  rich  loam  on  a  gravel  sub- 
soil. Stagnant  water  about  the  roots  of  a  Live  Oak  will  cause  the 
tree  to  become  sickly  and  to  fail  to  grow  satisfactorily.  Our 

[149] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


native  Black  Oak,  one  of  our  most  desirable  species,  loves  a  rich 
pocket  of  soil  on  a  sheltered  hillside.  In  such  a  situation  it  is  one 
of  the  most  attractive  and  noble  of  all  the  Oak  family. 

California  is  justly  proud  of  its  Oaks,  and  it  is  hoped  that 
owners  of  fine  specimens,  of  whatever  kind  or  species,  will  spare 


Quercus  suber. 

them  as  long  as  possible,  remembering  that  it  takes  at  least  a 
hundred  years  to  grow  them  and  that  many  of  our  grand  speci- 
men Oaks  were  large  trees  when  Drake  and  Balboa  first  visited 
the  Coast. 

Among  the  most  desirable  non-indigenous  species  are  the 
English  Oak  (Quercus  robur),  the  Turkey  Oak  (Quercus  cerris), 
the  Cork  Oak  (Quercus  suber),  the  Pin  Oak  (Quercus  palustris), 
the  Willow  Oak  (Quercus  phillos)  and  the  Southern  Evergreen 
Oak  (Quercus  Virginiana)  while  all  the  others  are  well  worthy 
of  prominent  places  in  large  pleasure-grounds,  public  or  private. 


Trees     and     Shrubs 


Propagate  by  seeds  planted  one  inch  deep  as  soon  as  ripe; 
transplant  them  when  one  year  old,  into  nursery  rows,  and  again 
transplant  them  at  least  every  two  years  until  they  are  large 
enough  to  be  planted  in  their  permanent  quarters. 

RHAMNUS  (Buckthorn — Wild  Co  fee). 

This  handsome  evergreen  or  deciduous  shrub  is  one  of 
those  most  suitable  for  being  planted  in  the  portion  of  the 
grounds  farthest  distant  from  the  water  hydrant  as  it  requires 
little  attention  after  the  first  year.  It  grows  in  any  soil,  forms 
a  dense  mass  of  foliage,  and,  for  planting  as  a  shelter  belt  or 
screen,  is  equaled  by  few  shrubs. 

For  general  planting  purposes,  JRhamnus  Californicus,  our 
native  wild  coffee,  will  be  found  one  of  the  most  satisfactory. 

Propagate  by  seeds  planted  either  in  the  open  border  or 
wherever  the  shrub  is  desired,  covering  the  seeds  to  the  depth  of 
half  an  inch. 


RHODODENDRON. 


The  Rhododendron  is  justly 
classed  among  the  noblest  of 
shrubs,  its  laurel-like  foliage,  its 
massive  habit  and  gorgeous 
trusses  of  flowers  making  it, 
when  well  grown,  one  of  our  fa- 
vorite evergreens. 

The  Rhododendron  prefers 
a  shady  situation  and  a  moist  at- 
mosphere; it  also  likes  a  light 
sandy  soil  and  plenty  of  water 
at  the  roots  but  abhors  lime  and 
alkali  either  in  the  soil  or  in  the 
water. 

[151] 


Rhododendron. 


Gardening    in    Californi 


Rhododendron  Catabiense  and  its  varieties  seem  to  do  better 
than  any  other  species  in  California,  although  some  of  the 
Himalayan  species,  where  well  protected,  make  good  growth 
and  flower  freely,  in  some  instances  making  three  feet  growth 
in  a  single  season. 

Rhododendron  Californicum  makes  a  splendid  specimen  and 
should  be  seen  more  often.  Rhododendron  ponticum  and  its 
varieties  are  doing  excellently  where  the  conditions  are  favorable, 
as  are  also  the  many  hybrids  now  being  introduced. 

The  Rhododendron  must  be  kept  away  from  cold  draughty 
situations  and  must  have  shade  in  the  Summer  season  with 
plenty  of  water  at  the. roots, — but  no  stagnant  water. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  in  Spring.  As  the  seeds  are  very 
minute  they  should  be  sown  in  pots  or  pans  which  should  first 
be  thoroughly  well  drained  and  filled  with  sandy  peat;  press  the 
soil  firm  and  smooth;  soak  thoroughly  with  water  and,  after 
sowing,  press  in  the  seeds  and  cover  them  lightly  with  silver-sand; 
place  the  pans  in  gentle  heat  and  shade  until  the  young  seedlings 
appear  when  they  should  be  given  more  air  and  light;  when 
they  are  large  enough  to  be  handled,  prick  them  off  into  pots 
and  replace  them  in  the  same  temperature  until  they  take  fresh 
root  when  they  should  be  placed  in  a  cold  frame  and  given  room 
as  required. 

Propagation  may  also  be  effected  by  planting  cuttings  of  the 
young  wood,  in  August  or  September,  in  soil  composed  of  half 
silver-sand  and  half  leaf-mold  in  a  shaded  cold  frame  or  under 
a  tree  sheltered  from  cold  winds. 

ROBINIA   (Locust). 

The  Locust  is  one  of  the  most  desirable  of  the  deciduous  trees. 
It  has  handsome  pinnate  leaves  and  bears  its  flowers  in  long  ra- 
cemes of  white,  rose  or  purple  blossoms.  Any  good  garden  soil 
is  suitable  for  its  growth. 


Trees    and    Shrubs 


Propagate  by  seeds  sown  in  the  open  ground  during  early 
Spring;  cover  the  seeds  one-half  inch  deep.  In  the  following 
Spring  the  seedlings  should  be  transplanted  into  nursery  rows. 

ROMNEYA  COULTERII   (Matilija  Poppy). 

The  Romneya  is  beyond 
doubt  the  finest  of  all  wild 
flowers,  none  of  the  newly  in- 
troduced varieties  of  the  Poppy 
family  being  equal  to  this  won- 
derful native  flowering  shrub. 
Every  garden,  unless  extremely 
small,  should  have  its  plant  of 
Matilija  Poppy. 

The  Romneya  Coulterii 
thrives  in  any  soil  (provided 
it  is  well  drained)  and  re- 
quires no  artificial  irrigation,  but 
it  must  have  a  sheltered,  sunny 
exposure  in  order  to  perfect  its  large  and  beautiful  Peony-like 
white  flowers. 

This  Poppy  is  propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  a  warm  frame 
during  early  Spring,  sandy  leaf-mold  being  used  and  the  seeds 
being  covered  to  the  depth  of  a  quarter  of  an  inch.  It  may  also 
be  propagated  at  the  same  season  by  division  of  the  roots. 

SALIX  (Willow). 

This  genus  contains  over  one  hundred  and  fifty  species,  in- 
digenous from  the  farthest  North  of  the  Alaskan  timber-line  to 
Mexico  and  from  Norway  to  the  Levant.  The  Willow  loves  a 
sheltered  valley  and  a  moist  soil  by  the  side  of  a  stream  where 
its  bunches  of  rootlets  may  be  seen  floating  on  the  water. 

[153] 


Romneya    Coulterii. 


Gardening    in    California 


Salix  alba  (the  White  Willow)  and  its  variety  vitellina 
(the  Golden  Willow)  and  Salix  Babylonica  (the  Babylonian 
Weeping  Willow)  are  among  the  best  for  ornamental  planting. 

Propagate,  in  November,  December  or  January,  by  placing 
a  cutting,  of  any  size  or  length,  one-third  of  its  length  in  any 
soil;  give  it  plenty  of  water. 

SAMBUCUS  (Elder). 

A  genus  of  low  trees  or  shrubs  comprising  about  twelve  spe- 
cies, all  hardy,  which  will  grow  in  any  soil  or  situation,  even  the 
most  exposed. 

Our  native  species,  Sambucus  glauca,  grows  to  the  height  of 
about  twenty  feet  and  is 'common  throughout  the  State.  It  is 
not  recommended  as  an  ornamental  tree  or  shrub  for  large  plant- 
ing in  ornamental  grounds  but  rather  as  a  shelter  shrub  in  ex- 
posed situations  and  in  poor  soil.  Sambucus  racemosa  is  very 
similar  in  habit  to  Sambucus  glauca,  only  the  berries,  instead  of 
being  black,  are  bright  scarlet  and  are  much  more  effective  in  the 
landscape  on  that  account. 

Sambucus  aurea,  a  golden-leaved  variety,  is  a  fine  ornamental 
plant,  and,  when  planted  in  masses  in  the  shrubbery,  is  very 
effective. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  placed  in  the  open  ground  late  in 
October. 

SCHINUS  MOLLE   (Pepper  ^free). 

The  Pepper  tree  is  a  universal  favorite  and  is  worthy  of  a 
place  in  every  garden,  its  graceful  semipendulous  habit  of  growth 
with  its  pleasing  rounded  outline  and  the  olive-green  color  of  its 
compound  leaves  contrasting  well  with  most  of  the  other  trees 
and  shrubs. 

Schinus  molle,  a  native  of  Peru,  is  much  the  most  handsome 
species  of  the  genus  and  is  the  only  species  recommended  for 

[154] 


Trees     and     Shrubs 


general  planting.  The  Pepper  grows  well  in  any  ordinary  gar- 
den soil  with  very  little  cultivation  and  is  highly  recommended 
for  planting  in  the  vicinity  of  chicken  yards  and  outhouses. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep,  in  a 
cold  frame  in  early  Spring;  pot  off  the  seedlings  singly  in  three- 
inch  pots  when  they  are  three  inches  high,  and  give  them  room 
as  required. 

SEQUOIA  (Redwood). 

The  giant  Redwood  of  Cali- 
fornia has  a  world-wide  reputa- 
tion and  is  one  of  the  wonders  of 
the  State,  being  without  doubt 
the  largest  of  the  great  family  of 
Conifers.  As  a  landscape  tree 
it  is  possibly  a  little  formal  in 
habit,  but,  when  a  stately 
conical  massive  group  of  form- 
ally shaped  trees  is  required,  no 
tree  is  more  effective,  young 
specimens,  from  fifty  to  one  hun- 
dred years  of  age  and  of  the 
same  number  or  more  feet  in 
height,  forming  magnificent  groups  in  any  landscape. 

The  Sequoia  gigantea  loves  the  mountains  and  is  found 
growing  only  in  sheltered  valleys  over  four  thousand  feet  above 
the  sea  level,  in  deep  soil  within  close  proximity  to  the  snow-line, 
and  also  where  perennial  water  is  percolating  within  a  few  feet 
of  the  surface  of  the  soil. 

Sequoia  sempervirens,  on  the  contrary,  prefers  a  low  altitude 
near  the  coast  but  otherwise  requires  the  same  conditions  of 
deep  soil,  reasonable  shelter  and  water  close  to  the  surface. 
Although  seldom  found  growing  more  than  thirty  miles  away 

[155] 


Sequoia  gigantea. 


Gardening    in    Californi 


from  the  coast,  it  is  rarely  found  nearer  the  coast  than  from 
three  to  four  miles,  the  harsh  winds  blowing  in  from  the  ocean 
seeming  to  blast  off  the  leaves  and  stunt  the  growth  of  any  which 
sprout  within  close  range  of  the  ocean,  unless  they  are  given 
shelter. 

Propagate,  in  Spring,  by  seeds  sown  one-quarter  of  an  inch 
deep  in  boxes  placed  in  a  cold  frame;  prick  off  the  seedlings  as 
soon  as  they  are  large  enough  to  be  handled  and  plant  them  in 
nursery  rows  in  the  open  ground  until  they  are  from  twelve  to 
eighteen  inches  high  when  they  should  be  planted  in  their  per- 
manent situations. 

SOPHORA. 

A  genus  of  hardy  deciduous  or  evergreen  trees  or  shrubs 
mostly  natives  of  China,  India  and  Japan,  one  being  a  native  of 
New  Mexico  and  another  indigenous  to  Chile.  They  thrive  well 
in  any  good  well-drained  loamy  soil  not  too  stiff. 

Sophora  Japonica,  the  Japanese  Pagoda  Tree,  is  the  most 
handsome  of  the  genus,  having  a  graceful  form  and  pleasing 
outline. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  one-quarter  of  an  inch  deep  in  the 
open  ground  in  Spring.  The  weeping  and  variegated  forms  are 
increased  by  grafting,  in  Winter,  on  the  common  stock  at  the 
height  of  stem  desired. 

Plant  in  a  rather  low,  well-sheltered  situation  and  give  plenty 
of  water  at  the  roots  during  the  growing  season. 

SORBUS  ACUPARIA  (Mountain  Asli). 

A  genus  of  ornamental  deciduous  trees  or  shrubs,  all  hardy 
in  California,  the  genus  comprising  about  thirty  species.  All 
have  handsome  foliage  and  many  have  showy  bunches  of  red 
berries  which  remain  long  on  the  bushes,  often  until  late  in  the 
Winter. 

[156] 


Trees    and     Shrub 


One  species  (Sorbus  sambuci folia)  is  a  native  of  California 
but  is  only  found  wild  in  the  Sierras  at  an  elevation  of  from 
five  thousand  to  eight  thousand  feet. 

There  are  several  other  species,  including  the  Service  tree 
(Sorbus  domestica)  and  the  Eastern  (Sorbus  Americana)  all 
worthy  of  cultivation. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  in  early  Spring,  one-eighth  of  an 
inch  deep  in  the  open  ground. 

SPARTIUM  JUNCEUM  (Spanish  Broom). 

The  Spanish  Broom  is  one  of  the  shrubs 
best  suited  for  planting  in  the  background  in 
portions  of  the  garden  removed  from  the  reach 
of  the  hose  as  it  requires  no  artificial  irrigation 
after  the  first  year.  It  grows  in  the  poorest  of 
soil  and  on  the  dryest  hillside. 

It  is  a  native  of  the  Canary  Islands  and  the 
shores  of  the  Mediterranean. 

It  gives  its  best  effect,  especially  if  viewed 
from  a  little  distance,  when  growing  in  masses 
on  a  rocky  hillside  (facing  the  sun)  and  sur- 
rounded by  Pines  or  other  dark-green  foliage, 
its  bright  yellow,  pea-shaped  flowers,  which 
completely  hide  the  leaves,  making  the  color 
effect  very  striking.  This  is  especially  noticeable  as  it  blooms 
in  the  late  Autumn  when  few  of  our  flowering  shrubs  are  in 
bloom. 

Excepting  a  semi-double  variety,  no  variation  in  this  species 
has  yet  been  found. 

This  shrub  is  propagated  by  sowing  the  seeds  during  Winter 
or  early  Spring  in  the  open  ground  or  in  a  cold  frame,  the  seeds 
being  covered  to  the  depth  of  half  an  inch.  When  the  seedlings 
are  four  inches  high  they  should  be  transplanted  into  pots,  and,, 
during  the  following  Spring,  set  out  in  their  permanent  situations. 


Spartium  junceunt. 


ardening    in 


C  a  1  i  f  o  r  n  i 


a 


SPIREA. 


Spirea. 


A  genus  comprising  about 
fifty  species  of  handsome  flower- 
ing shrubs  mostly  deciduous. 
All  are  hardy,  free-flowering 
and  of  easy  culture,  and  no 
garden  is  complete  without  a 
collection  of  these  most  beauti- 
ful shrubs.  They  are  excellent 
subjects  for  bordering  groups  of 
taller  or  more  strongly-growing 
kinds  which  alone  are  apt  to 
form  stiff  or  too  formal  effects. 
A  good  collection  of  Spirea, 
when  well  grown,  will  give  a 

supply  of  flowers  for  quite  a  long  season;  for  instance  Spirea 
Chinensis  commences  blooming  early  in  March  and  is  succeeded 
by  Spirea  prunifolia;  then  follow  the  beautiful  white-flowered 
sweet-scented  Spirea  media,  the  rosy-red  Spirea  Japonica  and  the 
Queen  of  the  Prairie  (Spirea  lobata)  with  delicate  peach-colored 
flowers,  while  Spirea  Lindleyana,  the  latest  flowering  of  all, 
blooms  in  September.  These,  with  the  addition  of  many  vari- 
eties (including  our  native  species  Spirea  Douglassii,  Spirea 
aruncus,  Spirea  millefolia,  Spirea  opulifolia,  Spirea  dumosa, 
etc.)  make  a  most  desirable  collection  in  any  garden. 

The  Spirea  grows  freely  in  any  good  soil  with  ordinary  care 
and  a  reasonable  amount  of  water  during  the  growing  season. 
Spirea  aruncus,  Spirea  palmata  and  other  herbaceous  species 
prefer  a  damp,  moist  situation,  particularly  the  bank  of  a  stream 
where  their  fibrous  roots  may  reach  the  water. 

The  herbaceous  species  are  best  propagated  by  division  of  the 
roots,  and  the  shrubby  kind  either  by  division  of  the  roots  or  by 

[158] 


Trees     and     Shrubs 


cuttings,  placed  in  the  open  ground  in  sandy  soil  in  October  or  as 
soon  as  they  shed  their  leaves. 

STERCULIA. 

A  genus  of  evergreen  trees  or  shrubs  comprising  about  sixty 
species,  mostly  natives  of  Australia,  Asia  and  South  America. 
They  form  stately  trees  of  rather  formal  habit  of  stem  and  head, 
well  adapted,  under  suitable  conditions,  for  making  good  street 
trees.  The  best  species  for  California  are  Sterculia  acerifolia 
(the  Australian  Flame  tree),  Sterculia  diversifolia  (from  Vic- 
toria) and  Sterculia  platanifolia  (a  native  of  China).  All  are 
fairly  vigorous  and  prefer  a  warm  sheltered  situation. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  of  well-ripened  wood  placed,  in  Sep- 
tember, in  a  cool  frame  and  shaded  during  hot  sunshine  until 
rooted  or  by  seeds  sown  in  Spring.  Cover  the  seeds  to  the  depth 
of  one-eighth  of  an  inch. 

STREPTOSOLEN. 

The  Streptosolen  is  one  of 
the  finest  of  our  trailing  or 
creeping  shrubs  and  is  admir- 
ably adapted  for  covering  slopes, 
for  hanging  over  walls  or  for 
carpeting  the  ground  among  tall 
shrubs,  its  tubular  orange-col- 
ored flowers  being  very  at- 
tractive. 

Propagation  of  the  Strepto- 
solen is  effected  by  cuttings 
placed  in  a  cold  frame,  during 
October,  in  sandy  leaf-mold. 
Late  in  the  following  Spring,  or 
as  soon  as  the  cuttings  are  well  rooted,  they  should  be  planted  in 
pots  or  in  the  open  border. 

[159] 


Streptosolen. 


Gardening    in    Californi 


STYRAX. 

The  Styrax  is  one  of  our  most  desirable  flowering  shrubs,  hav- 
ing leaves  about  three  inches  in  length  and  graceful  white  pen- 
dulous flowers.  It  becomes  a  handsome  object  in  the  shrubbery 
and  is  good  for  cutting  for  table  or  hall  decoration  in  vases. 

Of  this  genus,  Styrax  serrulata  (a  native  of  Japan)  is  one  of 
the  best  for  planting  in  California. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  as  soon  as  ripe,  one-quarter  of  an 
inch  deep  in  light  sandy  loam  in  the  open  ground. 

When  the  seedlings  are  one  year  old  they  should  be  trans- 
planted, in  early  Spring,  into  nursery  rows  and  set  about  six 
inches  apart. 


SWAINSONIA. 


Swainsonia. 


elegant 


A  genus  comprising  many  species  of 
hardy  shrubs  with  rather 
spreading  habit,  which,  when  planted 
in  conjunction  with  other  shrubs  hav- 
ing stout  upright  branches,  form  a 
charming  combination.  Being  all  Aus- 
tralian, they  take  kindly  to  our  climate 
and  should  be  seen  more  often. 

Propagate  either  by  seeds  or  by  cut- 
tings put  in  sandy  soil  in  a  cool  frame 
any  time  from  July  to  October.  Cover 
the  seeds  to  the  depth  of  one-sixteenth 
of  an  inch. 

SYNCARPIA. 


Syncarpia  laurifolia  is  one  of  Australia's  largest  trees,  grow- 
ing in  that  country  to  the  height  of  two  hundred  feet.  It  has 
a  rather  spreading  habit  of  growth  and  prefers  a  warm  sunny 

[160] 


Trees    and    Shrubs 


situation;  as  it  is  very  sensitive  to  cold,  it  should  not  be  planted 
where  the  thermometer  falls  below  twenty-six  degrees  Fahrenheit. 
It  thrives  in  any  good  soil  in  any  situation  not  too  moist. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  in  March  or  April,  not  more  than 
one-sixteenth  of  an  inch  deep,  in  a  warm  greenhouse,  and  potted 
off  when  three  inches  high;  plant  them  in  permanent  quarters 
when  they  are  about  three  feet  in  height. 

SYRINGA   (Lilac). 


This   favorite  shrub,   which 

flowers  in  early  Spring,  should 

be  represented  in  every  garden 

however  small.    It  grows  freely 

in  any  good  garden  soil  but  will 

amply  repay  such  extra  attention 

as  it  may  receive  in  the  way  of 

the  removal  of  suckers  or  a  little 

additional  top  dressing. 

There  are  about  ten  species 

in  the  genus,  including  the  Per- 
sian (Syringa  Persica),  the 
European  (Syringa  vulgaris), 
and  the  Japanese  (Syringa  Ja- 

ponica).  These  species  have  a  number  of  varieties  in  many 
shades  of  color,  varying  from  the  deepest  purple  to  the  purest 
white. 

The  Lilac  is  easily  propagated  by  means  of  the  suckers  which 
are  produced  at  the  base  of  the  established  plant.  These  should 
be  taken  from  the  parent  plant  during  Winter  or  early  Spring 
and  placed  six  inches  apart  in  nursery  rows,  the  distance  between 
the  rows  being  two  feet.  Here  the  young  plants  should  remain 
until  they  are  required  for  permanent  planting. 


Syringa  vulgaris. 


[161] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


TAMARIX. 

No  shrub  is  better  adapted  to  the  planting  of  any  waste  spot 
or  for  the  filling  up  of  a  gap  on  the  bank  of  a  creek  or  where  some 
other  shrub  has  failed  to  grow.  It  stands  exposure  well,  grow- 
ing even  within  the  spray  of  salt  water  or  in  alkali  soil ;  in  fact, 
it  thrives  under  almost  any  conditions,  preferring  a  sandy  soil 
however,  and  a  situation  within  the  influence  of  the  sea  air. 

The  Tamarix  Gallica,  Tamarix  Orientalis,  Tamarix  plumosa, 
and  Tamarix  parriflora  are  all  very  desirable. 

Propagate  by  inserting  cuttings  into  sandy  soil  in  the  open 
ground  in  the  Winter  months. 

TAXODIUM  (Swamp  Cypress). 


An  excellent  tree  for  semi- 
aquatic  situations,  having  a  soft 
light-green  fern-like  foliage,  being 
very  graceful  in  habit  and  highly 
ornamental.  The  genus  comprises 
several  species  including  Taxo- 
dium  distichum  (from  Louisiana) 
and  Taxodium  mucronata,  the 
Montezuma  Cypress  ( from 
Mexico). 

Propagate  by  cuttings,  during 
the  Winter  months,  placed  in  a 
vessel  of  water  where  they  will 
root  in  a  few  weeks,  or  by  seeds 

sown  one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep  in  light  sandy  soil,  and  placed 

in  a  warm  greenhouse  in  Spring. 


Taxodium. 


162] 


Trees     and     Shrubs 


TAXUS  (fhe  Tew). 

The  Taxus  comprises  about  eight  species,  natives  of  the  East- 
ern States,  Europe  and  Japan,  one  being  indigenous  to  California 
while  another  is  a  native  of  Mexico. 

Taxus  baccata,  the  common  English  Yew,  is  indigenous  to 
most  of  the  countries  of  Europe,  and  extends  even  to  British 
India.  It  grows,  under  favorable  conditions,  to  the  height  of 
fifty  feet  with  a  trunk  five  feet  in  diameter.  It  has  many  vari- 
eties, including  Taxus  baccata  argentia  (having  leaves  striped 
with  silvery  white),  Taxus  baccata  aurea  (having  leaves  broadly 
edged  with  yellow; — this  being  a  very  desirable  variety  for 
planting  in  small  grounds  or  for  grouping  among  other  Yews 
in  larger  grounds)  and  Taxus  baccata  fastigiata,  the  Irish  Yew, 
or,  as  it  is  sometimes  named,  the  Florence  Court  Yew,  a  species 
much  used  in  formal  gardens. 

The  Yew  grows  in  any  soil  and  in  any  situation  not  too 
much  exposed  to  harsh  winds,  and  while  it  loves  a  semi-shady 
situation  on  the  bank  of  a  stream,  it  does  well  under  any  ordi- 
nary garden  conditions. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  one-sixteenth  of  an  inch  deep  in 
the  open  ground  in  Spring,  or  by  cuttings  inserted  in  September 
in  sandy  soil  in  a 'cool  frame  and  shaded  for  a  few  weeks  during 
hot  sunshine.  The  variegated  varieties  are  increased  by  grafting, 
in  Winter,  on  the  common  species.  They  may  also  be  propa- 
gated by  layering  in  Summer. 

TEMPLETONIA  (Coral  Bush). 

A  most  beautiful  ornamental  shrub  with  simple  leaves,  a 
dense  bushy  habit  and  pea-shaped  blossoms  of  bright  crimson. 
It  grows  easily  in  any  common  soil  and  with  very  little  irrigation, 
preferring  a  rather  dry  gravelly  soil  and  a  warm,  sheltered  situ- 
ation where  it  well  repays  any  attention  bestowed  upon  it. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  placed  in  sandy  leaf-mold  in  a  cold 
frame  in  September. 

[163] 


Gardening    in    California 


Thuya  gigantea. 


THUYA. 

A  genus  of  conifera  compris- 
ing about  a  dozen  species  of 
hardy  evergreen  trees  or  shrubs, 
natives  of  America  and  Asia,  two 
of  them  being  indigenous  to  the 
Pacific  Coast.  Thuya  gigantea, 
one  of  the  Coast  species,  is  a  tall 
handsome  evergreen  graceful  tree 
of  pyramidal  habit  with  some- 
what drooping  branches,  and 
grows,  under  favorable  circum- 
stances, from  one  hundred  to  two 
hundred  feet  high  with  a  diam- 
eter of  stem  from  three  to  six 
feet,  thriving  well  in  any  well-drained  garden  soil. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep  in 
boxes  filled  with  light  sandy  soil  in  a  cold  frame  in  early  Spring. 
Transplant  them  into  open  nursery  rows  when  they  are  three 
inches  high,  and  plant  them  in  their  permanent  quarters  when 
they  are  about  two  feet  high. 

The  Chinese  species  (Thuya  Orientalis),  of  a  dwarf  habit, 
is  much  used  in  cemeteries  and  formal  gardens,  its  formal  sym- 
metrical habit  making  it  a  favorite  in  that  style  of  gar- 
dening. Thuya  Occidentalis,  the  eastern  species,  grows  to  a 
height  of  about  sixty  feet,  and  forms  a  narrow  pyramidal  rather 
compact  head. 

The  different  species  have  many  garden  varieties,  and  a  num- 
ber of  them,  including  variegated  forms,  are  very  beautiful. 
These  are  propagated  by  cuttings  placed  in  sand  in  a  cold  frame 
in  the  Fall  or  by  grafting  on  the  original  species  in  early  Spring. 


[164 


Trees    and     Shrubs 


THUYOPSIS  DOLOBRATA. 

This  small  genus  comprises  only  a  few  species  natives  of 
Japan,  Their  foliage  is  much  like  that  of  the  Thuya  but  the 
habit  is  spreading  and  more  open.  They  make  handsome  rock- 
work  plants.  They  grow  easily  in  any  garden  soil. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  placed  in  a  cold  frame  in  sandy  soil 
mixed  with  leaf-mold,  in  October. 

TILIA  (Linden). 

The  Linden  is  one  of  the  most  desirable  of  the  large-growing 
trees,  being  symmetrical  and  formal  in  habit,  especially  when 
young.  As  a  single  specimen  on  the  lawn  or  as  an  avenue  tree 
it  is  unequalled.  It  loves  a  deep  light  loam  and  a  sheltered*  site. 

There  are  several  species,  one  a  native  of  the  Eastern  States 
and  one  of  Europe.  These  species  have  a  number  of  varieties, 
the  leaves  of  some  of  them  being  variegated. 

The  Linden  is  propagated  by  seeds  which  should  be  sown 
as  soon  as  ripe  in  the  open  ground  one-quarter  of  an  inch  deep. 

TORREYA  (False  Nutmeg  free). 


Ornamental  evergreen  trees  with 
spreading  branches  and  dark-green 
yew-like  foliage.  The  Torreyas  grow 
well  in  any  well-drained  soil  and 
make  handsome  specimens  for  the 
lawn,  either  singly  or  planted  in 
groups.  Our  native  species  (Torreya 
Coulterii)  the  handsomest  of  the 
genus,  grows  to  a  height  of  about  one 
hundred  feet;  Torreya  grandis  grows 
to  about  the  same  height  as  does  also 
the  Florida  species. 

All  are  propagated  by  seeds 

[165] 


Torreya  Coulterii. 


Gardening    in    Californi 


planted  one  inch  deep  and  three  inches  apart  in  the  open  ground 
in  early  Spring.  They  should  be  transplanted  into  nursery  rows 
the  following  Spring,  and,  when  from  eighteen  inches  to  two 
feet  high,  should  be  planted  where  they  are  to  remain. 

TRISTANIA. 

A  small  genus  of  Australian  trees  belonging  to  the  Myrtle 
family  having  leaves  about  eight  inches  in  length  and  oval  in 
shape.  When  full-grown,  the  Tristania  forms  a  stately  tree, 
being  evergreen  with  an  open  head,  and  should  make  a  good 
street  tree. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  in  Spring  (covering  the  seeds  very 
lightly  with  light  sandy  soil),  or  by  cuttings  of  half-ripe  wood 
in  the  Fall,  placed  in  sand  in  a  cold  frame  and  shaded  from  sun 
for  two  or  three  weeks.  When  they  are  rooted,  plant  them  in 
three-inch  pots,  giving  them  larger  pots  as  the  roots  require. 

ULMUS  (Elm). 


A  genus  comprising  about 
twenty  species  of  lofty  deciduous 
trees,  greatly  used  in  parks  and 
large  grounds  for  grouping,  and 
also  as  avenue  and  street  sidewalk 
trees.  In  good  soil  the  Elm  is  a 
rapid  grower. 

In  cultivating  the  Elm,  care 
should  be  taken  when  plowing  or 
spading  about  the  roots,  not  to  in- 
jure them,  for,  if  the  least  scratch 
or  bruise  is  made,  there  shoots  up 
a  bunch  of  suckers  which  are  diffi- 
cult to  get  rid  of. 
Ulmus  Americana,  Ulmus  campestris,  Ulmus  scabra,  and 

[166] 


Ulmus. 


Trees    and     Shrubs 


their  varieties  are  considered  the  best  species  for  general  planting. 
Propagate  by  seeds,  sown  one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep  in  the 
open  ground,  as  soon  as  ripe  which  is  generally  in  June;  or  by 
layers  or  suckers  in  Winter  or  early  Spring  before  the  buds  swell ; 
or  by  grafting  in  Winter;  or  by  budding  in  May. 


UMBELLULARIA  CALIFORNICA  (California  Laurel). 

This  genus  contains  but  one  species  and  is  found  only  on  the 
Pacific  Coast.  The  Laurel  is  one  of  our  grandest  evergreens, 
being  handsome  even  in  the  nursery;  when  from  fifteen  to  forty 
feet  high  it  forms  a  fine  pyramid,  and,  when  fully  grown  in 
favorable  soil,  is  a  magnificent  specimen.  It  loves  a  deep  well- 
drained  soil,  preferably  on  the  bank  of  a  stream. 

No  evergreen  tree,  native  or  exotic,  is  better  adapted  for 
forming  groups  of  dense  foliage  than  the  California  Laurel  if 
given  a  suitable  place.  In  the  hot  interior  valleys  it  is  apt  to  be 
attacked  by  scale,  so,  on  that  account,  should  be  given  a  shady 
situation  and  plenty  of  water  at  the  roots,  during  the  dry  season. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  in  early  Spring,  one  inch  deep  in 
the   open   ground.      Transplant 
them   into   nursery   rows   when 
the  young  plants  are  six  inches 
high. 


VERONICA. 

A  genus  comprising  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  species  of 
shrubs  or  herbs,  all  being  showy 
and  free-flowering  with  blue, 
crimson  or  white  flowers.  They 
grow  well  in  any  garden  soil  in 

[167] 


Veronica  d  ecus  sat  a. 


Gardening    in    California 


almost  any  situation,  either  in  the  sun  or  the  shade,  and  stand 
exposure  to  harsh  winds  better  than  most  shrubs.  Their  habit 
is  compact  and  very  well  adapted  to  finishing  groups  of  strong- 
growing  shrubs  or  trees,  connecting  perfectly  the  foliage  of  the 
strong-growing  upright-habited  with  the  grassy  slope  or  level 
lawn.  Their  foliage  is  smooth,  carries  no  dust  and  is  always 
glossy  and  fresh  looking.  They  flower  in  racemes  and  are  always 
in  bloom. 

The  shrubby  species  are  mostly  natives  of  New  Zealand. 

There  are  many  species  of  this  most  desirable  shrub,  includ- 
ing Veronica  Andersonii,  Veronica  buxifolio,  Veronica  decussata, 
Veronica  Colensoi,  Veronica  elliptica,  etc.,  all  being  excellent 
shrubs,  especially  for  the  coast  counties,  but  they  are  not  rec- 
ommended for  the  central  counties  unless  planted  under  the 
shade  of  trees  or  on  a  Northern  exposure. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  placed  in  light  sandy  soil  in  a  cold 
frame  in  September  or  October. 

VIBURNUM. 


A  genus  comprising  about 
eighty  species  of  deciduous  and 
evergreen  low  trees  and  shrubs, 
all  being  hardy  in  California. 
Many  of  the  species  are  highly 
ornamental,  Viburnum  tinus 
being  grown  in  almost  every 
garden  in  the  State,  while  Vi- 
burnum opulus  sterilis  (the 
Common  Snowball)  is  also  a 
universal  favorite.  No  decidu- 
ous flowering  shrub  is  better 
suited  to  the  planting  of  shrub- 
bery borders  than  the  Snowball,  its  many  varieties,  its  great 

[168] 


Viburnum  tinus. 


Trees    and     Shrubs 


masses  of  white  pendant  cymes  in  Spring,  and  its  beautiful  tinted 
leaves  in  the  Fall  making  it  most  desirable. 

These  excellent  qualities,  combined  with  its  easy  culture  in 
any  ordinary  soil  (although  it  prefers  a  moist  soil  and  partial 
shade),  should  commend  it  to  all  lovers  of  flowering  shrubs. 

In  addition  to  the  above  named,  Viburnum  Japonicum, 
Viburnum  tomentosum,  Viburnum  macrophyllum  (Chinese  Snow- 
ball) and  several  others  are  very  effective. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  of  ripe  wood  in  the  Fall,  or  by  seeds, 
sown  one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep  in  the  Spring,  or  by  layering1  in 
Summer,  all  in  the  open  ground. 

VlRGILIA    LUTE  A. 


The  Virgilia  is  one  of  our 
most  handsome  flowering  trees 
and  blooms  during  August  and 
September,  when  very  few  trees 
or  shrubs  are  showing  color,  thus 
being  a  most  desirable  tree  for 
the  garden.  It  grows  to  the 
height  of  about  forty  feet  and 
is  of  a  graceful  spreading  habit. 
With  its  deeply  cut  pinnate 
leaves,  when  laden  with  its  pan- 
icles of  pale  lilac-colored  flowers, 
it  makes  a  fine  effect  on  the 
lawn  or  in  the  shrubbery.  It 
thrives  in  any  well-drained  garden  soil. 

Propagate  by  seeds  which  should  be  sown,  in  Spring,  about 
one-quarter  of  an  inch  deep  in  the  open  ground.  When  one  year 
old,  the  seedlings  should  be  transplanted  into  nursery  rows.  Set 
them  twelve  inches  apart. 


Virgilia  lute  a. 


169] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

CLIMBERS  AND  TWINERS. 
AMPELOPSIS. 

AMPELOPSIS  is  a  genus  of  about  twenty  species  of  hardy 
deciduous  ornamental  climbers  which  grow  freely  in  any 
garden  soil,  all  being  rapid  growers  and  thriving  in  any 
position  or  aspect.     They  are  excellent  for  training  against  the 
walls  of  buildings,  and,  when  they  take  on  their  Autumn  tints  of 
bright  red  and  yellow,  present  a  striking  appearance. 

Ampelopsis  quinquefolia  (the  Virginia  creeper)  and  Am- 
pelopsis  tricuspidata  (the  Boston  Ivy)  are  the  most  useful. 

The  Ampelopsis  is  easily  propagated  by  seeds  sown  in 
Spring  one  eighth  of  an  inch  deep  in  a  cool  frame,  or  by  cuttings 
of  ripe  wood  placed  in  the  open  ground  in  sandy  soil  in 
September. 

ARISTOLOCHIA. 

A  genus  of  woody  twiners  with  irregular  and  grotesque 
flowers,  one  species  being  a  native  of  California.  Aristolochia 
sipho,  commonly  called  The  Dutchman's  Pipe,  is  a  very  rapid 
grower,  sometimes  making  over  twenty  feet  in  a  single  season. 

They  like  a  warm  sheltered  situation  and  plenty  of  water  at 
the  root  during  the  growing  season. 

Propagate  by  cuttings,  in  September,  placed  in  pots  filled 
with  sandy  leaf-mold,  in  a  cool  frame,  and  shaded  from  the 
sun  until  rooted;  when  they  are  rooted,  pot  them  in  three-inch 
pots  and  plant  them  out  the  following  Spring. 


Climbers    and    Twiner 


Bignonia   chercre. 


BIGNONIA  (trumpet  Vine). 

The  Bignonias  are  nearly  all 
either  climbers  or  twiners.  They 
are  vigorous  growers  and  have 
gorgeous  trumpet  or  funnel- 
shaped  flowers,  some  of  them 
possessing  flower- tubes  six 
inches  in  length. 

These  handsome  climbers 
are  excellent  plants  for  covering 
walls,  growing  over  old  stumps 
of  trees,  forming  screens  or  trel- 
lises, etc.  They  will  grow  in 
any  good  garden  soil,  preferring 
however  a  sheltered  situation. 
A  wall  facing  the  east  is  adapted  for  their  full  development. 

This  is  another  genus,  which  the  gardeners  of  California  have 
introduced  from  the  greenhouses  of  the  East  and  from  Europe, 
now  giving  splendid  effects  in  our  favored  State.  Bignonia 
Capreotata  (a  native  of  the  Southern  United  States)  is  one  of 
the  hardiest  and  has  orange-colored  flowers.  This  species  has  a 
variety,  with  dark-red  flowers,  also  a  very  desirable  climber. 
Bignonia  cherere  is  a  fine  species  bearing  quantities  of  brownish- 
orange  flowers.  Bignonia  diversifolia  bears  yellow  and  Bignonia 
floribunda  purple  flowers.  Bignonia  Tweediana,  one  of  the  best 
of  the  genus,  with  pretty  lance-shaped  leaves,  has  yellow  flowers 
and  is  an  elegant  climber  of  rapid  growth.  Bignonia  Venusta 
bears  glorious  masses  of  blossoms  and  should  be  in  every 
collection. 

The  Bignonia  is  propagated  by  cuttings  placed  in  a  cold  frame 
during  August  or  September  in  soil  composed  of  one-half  sand, 
one-quarter  leaf-mold  and  one-quarter  good  loam,  well  mixed 
together,  or  by  seeds  sown  in  Spring  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep. 

[171] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


BOUGAINVILLEA. 

The  Bougainvillea  is  justly 
classed  among  the  most  showy 
of  our  climbers,  and,  when 
planted  by  a  veranda  or  when 
allowed  to  climb  on  a  tall  tree  or 
building  gives  gorgeous  effects. 
This  climber  delights  in  a 
warm  sheltered  situation  and 
good  soil  with  a  reasonable 
amount  of  water  during  the 
summer  months.  There  are  sev- 
eral varieties,  all  of  which  are 
desirable,  including  Bougain- 
villea speciosa,  Bougainvillea 

Saunderiana,  Bougainvillea  glabra  and  Bougainvillea  lateritia. 
The  Bougainvillea  is  easily  increased  by  cuttings,  put  in  a 

frame  during  September  or  March  and  given  a  little  heat. 


Bougainvillea. 


CLEMATIS. 

The  Clematis  is  among  the 
most  beautiful  of  our  hardy 
climbers.  The  large-flowering  va- 
rieties are  unequaled  for  decorating 
the  porch  or  veranda  pillars.  The 
small-flowered  species,  such  as  the 
Clematis  paniculata,  should  be 
planted  at  the  base  of  a  tall  tree 
where  they  send  their  shoots  often  to 
a  height  of  fifty  feet  and  form  great 
masses  of  white  fragrant  blossoms. 

The  Clematis  thrives  in  any 
good  garden  soil  but  prefers  a  light 

[172] 


Clematis. 


Climbers    and    Twiner 


sandy  soil  well  enriched  by  old  manure  and  plenty  of  water 
during  the  growing  season.  Should  any  signs  of  mildew  appear, 
dust  with  flowers  of  sulphur  at  once,  so  as  to  stop  the  mildew 
from  spreading.  All  the  Clematis  flower  better  if  severely 
pruned  each  Fall  or  Winter  before  growth  commences. 

Propagate  the  finer  varieties  by  cuttings  or  by  grafting  on 
common  stock  in  Summer. 

COBAEA   SCANDENS. 

The  Cobsea  is  a  rampant-growing  soft-wooded  climber  with 
bell-shaped  flowers,  thriving  well  in  any  good  soil  but  pre- 
ferring a  sheltered,  sunny  situation. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  in  February,  one-eighth  of  an  inch 
deep  in  a  hotbed,  and  potted  off  in  three-inch  pots.  As  soon  as 
the  young  plants  have  filled  the  pots  with  roots,  gradually  harden 
them  by  placing  the  pots  in  a  cold  frame;  in  May,  plant  them 
out  where  they  are  to  remain. 

DOLICHOS. 

The  Dolichos  is  a  free-growing  ornamental  twiner  with  pea- 
shaped  flowers  and  pretty  light-green  foliage,  growing  freely  in 
any  soil  and  thriving  either  in  the  sun  or  in  the  shade. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  either  in  the  open  ground  in  early 
Spring  or  at  any  season  under  glass.  Cover  the  seeds  to  the  depth 
of  one-sixteenth  of  an  inch. 

ECCREMOCARPUS. 

A  genus  of  elegant  hardy  evergreen  climbers  with  yellow  or 
orange-red  flowers  tubular  shaped.  The  leaves  are  compound 
with  oval-shaped  leaflets.  They  are  excellent  for  covering  fences, 
walls,  etc.,  growing  freely  in  any  soil. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  placed  in  a  cold  frame  in  August  or 
September;  shade  them  during  sunshine  until  the  young  roots 
are  formed,  when  they  should  be  potted  off  into  three-inch  pots. 

[173] 


Gardening    in    California 

HEDERA  HELIX  (Ivy). 

Few  climbing  plants  will  be  found  more  useful  than  the  old- 
fashioned  Ivy  as  it  grows  in  any  soil  and  almost  any  aspect. 
It  is  good  for  covering  walls,  railings  or  rustic  houses,  and  makes 
excellent  bordering  for  walks  or  a  covering  for  bare  spots  under 
trees  where  few  other  plants  will  grow.  Should  the  leaves  get 
dusty,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  clip  off  all  the  leaves  annually,  about 
the  end  of  March  or  just  before  the  Spring  growth  begins,  and 
in  a  few  weeks  the  old  leaves  will  be  replaced  by  a  new  crop  of 
bright  clean  foliage. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  placed  in  the  open  ground  in  October 
or  November;  in  a  few  months  they  will  be  rooted  and  ready  to 
be  planted  in  their  permanent  places. 

IPOMOEA. 

The  Ipomcea  is  an  extensive  genus,  having  over  four  hundred 
species  of  twining  or  creeping  plants  whose  campanula  or  salver- 
shaped  blossoms  are  of  all  shades  of  purple,  red,  blue  or  white. 
They  are  among  the  prettiest  of  plants  for  covering  the  limbs  of 
old  trees,  trellises,  veranda  pillars,  etc.  All  of  the  species  may 
be  easily  raised  from  seeds  which  should  be  sown  in  early  Spring, 
one  eighth  of  an  inch  deep  in  four- inch  pots  filled  with  good 
loam  mixed  with  about  one- third  sand;  sow  three  seeds  in  each 
pot  and  place  the  pots  in  a  warm  place  under  glass.  When  the 
young  seedlings  are  about  six  inches  high  they  should  be  tied  to 
small  temporary  stakes  and  gradually  hardened  by  exposure  to 
the  open  air;  after  two  weeks'  exposure  to  the  open  they  are 
ready  to  be  planted  out. 

JASMINUM. 

The  Jasminum  are  well-known  plants  and  are  very  popular 
on  account  of  their  elegant  habit  and  sweet-scented  flowers. 
They  make  excellent  covering  for  fences,  trellises,  arbors,  etc., 
and  thrive  in  any  good  garden  soil. 

[i74l 


Climbers    and    Twiner 


Jasminum  nudiflorum  is  one  of  our  earliest  Spring-flowering 
plants,  often  opening  bright-yellow  flowers  as  early  as  January. 
Jasminum  officianale,  the  fragrant  common  Jasmine,  blooms 
continuously  from  early  Summer  until  late  in  the  Autumn. 

Propagate  by  layers  laid  in  an  inch  deep  in  ordinary  soil 
in  June,  or  by  cuttings  of  the  ripe  wood,  in  September,  inserted 
one  inch  deep  in  sandy  soil  in  a  cold  frame  or  in  the  open  ground; 
select  shoots  not  showing  flower  at  the  top. 

KENNEDYA. 

The  Kennedy  as  are  rapid-growing  hardy  twiners,  natives  of 
Australia;  they  like  a  warm  sunny  situation.  They  bear  pea- 
shaped  flowers,  reddish-brown  or  scarlet  in  color.  Any  good 
garden  soil  will  grow  them  well. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  in  early  Spring,  one-quarter  of  an 
inch  deep  in  a  warm  greenhouse  or  hotbed;  when  they  are  large 
enough  to  be  handled,  pot  them  singly  in  three  or  four-inch  pots ; 
gradually  harden  them  by  exposure  to  the  open  air  and  plant 
them  out,  when  they  show  signs  of  making  fresh  growth. 

LATHYRUS  ODORATUS  (Sweet  Pea). 

This  general  favorite  is  a 
native  of  the  Mediterranean 
islands  and  consequently  is  at 
home  in  the  climate  of  Califor- 
nia. It  thrives  well  in  any  good 
garden  soil, 'but,  in  order  to  ob- 
tain the  best  results  the  soil 
should  be  trenched  two  spades 
in  depth  and  four  inches  of  old 
manure  mixed  with  the  soil. 

In  addition  to  its  value  as  a 
garden  plant,  the  Sweet  Pea 
makes  a  very  good  window-box 

[175] 


Lathyrus  odoratus. 


Gardening    in    California 


plant,   its  fragrant  many-colored  flowers  spreading  a  pleasant 
odor  throughout  the  room  when  it  is  thus  grown. 

In  planting  the  Sweet  Pea  seeds,  form  with  a  hoe  or  shovel 
a  shallow  furrow  about  two  feet  wide  and  three  inches  deep,  in 
the  middle  of  which  draw  the  seed-drill  three  inches  deep.  In 
this  seed-drill  the  seeds  should  be  planted  about  three  inches  apart. 
When  the  young  plants  are  six  inches  high,  place  a  row  of  tree 
limbs  or  a  fence  of  wire  netting  alongside  them  so  that  they  may 
have  something  to  climb  over.  Also  spread  a  mulch  of  manure 
about  the  plants;  this  will  keep  the  ground  cool  and  preserve 
the  moisture.  Where  a  succession  of  bloom  is  desired,  the  seeds 
should  be  sown  about  three  times  a  year.  Seeds  which  are  sown 
during  Winter  or  early  Spring  should  have  a  covering  of  soil 
one  inch  deep  while  those  sown  in  Summer  or  early  Fall  should 
be  covered  to  the  depth  of  from  two  to  two  and  a  half  inches 
and  shaded  with  a  light  covering  of  straw  or  some  other  light 
material  until  the  seeds  come  through  the  surface. 


LONICERA,  (Honeysuckle). 


Lonicera. 


The  Honeysuckle  is  an  ex- 
tensive genus,  comprising  over 
eighty  species  of  hardy  decidu- 
ous or  evergreen  shrubs  or  climb- 
ers with  tubular-shaped  flowers, 
many  of  them  delightfully  frag- 
rant. They  are  well  suited  for 
covering  walls,  arbors,  and  trel- 
lises or  for  mixing  with  shrubs 
where  they  give  charming  natu- 
ral effects,  twining,  as  they  do, 
around  the  stems  and  forming  a 
carpet  to  the  ground  under  the 
shrubs. 
[176] 


C  1 


i  m 


e  r  s    an 


d    T 


winers 


The  fragrant-flowered  deciduous  English  or  common  Wood- 
bine and  the  evergreen  Japanese  species  are  among  the  best  of 
the  genus. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  of  the  ripe  wood  inserted  in  the  open 
ground  in  the  Fall. 


MANDEVILLEA  SUAVEOLENS. 

The  Mandevillea  is  one"  of  our 
most  handsome  climbers,  its  elegant 
twining  habit  and  its  pure  white  fra- 
grant flowers  making  it  very  desir- 
able for  training  against  walls  or 
trellises.  It  thrives  in  any  good  soil, 
but  should  not  be  grown  in  cold  ex- 
posed situations. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  one- 
eighth  of  an  inch  deep,  in  heat  in 
early  Spring;  plant  them  singly  in 
small  pots  as  soon  as  they  are  large 
enough  to  be  handled;  gradually 
harden  them  off  and  plant  them  out  in  early  Summer. 


Mandevillea  suaveolens. 


MAURANDYA. 

The  Maurandyas  are  very  pretty  climbers  with  small  heart- 
shaped  leaves  and  funnel-shaped  flowers.  They  are  easily  grown 
if  given  a  sheltered  spot  away  from  harsh  winds. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  in  March,  one-sixteenth  of  an 
inch  deep,  in  a  cool  frame  or  greenhouse;  when  they  have  made 
four  leaves,  transplant  them  into  either  pots  or  boxes;  after 
gradually  exposing  them  to  the  open  air  to  be  hardened,  plant 
them  where  they  are  to  remain. 


Gardening    in    California 


MUEHLENBECKIA. 

This  is  a  genus  comprising  about  fifteen  species  of  hardy 
shrubs,  mostly  natives  of  Australia  and  New  Zealand.  They  are 
of  very  easy  culture,  thriving  in  any  fair  garden  soil  and  a  sunny 
situation. 


Muehlenbeckia  complexa. 

Muehlenbeckia  complexa  is  one  of  the  best  of  our  hardy 
climbers,  being  excellent  for  growing  over  rocky  ledges,  old 
stumps,  etc.,  for  hanging  or  drooping  over  the  rims  of  vases  or 
for  hanging  over  walls.  Its  habit  is  dense.  On  account  of  its 
distinct  form,  the  brownish  color  of  its  leaves  and  its  heavy 
spray-like  branches  it  is  very  valuable  for  cutting. 

This  climber  is  propagated  by  cuttings  placed  in  a  cold  frame 
in  September  and  shaded  during  sunshine  until  well  rooted. 


178] 


Climbers    and    Twiners 


PASSIFLORA. 

A  large  genus  of  highly  interesting  climbers  of  rapid  growth, 
mostly  natives  of  tropical  America.  They  are  noted  for  their 
elegant  habit  and  gorgeous  flowers,  making  grand  effects  when 
planted  at  the  base  of  an  old  Pine  or  Oak  tree  and  allowed  to 
twine  along  the  branches  of  the  tree  and  to  hang  down  in  long 
pendants  laden  with  their  gaily-colored  oddly-shaped  flowers. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  placed  in  light  sandy  soil  in  a  cold 
frame  in  September;  pot  them  into  three-inch  pots  and  plant 
them  out  in  the  early  Spring. 


SOLANUM. 

The  Solanum  Wendlandii  is  one  of  the  best  of  the  climbers, 
no  one  of  its  color  giving  so  good  results  when  it  has  been  put  in 
a  suitable  place,  its  lilac-blue  flowers  producing  gorgeous  effects 
for  several  months  of  the  year.  It  delights  in  a  well-protected 
sunny  situation  and  a  fairly  good  soil. 

Solanum  jasminoides,  (the  common  Potato  Vine)  is  also 
very  desirable.  This  species  is  much  hardier  than  the  former  and 
will  grow  well  in  almost  any  soil  or  situation,  preferably  how- 
ever at  the  base  of  an  old  tree;  hanging  from  the  branches  it  is 
very  effective. 

The  Solanum  is  propagated  by  cuttings  which  should  be 
placed  in  sandy  soil  in  a  warm  frame  in  August. 


179] 


Gardening    in    California 


WISTARIA. 

This  beautiful  Spring-flowering  climber  is  so 
well  known  as  hardly  to  require  any  description. 
The  genus  contains  about  five  species.  Wistaria 
speciosa  is  a  native  of  North  America  and  blooms 
a  month  later  than  Wistaria  Sinensis,  a  native  of 
China,  which  is  the  species  most  grown.  Wistaria 
Japonica  and  Wistaria  mutijuga,  (the  former 
bearing  white  flowers  and  the  latter  lilac  flowers 
with  purple  wings)  are  natives  of  Japan.  These 
again  have  varieties  which  bear  double  flowers. 
The  Wistaria  delights  in  a  light  and  rich  soil, 
and,  if  given  this,  will  produce  branches  sometimes 
a  hundred  feet  in  length  on  each  side  of  the  main 
stem,  giving  gorgeous  masses  of  bloom  in  the 
early  Spring. 

The  Wistaria  forms  great  bundles  of  small  growths  which 
often  become  matted  under  the  eaves  of  buildings  or  about  the 
stems  of  old  trees.  Where  they  grow  freely,  these  matted 
growths  should,  in  Winter,  or  before  growth  commences  in  early 
Spring,  be  carefully  disentangled  and  all  of  the  weaker  growths 
should  be  pruned  back  to  a  strong  spur  or  bud,  the  remaining 
branches  being  laid  in  and  fastened  by  ties  to  the  wall  or  other 
support,  not  closer  together,  however,  than  twelve  inches. 

Propagation  of  the  Wistaria  is  effected  most  easily  by  seeds 
sown  during  early  Spring,  one-half  of  an  inch  deep,  in  a  warm 
frame  or  greenhouse,  or  by  layering  in  June. 


Wistaria. 


[180 


Bulbous  and  Tuberous   Rooted   Plants 


CHAPTER     IX. 

BULBOUS   AND   TUBEROUS   ROOTED   PLANTS. 
AGAPANTHUS. 

THE  African  lily  is  one  of  our  favorite 
bulbous-rooted  plants,  with  luxuriant  yet 
graceful    foliage    and    great    umbels    of 
bright  blue  or  white  flowers  in  clusters  of  from 
twenty  to  thirty  measuring  over  a  foot  across. 
It  makes  a  fine  showing  in  the  flower-border  or 
on  the  lawn.    It  thrives  best  in  deep  rich  loamy 
soil,  well  enriched  with  manure,  and  can  hardly 
receive    too    much    water    during    the    growing 
season. 

Propagate  by  offsets  or  by  dividing  the  old 
plants  into  single  crowns  and  planting  them  in 
March. 

AMARYLLIS. 


Agapanthus. 


The  Amaryllis  are  among  the  most  gorgeous  of  our  bulbous 
flowering  plants.  Some  of  the  genus,  such  as  Amaryllis  bella- 
donna, have  the  flowering  season  over  before  the  leaves  appear. 
Their  tall  stems  (large  heads  of  fragrant  and  beautiful  pink 
flowers)  make  them  great  favorites  for  cutting  and  for  filling 
vases.  They  delight  in  soil  of  a  light  rich  nature,  in  which 
they  should  be  planted  about  eight  inches  deep  and  left  undis- 
turbed for  years,  where  they  will  ultimately  establish  themselves 
and  produce  grand  masses  of  bloom.  During  dry  weather  and 
until  they  have  perfected  their  foliage,  they  should  be  given  an 
abundance  of  water,  after  which  they  do  not  require  so  much, 
and  it  may  gradually  be  withdrawn  altogether. 


Gardening    in    Californi 


Vallota  purpurea  and  Imantophyllum  miniatum  will  be 
found  to  do  excellently  if  given  a  warm  sheltered  situation  and  a 
rich  loamy  soil.  Plant  the  Vallota  bulbs  six  inches  apart  and  the 
Imantophyllums  twelve  inches  apart,  one-half  of  the  bulb  being 
above  ground. 

Propagate  by  dividing  the  bulbs  and  planting  them  in  March, 
or  by  seeds  collected  as  soon  as  ripe  in  the  Fall  and  sown  in  a 
warm,  sheltered  border  or  cold  frame  in  early  Spring;  cover  the 
seeds  to  the  depth  of  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch. 

CALOCHORTUS  (Mariposa  Lily). 

Handsome  native  bulbous  plants  with  showy  flowers  and 
erect  flower-stems.  There  are  about  twenty  varieties,  all  of 
which  are  very  beautiful.  They  require  a  good  strong  loam  of 
considerable  depth  to  grow  well.  Pasture  fields  are  the  native 
homes  of  the  Mariposa  Lilies. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  in  early  Spring,  in  light  loam,  cover- 
ing the  seeds  to  the  depth  of  one-eighth  of  an  inch,  or  by  division 
of  the  bulbs  which  should  be  taken  up  as  soon  as  the  leaves  turn 
yellow  and  the  bulbs  are  in  a  dormant  state.  Keep  the  bulbs 
in  a  cool  dry  position  covered  by  light  loam  or  sand  to  prevent 
them  shrinking,  as  leaving  'them  all  Winter  in  paper  bags  or  in 
dry  sheds  seems  to  dry  them  too  much  and  to  weaken  their 
growth  the  following  year.  Plant  them  immediately  after  the 
first  Fall  rains,  from  six  to  twelve  inches  apart  and  from  two  to 
three  inches  deep.  Select  a  spot  away  from  artificial  irrigation. 
On  no  account  disturb  the  bulbs  and  they  will  give  improved 
flowers  year  by  year. 


182] 


Bulbous  and  Tuberous  Rooted  Plants 


CROCUS. 

This  well-known  genus  is  among  the  earliest  of  our  Spring 
flowers,  often  opening  its  flower-scapes  the  first  week  in  January. 
It  prefers  a  light,  rich,  loamy  soil  and  a  sheltered  situation. 

After  they  are  done  blooming  and  the  leaves  turn  yellow, 
the  bulbs  should  be  taken  up. 

Propagate  by  dividing  the  bulbs  when  they  are  in  a  dormant 
state;  keep  them,  in  a  cool  dry  place,  covered  with  dry  soil  until 
the  next  planting  season  in  October  or  the  early  part  of  Novem- 
ber; plant  them  about  three  inches  deep. 

The  Crocus  may  also  be  propagated  by  seeds  sown  about  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  deep,  as  soon  as  ripe  or  in  early  Spring,  in 
light  rich  soil,  and  left  in  the  seed-bed  for  two  years  when  the 
young  corms  may  be  separated  and  transplanted. 

HYACINTH. 

In  the  cultivation  of  this  handsome  bulbous  plant,  a  light 
rich  soil  should  be  provided,  and  firm,  solid  bulbs  of  good  size 
selected;  soft  spongy  bulbs  give  weak  stems  and  poor  flowers. 
Plant  the  bulbs  about  eight  inches  apart,  and  three  inches  deep, 
placing  a  little  sand  in  the  hole  before  planting.  The  latter  end 
of  October  or  the  first  week  in  November  will  be  found  the  best 
time  to  plant.  As  soon  as  the  flower-spikes  are  from  six  to  eight 
inches  high  they  should  be  neatly  staked  to  prevent  the  flowers 
being  broken  by  their  own  weight;  should  the  weather  continue 
dry  in  Spring  or  while  they  are  in  bloom,  they  should  be  watered 
freely  as  any  dryness  at  the  root  will  weaken  the  growth  and 
shorten  their  season  of  bloom.  As  soon  as  the  foliage  is  ripe  or 
turned  yellow  in  color,  the  bulbs  should  be  taken  up  and  the 
foliage  cleaned  off;  when  they  are  thoroughly  dry,  they  should 
be  packed  in  boxes  filled  with  dry  soil  and  laid  away  in  a  cool 
dry  place  until  the  following  season. 

[183] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


Propagate  by  dividing  the  bulbs,  taking  the  offsets  from  the 
old  bulbs  as  soon  as  they  are  taken  up;  place  the  offsets  in 
separate  boxes  and  plant  them,  in  small  beds  or  borders,  two 
inches  deep  in  light  rich  soil.  They  flower  the  third  year. 

IRIS. 

The  Iris  belongs  to  a  genus  of  over  one 
hundred  species  of  hardy  herbaceous  plants  with 
creeping  or  tuberous  root-stocks.  The  Iris  is 
found  naturally  all  over  the  Temperate  Zone, 
in  America,  from  Canada  to  California,  and  in 
Europe  from  Russia  to  sunny  Spain,  while  the 
gorgeous  Iris  kaempferi  and  Iris  tectorum  come 
to  us  from  Japan;  others  are  natives  of  Siberia, 
and  quite  a  few  are  from  China. 

The  Iris  delights  in  a  deep  rich  clayey  soil, 
preferably  alongside  the  bed  of  a  stream  or 
canal  or  on  the  banks  of  a  pool  or  lake  where 
the  moisture  rises  within  two  feet  of  the  surface. 
If  these  conditions  are  not  available,  a  bed 

should  be  prepared  by  trenching  the  soil  two  feet  deep  and 

mixing  the  soil  freely  with  old  decomposed  manure. 

Plant  the  bulbs  or  roots  so  that  about  one  inch  of  soil  covers 

the  crown,  and  give  them  water  copiously  during  the  growing 

season. 

Iris  Germanica,  Iris  Florentini,  Iris  Susiana,  and  the  dwarf 

Iris  pumila,  besides  many  others,  are  well  worthy  of  prominent 

positions  in  our  gardens  and  pleasure-grounds. 

Propagate  by  division  of  the  roots  or  bulbs  in  early  Spring, 

or  by  sowing  the  seeds  in  light  sandy  soil  in  either  a  cold  frame 

or  a  sheltered  border  as  soon  as  the  seeds  are  ripe.     Cover  the 

seeds  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep. 


Iris. 


Bulbous  and  Tuberous  Rooted  Plants 


IXIA. 

This  beautiful  Spring-flowering  bulb  is  most  useful  for  giving 
a  fine  effect  in  Spring  and  early  Summer  from  its  elegant  habit, 
its  graceful  flower-stalks  and  its  rich  and  varied  colors,  the 
center  of  the  flowers  always  differing  in  shades  from  the  other 
parts. 

The  genus  contains  about  twenty-five  species  of  easy  culture 
in  any  good  garden  soil. 

In  October  or  early  in  November  plant  the  bulbs  about  six 
inches  deep;  as  soon  as  the  leaves  turn  yellow  take  up  the  bulbs 
and  store  them  in  a  cool  dry  place  until  the  next  planting  season. 

Propagation  by  offsets  is  the  quickest  method  of  increasing 
the  number  of  plants;  they  may  be  secured  in  quantity  after  the 
parent  bulbs  have  ripened  off;  store  them  in  a  cool  dry  place 
until  the  planting  season;  plant  the  offsets  in  a  sheltered  position 
about  three  inches  apart  for  one  season;  the  second  year  they  will 
bloom  and  may  be  planted  in  their  blooming  quarters. 

They  may  also  be  propagated  by  seeds  which  should  be  sown 
in  pans  or  boxes  about  September  and  placed  in  a  cold  frame; 
cover  the  seeds  to  the  depth  of  one-quarter  of  an  inch ;  the  second 
year  plant  the  young  bulbs  a  few  inches  apart  in  a  sheltered  spot, 
taking  up  the  bulbs  as  soon  as  ripe  and  storing  them  until  plant- 
ing time.  They  will  bloom  the  third  year. 

KNIPHOFIA   (Redhot  Poker  Plant). 

This  handsome  stately  herbaceous  plant  is  a  general  favorite 
on  account  of  its  striking  color  and  adaptability  to  almost  any 
soil  or  position,  doing  well  in  poor  soil  although  it  prefers  rich 
loam.  Even  on  our  rocky  dry  hillsides  it  struggles  along  and 
boldly  sends  up  its  large  tufts  of  long  narrow  leaves  and  stately 
flower-stalks  covered  with  scarlet  or  yellow  blossoms  until  late 
in  the  season. 

[185] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


Propagate  by  dividing  the  crowns  in  early  Spring,  planting 
them  where  wanted  to  flower,  which  they  will  do  the  succeeding 
Summer  and  Fall.  Cover  the  crowns  to  the  depth  of  one  inch. 

LILIUM  (Lily). 

Lilies  are  matchless  among  hardy  bulbs  for  beauty  of  form 
and  variety  of  color  and  also  for  the  length  of  their  blooming 
season.  They  delight  in  a  cool  fresh  soil  and  a  sheltered  semi- 
shaded  situation;  grouped  among  tall  shrubs  they  show  to  good 
advantage.  After  the  stems  are  well-formed  and  about  one  foot 
high,  give  them  a  good  top-dressing  of  well-decomposed  manure 
about  three  inches  deep  all  over  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and 
abundance  of  water  until  the  flowering  season  is  over  when  water 
should  be  gradually  withdrawn  so  as  to  encourage  the  ripening 
of  the  bulbs. 

They  are  increased  by  taking  the  small  bulblets  which  form 
about  the  old  bulbs  (as  soon  as  the  bulbs  are  ripe  which  is  shown 
by  the  leaves  and  stems  turning  yellow  and  dropping  off)  and 
planting  them  half  an  inch  deep  in  separate  beds  in  light  rich 
soil,  growing  them  on  until  they  are  large  enough  to  bloom, 
when  they  may  be  planted  out  in  the  beds  or  borders  where 
they  are  to  flower.  When  the  young  bulblets  are  taken  up  they 
should  be  transplanted  into  their  new  quarters  without  any  delay, 
as  exposure  to  drying  wind  or  being  allowed  to  lie  any  length 
of  time  in  a  dry  atmosphere  (even  if  in  a  shed  or  shaded  situa- 
tion) has  a  weakening  effect  on  their  future  growth. 

With  a  good  selection  of  the  many  gorgeous  species,  Lilies 
may  be  had  in  bloom  for  several  months.  Among  the  earliest- 
flowering  kinds  may  be  mentioned  Lilium  candidum  (St.  Joseph's 
Lily),  and  our  splendid  natives  Lilium  Washingtonianum, 
Lilium  Pardalinum,  and  Lilium  Humboldtii;  following  them, 
Lilium  tigrinum,  Lilium  lancefolium  and  its  varieties  the  splen- 
did Lilium  auratum  and  the  tall  and  stately  Lilium  giganteum, 
besides  many  others  equally  beautiful. 

[186] 


Bulbous  and  Tuberous  Rooted  Plants 


MONTBRETIA. 

This  hardy  free-flowering  bulbous  plant  is  a  native  of  South 
Africa  and  grows  to  the  height  of  about  two  and  one-half  feet. 
It  thrives  well  in  any  good  garden  soil  and  increases  rapidly,  its 
roots  spreading  freely.  It  requires  little  attention  beyond  getting 
a  plentiful  supply  of  water  until  the  blooming  season  is  over 
when  the  water  may  be  gradually  withdrawn.  It  should  be 
taken  up  and  replanted  about  March  in  every  third  year.  The 
roots  get  so  thickly  matted  together  by  that  time  that  the  ground 
becomes  impoverished,  the  result  being  small  and  imperfect 
flowers  and  foliage.  The  Montbretias  make  excellent  plants  for 
carpeting  in  groups  of  young  shrubs  which  still  show  bare  ground 
between  the  plants. 

Propagate  in  early  Spring  by  dividing  the  roots  and  planting 
them  twelve  inches  apart  in  bunches  of  from  three  to  six  bulbs 
each.  Cover  them  to  the  depth  of  half  an  inch. 

NARCISSUS  (Daffodil). 

A  genus  of  popular  hardy  Spring- 
flowering  plants  with  handsome  white  or 
yellow  flowers.  They  are  excellent  for 
filling  beds  or  borders  and  make  fine  ef- 
fects when  planted  in  apparently  natural 
groups  in  the  lawn. 

When  planting  them  in  the  lawn, 
avoid  symmetrical  lines  or  formal  shapes 
as  far  as  possible,  a  good  plan  being  to 
take  the  bulbs  in  the  hand  and  to  scatter 
them  freely,  planting  them  where  they 
fall.  When  planting  in  the  grass,  take 
up  a  piece  of  the  sod  about  three  inches  in 
diameter  and  six  inches  deep;  in  the 

bottom  place  about  an  inch  of  light  rich  soil,  then  plant  the  bulb, 

[187] 


Narcissus. 


Gardening    in    Californi 


fill  in  another  three  inches  of  soil,  and,  on  top  of  this,  replace 
the  sod  which  should  be  root-trimmed  to  one  inch  thick,  leaving 
the  lawn  level  and  smooth  as  before  digging. 

When  planting  groups  in  the  herbaceous  or  mixed  border, 
if  possible  give  them  a  partially  shaded  situation,  making  the 
groups  of  irregular  outline  and  seeing  that  each  group  contains 
one  variety  only. 

The  best  soil  for  the  Daffodils  is  a  deep  rich  brown  loam 
which  has  been  freely  manured  the  previous  Spring,  and  from 
which  a  crop  of  some  annual  flowers  has  been  gathered.  In 
August,  after  clearing  off  the  asters,  stocks  and  other  Summer- 
flowering  plants,  spade  the  ground  over  to  the  depth  of  at  least 
one  foot,  leave  the  ground  open  for  two  or  three  weeks,  rake  the 
surface  over  and  plant  the  Narcissus  bulbs  from  four  to  six  inches 
deep  and  from  eight  to  twelve  inches  apart. 

As  soon  as  the  flowering  season  is  over,  and  the  foliage  is 
ripe,  which  will  be  shown  by  the  leaves  becoming  yellow,  the 
bulbs  should  be  dug  up  and  stored  away  (after  removing  the 
dry  leaves)  in  boxes  filled  with  dry  soil  and  kept  in  a  cool  dry 
cellar  until  September  or  October,  when  they  should  be  replanted 
where  they  are  wanted  for  effect  the  following  Spring,  or,  if  the 
space  is  not  required,  the  bulbs  may  be  left  in  the  ground  and  will 
give  good  results  the  following  season. 

The  usual  mode  of  propagation  is  by  offsets  which  should  be 
separated  from  the  parent  bulbs  during  the  dormant  season  and 
planted  out  separately  for  a  year  in  order  that  they  may  grow 
large  enough  for  flowering.  They  may  also  be  raised  from  seeds 
but  the  process  is  a  slow  one.  The  seeds  should  be  sown  as  soon 
as  ripe  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep  in  light  loamy  soil,  in  pans  or 
boxes;  the  second  year  plant  out  the  young  bulblets  about  two 
inches  apart  and  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep  in  a  prepared  border. 
The  third  year  plant  them  in  their  flowering  quarters  as  before 
directed. 

F  188! 


Bulbous  and  Tuberous  Rooted  Plants 


NARCISSUS  JONQUILLA  (Jonquil). 

Jonquils  are  now  classed  under  the  head  of  Narcissus,  thriv- 
ing under  the  same  treatment  as  the  daffodils.  Although  not 
so  large-growing  as  some  of  the  Narcissus,  they  are  much  admired 
for  their  delicate  fragrance  and  the  bright  golden  color  of  their 
long  narrow  tubular  necks  and  their  saucer-shaped  crowns. 

They  should  be  planted  about  the  middle  of  November. 

POLIANTHES  TuBEROSA   (^fuberOSe). 

This  beautiful  Autumn-blooming  tuberous-rooted  plant  is 
a  native  of  our  sister  republic,  Mexico,  and  thrives  well  in  our 
warmer  valleys  and  in  sheltered  situations  in  the  coast  counties. 
It  prefers  a  sandy  loam  generously  enriched,  which  should  be 
well-cultivated  by  the  soil  being  stirred  and  the  surface  hoed 
after  each  watering.  Plant  the  tubers  twelve  inches  apart,  in 
early  Spring,  about  one  inch  of  soil  covering  the  bulbs.  They 
are  much  used  in  pi  anting*  in  clumps  in  flower-borders  and  shrub- 
beries. 

Propagate  in  Winter  by  dividing  the  bulbs. 

RANUNCULUS  ASIATICUS. 

There  are  two  forms  of  this  lovely  Spring-flowering  Ranun- 
culus, viz.,  the  Persian  and  the  Turban.  The  Persian  has  a  com- 
pact symmetrical  habit,  the  Turban  being  more  spreading  and 
larger  every  way;  the  flowers  of  both  sections  are  very  beautiful 
and  they  both  make  excellent  bedders.  Both  have  numerous 
varieties  and  range  in  color  from  white,  through  all  shades  of 
browns  and  yellows,  to  scarlet,  or  they  are  speckled  and  striped 
most  charmingly. 

They  thrive  best  in  a  rich  light  soil  well  mixed  with  old  cow- 
manure  ;  they  should  be  carefully  watered  during  dry  weather — 

[189] 


Gardening    in    California 


not  overwatered,  however,  as  they  abhor  stagnant  moisture,  too 
much  water  causing  their  foliage  to  become  yellow  and  the 
flowers  to  become  weak  and  short-lived. 

As  soon  as  the  flowering  season  is  over  and  the  leaves  are 
ripe,  take  the  roots  up,  remove  the  foliage,  dry  the  little  bulblets 
and  store  them  away  in  boxes  filled  with  dry  soil  in  a  cool  cellar 
until  planting  time  arrives  which  should  be  in  November,  In 
planting,  set  them  out  about  six  inches  apart  and  two  inches 
deep,  care  being  taken  to  plant  them  with  their  crowns  uppermost. 

Propagate  by  dividing  the  claw-like  tubers  as  soon  as  ripe, 
which  is  generally  early  in  June.  They  flower  the  second  year. 

RICHARDIA  ETHIOPICA  (Call a  Lily). 

This  genus  comprises  five  species  of  hardy  South  African 
Aroides,  all  having  handsome  foliage  and  tall-growing  elegant 
flower-spathes.  They  are  of  easy  cultivation  if  given  plenty  of 
moisture;  a  light  sandy  soil,  if  well  manured,  suits  them  very 
well,  but  they  also  seem  to  thrive  in  heavy  muck  or  loam  if 
given  plenty  of  water,  or  if  partially  submerged  and  treated  as 
a  semi-aquatic. 

Propagate  by  offsets  or  by  dividing  the  roots,  in  Winter  or 
early  Spring;  plant  about  one  foot  apart,  covering  the  tops  one  or 
two  inches  deep. 

SCILLA  (Wood  Hyacinth). 

The  Scillas  are  among  the  most  beautiful  of  our  hardy  Spring- 
flowering  plants.  Some  of  the  species,  being  natives  of  Spain 
and  Portugal,  are  specially  adapted  for  growing  here  in  Cali- 
fornia. They  thrive  well  in  any  good  garden  soil,  although  soil 
of  a  light  sandy  loam  seems  to  suit  them  best.  In  September, 
plant  them  six  inches  deep  where  wanted  to  bloom,  selecting 

[190] 


Bulbous  and  Tuberous  Rooted   Plants 


any  out-of-the-way  spot  under  the  shade  of  trees,  even  the  shade 
of  the  heaviest  Pines,  where  few  other  plants  will  thrive.  There 
are  several  fine  species  including  many  colors. 

Scilla  Campanulata  and  its  variously-colored  varieties  make 
charming  and  effective  groups  in  flower-borders  and  shrubberies. 

Propagate  in  the  dormant  season  by  separating  the  offsets 
from  the  parent  bulbs  and  growing  them  on  in  a  separate  bed  or 
border  for  one  year.  The  following  season  they  should  be  ready 
to  be  planted  where  they  are  to  bloom. 

TIGRIDIA. 

Few  flowers  are  more  gorgeously  colored  or  more  beautiful 
than  this  hardy  vigorous-growing  bulbous  plant.  It  thrives  well 
in  any  good  soil  and  a  warm  sheltered  situation.  Plant  the  bulbs 
about  three  inches  deep  and  six  inches  apart,  in  September  or 
October. 

Propagate  either  by  seeds  sown  in  early  Spring,  covering  the 
seeds  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  deep,  or  by  offsets  taken  from 
the  old  bulbs  during  the  dormant  season. 

TULIPS. 

These  well-known  hardy  Spring-flowering  bulbs  are  very 
popular  for  the  decoration  of  our  gardens,  and,  where  a  good  col- 
lection is  grown,  may  be  had  in  bloom  from  February  to  June. 
They  thrive  well  in  any  good  light  loam,  and,  in  October  or  early 
in  November,  should  be  planted  from  three  to  four  inches  deep 
where  they  are  to  bloom;  plant  them,  with  a  trowel,  about  eight 
inches  apart. 

After  they  have  finished  blooming,  and  their  leaves  become 
brown,  the  bulbs  should  be  taken  up  from  the  soil  and  laid  singly 
in  a  cool  shaded  airy  shed  until  thoroughly  ripened,  when  they 
should  be  stored  in  shallow  boxes  and  placed  in  an  airy  dark  dry 
cellar  until  the  planting  season. 

[191] 


Gardening    in    California 


In  planting,  care  should  be  taken  to  plant  in  the  same  bed 
those  varieties  which  bloom  early,  the  same  rule  being  followed 
with  those  which  bloom  later,  for,  if  the  late-blooming  varieties 
were  planted  among  those  which  flower  in  February,  or  March, 
the  result  would  be  disappointing  as  the  early  species  would  be 
out  of  flower  and  their  foliage  would  be  brown  before  the  late- 
blooming  species  began  to  show  color. 

Propagate  by  offsets  taken  from  the  parent  bulbs  when  they 
are  lifted;  these  offsets  should  be  grown  by  themselves  until  large 
enough  for  flowering. 


192 


Palms 


CHAPTER   X. 

PALMS. 

ARECA  SAPIDA. 

THIS  very  ornamental  genus  of  Palm  is  a  native  of  New 
Zealand  and  is  not  hardy  where  the  temperature  falls 
below   twenty-eight   degrees   Fahrenheit.      From   Santa 
Barbara  south  it  forms  grand  specimens,  and  also  in  some  favored 
localities  farther  north  if  planted  under  the  shade  of  other  trees 
and  away  from  cold  draughts.     It  thrives  best  in  a  light  sandy 
soil  well  enriched  with  old  well-decomposed  manure. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  in  February  or  March,  one  inch 
deep  in  a  hotbed  or  in  a  warm  greenhouse.  When  the  seedlings 
are  about  four  inches  high,  plant  them  in  three-inch  pots  and  give 
them  more  room  as  growth  advances. 

CHAMAEROPS. 

The  Chamserops  are  among  the  hardiest  of  our  fan  Palnis 
while  they  are  also  free-growing  and  easily  transplanted.  Cha- 
mserops humilis,  which  is  a  native  of  the  Mediterranean  regions, 
is  of  a  dwarf  habit;  Chamserops  excelsa,  which  is  from  China, 
is  of  a  more  stately  habit,  sometimes  attaining  a  height  of  thirty 
feet  and  growing  handsome  crowns  of  deeply  cut  fan-shaped 
leaves. 

They  delight  in  plenty  of  water  and  a  well-drained  soil. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  one  inch  deep,  in  heat,  in  early 
Spring;  when  they  are  four  inches  high,  pot  them  in  three-inch 
pots;  when  they  are  one  year  old,  plant  them  in  the  open  ground 
in  nursery  rows.  They  may  also  be  propagated  by  suckers  taken 
from  the  base  of  old  plants  in  early  Spring. 

[193] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


Cocos. 

Cocos  australis,  the  hardiest  of  the  genus,  is  worthy  of  more 
attention  from  planters  than  it'has  received  in  the  past  and  should 
do  well  in  all  of  our  valley  counties.  Cocos  plumosa,  a  native  of 
Southern  Brazil,  does  surprisingly  well  in  Southern  California 
from  Santa  Barbara  south,  where  avenues  of  them  may  be  seen. 
They  frequently  attain  a  height  of  forty  feet  and  make  grand 
objects  of  stately  beauty. 

Propagate  by  seeds  planted,  in  March,  one  inch  deep  in  a 
warm  greenhouse  and  grown  on  in  pots  until  four  feet  high  when 
they  may  be  planted  out  of  doors,  in  a  situation  protected  from 
frosts  and  harsh  winds,  until  large  enough  to  be  planted  in  their 
permanent  quarters. 

ERYTHEA. 

The  Erytheas  are  natives  of  this  coast  and  perfectly  hardy 
in  all  the  valley  and  coast  counties,  so  grow  well  in  any  garden 
soil  with  ordinary  treatment. 

Erythea  armata,  commonly  called  the  Blue  Palm,  is  of  slow 
growth  and  very  distinct  in  habit  and  in  the  color  of  its  leaves 
which  are  of  a  bluish  grey  and  deeply  cut.  Erythea  edulis  is  a 
much  quicker  grower,  having  larger  leaves  of  deep  green. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  in  Spring,  one  inch  deep  in  a  warm 
greenhouse  or  in  a  mild  hotbed  and  grown  in  pots  for  at  least  one 
year  when  they  may  be  planted  in  the  nursery. 

JUBEA. 

Jubea  spectabilis  or  Wine  Palm  of  Chile  is  one  of  our  hardiest 
palms,  growing  well  even  in  San  Francisco.  It  has  much  the 
same  habit  as  the  Date  Palm  family  but  differs  from  them  in  its 
closer  habit  and  heavier  foliage,  being  an  excellent  palm  for  small 
gardens  as  it  is  of  slow  growth  and  formal  habit  and  is  not  par- 
ticular as  to  soil. 

[194] 


Cocos  plu  mo  sa  as  Sidezvalk  Tree. 


Palms 


Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  in  early  Spring,  one  inch  deep  in 
a  hotbed  or  warm  greenhouse;  give  pot  room  as  required. 


LIVISTONIA. 

A  genus  of  palms  comprising  several  species  all  bearing  hand- 
some fan-shaped  leaves. 

Livistonia  austral  is  is  hardy  as  far  north  as  San  Francisco. 
Livistonia  Chinensis,  not  being  so  hardy,  should  not  be  planted 
out  of  doors  north  of  Santa  Barbara  unless  well-sheltered  and 
partially  shaded. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  in  heat  one  inch  deep,  in  early 
Spring.  When  the  seedlings  are  about  four  inches  high,  plant 
them  in  light  rich  soil  in  three-inch  pots.  Transplant  them  into 
larger  pots  as  the  young  plants  require  the  space. 


Phoenix  Canariensis. 

[197] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


PHOENIX. 

The  Phoenix  Canariensis  is  without  doubt  the  most  hardy  and 
most  popular  of  the  genus,  growing  well  in  any  garden  soil  and 
standing  considerable  exposure  to  wind.  Phoenix  reclinata  is 
also  very  popular.  It  is  elegant  in  habit  but  not  so  vigorous  a 
grower  as  the  preceding,  requiring  a  sheltered  situation  away 
from  harsh  winds  and  frost.  There  are  several  other  species  such 
as  Phoenix  rubicoli,  Phoenix  sylvestris,  Phoenix  Zelandica,  Phoenix 
dactylifera,  etc.,  all  fairly  hardy  and  easily  grown. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  in  early  Spring,  one  inch  deep  in  a 
hotbed  or  in  a  warm  greenhouse.  Plant  them  in  three-inch  pots 
when  the  seedlings  are  about  four  inches  high,  and  give  them  more 
room  as  growth  advances. 

RHAPIS. 

The  Cane  Palm  of  Japan  is  an  elegant  dwarf-growing  palm 
with  cane-like  stems  and  crowns  of  palmate  leaves,  admir- 
able for  pot  culture  and  for  places  in  rooms  or  verandas.  If 
planted  out  of  doors  it  should  be  given  a  shaded  sheltered  situ- 
ation free  from  draughts  or  cold  winds.  There  are  several  species 
and  varieties  of  this  most  interesting  palm  all  worthy  of  a  place 
in  any  collection. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  divison  of  the  roots  in  early  Spring. 

SABAL  PALMETTO. 

The  Cabbage  Palm  of  Florida  is  another  of  the  fan  palms 
which  do  well  in  our  gardens  and  should  be  found  in  every  good 
collection.  It  is  hardy,  standing  considerable  exposure  and  is 
not  particular  as  to  soil. 

There  are  several  species  belonging  to  the  genus  such  as  Sabal 
Blackburniana,  Sabal  Mexicana,  Sabal  umbraculifera,  etc. 

[198] 


Natural  Group   of   Washingtonias   (California  Fan  Palm). 


;[*» 


DIVERSITY 

OF 
^/ 


Palms 


Propagate  by  sowing  the  seeds  one  inch  deep,  in  early  Spring, 
in  a  warm  greenhouse ;  pot  them  when  four  inches  high,  and  give 
them  more  room  both  at  top  and  root  as  required. 

SEAFORTHIA  ELEGANS. 

The  Seaforthia  is  one  of  the  most  elegant  and  free-growing 
of  the  palm  family.  From  Santa  Barbara  south  it  is  perfectly 
hardy,  ripening  its  seeds  in  the  open  air. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  one-half  inch  deep  in  Spring,  the 
seeds  starting  freely  and  growing  rapidly  in  a  warm  greenhouse 
or  hotbed;  transplant  them  into  three-inch  pots  when  they  are 
from  four  to  six  inches  high  and  give  them  more  pot  room  as 
required. 

WASHINGTONIA. 

The  well-known  California  Fan  Palm  is  without  doubt  the 
stateliest  of  all  our  palms  whether  native  or  introduced.  It 
delights  in  a  good  soil,  deep  and  well  drained,  and  a  plentiful 
supply  of  water  at  the  root  during  the  growing  season. 

Washingtonia  filifera  is  not  recommended  for  cold  exposed 
situations  in  San  Francisco,  the  Summer  being  too  cold  for  its 
making  vigorous  growth,  but  south  of  San  Francisco  and  in  the 
interior  counties  as  far  north  as  Butte  county  it  is  perfectly 
at  home  and  grows  vigorously.  Washingtonia  Sonorea  is  much 
more  hardy,  growing  well  even  in  San  Francisco. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  in  early  Spring,  one-half  inch  deep 
under  glass  and  kept  in  pots  until  one  year  old;  they  may  then 
be  planted  in  the  nursery  and  left  there  until  large  enough  to  be 
planted  in  their  permanent  quarters. 


[201] 


Gardening    in    California 


CHAPTER    XL. 

FERNS. 

IN  the  formation  of  a  Fernery,  a  location  partially  shaded 
and  yet  not  exposed  to  draughts  or  harsh  winds  should  be 
selected. 

A  situation  facing  East  or  a  Northerly  slope  suits  the  great 
majority  of  hardy  Ferns,  and,  as  they  are  generally  found  as 
undergrowth  in  woods  or  rocky  ledges,  on  the  banks  of  streams 
or  creeks,  or  in  shady  spots  in  marshy  ground,  these  conditions 
should  be  imitated  as  closely  as  possible,  a  rocky  dell  shaded  with 
deciduous  trees  being  an  ideal  spot  in  which  to  establish  a 
Fernery. 

Of  course  many  of  the  hardier,  stronger  growers  do  fairly 
well  under  practically  any  tree  or  in  partial  shade  of  almost 
any  kind,  but  a  situation,  such  as  has  been  described,  will  be 
found  from  results  to  be  very  much  the  best. 

The  decision  as  to  the  selection  of  the  site  may  be  influenced 
by  whether  the  intention  is  to  plant  the  Ferns  on  the  ordinary 
ground  level  or  to  have  a  Rock  Fernery. 

If  the  Ferns  are  to  be  planted  without  introducing  rocks  or 
stumps,  all  that  is  necessary  is  to  see  that  the  soil  is  of  the  proper 
character.  It  should  be  light,  rich  and  porous,  so  that  water  will 
pass  through  it  freely.  If  the  natural  soil  is  heavy  loam  or  of 
a  clayey  nature,  it  should  either  be  removed  to  the  depth  of  one 
foot,  and  a  foot  of  light  soil  filled  in,  or  the  foot  of  light  soil 
should  be  spread  over  the  surface  of  the  original  ground. 

The  very  best  soil  for  growing  Ferns  is  composed  of  one- 
quarter  peat,  one-quarter  sandy  loam,  one-quarter  sharp  sand 
and  one-quarter  leaf-mold,  all  having  been  thoroughly  mixed 
together  a  month  before  being  used. 

[202] 


Group  of  Tree  Ferns. 


e  r  n  s 


Should  a  Rockery  effect  be  desired  in  conjunction  with  the 
Fernery,  place  the  rocks  (which  should  be  if  possible  of  a  porous 
nature)  on  top  of  the  soil,  allowing  a  layer  of  soil  of  at  least 
one-half  of  an  inch  to  lie  between  each  rock;  avoid  building 
the  so-called  pockets  into  the  Rockery  as  this  invariably  leads  to 
sour  soil,  and  sour  soil  means  sickly  plants. 

The  comfort  of  the  plants  should  be  the  first  consideration 
and  should  not  be  sacrificed  to  the  appearance  of  the  rockwork. 

When  the  rockwork  is  finished,  the  plants  should  be  got 
together  and  a  system  of  planting  laid  out.  The  larger  Ferns, 
including  the  Tree  Ferns,  should  first  be  arranged  and  planted; 
afterwards  those  of  medium  growth  should  be  placed  in  their 
positions,  and  then  the  smaller  and  dwarf  kinds. 

The  best  Tree  Ferns  for  the  beginner  to  experiment  with  are 
the  Dicksonia  Antartica  and  the  Alsophila  australis  as  they 
are  both  vigorous  growers  and  are  among  the  noblest  and  most 
beautiful  of  any.  When  planting,  set  them  out  in  group-form 
irregularly,  and  from  five  to  ten  feet  apart;  under  and  among 
them  plant  such  kinds  as  Woodwardia,  the  stronger  growing 
Asplenium,  Polystichum,  Lastrea,  Polypodium,  Osmunda, 
Blechnum  Braziliense,  Pteris  tremula,  and  also  our  native  Sword 
Fern.  Then,  to  finish  the  group,  plant,  near  the  walk,  the 
smaller  and  dwarf  species  such  as  the  Five-finger  Fern,  the  Deer 
Fern,  Blechnum  spicant,  Scolopendrum,  Adiantum  capillus 
veneris,  Cystopteris  fragilis,  Woodsia,  etc. 

The  most  of  the  foregoing  are  evergreen,  delighting  in  per- 
petual moisture,  and  should  be  given  every  attention  in  the  way 
of  watering,  their  roots  never  being  allowed  to  get  the  least  dry. 
During  dry  weather  they  should  be  sprinkled  at  least  once  a  day 
overhead,  water  that  is  not  too  cold  being  used;  water  drawn 
direct  from  city  mains  or  from  artesian  wells  is  much  too  cold 
for  use  in  sprinkling  or  watering  ferns  or  other  delicately  foliaged 
plants.  Especially  should  care  be  taken  in  watering  the  smaller 
kinds  which  should  always  be  watered  with  the  watering-pot, 

[205] 


Gardening    in    California 


the  water  having  been  aerated  and  warmed  by  contact  with  the 
atmosphere  before  being  used. 

The  season  for  planting  is  from  November  until  growth  com- 
mences, which  is  generally  in  February.  When  planting,  see 
that  the  soil  is  of  the  nature  recommended;  plant  moderately 
firm  and  not  too  deep. 

Ferns  grown  in  pots  require  repotting  more  or  less  frequently. 
This  must  be  very  carefully  done,  it  being  remembered  that  these 
plants  make  their  most  luxuriant  growth  after  they  have  covered 
the  inside  of  the  pots  with  a  network  of  their  roots.  The  repot- 
ting may  be  done  at  any  season,  but  early  Spring,  just  before 
growth  commences,  is  regarded  as  the  best  season  for  the  work. 
In  repotting,  see  that  the  pots  are  clean  and  dry ;  should  new  pots 
be  used,  they  must  be  put  in  water  and  allowed  to  remain  there  a 
sufficiently  long  time  to  become  thoroughly  soaked;  they  should 
then  be  well  dried  before  being  used.  New  pots  absorb  great 
quantities  of  water,  and,  unless  they  are  well  soaked  before  being 
used,  it  often  happens  that  the  first  two  or  three  waterings, 
instead  of  watering  the  roots  of  the  plant,  serve  to  only  soak  the 
pot,  while  the  balls  of  earth,  which  the  pots  contain,  become  so 
dry  that  it  is  difficult  to  again  get  them  moistened.  When  pre- 
paring pots,  see  that  the  proper  amount  of  drainage  is  put  in. 
First  place  one  piece  of  broken  potsherd  over  the  hole  in  the 
bottom  of  the  pot,  then  fill  the  pot  about  one-fifth  of  its  depth 
with  clean,  broken  potsherds;  cover  this  drainage  material  with 
moss  to  keep  the  soil  from  mixing  with  it.  The  soil  should  con- 
sist of  two  parts  sandy  fibrous  loam,  one  part  of  leaf-mold  and 
one  part  of  peat  with  enough  coarse  sharp  sand  to  keep  the  whole 
open  and  porous. 


206 


•<>-*•  "*""""  """•••-'*•  X>- 

OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY 


Bamboos     and      Grasses 


CHAPTER   XII. 

BAMBOOS  AND   GRASSES. 

THE  Bamboo  is  a  general  favorite  with  all  lovers  of  beauty 
of  form  in  plant  life.  It  is  an  evergreen  indigenous  plant 
belonging  to  the  grass  family.  The  Bamboo  delights  in  a 
light,  rich  soil,  a  well-sheltered  situation  and  plenty  of  water  at  the 
roots  during  the  growing  season,  but  stagnant  water  is  fatal  to  it. 
The  bank  of  a  perennial  stream  and  the  side  of  a  sheltered  lake  or 
pool,  where  the  crowns  are  planted  a  foot  or  two  above  the  water 
level,  are  ideal  spots  for  the  growing  of  the  Bamboo,  while  a  good 
mulching  of  well-rotted  manure  once  a  year  encourages  the  plants 
to  send  up  strong  and  graceful  stems.  The  more  sheltered  they 
are  from  wind  the  better;  especially  must  they  be  protected 
from  our  strong  Summer  west  winds.  A  background  of  our 
native  Pinus  insignis  or  any  deep-green  tree  or  shrub,  shows  off 
the  Bamboo  to  very  good  advantage,  or,  if  a  more  graceful  com- 
bination is  desired,  the  Bamboo  can  be  mixed  with  the  Birch,  and 
the  effect  will  be  most  pleasing,  especially  if  the  golden-stemmed 
Bambusa  aurea  is  used  and  the  group  is  a  large  one. 

In  planting  the  Bamboo  in  groups,  it  is  inadvisable  to  plant 
the  strong  rampant  growers,  such  as  Arundinaria  metake,  etc., 
along  with  the  more  flexible  Phyllostachys  henonis  or  any  of 
the  non-suckering  species,  as  the  spreading  rhizomes  of  the 
strong  growers  will  run  into  the  roots  of  the  more  delicate 
kinds,  rob  them  of  their  required  sustenance  and  eventually 
starve  them  to  death. 

For  single  specimens  on  the  lawn  in  sheltered  nooks,  the 
Arundinaria  falcata  is  one  of  the  most  graceful;  it  grows  to 
the  height  of  about  twenty  feet,  each  stem  drooping  gracefully 
from  the  center  and  forming  a  very  pleasing  effect. 

[209] 


Gardening    in    California 


The  Bambusa  family  is  divided  into  several  sections.  The 
Arundinaria  has  a  straight  round  stem  which  the  branches  nearly 
encircle.  These  appear  simultaneously  along  the  whole  length 
of  the  stem,  and  at  each  joint,  the  sheaths  of  the  young  branches 
being  carried  until  late  in  the  season,  this  giving  a  rather  unkempt 
appearance  to  the  plant;  Arundinaria  Simonii  and  Arundinaria 
Japonica  seem  to  carry  ttiem  much  longer  than  the  other  species. 

The  Phyllostachys,  on  the  contrary,  begin  to  open  their 
branches  at  the  lower  end  of  the  stem  and  gradually  develop 
them  upwards.  The  Phyllostachys  also,  instead  of  having  a  per- 
fectly round  stem,  have  a  double  furrow  along  the  stem,  this 
being  caused  by  the  pressure  of  the  branches  against  the  stem 
while  in  a  soft  state. 

Propagate  by  division  of  the  roots  and  by  cuttings.  The  best 
time  to  propagate  the  Bamboo  by  division  of  the  roots,  which  is 
a  very  simple  process,  is  in  the  end  of  March.  The  plants  should 
be  taken  up  and  divided  into  small  clumps  of  two  or  three  stems 
each  with  their  jointed  roots  attached  (there  being  left  as  much 
earth,  around  the  roots  as  possible)  and  planted  about  two  feet 
apart,  in  good,  fresh,  light  loamy  soil.  They  should  be  given  a 
good  watering  and  a  mulching  with  half-rotted  manure.  They 
may  be  planted  at  once  where  they  are  to  remain. 

Propagation  by  cuttings  is  effected  by  taking  up  the  under- 
ground stems,  or  rhizomes  as  they  are  called,  in  March  or  April, 
cutting  them  into  lengths  of  from  six  to  eight  inches,  planting 
them  in  light  sandy  loam,  about  four  inches  deep,  and  giving  them 
water  as  required.  See  that  only  roots  of  the  previous  year's 
growth  are  used  as  all  older  rhizomes  will  be  failures,  only  the 
young  rhizomes  being  reproductive. 

Among  the  species  which  thrive  well  and  are  perfectly  hardy 
may  be  mentioned  the  Arundinaria  falcata,  Arundinaria 
Hindsii,  Arundinaria  Simonii,  Arundinaria  Japonica,  Phyllos- 
tachys amea,  Phyllostachys  henonis,  Phyllostachys  nigra, 
Bambusa  Marmorea,  Bambusa  quadrangularis,  and  Bambusa 

[210] 


Bamboos. 


OF  THE 

UNIVERSITY 

OF 


Bamboos     and      Grasses 


palmata  while  many  others  are  worthy  of  a  choice  place  in  our 
gardens. 

GROUPS  OF  MIXED  GRASSES. 

Very  pretty  combinations  can  be  made  by  planting  mixed 
grasses;  for  instance,  by  planting  one  or  more  of  the  Bamboos  in 
the  center  of  the  group,  with  a  line  of  the  stately  Arundo  donax 
and  Arundo  conspicua  alternately  around  the  Bamboos,  and, 
in  front  of  and  around  the  Arundo  plants,  a  line  of  the  Pampas 
Grasses,  then,  in  front  of  and  around  the  Pampas  Grasses,  a  row 
of  Eulalia  Japonica  and  its  varieties  intermixed  perhaps  with 
Erianthus  ravennse,  finishing  the  group  with  Orchard  Grasses 
and  Feather  Grass  (Stipa  permata). 

Other  and  smaller  groups  can  be  planted,  leaving  out  the 
stronger  growing,  or  handsome  groups  can  be  formed,  leaving 
out  the  dwarf  growers,  or  again,  a  carpet  can  be  made  of  the 
dwarf  forms,  planting  the  taller  growers  a  few  feet  apart  and 
allowing  the  character  of  the  smaller  species  to  be  seen  between 
the  stems  of  the  Bamboos  or  Arundos. 

PAMPAS  GRASS. 

This  fine  plant  is  so  well  known  that  it  requires  no  descrip- 
tion, for  at  least  one  or  two  plants  are  to  be  found  in  every  gar- 
den of  any  pretension,  and  yet  it  is  worthy  of  better  treatment 
than  it  often  receives.  It  should  be  given  a  deep  good  soil  well- 
enriched  with  manure,  a  sheltered  situation  and  plenty  of  water 
during  the  Summer  months;  under  these  conditions  the  reward 
will  be  a  great  mass  of  graceful  foliage  and  a  splendid  group  of 
noble  plumes  in  the  early  Fall. 

Propagate  by  dividing  the  roots  in  February  or  March. 

Several  garden  varieties  have  been  raised,  some  with  pink 
plumes,  which  are  very  effective. 


Gardening    in    California 


ARUNDO. 

Tall  perennial  bamboo-like  grasses  growing,  in  good  soil  and 
suitable  situation,  to  the  height  of  twenty-five  feet,  the  stems 
being  upright  in  habit  with  broad  leaves  which  droop  hand- 
somely. All  of  the  species  are  highly  ornamental  either  when 
planted  as  single  specimens  on  the  lawn  or  when  grouped  in 
masses  with  bamboos  or  with  other  ornamental  grasses. 

The  Arundo  delights  in  a  light  rich  soil,  a  sheltered  situation 
and  plenty  of  water  at  the  roots  during  the  growing  season. 
Arundo  donax  and  its  variegated  variety  and  Arundo  conspicua 
will  be  found  the  most  useful  of  the  genus. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  divison  of  the  roots  in  early 
Spring. 

EULALIA  JAPONICA. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  handsome  of  the  grass  family  and 
grows  to  the  height  of  from  four  to  six  feet,  topped  with  a 
feathery  plume  which  is  very  ornamental. 

It  forms  an  excellent  border  plant  and  is  also  well-suited  for 
grouping  with  other  grasses  such  as  the  Pampas  grass  or  the  tall 
Arundo  donax. 

It  is  easily  increased  by  division  of  the  roots  in  Spring. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  the  Eulalia,  some  of  them  with 
striped  cream-colored  bands  running  through  the  middle  of  the 
leaves,  and  others  with  bars  of  yellow  running  crosswise. 


Pampas  Grass. 


Succulents 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

SUCCULENTS. 

THE  Succulents  include  many  very  handsome  and  interest- 
ing plants,  extremely  varied  in  their  character,  most  of 
them  having  thick  fleshy  leaves  or  stems.  Many  are  useful 
for  planting  in  dry  sandy  or  rocky  banks,  and  for  covering,  with 
gay  colors  and  interesting  foliage,  poor  spots  of  dry  soil  which  are 
out  of  reach  of  water  or  too  barren  to  sustain  any  other  class  of 
plant.    Among  the  large  number  which  are  perfectly  hardy  and 
very  ornamental  are  many  of  the  Cactus,  Agave  and  the  large 
family  of  Mesembryanthemum  and  Portulaca,  also  the  gorgeous 
free-flowering  Crassula,  etc.  » 

Collections  of  Succulents  should  be  planted  in  the  dryest  and 
best-sheltered  portions  of  the  garden.  They  should  be  watered 
very  sparingly  during  only  very  dry  weather,  and  even  then  only 
when  the  plants  show  signs  of  flagging  or  wilting.  The  soil  best 
suited  for  most  of  them  is  a  dry,  rocky,  well-drained,  loose,  light 
loam  such  as  is  used  in  rockeries,  for  growing  in  which  most  of 
the  Succulents  are  admirably  adapted. 

AGAVE  (Century  Plant). 

This  common  inhabitant  of  our  gardens  is  one  of  the  most 
stately  and  characteristic  of  our  California  garden  landscape 
plants,  its  massive  fleshy  foliage,  when  full-grown,  making  a  fine 
effect  in  the  sub-tropical  gardens,  and  being  excellent  for  large 
vase-work  in  front  of  buildings  or  the  decoration  of  terrace  walks, 
etc.  It  is  a  very  slow  grower,  not  attaining  its  full  growth  until 
fifteen  or  twenty  years  old,  when  (and  not  until  then)  it  sends 
up  its  tall  column-like  flower-scape  to  the  height  of  from  thirty- 
five  to  forty  feet,  or  more,  with  a  diameter  of  stem  of  over  six 


Gardening    in    Californi 


inches  at  the  base.  The  flower-scape  makes  a  growth  of  six 
inches  every  twenty-four  hours,  drawing  its  sustenance  seem- 
ingly from  the  thick  large  fleshy  leaves.  As  the  flower-stalk 
grows  in  height,  the  leaves  gradually  become  thin  and  flabby  until 
the  flower-scape  attains  its  full  height,  when  the  leaves  are  com- 
pletely drained  of  all  sap  and  flesh  and  become  shriveled,  lifeless 
pieces  of  fibre,  all  the  life  and  sap  having  been  taken  up  and  used 
by  the  plant  in  forming  its  wonderful  flower-stalk.  After  per- 
fecting the  flower,  and  ripening  its  seeds,  the  whole  plant  dies  to 
the  ground  and  is  succeeded  by  a  colony  of  suckers  which  form 
about  the  roots  of  the  old  plant.  These  should  be  taken  up  late 
in  the  Fall  and  planted  in  nursery  rows  about  a  foot  or  eighteen 
inches  apart,  and  should  be  grown  on  until  large  enough  to  be 
planted  out  in  permanent  quarters.  There  is  quite  a  large  number 
of  interesting  species  belonging  to  this  genus,  some  of  them  with 
variegated  leaves  and  others  with  rosette-like  bunches  of  leaves 
and  of  dwarf  habit. 

ALOES. 


These  interesting  plants  are 
mostly  natives  of  the  Cape  of  Good 
Hope,  some  of  them  becoming  ar- 
borescent and  branched,  and  grow- 
ing to  the  height  of  sixty  feet.  They 
delight  in  a  loose  rocky  soil  and  a 
warm  sunny  situation,  and  require 
little  artificial  irrigation. 

They  are  mostly  of  very  slow 
growth  although  Aloe  ciliaris  makes 
several    feet   of   growth   in    a   sea- 
son.    Most   of    them    bear    red    or 
yellow  flowers  in  stiff  spikes,  which, 
combined    with    their    rugged    gro- 
tesque habit,  make   them  excellent  for  planting  in  dry  rock- 
eries,  etc.  r     g , 


Aloe  vera. 


Succulents 


Propagate  in  early  Spring  by  seeds,  suckers  or  cuttings; 
cover  the  seeds  to  a  depth  of  one-quarter  of  an  inch. 

CACTUS. 

This  most  interesting  genus  contains  many  hardy  species, 
and  collections  should  be  seen  in  our  gardens  more  commonly 
than  they  are.  Most  of  them  are  of  easy  culture,  provided  they 
are  not  excessively  watered,  or  planted  in  a  too  adhesive  soil. 
They  all  prefer  a  warm  dry  sunny  situation  and  a  light  sandy 
soil  well  drained ;  the  soil  should  also  contain  a  small  percentage 
of  lime;  mixing  a  quantity  of  lime-rubbish  with  the  soil  not 
only  gives  the  soil  the  necessary  amount  of  lime  but  also  serves 
as  a  drainage  medium. 

The  Cereus  type  contains  many  of  the  most  gorgeously-col- 
ored and  largest-sized  flowers  ofsthe  genus. 

The  Echinocactus,  with  their  prickly  oval  or  round-shaped 
ribbed  grotesque  forms  make  excellent  sp'ecimens  for  the  rock- 
ery or  desert  garden. 

The  Mamillarias  with  their  beautiful  forms,  their  rosy,  yel- 
low or  white  flowers  and  their  delicate  designs  are  indispensable 
in  all  collections. 

The  Opuntia,  or  Indian  Fig,  or  Prickly  Pear,  is  the  most 
common  and  also  the  easiest  to  grow  of  all  the  Cactus  family. 
It  is  well  known  throughout  the  State  both  as  an  ornamental  and 
a  hedge  plant  for  which  purpose  it  is  exceedingly  useful,  as 
no  animal,  however  hardy,  will  attempt  to  break  through  it  on 
account  of  the  strong  sharp  spines  which  the  plant  sends  out  in 
all  directions. 

The  Phylocactus  is  known  by  its  flat  leaves,  its  long  calyx 
tubes  and  large  gorgeously-colored  or  white  flowers. 

Several  of  the  genus  are  natives  of  California,  among  which 
may  be  mentioned  Mamillaria  Goodrichii,  Mamillaria  Grahamii, 
Echinocactus  viridescens,  Echinocactus  polycephalius,  Cereus 

[219] 


Gardening    in    California 


Emoryii,   Cereus  giganteus,   Opuntia  litoralis,   Opuntia  facus- 
indica,  Opuntia  prolifora,  etc. 

The  Cactus  is  propagated  most  commonly  by  cuttings  late 
in  Spring.  The  cuttings  should  be  removed  with  a  sharp  knife, 
and  laid  in  a  dry  place  until  bleeding  stops  and  the  wounds  are 
dried.  They  should  then  be  inserted  in  sand  until  they  emit  roots 
when  they  may  be  planted  in  their  permanent  places. 

COTYLEDON  (Echeveria). 

A  genus  of  succulent  herbs  or  shrubs, 
comprising  about  sixty  species  most  of 
them  natives  of  California,  Mexico  and 
Southern  Africa.  They  are  useful  in  for- 
mal bedding,  and  for  rockwork  where  little 
or  no  artificial  irrigation  is  given.  A  very 
interesting  and  effective  rockwork  is  that 
planted  with  the  different  kinds  of  Coty- 
ledons, Sempervivums,  Mesembryanthe- 
mums,  Serums,  Crassulas,  etc.,  and,  as 
these  all  grow  and  bloom  profusely  with- 
out artificial  watering,  many  waste  spots, 
which  otherwise  might  be  left  to  weeds 
and  litter,  can  thus  be  made  attractive. 

The  Cotyledons  are  very  easily  propagated  by  cuttings  made 
from  the  stems  in  September.  Strip  them  of  leaves  for  about 
two  inches,  and,  after  cutting  the  ends  with  a  sharp  knife,  insert 
them  in  sandy  soil  in  a  sunny  situation,  giving  them  very  little 
water  until  they  have  formed  roots  which  will  be  in  two  or  three 
weeks.  They  may  also  be  propagated  by  leaf  cuttings,  by  simply 
parting  the  individual  full-grown  leaves  from  the  stem,  care 
being  taken  when  parting  them  that  the  dormant  bud  at  the  axil 
of  each  leaf  accompanies  it.  Insert  them  in  sandy  soil,  about  one- 
quarter  of  an  inch  deep,  and  give  them  a  little  water  for  two  weeks 

[  220  ] 


Echeveria. 


u  c  c 


ul 


e  n  t  s 


or  until  they  have  formed  roots.  If  the  cuttings  are  put  in  in 
September  or  early  in  October,  they  will  be  ready  for  setting  out 
the  following  Spring. 

CRASSULA. 

This  beautiful  succulent  from 
Table  Mountain  is  one  of  the  best 
plants  for  planting  on  rocky  hill- 
sides or  ledges  as  it  grows  freely 
without  care  or  watering  if  given  a 
handful  of  soil  in  which  to  start. 
Plant  the  young  plants  early  in  Feb- 
ruary and  give  them  a  little  water  to 
settle  the  soil  about  the  roots;  they 
afterwards  will  take  care  of  them- 
selves. 

When  planted  on  a  sunny  slope 
(preferably  facing  the  East)  in  loose, 
well-drained  soil,  with  a  background 

of  low-growing,  dark  foliage,  such  as  dwarf  Pine,  Cypress  or 
Juniper,  it  is  very  effective  as  it  also  is  in  the  rockery  among 
other  succulents,  such  as  the  large-leaved  Echeverias  and  Sedums 
or  the  smaller  Mesembryanthemum. 

There  are  many  species  of  this  interesting  genus,  including 
Crassula  arborescens  which  grows  to  the  height  of  three  feet  and 
has  rose-colored  flowers,  and  Crassula  coccinea,  the  best  known 
of  the  species,  bearing  scarlet  flowers  of  a  most  dazzling  hue 
which  entirely  cover  the  plant.  Others  bearing  white  flowers 
are  also  very  pretty. 

Propagate  by  cuttings,  placed  in  sandy  loam  in  a  cold  frame, 
in  September;  give  them  just  enough  water  to  keep  the  leaves 
from  wilting. 


Crassula  coccinea. 


[221] 


Gardening    in    California 


MESEMBRYANTHEMUM. 


Mesembryanthemum  spectabilis. 


A  genus  of  over  three  hun- 
dred species,  mostly  succulent 
perennials  or  annuals  which 
make  excellent  plants  for  cover- 
ing dry  banks  or  borders,  and, 
where  water  is  scarce,  and  where 
they  are  not  likely  to  be  tram- 
pled over,  a  good  substitute  for 
grass,  many  species  being  of  a 
creeping  spreading  habit,  hug- 
ging the  ground  closely  and 
forming  a  carpet  of  rich  green. 
Mesembryanthemum  spectabilis 
and  Mesembryanthemum  versi- 

color  are  chiefly  grown  for  the  blaze  of  color  they  give  during 
sunshine.  Mesembryanthemum  sequilaterale,  Mesembryanthe- 
mum austral  is,  etc.,  are  mostly  used  for  covering  rocky  banks, 
sand  flats,  and  slopes,  etc. 

The  Mesembryanthemum  is  not  used  so  freely  as  it  ought 
to  be.  Many  waste  pieces  of  ground,  dry  shifting  steep  slopes, 
railroad  embankments,  etc.,  now  of  a  neglected,  unkempt  appear- 
ance, could  be  planted  with  any  of  the  stronger-growing,  thick- 
leaved  species  of  this  genus  which,  in  addition  to  making  a 
covering  for  the  ground,  would  hold  the  slopes  or  embankments 
from  sliding  or  from  being  moved  by  the  elements.  Mesembry- 
anthemum austral  is  (white-flowered)  is  the  best  for  this  purpose 
as  it  is  a  hardy,  strong  grower  and  a  deep  rooter,  forming  a 
dense,  thick  carpet  of  heavy  stems  difficult  to  move  or  wash  out 
of  position. 

Propagate  by  inserting  cuttings,  in  Spring,  about  six  inches 
apart,  where  they  are  to  bloom,  or  where  wanted,  first  preparing 
the  ground  by  cultivating  (either  by  plowing  or  spading)  and 

[222] 


Succulents 


raking  it  over  to  make  it  smooth  °n  the  surface,  breaking  any 
lumps  which  may  be  left,  so  that,  in  planting,  the  dibble  may  be 
worked  easily  and  quickly. 

SEDUM. 


Sedum  is  a  genus  of 
over  one  hundred  species 
most  of  them  with  fleshy 
leaves  and  yellow,  white  or 
pink  flowers,  although  one 
or  two,  such  as  Sedum 
sempervivum,  have  scarlet 
flowers.  Sedums  are  of 
very  easy  culture,  prefer-  Sedum. 

ring  a  light  sandy  soil  and 

a  sunny  situation  and  being  exceedingly  useful  for  covering 
dry  banks  and  rocky  ridges  away  from  the  hose  or  in  the  thinnest 
soils.  They  are  also  effective  for  window-boxes  or  for  carpet- 
bedding. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  placed  in  sandy  soil  in  a  sunny  shel- 
tered situation  in  Spring,  or  by  seeds  sown  in  February.  Cover 
the  seeds  to  the  depth  of  one-eighth  of  an  inch.  When  the  seed- 
lings are  an  inch  or  two  high,  prick  them  off,  two  inches  apart, 
in  pots  or  boxes,  planting  them  in  their  permanent  places  in  May. 

SEMPERVIVUM  (Houseleek). 

A  genus  comprising  fifty  or  sixty  species,  natives  of  Madeira, 
Asia  Minor,  Abyssinia,  and  the  Western  Himalayas,  bearing 
white,  pink,  yellow  or  purplish  flowers  and  thick  fleshy  leaves, 
useful  in  carpet-bedding  and  for  small  rockwork. 

Propagate  by  offsets  taken  from  the  parent  plant  in  early 
Spring  and  planted  in  any  sunny  situation,  in  light  sandy  soil, 
about  two  inches  apart. 

[223] 


Gardening    in    California 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

HERBACEOUS   AND   BEDDING   PLANTS. 

ACANTHUS. 

THE  Acanthus  is  a  group  of  stately  ornamental  plants  of 
vigorous  growth  and  handsome  foliage.     To  grow  well, 
they  require  rich,  deep  soil  well-fertilized  with  old  manure, 
and  plenty  of  water  during  the  Summer  months.  They  show  their 
character  best  when  grown  in  single  tufts,  at  the  bend  of  a  walk, 
on  a  bed  of  turf  and  in  a  sheltered,  half-shaded  situation.    Acan- 
thus mollis  latifolius,  Acanthus  nigra,  Acanthus  spinosus  and  sev- 
eral other  species  are  all  very  desirable  for  giving  tropical  effects 
in  Summer  or  Winter. 

Propagate  by  dividing  the  roots  or  by  seeds  sown  in  Spring, 
under  glass  in  gentle  heat,  covering  the  seeds  to  the  depth  of  an 
eighth  of  an  inch.  Pot  the  young  seedlings  singly  when  they  are 
an  inch  or  two  high,  and  plant  them  out  of  doors  when  they  are 
three  or  four  inches  high. 

ACROCLINIUM. 

A  small  genus  of  hardy  annuals,  bearing  everlasting  flowers 
of  many  shades  of  rose  and  white.  They  are  very  easily  grown  in 
any  garden  soil. 

Sow  the  seeds  out  of  doors  in  April,  in  patches  where  they  are 
to  bloom,  covering  the  seeds  to  the  depth  of  about  one-eighth  of 
an  inch;  when  the  young  seedlings  are  two  or  three  inches  high, 
thin  them  to  six  inches  apart  and  mulch  the  surface  with  one-half 
inch  of  old  well-decomposed  manure,  giving  water  when 
necessary. 

[224] 


Herbaceous  and   Bedding    Plants 


AGERATUM. 

This  well-known  Summer-flow- 
ering plant  is  a  general  favorite  on 
account  of  its  pretty  blue  flowers 
and  long-continued  season  of  pro- 
fuse blooming.  A  good  light  loam 
well-enriched  with  old  manure  will 
grow  it  well.  Plant  the  dwarf  vari- 
eties six  inches  apart,  and  the  tall 
species  about  fifteen  inches  apart. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  in  Sep- 
tember, in  a  cold  frame  or  green- 
house ;  in  Winter  protect  them  from 
frost;  plant  them  out  of  doors  as 
soon  as  the  danger  from  cold 
weather  is  over. 

AGROSTEMA. 


Hardy  evergreen  perennials  and  annuals  with  lance-shaped 
leaves  and  star-shaped  flowers.  They  are  of  easy  culture,  grow- 
ing freely  in  any  soil  and  (being  mostly  natives  of  Southern 
Europe)  requiring  little  water.  They  are  also  well  adapted  for 
ornamenting  dry  banks  if  planted  after  the  first  rains  in  Autumn. 
Seeds  of  the  annual  species  should  be  sown  in  August  in  a  cold 
frame  or  in  a  sheltered  border ;  barely  cover  the  seeds  with  finely 
sifted  sandy  soil ;  plant  them  out  in  October  and  they  will  begin 
flowering  in  April.  The  perennial  species,  such  as  Agrostema 
coronaria,  are  increased  by  division  of  the  roots,  the  early  Winter 
being  the  best  season  for  their  division. 


Ageratum. 


[225] 


Gardening    in    California 

ALTHOEA  ROSEA  (Hollyhock). 

The  Hollyhock  is  one  of  our  old  favorite  garden  plants, 
indispensable  for  producing  bold  striking  color  effects  in  our 
flower-borders  and  shrubberies.  It  delights  in  a  rich  light  soil 
and  an  open  sunny  situation. 

Seeds  should  be  sown  as  soon  as  ripe,  in  September  or  early 
in  October,  either  in  an  open  sheltered  spot  out  of  doors  or  in 
a  cold  frame,  being  covered  to  the  depth  of  a  quarter  of  an  inch. 
As  soon  as  the  seedlings  are  large  enough  to  be  handled,  prick 
them  out  about  three  inches  apart  in  boxes,  or  singly  in  three- 
inch  pots,  in  light  rich  soil  composed  of  one-quarter  very  old 
manure,  one-half  good  surface  loam  and  one-quarter  leaf-mold 
with  enough  sand  to  keep  the  soil  open,  all  well-mixed  together 
by  having  been  turned  over  several  times.  Plant  them  out, 
where  they  are  to  bloom,  in  February  or  early  in  March,  in 
specially  prepared,  well-cultivated  soil  enriched  with  well- 
decayed  manure,  the  ground  having  been  dug  two  feet  deep  and 
the  manure  mixed  freely  with  the  soil.  When  the  flower-spikes 
appear,  mulch  the  ground  about  the  roots  with  a  heavy  dressing 
of  half -rotten  manure  and  support  the  flower-stalk  by  a  good 
stiff  stake  eight  feet  long  by  two  inches  square  tapering  to  one 
inch  square  at  the  top,  the  stake  being  sharpened  and  driven  two 
feet  into  the  ground.  The  roots  should  be  given  a  fair  supply  of 
water  but  over-watering  must  be  guarded  against,  as  too  much 
water  seems  to  encourage  the  Hollyhock  fungus,  a  disease  which 
has  ruined  many  fine  plants.  Should  this  disease  make  its  ap- 
pearance, pick  off  the  affected  leaves  at  once  and  burn  them  up 
to  prevent  it  spreading. 

The  Hollyhock,  in  addition  to  being  propagated  by  seeds, 
may  be  increased  by  cuttings  of  the  young  shoots  which  grow 
up  from  the  old  root.  These  should  be  taken  off  when  about 
three  or  four  inches  long,  and  placed  in  a  shady  sheltered  spot, 
in  soil  composed  of  sand  and  leaf-mold,  until  rooted,  when 
they  may  be  treated  as  recommended  for  seedlings. 

[226] 


Herbaceous  and   Bedding   Plants 


ALYSSUM. 

A  genus  of  hardy  annuals  or  shrubby  perennials,  very  free- 
flowering  and  excellent  for  planting  on  dry  banks  and  among 
hardy  shrubs,  for  covering  the  ground,  or  for  rock  work.  Alys- 
sum  alpestris,  or  Sweet  Alyssum,  is  raised  by  simply  sowing  the 
seeds,  in  Winter  or  early  Spring,  where  wanted,  covering  them 
lightly  with  light  soil ;  thin  the  plants  to  about  six  inches  apart. 
Alyssum  saxatile,  and  other  shrubby  species,  are  best  propagated 
by  cuttings  placed  in  a  cold  frame  in  September  and  shaded  for 
about  two  weeks,  or  until  rooted,  when  they  should  be  gradually 
exposed  to  light  and  air  and  placed  out  of  doors  until  wanted. 

AMARANTHUS. 

Hardy  annuals  with  alternate  entire  leaves  and  small  red  or 
green  flowers  in  clustered  spikes.  They  are  mostly  grown  for 
their  handsome  reddish-colored  leaves  and  graceful  habit  of 
growth.  They  require  rich  soil,  a  sheltered  situation  and  a  gen- 
erous supply  of  water  to  develop  their  full  beauty.  Amaranthus 
bicolor,  Amaranthus  salicifolius,  and  Amaranthus  tricolor  will 
be  found  among  the  best  species  for  general  planting. 

.  Propagate  by  seeds  sown  in  February,  in  slight  bottom  heat, 
in  a  glass  frame.  Cover  the  seeds  to  the  depth  of  an  eighth  of 
an  inch. 

ANEMONE. 

An  extensive  genus  of  hardy  ornamental  perennials  with 
ranunculus-like  flowers  and  variously-shaped  leaves,  some  species 
(such  as  Anemone  Japonica)  growing  to  a  height  of  three  or 
four  feet,  and  others  (such  as  Anemone  hepatica)  growing  only 
a  few  inches  high.  Some  are  suitable  for  borders,  while  others 
(such  as  Anemone  coronaria)  are  best  grown  in  beds  of  rich 
light  soil,  in  a  sheltered,  partially-shaded  situation.  The 
tuberous-rooted  species  should  be  planted  in  October  or  early  in 

[227] 


Gardening    in    California 


November,  about  six  inches  apart  and  three  inches  deep,  and 
if,  in  addition,  there  is  planted  a  carpet  of  Pansies,  or,  better 
still,  of  the  blue-flowering  Arabis,  a  most  charming  effect  will  be 
produced.  After  flowering  and  as  soon  as  the  leaves  turn  yellow, 
the  tubers  should  be  taken  up  and  spread  thinly  in  a  shady  airy 
place  until  they  are  dry,  when  the  leaves  should  be  taken  off  the 
tubers,  and  the  tubers  stored,  in  a  cool  dry  place,  in  boxes  of  dry 
soil  until  the  planting  season. 

Anemone  fuljens  is  a  perennial  species  and  prefers  a  moist 
situation  and  partial  shade,  but  does  well  under  any  ordinary 
garden  treatment.  Anemone  Japonica  makes  an  admirable 
border  plant,  easily  grown  and  propagated  by  division  of  the 
root.  For  cutting  purposes  this  species  and  its  white  variety  are 
invaluable. 

ANTIRRHINUM  (Snap-dragon}. 

This  popular  genus  contains  many  species,  but  Antirrhinum 
majus  is  the  most  popular  and  useful,  its  long  racemes  of  many- 
colored  flowers  being  excellent  for  filling  beds,  for  decorating  the 
herbaceous  borders,  or  for  planting  among  low-growing  shrubs. 
Their  cultivation  is  easy,  as  they  grow  well  in  any  garden  soil. 

They  are  easily  propagated  either  by  seeds  or  cuttings,  but 
the  simplest  way  is  by  sowing  a  packet  of  seeds  in  early  March 
under  glass,  covering  the  seeds  to  the  depth  of  one-eighth  of  an 
inch;  prick  out  the  young  seedlings,  as  soon  as  they  are  fit  to 
be  handled,  three  inches  apart  in  boxes,  placing  the  boxes  in  a 
cold  frame  and  shading  for  a  few  days.  After  they  are  hardened 
off,  they  are  ready  to  be  planted  in  their  permanent  quarters. 

The  seeds  may  be  sown  out  of  doors,  in  a  sheltered  spot,  in 
early  Fall,  and  thinned  to  six  inches  apart,  or  transplanted  to 
where  they  are  to  remain,  and,  if  a  succession  of  bloom  is  de- 
sired, another  lot  may  be  sown  in  April  and  treated  as  recom- 
mended for  those  sown  in  Fall. 

[228] 


Herbaceous   and   Bedding   Plants 


AOUILEGIA  (Columbine). 

Erect,  hardy  perennial  herbs,  flowering  in  panicles.  The 
Columbines  love  a  semi-shaded  situation,  well-sheltered  from 
harsh  winds  and  strong  sunshine,  preferably  under  the  shelter 
of  low-growing  deciduous  shrubs.  They  also  do  well  in  the  open 
ground,  but  under  these  conditions  their  flowers  lack  the  delicate 
tinting  of  those  grown  in  the  light  shade;  any  soil  not  too  heavy, 
if  well  drained,  will  suit  them. 

Seeds  are  produced  in  abundance,  and  should  be  sown, 
covered  to  the  depth  of  one-eighth  of  an  inch,  in  the  Fall  (or 
as  soon  as  practicable  after  they  are  ripe)  in  a  shady  place  con- 
venient to  water;  as  soon  as  they  are  strong  enough  to  be  re- 
moved, they  should  be  planted  where  they  are  to  flower. 

There  are  many  handsome  species  including  our  native 
species,  Aquilegia  chrysantha  (yellow  tinged  with  red),  Aquilegia 
cserulea  from  the  Rocky  Mountains  (sky  blue)  and  Aquilegia 
glandulosa,  etc.,  all  of  them  well  deserving  a  place  in  our  gardens. 

ASTER. 

The  Chinese  Annual  Asters  are  too  well  known  to  require 
description,  their  diversity  of  color  and  compact  habit  of  growth 
rendering  them  almost  universal  favorites.  They  delight  in  a 
cool  moist  loamy  soil  enriched  with  well-decomposed  horse-  or 
cow-manure. 

The  seeds  should  be  sown,  early  in  March,  either  out  of  doors 
or  under  glass,  in  pans,  pots  or  boxes  in  light  sandy  soil,  and 
covered  very  lightly  with  sandy  leaf -mold;  water  lightly  and 
keep  the  soil  moderately  moist  until  they  germinate ;  as  soon  as 
they  make  an  inch  of  growth  prick  them  out,  about  three  inches 
apart,  in  light  rich  soil  and  grow  them  on  until  they  are  about  four 
inches  high;  harden  them  off  in  a  sheltered  place  out  of  doors, 
and  plant  them  about  one  foot  apart  where  they  are  to  flower; 

[229] 


Gardening    in    California 


about  two  weeks  after  they  have  been  planted,  mulch  the  entire 
surface  of  the  soil,  between  th*e  plants,  with  about  one-half  inch  of 
rotten  manure  and  give  a  good  watering.  To  produce  fine  flowers, 
the  Aster  should  never  suffer  for  lack  of  water  and  should  receive 
a  good  drenching  at  least  once  a  week;  should  extra  large 
flowers  be  desired,  the  flowers  should  be  thinned  to  about  five  or 
six  to  a  plant,  and  the  plant  supported  by  a  neat  stake. 

AuBRiETiA  DELTOIDES. 

Where  a  dense  cushion  effect  of  deep  blue  is  desired  in  early 
Spring,  procure  a  packet  of  Aubrietia  seeds  and  sow  in  the  open 
where  they  are  to  flower,  covering  the  seeds  very  lightly; 
September  is  the  best  time  to  sow.  As  soon  as  the  seedlings  are 
well  up,  thin  them  to  three  inches  apart  and  encourage  them  by 
watering,  never  allowing  the  soil  to  become  very  dry.  They  may 
also  be  sown  in  September  in  a  cold  frame,  and  transplanted  in 
November  or  December  to  where  they  are  to  bloom.  Where 
there  is  a  stock  of  old  plants  they  may  be  propagated  by  cuttings 
any  time  after  flowering.  There  are  several  varieties,  all  of  them 
very  useful  for  carpet  effects  in  early  Spring. 

BEGONIA. 

A  large  genus  of  succulent 
herbs  with  tuberous  or  fibrous  roots 
and  showy  flowers  or  leaves.  Most 
of  the  richly-colored  flowers  and 
handsomely-marked  leaves  are  the 
result  of  hybridizing  by  specialists, 
who  have,  by  cross-fertilizing  and 
high  cultivation,  succeeded  in  rais- 
ing the  Begonia  to  the  high  estima- 
tion in  which  it  is  now  held  for  in- 
door and  outdoor  decoration.  The 
hardier  varieties  of  the  tuberous 


Begonia  vernon. 


230 


Herbaceous  and    Bedding   Plants 


section,  and  also  the  Vernon  types,  make  excellent  plants  for 
bedding,  and  the  tall  stately  Begonia  rubra,  if  given  a  sheltered 
position,  forms  grand  specimens,  especially  in  our  coast  counties. 
The  Begonia  requires  a  light  rich  loamy  soil  and  plenty  of 
moisture  at  the  root  during  the  growing  season ;  as  soon  as  flower- 
ing is  over,  the  tuberous-rooted  species  should  be  taken  up,  the 
tubers  cleaned  and  dried  in  a  cool  airy  shed,  and  afterwards 
packed  in  dry  soil  and  laid  away  in  a  cool  place  until  March, 
when  they  should  be  potted  singly,  in  pots  a  little  larger  than  the 
tubers,  in  soil  composed  of  one-third  loam,  one-third  leaf-mold, 
and  one-third  sand  with  a  sprinkling  of  old  manure  mixed 
through  the  compost.  Place  the  pots  in  a  cool  frame,  and,  when 
the  young  plants  make  from  four  to  six  inches  of  growth,  plant 
them  out  where  they  are  to  flower.  The  Vernon  type  is  propa- 
gated by  seeds  sown  and  covered  very  lightly  with  finely  sifted 
sandy  leaf-mold,  in  February,  the  young  plants  being  pricked 
out  three  inches  apart  in  pots  or  boxes  as  soon  as  they  are  large 
enough  to  be  handled,  and  planted  out,  about  the  first  of  May, 
where  wanted  to  bloom.  They  may  also  be  easily  increased  by 
dividing  the  roots  of  the  previous  year's  growth  just  before 
growth  commences  in  the  Spring. 

BELLIS   (Daisy). 

The  Bellis  perennis  or  common  Daisy  is  a  well-known  hardy 
free-flowering  border  plant,  growing  well  in  any  garden  soil  and 
easily  increased  by  simply  dividing  the  roots  immediately  after 
flowering,  each  crown  making  a  separate  plant.  It  may  also  be 
raised  from  seeds,  but  as  a  large  percentage  of  seeds  obtained 
are  single-flowered,  it  is  much  safer  and  more  satisfactory  to 
propagate  by  dividing  the  roots.  In  propagating  from  seeds,  the 
seeds  should  be  covered  to  the  depth  of  an  eighth  of  an  inch. 


231 


Gardening    in    Californi 


BOCCONIA. 

A  genus  of  tall,  stately,  herbaceous,  ornamental-leaved  plants 
with  terminal  panicles  of  inconspicuous  flowers;  an  excellent 
plant  for  giving  subtropical  effects  in  conjunction  with  other 
large-leaved  plants,  or  as  single  specimens  on  the  lawn.  To  grow 
their  handsome  cordate  leaves  to  their  full  size  requires  a  deep, 
rich  soil  and  abundance  of  water. 

Propagate  by  taking  up,  in  early  Spring,  the  young  suckers 
which  form  about  the  roots,  and  planting  them  in  nursery  rows 
until  the  following  season.  They  are  also  easily  propagated  by 
seeds  sown  in  Spring  in  a  sheltered  spot  in  the  open  border ;  cover 
the  seeds  to  the  depth  of  one-quarter  of  an  inch.  Bocconia  cordata 
(from  Japan),  Bocconia  frutescens  (from  Mexico)  and  Bocconia 
integrifolia  (a  native  of  Peru)  will  be  found  the  best  species  for 
growing  in  this  latitude. 

CALANDRINIA. 

A  genus  of  fleshy  smooth-stemmed  annuals  or  perennials 
mostly  natives  of  Australia,  Chile  and  California.  Their  culti- 
vation is  very  simple  and  they  grow  freely  in  any  soil  or  exposure 
not  too  much  shaded,  while  they  are  excellent  for  covering 
waste  places  with  color  until  early  Summer. 

Sow  the  seeds,  one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep,  where  they  are 
to  remain,  as  soon  as  the  Fall  rains  have  moistened  the  soil; 
should  the  seeds  germinate  very  thickly,  thin  out  to  six  inches 
apart.  Unless  birds  or  insects  pick  up  the  seeds  they  will  re- 
seed  the  ground  and  come  up  again  the  following  season. 

* 

CALENDULA. 

Hardy  annuals  which  may  be  had  in  bloom  every  month  of 
the  year  by  making  three  sowings,  one  in  January,  the  next  in 

[232] 


Herbaceous  and    Bedding   Plants 


May  and  the  third  in  August  or  early  in  September.  A  spot  in 
the  open  ground  will  suit  them,  and,  when  the  young  plants  are 
a  few  inches  high,  they  should  be  planted  where  they  are  to 
flower,  or  the  seeds  may  be  sown,  about  one-eighth  of  an  inch 
deep,  where  they  are  to  bloom,  and  thinned  to  one  foot  apart. 
At  the  time  of  thinning,  give  the  surface  of  the  ground  a  mulch 
of  half  an  inch  of  well-rotted  manure;  this  will  encourage  their 
growth  and  produce  larger  and  finer  flowers. 

CAMPANULA. 


The  Campanulas  are  among 
our  most  showy  perennial  or  bi- 
ennial plants;  all  of  them  are 
elegant  when  in  bloom  and 
should  be  seen  more  commonly 
than  they  are.  The  stately  Cam- 
panula pyramidalis,  which  often 
grows  from  eight  to  ten  feet 
high,  forms  grand  pyramids  of 
blue  or  white;  Campanula  media 
(Canterbury  bells)  is  among  the 
best  of  our  border  plants,  and 
the  dwarf-spreading  Campanula 
carpathica  and  its  varieties  are 

also  very  desirable  border  plants.  They  delight  in  a  deep  rich 
loam  well  drained;  a  mulching  of  old  manure  helps  to  keep  the 
soil  cool  during  the  Summer  months  and  assists  in  conserving 
moisture.  The  tall-growing  kinds  should  have  their  flower- 
stalks  supported  by  neat  stakes  painted  green  so  as  to  show  as 
little  as  possible. 

All  of  the  species  are  easily  raised  from  seeds  sown  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  deep  in  early  Spring,  out  of  doors  or  in  a 
frame,  and  again  in  the  Fall,  giving  a  succession  of  bloom 
throughout  the  year. 

[233] 


Campanula  carpathica. 


Gardening    in    California 


CANNA  (Indian  Shot). 


A  large  genus  of  hardy  herbaceous 
perennials,  extensively  employed  in  beds 
and  flower-borders,  their  handsome 
banana-like  leaves  and  many-colored 
flowers  in  stately  spikes  giving  fine 
tropical  effects  in  Summer  gardening. 
Few  plants  are  more  easily  grown,  but  to 
do  well,  they  require  a  rich  deep  soil  and 
plenty  of  water  at  the  root.  Before 
planting,  the  soil  should  be  trenched  two 
spades  deep  and  freely  mixed  with  half- 
rotten  horse-manure.  The  plants  should 
be  set  out  about  two  feet  apart;  if  in 
beds,  the  taller  varieties  should  be 

planted  in  the  middle  and  the  dwarf  kinds  on  the  outside.  A 
partially-sheltered  sunny  spot  should  be  selected,  as  harsh  winds 
rip  the  foliage  and  damage  the  flowers. 

Propagation  is  easily  effected  by  dividing  the  roots;  each 
rootstock  with  bud  and  roots  attached  will  make  an  independent 
plant.  Divide  the  roots,  and  plant  new  beds  as  soon  as  growth 
commences  in  Spring,  generally  late  in  March  or  early  in  April. 
They  may  also  be  propagated  from  seeds  sown  in  the  early 
Spring  and  covered  to  the  depth  of  half  an  inch. 


Canna  indica. 


CELOSIA. 

A  genus  of  crested  or  pyramidal  flowering  plants  much  used 
in  bedding  or  for  planting  in  groups  or  singly  in  flower  borders. 
The  crested  forms  are  dwarf,  and  form  cockscomb-like  heads, 
sometimes  nine  inches  long,  and,  in  fine  specimens,  as  much  as 
four  inches  broad.  Those  of  bushy  or  pyramidal  form  are  grace- 
ful and  open  in  habit,  and  grow,  in  fine  specimens,  from  four  to 

[234] 


Herbaceous   and    Bedding   Plants 


six  feet  high.     The  Celosias  delight  in  a  warm  sunny  situation 
and  a  deep  rich  soil  not  too  heavy. 

They  are  propagated  by  seeds  sown  in  March,  in  a  gentle 
heat,  and  covered  to  the  depth  of  an  eighth  of  an  inch.  When 
they  are  two  inches  high,  pot  them  singly  in  three-inch  pots  and 
return  them  to  a  house  or  hotbed  until  they  form  fresh  roots  in 
the  new  soil,  when  they  should  be  moved  to  a  cold  frame  and 
gradually  hardened  off  by  being  given  a  free  circulation  of  air. 
Plant  them,  about  the  beginning  of  May,  where  they  are  to 
bloom. 

CENTAUREA  (Cornflower'). 

This  well-known  genus  is  easily  grown  in  any  garden  soil 
by  simply  sowing  the  seeds,  one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep,  in  the 
open  ground,  in  March,  where  wanted  to  bloom,  and  thinning 
the  plants  to  six  inches  apart;  after  thinning,  mulch  the  ground 
about  the  plants  with  half  an  inch  of  old  manure  and  give  a 
good  watering. 

Centaurea  rugusina,  the  woolly-leaved  species,  is  better 
treated  by  sowing  the  seeds  in  a  gentle  heat,  in  February,  and, 
when  large  enough  to  be  handled,  pricking  them  off  in  boxes 
three  inches  apart.  Harden  them  off  gradually  and  plant  them 
in  the  open  ground  early  in  May.  This  species  also  may  be 
propagated  by  cuttings  in  September  or  October. 

CHEIRANTHUS  (Wallflower). 

Biennial  or  perennial  herbs.  These  much  admired  Spring 
flowers  will  thrive  almost  anywhere  and  with  little  attention, 
by  simply  sowing  the  seeds,  one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep,  where 
they  are  to  bloom,  in  October  or  November,  and  thinning  the 
plants  when  two  or  three  inches  high,  to  six  inches  apart,  but, 
where  fine  spikes  of  either  single  or  double  varieties  are  desired, 
the  seeds  should  be  sown  in  August  in  a  cold  frame,  and,  when 

[235] 


Gardening    in    California 


large  enough  to  be  handled,  the  seedlings  should  be  planted,  three 
inches  apart,  in  boxes  filled  with  light  soil,  and  transplanted  to 
their  blooming  quarters  early  in  November.  This  treatment 
will  bring  them  into  flower  early  in  April. 

CHRYSANTHEMUM 

This  hardy  and  important  Fall-blooming  plant  is  a  favorite 
with  all  plant  lovers,  and,  to  grow  to  perfection,  requires  con- 
siderable care  and  skill,  but  good  results  may  easily  be  had 
by  ordinary  garden  treatment  if  the  soil  is  deep  and  well-enriched 
by  a  generous  allowance  of  rotted  manure. 

It  is  propagated  by  cuttings,  by  suckers  or  by  dividing  the 
roots  in  March  or  April.  Cuttings  should  be  inserted  in  a  gentle 
heat,  or  in  a  cold  frame  kept  close  and  shaded  for  a  few  days; 
as  soon  as  they  are  rooted,  they  should  be  potted  in  three-inch 
pots  and  returned  to  the  frame,  being  shaded  until  they  make 
fresh  roots,  when  they  should  be  given  plenty  of  air  and  kept 
close  to  the  glass,  care  being  taken  that  they  never  once  suffer  for 
want  of  water.  Plant  them  where  they  are  to  bloom,  early  in 
May  or  as  soon  as  they  have  made  six  inches  of  growth. 

The  young  shoots  should  have  their  points  pinched  off  to 
encourage  the  stems  to  branch;  this  operation  should  be 
repeated  once  a  month  until  August  1st.  Plant  them  about 
two  feet  apart;  after  planting,  mulch  the  entire  surface  ^of 
the  beds  or  borders  with  half -rotted  horse-manure  and  give  the 
ground  a  thorough  soaking  with  water.  Chrysanthemums  require 
enormous  quantities  of  water,  care  being  taken,  however,  not  to 
sour  the  soil  by  giving  too  much.  In  the  hot  dry  districts  of  the 
State  they  should  be  planted,  if  possible,  on  a  northern  exposure 
or  partially  shaded  during  the  Summer  months. 

The  Chrysanthemum  is  divided  into  many  sections  including 
the  incurved  (whose  strap-shaped  florets  curve  inward),  the  re- 
curved (whose  florets  curve  outward  from  the  center),  the 

[236] 


Herbaceous   and    Bedding   Plants 


Anemone  (or  grilled  form),  the  Pompone  (or  small-flowered) 
and  the  fringed  Japanese  or  ragged  section.  The  Pompone  and 
the  recurved  are  considered  the  most  satisfactory  for  outdoor 
bedding  as  they  are  more  free-flowering  -and  not  so  easily  dam- 
aged by  Fall  winds  or  wet  weather.  When  the  young  plants  are 
about  twelve  inches  high,  a  neat  stake  should  be  placed  at  each 
stem,  and  the  stems  tied  to  the  stakes,  as  they  need  the  support. 

CINERARIA. 


The  Cineraria  is  one  of  our  gayest 
early-Spring  flowers,  and,  as  it  is  so 
easily  grown,  should  be  more  com- 
monly seen  than  it  is.  It  thrives  in 
any  soil,  flowering  most  freely  in  any 
district  which  is  free  from  frost,  and, 
if  planted  under  the  shade  of  trees 
where  there  is  a  little  protection,  it 
grows  freely  and  blooms  constantly 
from  January  to  July. 

The  Cineraria  prefers  a  light 
sandy  soil  well  enriched  with  old 
manure.  Propagation  is  effected  by 
seeds,  sown  in  June,  in  a  cold  frame 

or- in  a  shaded  spot  out  of  doors.  As  the  seeds  are  very  small, 
the  surface  soil,  on  which  the  seeds  are  to  be  sown,  should  be 
sifted  leaf-mold,  smoothed  over  and  pressed  firm.  Sow  the 
seeds  thinly  and  regularly  over  the  surface  and  cover  them 
lightly  with  finely  sifted  soil  composed  of  leaf-mold  and  sand 
well-mixed  together;  afterwards  watering  with  a  fine-rosed 
watering-pot.  The  seeds  should  be  shaded  until  they  germinate, 
and,  when  the  seedlings  are  large  enough  to  be  handled,  they 
should  be  transplanted  to  three  inches  apart,  and  placed  where 
they  are  to  bloom,  early  in  October.  An  ideal  spot  for  flowering 

[237] 


Cineraria  hybrida. 


Gardening    in    Californi 


the  Cinerarias  is  under  an  evergreen  tree  whose  lower  branches 
spread  over  the  surface  about  four  feet  above  the. ground. 

COREOPSIS. 

This  showy  annual  or  perennial  herbaceous  plant  is  one  of 
our  favorite  border  ornaments,  flowering  after  most  of  our  Sum- 
mer annuals  are  past  blooming  and  thriving  in  any  good  garden 
loam. 

Propagate  by  sowing  the  seeds,  one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep, 
either  in  a  frame  or  in  a  sheltered  place  out  of  doors  or  where 
they  are  to  bloom.  They  germinate  freely  and  should  be  planted 
or  thinned  to  one  foot  apart;  mulch  the  ground  with  well-rotted 
manure  and  give  them  plenty  of  water  at  the  root.  The  peren- 
nials are  propagated  by  dividing  the  roots  in  early  Spring,  plant- 
ing them  two  feet  apart  and  treating  them  as  recommended  for 
the  annuals. 

COSMOS. 

This  well-known  hardy  annual  is  another  of  our  Fall- 
blooming  favorites,  being  much  used  for  cut  flowers  in  decorating 
rooms  as  it  lasts  well  in  water.  It  thrives  in  any  good  garden 
soil,  well  enriched  with  manure. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  in  March  in  a  cold  frame;  cover 
the  seeds  very  lightly  with  finely  sifted  sandy  leaf-mold.  Trans- 
plant them,  when  two  inches  high,  into  boxes,  placing  them  four 
inches  apart;  plant  them  in  the  open  early  in  May,  two  feet 
apart;  mulch  the  ground  well  with  old  manure  and  water  freely 
during  the  Summer  months. 


[238] 


Herbaceous  and    Bedding   Plants 


Dahlia  imperialis. 


DAHLIA. 

The  Dahlia  is  a  popular  genus  of 
only  a  few  species,  all  natives  of 
Mexico.  Dahlia  variabilis  is  prob- 
ably the  species  from  which  most  of 
the  show  Dahlias  have  originated, 
while  Dahlia  Jaurezii  is  the  original 
of  the  Cactus  section,  the  varieties  of 
which  have  become  so  popular.  As 
Dahlia  imperialis  is  such  a  late 
bloomer,  no  varieties  of  this,  of  any 
great  merit,  have  as  yet  been  intro- 
duced. 

Dahlias  are  among  the  best  of  our 
Summer  and  Autumn-flowering 

plants,  and  are  now  considered  indispensable  in  garden  decora- 
tion, whether  the  garden  is  large  or  small.  With  care  and 
attention  they  may  be  had  in  flower  from  May  until  late  in 
November.  The  first  planting  should  be  done  early  in  March, 
and  a  second  planting  (which  should  be  of  Spring-struck 
cuttings)  ought  to  be  made  about  June  1st.  The  first  planted 
will  bloom  from  May  until  late  in  the  Fall,  and  the  second  will 
begin  flowering  in  August,  continuing  in  flower,  if  the  old 
flowers  are  picked  off  and  the  small  weak  shoots  thinned  out,  until 
November. 

To  grow  the  Dahlia  well  requires  good  soil  not  too  stiff,  well- 
enriched  with  half- rotted  horse-  or  cow-manure.  The  ground  on 
which  the  Dahlia  is  to  be  grown  should  be  trenched  two  spades 
deep,  the  manure  being  freely  mixed  with  the  soil.  Before 
planting,  the  ground  should  be  staked  off,  and  the  varieties 
grouped  according  to  their  color  and  height,  their  respective 
positions  being  fixed,  so  that,  when  they  come  in  bloom,  the 
whole  will  be  a  pleasing  blending  of  color  and  form.  Before 

[239] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


planting  also,  the  soil,  immediately  about  where  the  young  plants 
are  to  be  set,  should  be  freely  stirred  to  the  depth  of  a  foot ;  after 
planting,  give  the  soil  a  good  soaking  of  water  and  tie  the  young 
stems  to  temporary  stakes.  As  the  Dahlia  is  a  gross  feeder,, 
water  must  be  supplied  in  abundance  about  three  times  a  week, 
and,  after  flowering  commences,  manure-water  should  be  given 
once  every  week;  this  will  give  greater  depth  of  color  and  sub- 
stance to  the  flowers  and  more  vigor  to  the  plants,  enabling  them 
to  make  fresh  growth  and  a  longer  continuance  of  bloom. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds,  cuttings  or  division  of  the 
roots ;  by  seeds  sown  and  covered  to  the  depth  of  a  quarter  of  an 
inch,  in  February;  by  cuttings,  in  March,  taken  from  the  young 
shoots  which  start  from  the  neck  of  the  tubers;  by  division  in 
early  Spring  before  growth  commences.  Young  plants  raised 
from  cuttings  generally  give  better  results.  To  get  good  cuttings, 
the  tubers  should  be  placed  in  a  frame  with  a  gentle  bottom 
heat.  Place  the  tubers  about  a  foot  apart  over  the  bed  of  the 
frame  and  shake  about  one  inch  of  soil,  composed  of  half  leaf- 
mold  and  half  sand,  over  the  tubers,  care  being  taken  that  the 
necks  of  the  tubers  are  not  covered;  give  a  light  sprinkling  of 
water  and  keep  the  sash  of  the  frame  closed  so  as  to  have  a  warm 
moist  atmosphere  at  all  times,  while  a  light  sprinkling  of  water 
should  be  given  once  a  day.  This  will  be  sufficient  to  induce  the 
production  of  shoots,  and  each  of  these  may  be  removed,  if 
required,  as  soon  as  it  has  two  joints.  Place  the  cuttings  in  a 
warm  frame  or  hothouse  in  beds,  boxes  or  pots  in  leaf-soil  and 
sand,  where,  in  about  a  week  or  ten  days,  roots  will  be  formed; 
as  soon  as  rooted  they  should  be  potted  singly  in  three-inch  pots 
and  placed  in  the  same  temperature  where  they,,should  remain 
for  two  weeks  or  until  they  take  with  the  new  soil^;  they  should 
then  be  removed  to  a  cold  frame,  and  gradually  exposed  to  the 
open  air.  They  should  be  given  more  pot-room  as  required,  or 
planted  out  where  they  are  to  flower.  After  the  plants  are 
finished  blooming  in  the  Fall,  the  tubers  should  be  taken  up  and 

[240] 


Herbaceous   and    Bedding   Plants 


placed  in  a  cool  airy  shed  until  they  are  wanted  in  Spring. 
Where  there  are  no  facilities  for  propagating  by  cuttings,  the 
tubers  may  be  left  in  the  ground  until  about  March  first,  when 
they  should  be  taken  up  and  separated  singly,  allowing  one  shoot 
to  each  tuber,  and  planted  where  they  are  to  flower. 

DELPHINUM  (Larkspur). 

A  race  of  hardy  ornamental  perennials,  biennials  or  annuals 
with  tall  branching  flower-stems  and  beautiful  palmated  leaves. 
They  are  very  easily  grown,  but,  if  fine  flowers  are  wanted,  they 
must  be  given  special  attention,  while  the  soil  should  be  deep 
and  enriched  with  old  manure  well  incorporated  with  the  soil. 
They  should  be  planted  about  three  feet  apart,  and,  as  soon  as 
the  shoots  attain  a  height  of  one  foot,  a  stake  must  be  placed  at 
each  shoot  for  its  support,  as  they  are  easily  broken  by  the  winds. 
After  flowering,  the  stalks  should  be  cut  down,  when  the  young 
growth  will  sprout  from  the  base  to  form  flowering  shoots  for  the 
following  year. 

Propagate  by  division  of  the  roots,  or  by  seeds  which  may 
be  sown  at  any  time,  when  the  ground  is  in  order,  from  October  to 
February,  the  seeds  being  covered  to  the  depth  of  a  quarter  of  an 
inch.  Division  of  the  roots  is  much  the  simplest  plan  for  in- 
creasing them,  and  early  Spring  the  best  season  for  dividing  the 
roots.  The  annual  species  (such  as  the  common  Larkspur)  are 
propagated  only  by  seeds  sown  in  the  open  where  wanted  to 
bloom;  when  the  seedlings  are  three  or  four  inches  high,  thin 
them  to  one  foot  apart  and  mulch  with  old  manure. 

DIANTHES  CARYOPHYLLUS    (Carnation). 

There  are  no  hardy  flowers  more  deserving  general  cultivation 
than  Carnations,  as  they  present  charming  diversity  of  coloring 
with  delicious,  Sgicy  perfume.  They  thrive  best  in  a  fresh  loamy 

[241]' 


Gardening    in    California 


soil  not  too  heavy,  a  yellow  or  brown  loam  being  best  suited  for 
growing  them. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds,  by  cuttings  or  by  layers;  by 
seeds,  in  early  Spring,  sown  in  pots  or  pans  in  light  rich  soil 
composed  of  half  sand  and  half  leaf-mold,  the  seeds  being 
covered  lightly  with  the  soil.  Place  in  a  mild  bottom  heat,  and, 
when  the  seedlings  are  about  one  inch  in  height,  prick  them  off 
about  two  inches  apart  in  boxes;  then  return  them  to  the  same 
temperature  (a  mild  hotbed)  and  shade  them  during  hot  sunshine 
for  a  few  days  or  until  the  young  seedlings  have  taken  root  in  the 
new  soil ;  afterwards  remove  them  to  a  cold  frame  and  gradually 
expose  them  to  the  open  air.  Plant  them,  about  the  middle  of 
April,  where  they  are  to  flower,  in  a  sunny  situation  protected 
from  cold  winds,  in  soil  which  is  fresh,  not  having  been  used  for 
at  least  a  year  before  in  growing  flowers  of  any  sort. 

In  propagating  by  cuttings,  use  only  wood  which  is 
short-jointed  and  carries  strong  healthy  leaves.  Dibble  them 
about  one  inch  apart  in  boxes  filled  with  sandy  leaf-mold,  and 
place  them,  in  March,  in  cold  frames  or  in  a  shaded,  sheltered 
spot  out  of  doors.  They  may  also  be  put  in,  in  a  similar  situa- 
tion, in  September  with  equally  good  results.  As  soon  as  they 
are  rooted,  transplant  them  three  inches  apart  either  into  boxes  or 
into  a  sheltered  border  until  ready  for  their  permanent  quarters. 

Where  only  a  few  growths  of  any  desirable  variety  can  be 
had,  propagation  by  layering  is  perhaps  the  surest  of  all 
methods.  Layering  is  effected  by  simply  bending  one  of  the 
branches  or  shoots  into  the  soil  (after,  with  a  sharp  knife,  having 
cut  a  slit  into  the  shoot  on  the  underside,  about  half  through  the 
stem)  and,  with  a  hooked  peg,  pegging  it  into  the  ground  about 
one-half  inch  below  the  surface.  Then,  to  a  light  stake,  tie  the 
point  of  the  shoot  in  an  upright  position,  which  will  open  the 
cut  or  slit,  care  being  taken  not  to  sever  entirely  the  point  of  the 
shoot  from  the  main  stem.  Next  cover  the  cut  part  with  light 
sandy  soil  and  give  a  good  watering.  Keep  the  soil  moderately 

[242] 


Herbaceous   and    Bedding   Plants 


moist,  and  in  a  few  weeks  the  layers  will  be  rooted  when  they 
may  be  severed  from  the  parent  stem  and  planted  where  they  are 
to  bloom. 

Should  the  Carnation  be  attacked  by  rust  or  spot,  pick  off  all 
the  affected  leaves  at  once  and  spray  the  entire  plant  with  Bor- 
deaux Mixture  composed  of  one  pound  of  powdered  copper- 
sulphate  in  two  gallons  of  water  and  one  pound  of  fresh  slacked 
lime  in  two  gallons  of  water,  these  being  mixed  together  and 
enough  water  being  added  to  make  ten  gallons.  Mix  and  stir  the 
whole  thoroughly  and  apply  with  a  sponge  or  syringe,  seeing  that 
the  underside  of  all  the  leaves  is  reached  by  the  spray.  About 
May  first  give  the  soil  around  the  plants  a  good  mulching  with 
very  old  well-decomposed  cow-manure  and  give  water  as  required. 
As  soon  as  the  flower-stalks  are  six  inches  high,  stake  each  flower- 
stem  with  a  light  stake  about  one-quarter  of  an  inch  in  thickness, 
tying  the  stem  loosely  to  the  stake,  to  keep  the  flowers  from  being 
blown  about  by  the  winds  or  from  being  bent  to  the  ground  by 
watering.  Pick  off  all  spent  flowers  as  soon  as  they  lose  color, 
and  give  water  as  required. 

DIANTHUS. 

A  genus  of  many  species  including  the  Chinese  Pink,  Sweet 
William,  etc.,  of  easy  culture  and  thriving  in  any  good  soil.  The 
Sweet  William  is  generally  propagated  by  sowing  the  seeds,  one- 
eighth  of  an  inch  deep,  in  July.  When  the  seedlings  are  one 
inch  in  height,  prick  them  off,  three  inches  apart,  in  boxes,  and 
plant  them,  in  October  or  November,  where  they  are  wanted  to 
bloom.  The  Chinese  Pink  should  be  sown  in  a  warm  frame  or 
greenhouse  in  February,  pricked  off  three  inches  apart,  in  boxes, 
when  one  inch  high,  and  planted  out  of  doors  in  April  or  early  in 
May. 


[243] 


Gardening    in    California 


Digitalis. 


DIGITALIS  (Fox-glove). 

A  genus  of  about  twenty  species 
of  hardy  perennial  or  biennial  flower- 
ing plants  of  stately  habit,  bearing 
racemes  of  funnel-shaped  flowers. 
They  thrive  in  any  soil  or  situation 
but  prefer  a  shaded  spot  under  the 
limbs  of  trees  or  among  tall-growing 
shrubs  where  they  give  a  fine  effect 
in  early  Summer. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  out  of 
doors,  in  June,  and  covered  very 
lightly.  After  the  first  rains  in  the 
Autumn,  plant  out  the  seedlings 
about  a  foot  apart. 

DORONICUM. 


This  old  favorite  herbaceous 
plant  should  be  more  commonly 
seen  in  our  gardens  than  it  is.  Its 
Marguerite-like  yellow  flowers, 
growing  on  tall  stately  stems,  make 
it  an  excellent  cut  flower  for  filling 
vases  and  decorating  rooms  in  early 
Spring.  It  is  of  easy  culture  in  any 
garden  soil. 

Propagate  by  division  of  the 
roots  during  December  or  January. 


Doronicum. 


ESCHSCHOLTZIA  (California  Poppy). 

This  beautiful  native  wildflower,  the  glory  of  our  fields  and 
hillsides,  requires  no  description.     Any  garden  soil  suits  it,  the 

[244] 


Herbaceous   and   Bedding   Plants 


stronger  the  soil  the  deeper  the  color  of  the  blossoms;  in  heavy 
loam  they  are  deep  orange  in  color,  while  in  sand  they  are  of  a 
pale  lemon  shade  with  smaller  flowers  and  shorter  leaves. 

Propagate,  after  the  first  Fall  rains,  by  sowing  seeds  in  places 
where  they  are  to  flower,  and  covering  the  seeds  to  the  depth  of 
an  eighth  of  an  inch.  The  yourig  plants,  when  two  inches  high, 
should  be  thinned  to  six  inches  apart;  give  the  ground  about 
them  a  light  mulching  of  old  manure.  In  ordinary  seasons  they 
require  no  artificial  irrigation.  There  are  several  garden  varieties 
with  different  shades  of  color  from  white  to  a  reddish  orange, 
including  some  which  are  pink. 


FUCHSIA. 

A  genus  comprising  about  fifty 
species  of  small  shrubs  or  trees,  most 
of  them  having  been  introduced  from 
South  America  and  Mexico.  Fuchsias 
are  among  the  most  popular  and  or- 
namental of  our  garden  plants,  es- 
pecially along  the  coast  where  they 
receive  the  benefit  of  the  cool  ocean 
breeze  and  attain  a  height  of  twenty 
feet.  Whether  the  garden  be  large 
or  small,  it  should  have  a  few  repre- 
sentative Fuchsia  plants.  They  are 
excellent  for  covering  fences  or  walls, 
where  their  branches  with  their 

panicles  of  rich  flowers  should  be  allowed  to  grow  and  droop 
naturally.  For  forming  bush  or  pyramid-shaped  specimens, 
Fuchsias  are  admirably  adapted;  if  for  pyramid,  they  should  be 
trained  with  a  single  stem,  the  branches  being  pinched  when 
they  grow  out  of  shape  and  the  main  stem  being  allowed  to  take 
the  lead,  it  being  pinched  only  when  it  fails  to  branch.  When 

[245] 


Fuchsia. 


Gardening    in    California 


a  bush-shape  is  wanted,  pinch  the  main  shoot  and  allow  the 
branches  to  grow  freely,  pinching  those  only  which  are  inclined 
to  grow  ahead  of  the  others  and  thus  threaten  to  get  the  plant  out 
of  shape.  Before  growth  commences  in  Spring,  the  plants  should 
be  pruned  back  to  the  shape  desired,  and  at  least  half  of  the 
previous  year's  growth  cut  off. 

Propagate  in  September  by  cuttings  placed  in  a  cold  frame 
and  kept  close  and  shaded  for  about  two  weeks,  when  a  little 
more  air  may  be  admitted,  or  they  may  be  struck  (in  the  open 
air)  in  a  shaded  place  away  from  draughts  of  air,  and  kept  moist. 
Soil  for  the  cuttings  should  be  composed  of  half  sand  and  half 
leaf-mold ;  as  soon  as  the  cuttings  are  well  rooted,  they  should  be 
potted  singly  in  three-inch  pots  and  replaced  in  the  frame  until 
they  form  fresh  roots.  Protect  the  plant  from  frost  during  the 
first  Winter  by  a  covering  of  light  cloth  or  branches  of  Cypress 
or  other  evergreen.  There  are  numerous  varieties  of  the  Fuchsia, 
some  of  them  of  large  size,  very  free-flowering  and  of  all  shades 
of  red,  purple  and  white. 

GAZANIA. 

This  showy  perennial  is  a  native  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope, 
and  is  perfectly  hardy,  thriving  in  any  garden  soil  and  being  an 
excellent  plant  for  forming  borders  to  walks,  or  for  planting  in 
rockeries. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  placed  in  a  cold  frame,  in  September 
or  October,  in  the  open  ground  in  a  well-sheltered  place,  in  soil 
composed  of  half  sand  and  half  light  loam  well-mixed  together; 
after  they  are  rooted,  plant  them  in  a  prepared  bed  two  inches 
apart  until  wanted  for  planting  where  they  are  to  flower. 

GERBERIA  JAMIESONII  (Transvaal  Daisy). 

A  remarkably  handsome  perennial  herbaceous  plant  which 
has  recently  been  introduced  from  South  Africa.  It  grows  in 

[246] 


Specimen  of  Fuchsia. 


Herbaceous  and   Bedding   Plants 


heavy  clumps,  has  leaves  about  one  foot  in  length,  deeply  cut, 
and  blooms  almost  continuously  throughout  the  year,  bearing 
great  masses  of  Marguerite-like  flowers  which  are  of  a  bright 
terra  cotta  color  and  have  stems  about  one  and  a  half  feet  in 
length.  The  Transvaal  Daisy  should  be  in  every  garden. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  during  Spring,  in  soil  composed  of 
half  leaf-mold,  well  decomposed,  and  half  silver-sand,  cover- 
ing the  seeds  to  the  depth  of  an  eighth  of  an  inch.  As  soon  as 
the  seedlings  have  formed  four  leaves,  they  should  be  potted 
singly  in  two-inch  pots  and  afterwards  given  larger  pots  as 
required.  Propagation  of  the  Transvaal  Daisy  may  also  be 
effected  by  division  of  the  roots  during  March  or  April. 

GEUM. 

A  genus  comprising  about  thirty  species  of  hardy  perennial 
plants,  very  useful  for  forming  groups  in  the  flower-border,  and 
for  cutting  for  indoor  decoration.  They  bear  yellow,  red  or 
white  flowers,  some  varieties  being  single-flowered  and  others 
double. 

They  are  of  easy  culture  and  thrive  in  any  soil.  Propagate 
by  division  of  the  roots  in  Winter  or  early  Spring  or  by  seeds 
sown,  one-quarter  of  an  inch  deep,  in  October,  where  they  are  to 
bloom,  thinning  out  the  seedlings  to  one  foot  apart  when  they  are 
about  two  inches  high. 

GILIA. 

This  beautiful  hardy  native  annual  makes  a  most  attractive 
mass  of  color  when  grown  in  a  suitable  place,  as  for  example,  a 
sunny  spot  in  the  open  ground  away  from  the  garden  proper, 
among  the  shrubs  or  in  any  semi-waste  spot  where  a  Spring 
effect  is  desired.  It  is  of  easy  culture;  in  November  spade  the 
ground  and,  after  raking  it  over,  sow  the  seeds  one-eighth  of  an 

[249] 


Gardening    in    California 


inch  deep.  Should  the  seeds  germinate  too  thickly,  thin  the 
young  plants,  when  two  inches  high,  to  three  or  four  inches 
apart  and  they  will  require  no  further  attention. 

GLADIOLUS. 

This  genus  contains  about  ninety  species  which  are  among 
our  most  popular  garden  flowers,  their  stately  habit  and  gorgeous 
spikes  of  handsome  flowers  making  them  indispensable  in  all 
gardens.  While  some  are  pure  white,  they  contain  a  great  va- 
riety of  color,  ranging  through  all  shades  of  pink  and  red  to  dark 
crimson,  and  also  including  yellows  and  purples.  Some  varieties 
are  beautifully  flaked  and  striped.  The  Gladioli  should  have  a 
deep  rich  soil  and  a  sunny  situation  and  should  be  generously  sup- 
plied with  water  during  the  growing  season,  while  a  heavy 
mulching  of  old  cow-manure  about  the  roots  assists  them  to  per- 
fect their  flowers.  Each  flower-stalk  should  be  tied  to  a  light 
wooden  stake  to  keep  it  from  being  moved  or  blown  about  by 
winds.  As  soon  as  the  leaves  begin  to  turn  yellow  in  the  Fall, 
the  corms  should  be  taken  up  with  their  tips  intact,  and  laid  in 
a  cool  dry  shed  to  become  ripened,  when  the  tops  may  be  cut  off 
close  to  the  bulb,  and  the  corms  placed  in  boxes,  covered  with 
dry  soil  and  kept  dry  and  cool  until  planting  time.  Plant  the  first 
lot  of  bulbs  in  February  and  the  next  lot  in  May;  plant  them 
about  three  inches  deep,  and  one  foot  apart. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  in  early  Spring  and  covered  to  the 
depth  of  a  quarter  of  an  inch,  or  by  the  small  corms  or  bulbs 
which  form  around  the  old  corms  or  on  the  ends  of  the  roots. 
These  small  corms  should  be  planted  in  Spring  in  a  nursery  bed 
and  grown  on  for  a  year  before  being  planted  in  the  flower-border. 

HELIANTHUS  (Sunflower}. 

This  genus  includes  the  common  Sunflower  and  about  eighty 
other  species.  The  tall-growing  annual  species  thrive  in  any  good 

[250] 


Herbaceous   and    Bedding   Plants 


soil  and  show  best  when  planted  among  tall  shrubs  or  trees  where 
they  have  a  good  background  of  foliage.  The  perennial  species, 
not  being  such  tall  growers,  are  very  suitable  for  planting  in 
clumps  in  the  herbaceous  border,  where  their  dense  masses  of 
bright  yellow  are  very  effective. 

The  Multiflorus  varieties  are  the  most  popular;  some  of  them 
when  well  grown  are  as  large  and  as  double  as  a  Dahlia. 

The  annual  species  are  propagated  by  seeds  sown,  where  they 
are  to  flower,  in  early  Spring.  Cover  the  seeds  to  the  depth  of  a 
quarter  of  an  inch.  Propagate  the  perennial  species  by  division 
of  the  roots  in  early  Spring.  The  annuals,  when  four  inches  high, 
should  be  thinned  to  eighteen  inches  apart,  and  the  perennials 
should  be  planted  two  feet  apart  each  way. 

HELIOTROPE. 

A  genus  comprising  over  one  hundred  species  (mostly  herbs, 
only  a  few  of  them  being  shrubby),  the  common  Heliotrope, 
(Heliotrope  Peruvianum)  being  the  origin  of  most  of  the  large 
trussed  varieties  now  in  use.  They  are  of  easy  culture,  preferring 
a  light  rich  soil  with  plenty  of  water  and  a  sunny  situation. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  inserted,  in  September,  in  sand  and 
placed  in  a  cool  frame  and  kept  shaded  for  the  first  two  weeks. 
Where  the  temperature  falls  below  thirty-three  degrees  Fahren- 
heit, the  young  plants  should  be  protected  from  cold  during  the 
Winter. 

HEUCHERA. 

This  pretty  saxifrage-like  plant  is  very  useful  for  Spring- 
flowering,  its  bright  pinkish-red  flowers  continuing  in  bloom  for 
months.  It  is  also  good  for  cutting  and  for  filling  small  vases. 
It  is  of  easy  culture,  thriving  in  any  soil.  Heuchera  sanguinea 
will  be  found  one  of  the  best  species  for  general  use. 

Propagate  by  dividing  the  crowns  in  early  Spring. 

[251] 


Gardening    in    California 

IBERIS  (Candytuft). 

This  old  favorite  is  of  easy  culture  and  not  particular  as  to 
soil.  Of  course,  it  shows  finer  flowers  and  remains  longer  in 
bloom  when  given  good  rich  soil  than  when  a  poor  soil  is  used. 
The  annual  sorts  are  raised  from  seeds  sown  either  in  September 
or  October,  or  in  February  or  March.  The  seeds  should  be  sown 
where  they  are  to  flower,  and  covered  to  the  depth  of  an  eighth 
of  an  inch,  the  seedlings,  when  two  inches  high,  being  thinned  out 
to  six  inches  apart  each  way.  The  perennial  species,  in  addition 
to  being  propagated  by  seeds,  may  be  increased  by  cuttings  placed 
in  a  cold  frame  in  October  or  November  or  by  division  of  the 
roots  in  February  or  March. 

IMPATIENS. 

This  genus  includes  the  well-known  Balsam  and  the  free- 
flowering  Impatiens  Sultani  from  Zanzibar. 

The  Balsam  delights  in  a  rich  light  soil  and  a  warm  sheltered 
situation  away  from  cold  winds  and  fog.  Being  an  annual,  it  is 
raised  only  from  seeds.  The  seeds  should  be  sown  in  a  hotbed 
or  warm  greenhouse  and  covered  very  lightly  with  finely-sifted 
sandy  leaf -mold,  March  being  a  good  month  for  the  planting  of 
the  seeds  which  germinate  in  a  few  days.  The  seedlings  should  be 
pricked  out,  as  soon  as  they  are  large  enough  to  be  handled,  and 
planted  three  inches  apart  in  pans  or  boxes;  as  soon  as  they  fill 
the  space  in  the  boxes,  they  should  be  planted  out  where  they 
are  to  bloom,  or  given  more  root-room  so  that  their  growth  may 
not  receive  any  check,  otherwise  their  stems  will  become  stunted 
and  the  flowers  small  and  colorless.  After  planting  them  out  of 
doors,  give  them  a  good  watering  and  mulch  them  with  well- 
decayed  manure,  giving  them  copious  waterings  at  least  twice 
a  week. 

Impatiens  Sultani,  being  a  perennial,  in  addition  to  being 
easily  raised  from  seeds  may  be  increased  by  cuttings,  taken,  in 

[252] 


Herbaceous   and   Bedding   Plants 


March  or  April,  from  tops  of  the  young  growths,  inserted  in 
sandy  leaf-mold  and  placed  in  a  hotbed  or  warm  greenhouse 
where  they  will  root  in  about  ten  days  and  be  ready  for  potting. 
Impatiens  Sultani  makes  an  elegant  pot  plant,  useful  for  decorat- 
ing the  greenhouse  or  for  placing  on  a  warm  veranda. 

IRESINE. 

This  very  useful  ornamental-leaved  bedding  plant  is  much 
used  in  outlining  formal  figures  in  carpet-bedding  and  ribbon 
borders  and  is  considered  an  indispensable  plant  for  Summer- 
planting.  It  is  easily  propagated  by  cuttings  inserted  under  glass, 
in  September  or  October,  or  by  cuttings  in  the  Spring,  inserted  in 
sand  in  a  hotbed  or  warm  propagating  pit.  As  soon  as  they  are 
rooted,  plant  the  young  plants,  three  inches  apart  in  light  rich 
soil,  in  pots  or  boxes,  returning  them  to  a  warm  frame  or  green- 
house until  they  take  root  in  the  soil,  when  they  may  be  removed 
to  a  cold  frame  and  gradually  hardened  by  exposure  to  the  open 
air.  They  should  be  planted  out  in  their  permanent  quarters 
late  in  April  or  early  in  May. 

LOBELIA. 

This  genus  comprises  about  two  hundred  species,  a  few 
shrubby,  many  herbaceous  and  a  large  number  annuals.  The 
dwarf  annuals  are  very  useful  for  bordering  flower-beds  and  for 
forming  a  ground-work  for  tall-growing  specimens,  for  instance, 
a  bed  of  the  tall-growing  scarlet-flowered  Lobelia  cardinalis 
with  a  carpet  or  ground-work  of  the  dwarf  blue  Lobelia  speciosa, 
making  a  charming  combination. 

They  are  all  easily  grown  and  thrive  in  any  garden  soil.  The 
cardinalis  type  should  be  planted  about  one  foot  apart  and  the 
speciosa  six  inches  apart. 

The  annual  species  are  raised  from  seeds  sown  under  glass; 
the  seeds  should  be  sown,  in  February,  in  soil  composed  of  half 

[253] 


Gardening    in    California 


leaf-mold  and  half  light  loam  with  enough  sand  to  keep  the 
compost  open,  the  soil  barely  covering  the  seeds.  The  seeds 
being  very  fine,  the  soil  for  covering  them  should  be  sifted 
through  a  fine  sieve.  Place  the  pots  or  boxes  where  they  have  a 
little  bottom  heat;  when  the  young  seedlings  are  large  enough 
to  be  handled,  prick  them  out  three  inches  apart  in  boxes  and 
return  them  to  a  place  with  the  same  temperature  for  two  weeks, 
when  they  may  be  placed  in  a  cold  frame  and  gradually  hardened 
off,  then  placed  out  of  doors  until  April  or  May,  when  they  should 
be  planted  where  they  are  to  flower. 

The  Lobelia  Cardinalis  type  may  also  be  raised  from  seeds, 
but  they  are  generally  increased  by  dividing  the  roots.  This 
should  be  done  in  February  or  March. 

LUPINUS. 

This  hardy  genus  contains  about  eighty  species,  most  of  them 
American  and  many  being  natives  of  the  Pacific  Coast.  The 
perennial  species  form  handsome  specimens  in  the  shrubbery 
borders,  and  the  annual  species  are  beautiful  in  the  wild  garden  or 
for  planting  in  the  flower-borders.  Lupins  delight  in  a  light 
sandy  soil,  thriving  even  in  the  most  barren  sands. 

Their  propagation  consists  simply  of  sowing  the  seeds  where 
they  are  to  flower  and  raking  the  ground  on  which  the  seeds  have 
been  sown.  The  best  season  for  planting  the  seeds  is  in  October 
or  immediately  after  the  first  rains. 

The  shrubby  blue-flowered  Lupinus  chamosonis  and  the  yel- 
low Lupinus  arboreus  form  handsome  bushes  from  three  to  six 
feet  tall  and  as  much  through  the  branches.  They  are  very  free- 
flowering;  the  annual  species,  such  as  Lupinus  bicolor,  form 
beautiful  masses  or  beds.  The  herbaceous  species  are  best  when 
grown  in  partial  shade,  in  the  uncultivated  copse,  in  hedge-rows 
or  along  the  banks  of  streams.  They  require  no  artificial 
irrigation. 

[254] 


Herbaceous  and    Bedding   Plants 


LYCHNIS. 

The  old-fashioned  favorite  has  not  been  grown  much  of  late, 
but  as  there  is  now  a  tendency  to  return  to  the  old  style  of 
herbaceous  borders,  no  doubt  the  beautiful  Lychnis,  with  its  many 
varieties  of  charming  bright  colors,  will  again  be  seen  in  our 
gardens.  The  Lychnis  thrives  in  any  soil,  but  prefers  a  light 
sandy  soil  and  a  sunny  situation. 

In  October  or  November  prepare  the  soil  by  digging  it  over 
and  raking  it  smooth.  Then  sow  the  seeds  where  they  are  desired 
to  bloom,  and  cover  them  lightly.  Should  the  young  plants  come 
up  too  thickly,  thin  them,  if  the  tall-growing  species,  to  one  foot 
apart,  if  the  dwarf -growing  species,  to  six  inches  apart. 

MATHIOLA  (Stock). 

These  popular  herbs  or  sub- 
shrubs  are  probably  the  most  com- 
monly grown  of  any  flowering 
plants.  Their  colors  range  from 
white,  through  all  shades  of  pink 
and  red,  into  purple  and  violet,  an- 
other point  in  their  favor  being 
their  delightful  fragrance.  There 
are  several  types  or  classes,  some 
flowering  in  early  Spring  and  some 
in  Summer,  while  others  bloom  in 
Autumn,  this  depending  a  good  deal 
on  the  time  of  sowing  the  seeds. 
Stocks  require  a  deep  rich  soil  and 

a  sheltered  situation  with  plenty  of  moisture  at  the  roots.  Plant 
them  six  inches  apart,  choosing  a  cloudy  day  for  the  operation; 
after  planting,  give  the  soil  a  good  soaking  of  water,  and  after- 
wards mulch  the  surface  of  the  soil  with  old  manure;  water  at 
least  twice  a  week. 

[255] 


Stock. 


Gardening    in    California 


Propagate  by  sowing  seeds  of  ten-week  stock  early  in  March, 
in  a  hotbed,  the  intermediate  varieties  in  April,  and  the  Bromp- 
tons  late  in  July.  Cover  the  seeds  to  the  depth  of  one-eighth  of 
an  inch.  As  soon  as  the  young  plants  are  large  enough  to  be 
handled,  prick  them  out  (in  pots  or  boxes)  three  inches  apart  in 
light  rich  soil  composed  of  one-third  leaf-mold,  one-third  light 
loam,  one-sixth  old  well-decomposed  horse-manure  and  one-sixth 
soft  sand,  well  mixed  together;  return  them  into  the  same  tem- 
perature for  about  ten  days,  after  which  they  should  be  trans- 
ferred into  a  cold  frame  and  gradually  exposed  to  the  air,  care 
being  taken  that  the  young  plants  do  not  receive  any  check  in 
their  growth  either  by  sudden  exposure  to  cold  or  by  being  taken 
from  under  glass  and  planted  in  the  open  without  first  being 
placed  out  of  doors  for  at  least  a  week  until  they  get  over  the 
change  from  shelter  to  exposure.  Another  danger  to  be  guarded 
against  is  leaving  the  young  plants  in  the  boxes  after  they  have 
exhausted  the  soil,  in  which  case  the  stems  become  hard  and 
barkbound,  thus  forcing  them  to  send  up  their  flower-stalks 
which,  on  account  of  their  stunted  condition,  are  puny  and  weak. 
In  short,  the  young  plants  should  be  kept  in  a  vigorous  growing 
condition  from  the  time  they  germinate  until  planted  where  they 
are  to  flower. 

MIMULUS. 

This  showy  and  ornamental  genus  comprises  many  fine- 
flowering  annuals  and  a  few  shrubby  species ;  one  of  the  shrubby 
species  (Mimulus  glutinosa)  may  be  found  blooming  on  our 
hillsides  nearly  every  month  of  the  year.  Mimulus  cardinalis, 
with  its  bright  scarlet  flowers,  is  a  lovely  perennial,  thriving  best 
by  the  side  of  a  running  stream,  and  another  of  our  natives  is 
Mimulus  luteus,  which  flourishes  by  the  banks  of  our  ponds  and 
lakes.  The  many  and  vari-colored  varieties  of  Mimulus  luteus 
are  very  effective  garden  flowers.  Mimulus  moschatus  (the  com- 
mon Musk)  is  another  species  of  this  genus  and  is  a  well-known 

[  256  ] 


Herbaceous  and   Bedding   Plants 

and  favorite  plant,  both  for  growing  in  pots  and  for  planting  out- 
side in  clumps,  or  for  growing  a  ground-work  for  tall-stemmed 
flowers  such  as  Lobelia  cardinalis. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  (in  early  Spring)  in  the  open  air, 
where  they  are  to  flower,  or  by  cuttings  inserted  (in  early  Spring) 
in  a  shady  spot  protected  from  wind  and  strong  sunshine.  The 
seeds,  being  very  small,  should  be  covered  with  soil  very  lightly. 
Mimuluajfioscjiatus  is  best  propagated  by  dividing  the  roots  in 
early  Spring  or  before  growth  commences. 

MUSA. 

The  Musas  are  among  the  very  best  of  the  large-leaved  dec- 
orative plants,  Musa  ensete  having  the  largest  leaves.  It  is  much 
used  in  subtropical  gardening,  sometimes  producing  leaves  over 
fifteen  feet  in  length  with  a  breadth  of  three  feet,  these  with  their 
broad  midrib  of  reddish-brown  color,  making  it  one  of  the  hand- 
somest plants  in  a  well-kept  garden.  The  Musas  delight  in  a 
warm  sunny  well-sheltered  situation,  a  rich  well-manured  deep 
soil  and  plenty  of  water  during  the  growing  season. 

Propagate  Musa  ensete  by  seeds,  sown  to  the  depth  of  half 
an  inch,  in  a  hotbed,  in  February  or  March,  and  potted  singly 
in  four-inch  pots  as  soon  as  the  seedlings  are  six  inches  high ;  give 
them  more  pot-room  as  required,  planting  them,  in  early  May, 
where  they  are  to  remain.  Musa  Cavendishii,  Musa  coccinea  and 
most  of  the  other  species  are  easily  increased  by  dividing  the  roots 
or  by  taking  the  young  suckers  which  form  at  the  base  of  the 
stem,  potting  them,  at  any  time  during  Winter  or  Spring,  in  light 
rich  soil  and  placing  them  in  bottom-heat  until  rooted. 

MYOSOTIS  (Forget-me-not} . 

A  genus  of  elegant  annual  flowering  plants  excellent  for  early 
Spring  bedding,  or,  preferably,  for  covering  the  ground  among 
upright  growing  shrubs,  all  being  of  the  easiest  culture  and  thriv- 
soil. 

[257] 


Gardening    in    California 


Propagate  by  sowing  the  seeds,  where  they  are  to  flower,  early 
in  October,  or  after  the  first  rains,  covering  them  very  lightly. 
When  the  young  plants  are  two  or  three  inches  high,  thin  them  to 
six  inches  apart  and  the  result  will  be  a  pleasing  ground-work  of 
pretty  pale-blue,  giving  a  fine  finish  to  the  flower-bed  or  shrub- 
bery group. 

NEMOPHYLLA. 

This  early-flowering  favorite  is  one  of  the  best  of  our  native 
annuals  for  filling  flower-beds,  clumping  in  the  flower-borders, 
carpeting  shrubbery-groups  or  covering  dry  banks  to  give  natural 
effects.  Its  culture  is  of  the  simplest,  all  that  is  necessary  being  to 
sow  the  seeds  thinly  to  the  depth  of  an  eighth  of  an  inch,  where 
they  are  to  bloom,  immediately  after  the  first  Fall  rains;  any 
soil  will  suit,  down  to  the  poorest  sand  or  even  a  rocky  ledge  if 
the  rock  is  loose  enough  to  allow  the  roots  to  penetrate. 

Nemophylla  insignis  and  Nemophylla  aurita  will  be  found 
the  most  useful  of  the  species  for  general  planting. 

OENOTHERA. 

X.  J_    _ 

Evening  Primroses  are  among  our  favorite  natives  and  are 
most  desirable  plants  for  the  decoration  of  our  gardens  and  shrub- 
beries; planted  among  shrubs,  where  their  flower-stalks  and 
bright-colored  (pink,  white  or  yellow)  flowers  show  against  the 
background  of  shrubby  leaves,  the  effect  is  very  pleasing,  their 
flowers  being  among  the  most  beautiful  and  attractive  of  our 
native  perennial  herbs. 

They  thrive  well  in  any  soil  not  too  shallow,  and  require  little 
or  no  artificial  irrigation.  Oenothera  biennis,  Oeno.thera  albi- 
caulis,  Oenothera  bistorta,  Oenothera  ovata  and  Oenothera  cheir- 
anthifolia  are  all  natives  of  this  Coast  and  especially  effective. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  to  the  depth  of  an  eighth  of  an  inch, 
where  they  are  to  bloom,  in  October,  or  immediately  after  the  first 

[  258  j 


Herbaceous  and    Bedding   Plants 


rains  have  well  soaked  the  soil,  or  by  division  of  the  root-stocks 
in  Winter  or  early  Spring.  The  seeds  may  be  sown  in  a  seed-bed 
and  the  seedlings  transplanted  when  three  or  four  inches  high. 

The  tall-growing  sorts  should  be  planted  one  foot  apart  and 
the  dwarf  species  six  inches   apart. 

OXALIS. 

A  large  genus  comprising  over  two  hundred  species  scattered 
widely  over  the  Temperate  Zone  but  mainly  in  South  America, 
Mexico  and  South  Africa.  They  are  mostly  used  as  border-plants 
or  for  covering  the  surface  of  the  ground  under  or  among  shrubs. 
.  They  prefer  a  sandy  soil  and  a  sunny  situation.  All  of  the 
species  are  of  easy  culture  and  are  propagated  by  division  of  the 
roots  in  early  Spring.  Plant  them  about  a  foot  apart.  They  root 
quickly  and  spread  rapidly;  they  should  be  taken  up  and 
replanted  every  second  year. 


A  well-known  genus  of  hardy  plants,  natives  of  America, 
Asia  and  Japan,  which  are  excellent  plants  for  the  decoration 
of  the  herbaceous  border  or  for  groups  in  the  shrubbery.  The 
species  Pseonia  officianalis  have  deciduous  stems  and  perennial 
roots.  Their  flowers,  both  single  and  double,  which  range  in 
color  from  purple  through  red  and  pink  to  pure  white,  are  very 
effective  in  grouping  and  are  also  great  favorites  for  cutting  for 
room  decoration. 

Pseonia  moutan,  the  Japanese  species,  are  highly  decorative, 
and,  having  a  range  of  color  quite  as  extensive  as  the  herbaceous 
species,  are  also  most  desirable  plants  for  planting  in  groups  in 
the  shrubbery  or  garden-border.  Their  flowers  are  of  immense 
size,  single  and  double,  and  most  gorgeous  coloring. 

Plant  them  in  January  in  heavy  rich  loam  which  is  at  least 
two  feet  in  depth,  care  being  taken  not  to  cover  the  crown  of 

[259] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


the  plant  too  deeply,  not  over  one  inch  of  soil  covering  the 
crown.  During  the  season  of  growth,  they  should  be  watered 
generously,  and  the  surface  of  the  soil  should  be  well  mulched 
with  old  manure.  The  clumps  of  the  herbaceous  species  should 
not  be  moved  or  disturbed  more  often  than  once  in  five  or  six 
years,  as  it  is  found  that  disturbing  their  roots  has  a  weakening 
effect  on  the  plants.  Plant  them  about  three  feet  apart  each 
way.  If  left  alone  and  in  good  soil  they  will  soon  form  large 
clumps.  Propagate  the  herbaceous  species,  in  Winter  or  early 
Spring,  by  division  of  the  roots,  and  the  tree  moutan  or  Japanese 
species  by  grafting  on  to  the  roots  of  the  herbaceous  kinds  in 
Winter. 

PAPAVER  (Poppy). 

A  hardy  easily-grown  genus  of  annual  and  perennial  flower- 
ing plants,  natives  of  the  temperate  or  subtropical  regions  of 
Asia,  North  Africa  and  Europe.  They  grow  well  in  any  com- 
mon garden  soil  and  are  excellent  for  cutting,  for  decoration  in- 
doors or  for  giving  gay,  many-colored  effects  in  beds  or  flower- 
borders;  they  are  also  good  for  sowing  or  planting  in  woods  or 
shrubberies. 

Sow  seeds  of  Papaver  daneborg,  Papaver  soniferum,  or  the 
Shirley  species,  in  February,  where  intended  to  bloom;  sow  the 
seeds  one-quarter  of  an  inch  deep.  Thin  the  young  plants  to  one 
foot  apart,  top-dressing  the  ground  about  the  young  seedlings 
with  old  manure  to  the  depth  of  one-half  or  one  inch;  water 
when  required. 

The  perennial  species,  such  as  Papaver  bracteatum,  Papaver 
orientalis,  etc.,  are  propagated  by  division  of  the  roots  in  early 
Spring  or  by  seeds  sown,  in  July,  in  a  cold  frame,  pricked  out 
in  boxes  as  soon  as  large  enough  to  be  handled  and  planted  in 
their  permanent  quarters  in  November. 


[260 


Herbaceous  and    Bedding   Plants 


PELARGONIUM. 

Without  doubt  the  Geranium  is  the  most  universally  grown 
plant  to  be  found  in  our  gardens,  and  deservedly  so,  its  hardiness, 
its  handsome  evergreen  foliage,  with  its  ever-blooming  many-col- 
ored flowers,  making  it  a  general  favorite. 

The  Pelargonium  is  divided  into  several  sections,  including 
the  common  bedding  or  Zonale,  the  ivy-leaved  creeping  section 
and  the  show  or  Lady  Washingtons,  these  again  being  subdivided 
into  innumerable  varieties.  All  are  of.  very  easy  culture  and 
thrive  well  in  any  soil  and  in  almost  any  aspect. 

Propagate  by  cuttings  inserted  in  sandy  soil  in  boxes  or  beds 
in  the  open  air,  in  September.  When  they  are  rooted,  rebox  them 
in  soil  composed  of  equal  parts  loam,  leaf -mold  and  old  manure, 
with  a  little  sand  to  keep  the  mixture  open  and  free. 

In  frostless  sections,  the  young  plants  may  remain  out  of  doors 
all  Winter;  in  other  sections  they  should  be  placed  under  glass 
until  all  danger  from  frost  has  passed,  and  planted,  where  they 
are  to  bloom,  in  April  or  early  May. 

PENTSTEMON. 


This  hardy  and  popular  perennial 
is  among  the  most  beautiful  of  our 
herbaceous  plants,  having  erect,  flow- 
ering branches  (two  or  three  feet  tall) 
and  funnel-shaped  flowers,  the  prin- 
cipal colors  being  blue,  pink,  scarlet 
and  white  with  all  the  intervening 
shades.  The  Pentstemon  grows  well 
in  any  fairly  good  soil.  The  flower- 
stalks  of  the  taller-growing  varieties 
should  be  supported  by  light  stakes  to 
keep  them  from  being  blown  about 
by  winds  or  borne  down  by  heavy 

watering. 

[261! 


Pentstemon. 


Gardening    in    California 


Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds  and  cuttings;  the  seeds 
should  be  sown,  to  the  depth  of  an  eighth  of  an  inch,  in  Febru- 
ary or  early  in  March,  in  a  cool  frame.  When  large  enough  to 
be  handled  the  seedlings  should  be  pricked  off,  three  inches  apart, 
into  pots  or  boxes,  and  planted  out,  when  about  four  inches  high, 
where  they  are  to  bloom.  They  should  be  exposed  to  full  air 
and  sunshine  at  least  one  week  before  being  planted  out  of 
doors.  Propagation  by  cuttings  is  made,  in  September,  by 
inserting  the  cuttings  either  in  a  cold  frame,  where  they  may  be 
shaded  for  the  first  two  weeks,  or  in  a  shady  spot  away  from 
cold  draughts  of  wind,  out  of  doors,  in  soil  composed  of  half 
sand  and  half  leaf-mold. 

PETUNIA. 

A  genus  of  hardy,  free-flower- 
ing plants  belonging  to  the  So- 
lanum  family,  native  of  Brazil  and 
the  Argentine  Republic.  They  are 
very  showy  and  effective  for  plant- 
ing in  beds  or  masses,  also  for 
planting  in  waste  ground  or  where 
water  is  not  very  plentiful.  They 
thrive  in  any  soil  and  require  very 
little  attention  in  the  way  of 
watering  if  the  soil  about  the 
plants  is  kept  loose  and  clear  of 
weeds.  If  extra  large  flowers  are 
wanted,  give  them  good  rich  soil 
and  a  reasonable  amount  of  water. 

Petunias  are  raised  principally  from  seeds  sown  in  February, 
one-sixteenth  of  an  inch  deep,  in  a  cold  frame,  pricked  off  (into 
boxes)  three  inches  apart,  and,  as  soon  as  they  are  of  sufficient 
size,  hardened  by  being  placed  in  the  open  air  for  a  week  or  ten 
days  and  then  planted  where  they  are  to  flower. 

[262] 


Petunia. 


Herbaceous  and    Bedding   Plants 


Special  varieties,  such  as  the  double  and  finely-fringed  single, 
are  propagated  by  cuttings;  these  should  be  taken  off  in  Septem- 
ber and  inserted  in  sandy  soil,  either  in  boxes  or  in  the  bed  of  the 
frame,  and  kept  shaded  during  the  middle  of  the  day  until  young 
roots  begin  to  form,  when  they  should  be  given  more  air  and 
light  and  gradually  exposed  to  full  sunshine.  Plant  them  out 
of  doors,  where  they  are  to  bloom,  at  any  season  where  there  is 
no  frost,  and  in  other  sections  as  soon  as  cold  weather  is  past  in 
the  Spring. 

PHLOX. 

This  brilliant  native  of  the  Eastern  States  is  becoming  a 
general  favorite  in  our  gardens,  its  handsome  panicles  of  charm- 
ingly beautiful  flowers  being  excellent,  when  cut,  for  the  dec- 
oration of  our  rooms  and  halls.  It  also  gives  color  and  bright- 
ness to  our  flower-borders,  and,  where  a  good  collection  of  the 
early  or  Summer-flowering  varieties  together  with  the  tall-grow- 
ing Autumn  late-flowering  varieties  are  cultivated,  a  long  season 
of  continuous  bloom  may  be  had  by  the  different  kinds  succeed- 
ing each  other  in  flowering. 

The  dwarf  species,  such  as  Phlox  subulata,  are  very  useful 
for  covering  rock- work  and  for  forming  front  lines  in  mixed 
borders. 

The  annual  Phlox  Drummondii  is  one  of  our  most  beautiful 
Summer-blooming  plants.  This  species  and  its  many  varieties 
are  suitable  for  filling  flower-beds  or  for  forming  a  ground- 
covering  among  taller-stemmed  subjects.  They  (Phlox  Drum- 
mondii) are  raised  from  seeds  sown  in  February  in  a  warm  hot- 
bed, a  little  bottom-heat  being  of  great  assistance  to  their  free 
germination  in  pots  or  boxes  in  light  sandy  soil.  Seeds  should 
be  covered  to  the  depth  of  an  eighth  of  an  inch.  As  soon  as  the 
seedlings  are  large  enough  to  be  handled,  they  should  be  pricked 
off  into  boxes  and  grown  on  in  frames  until  large  enough  to  be 

[263] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


planted  in  the  open  air.  Before  being  planted,  they  should  be 
hardened  off  by  being  placed  in  the  open  air  for  a  week  or  ten 
days. 

The  perennial  species  are  propagated  by  cuttings  of  the  young 
shoots  which  start  from  the  old  stools  in  Spring.  Take  off  the 
shoots  when  they  make  a  growth  of  four  inches  and  place  them 
in  light  sandy  soil  in  a  cold  frame,  shading  them  for  a  few  days, 
during  hot  sunshine.  As  soon  as  they  are  rooted,  take  them  out 
and  plant  them  in  the  open  border  in  rows  eight  inches  apart  and 
three  inches  apart  in  the  row.  These  will  make  good  plants  for 
flowering  the  following  season. 

The  most  popular  system  of  increasing  the  number  of  plants 
is  by  simply  dividing  the  old  stools  into  small  pieces  in  early 
Spring  and  replanting.  In  planting  the  tall-growing  species,  set 
them  out  about  two  feet  apart.  In  Summer  a  good  top-dressing 
of  old  manure  will  be  found  very  beneficial,  besides  conserving 
the  moisture  by  preventing  evaporation. 

PLATYSTEMON  (Cream  Cup). 

This  charming  little  annual  is  one  of  our  earliest  Spring 
flowers,  flowering  some  years  as  early  as  January.  Its  lovely 
straw-colored,  poppy-like  flowers  are  always  welcome  wherever 
they  are  found. 

It  is  propagated  by  simply  shaking  a  pinch  of  seed  where 
a  patch  of  the  pretty  cream-colored  flowers  is  desired,  in 
October,  or  immediately  after  the  ground  has  received  a  good 
rain  in  the  Fall.  Should  the  seedlings  come  up  too  thickly,  thin 
them  to  three  inches  apart. 


[264] 


Herbaceous   and   Bedding   Plants 


Poinsettia. 


POINSETTIA. 

Poinsettia  pulcherrima,  the 
most  showy  of  the  species,  is  a 
general  favorite,  during  Decem- 
ber and  January,  for  the  decora- 
tion of  our  halls  and  dinner 
tables. 

In  the  northern  counties  the 
Poinsettia  is  treated  as  a  green- 
house plant;  from  Santa  Bar- 
bara south  it  gives  grand  results 
when  grown  in  the  open  ground, 
its  great  scarlet  bracts  often 
being  twelve  inches  or  more 
in  width  and  the  plant  itself 
frequently  growing  ten  feet  high  and  six  feet  wide. 

PORTULACA. 

This  old  favorite,  popularly  known  as  Purslane,  is  sometimes 
used  in  salads  but  generally  is  grown  for  its  gaily-colored  flowers 
of  purple,  yellow,  or  pink.  A  near-allied  species,  the  Calandrina 
caulescens,  is  a  native  of  California  and  grows  abundantly  all 
over  the  State. 

Its  cultivation,  like  that  of  the  Portulaca,  is  very  simple; 
after  cultivating  the  ground,  sow  the  seeds  thinly  and  rake  the 
ground  lightly  to  cover  the  seeds,  any  time  between  the  fall  of 
the  first  rains  and  the  first  of  February.  This  will  insure  a  bed 
of  bright  flowers  in  Spring  and  early  Summer.  Thin  the  plants 
to  eight  inches  apart  as  soon  as  they  are  large  enough  to  be 
handled. 

POTENTILLA. 

This  pretty  little  perennial-flowering  plant  is  found  very 
useful  for  planting  in  the  herbaceous  border  and  among 
shrubs  where  its  bright  single  and  also  double  flowers  are  very 

[265] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


attractive.    It  grows  well  in  any  good  garden  soil  but  prefers  a 
light  sandy  soil  or  a  situation  among  rocks. 

It  is  easily  propagated  by  dividing  the  roots,  in  early  Spring, 
or  by  seeds  sown,  to  the  depth  of  an  eighth  of  an  inch,  in  the 
Fall,  where  they  are  to  bloom,  and  thinned  to  six  inches  apart. 

PRIMULA. 

A  genus  comprising  between 
seventy  and  eighty  species  of  hardy 
perennials.  The  common  Primrose, 
the  Cowslip,  the  Chinese  Primula 
obconica,  the  Primula  Japonica,  be- 
sides many  others,  are  charming 
early-Spring  flowers,  often  opening 
their  pretty  yellow,  mauve,  brown  or 
white  blossoms  as  early  as  January 
and  continuing  in  flower  for  months. 
Many  of  the  double  varieties  are  very 
floriferous,  almost  hiding  the  foliage 
with  their  beautiful  white,  pink  or 
purple  blossoms.  The  Primulas  de- 
light in  a  shady,  moist  situation  facing  the  East  or  North,  in  a 
light  rich  soil.  Plant  them  about  one  foot  apart. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  in  Spring,  covered  to  the  depth  of 
one-eighth  of  an  inch,  and  kept  growing  in  pots  or  boxes  or  a 
sheltered,  shady  border  until  Fall  (when  they  should  be  planted 
where  they  are  to  flower)  or,  where  a  stock  of  old  plants  is  at 
hand,  by  dividing  the  roots  in  the  Fall. 

PYRETHRUM  (Feverfew). 

This  hardy  herbaceous  perennial  is  best  known  here  by  the 
variety  named  the  Golden  Feather  which  is  much  used  in  bed- 
ding and  as  front  lines  to  ribbon  borders,  etc. 

[266] 


Primula  obconica. 


Herbaceous  and    Bedding   Plants 


Pyrethrum  roseum,  used  in  the  manufacture  of  insect  pow- 
ders, has  rose-colored,  single,  Marguerite-like  flowers  which  are 
exceedingly  handsome.  There  are  also  many  varieties  with 
double  flowers  and  tall  erect  stems,  very  useful  for  cutting  for 
inside  room  decoration.  Their  cultivation  is  simple,  any  good 
garden  soil  suiting  them. 

Propagation  is  effected  by  seeds  sown  a  sixteenth  of  an  inch 
deep,  in  February,  in  a  cold  frame,  or  in  March  with  a  little 
bottom  heat;  prick  the  seedlings  out  in  boxes  or  sheltered  bor- 
ders until  they  are  large  enough  to  be  placed  in  their  permanent 
quarters.  Pyrethrum  roseum  and  other  tall-growing  sorts  may 
also  be  increased  by  taking  up  the  roots,  dividing  them  into  sec- 
tions, replanting  them  one  foot  apart  and  top-dressing  the  sur- 
face of  the  soil  with  old  manure. 

RESEDA  (Mignonette). 

This  universal,  favorite,  sweet-scented  annual  is  one  which 
ought  to  be  seen  in  every  home  garden.  It  will  grow  in  any  good 
garden  soil,  but,  if  fine  flower-stalks  are  expected,  the  soil  can 
scarcely  be  made  too  rich. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  where  they  are  to  flower  and  cov- 
ered to  the  depth  of  a  quarter  of  an  inch.  February  is  a  good 
season  for  the  sowing  of  the  first  crop,  and  another  sowing  should 
be  made  in  July;  these  two  sowings  will  keep  up  a  continual 
supply  of  flowers  during  every  month  of  the  year,  provided  the 
plants  are  not  allowed  to  seed.  In  sowing,  it  is  a  good  plan  to 
rake  the  ground  finely  and  sow  the  seeds  in  drills  about  one  foot 
apart,  the  drills  to  be  drawn  the  shape  of  the  bed  or  patch 
desired,  whether  circular,  oval  or  other  form.  When  the  plants 
are  three  inches  high,  thin  them  to  one  foot  apart  and  mulch  well 
with  old  manure,  giving  water  when  required. 

To  those  who  have  limited  space,  this  little  favorite  will  be 
found  very  accommodating,  as  it  does  well  even  in  a  window-box 
if  given  an  Easterly  or  Northern  exposure,  requiring  a  good, 

[267] 


Gardening    in    California 

rich,  light  soil  and  plenty  of  water,  care  being  taken,  however, 
not  to  get  the  soil  soggy  or  sour. 

ROSA  (Rose). 

This  important  genus  of  highly  ornamental  flowering  shrubs 
is  widely  distributed  over  the  Temperate  Zone.  It  is  divided 
into  many  sections  or  groups,  these  again  being  divided  into 
numerous  varieties.  No  one  of  our  ornamental  flowering  plants 
is  more  worthy  of  attention  from  cultivators  or  flower-lovers  than 
the  Rose.  It  is  well  named  the  Queen  of  Flowers,  and  is  useful 
and  beautiful  in  the  many  positions  it  is  called  upon  to  adorn, 
provided  it  is  given  fair  treatment  in  the  way  of  soil  and  cul- 
tivation. Some  of  the  groups  will  be  found  suitable  for  almost 
any  situation: — covering  trellises  or  arbors,  covering  walls  or 
verandas,  in  mixed  borders,  or  as  bedders.  A  number  of  the 
stronger-growing  species  (such  as  the  Ramblers,  the  Cherokees  and 
the  Banksias)  make  grand  effects  when  allowed  to  grow  wildly 
among  the  branches  of  a  spreading  oak  or  a  tall  pine,  their 
showers  of  white,  red  or  yellow  blossoms  almost  covering  their 
own  leaves,  as  well  as  those  of  the  tree  which  gives  them  support. 
The  Rose  is  propagated  by  seeds,  cuttings,  layers  and  budding, 
but  by  cuttings  is  without  doubt  the  best  system  for  increasing 
the  great  majority  of  the  finer  varieties.  Roses  of  nearly  all 
the  varieties  do  well  on  their  own  roots,  and  propagation  by 
cuttings  may  be  carried  on  during  the  Summer  and  Autumn 
months.  The  first  batch  should  be  put  in  as  soon  as  the  first 
crop  of  flowers  is  over,  and  half-ripe  wood  is  in  condition,  which 
is  generally  as  soon  as  the  flowers  drop  from  the  young  growth 
and  before  the  buds  on  the  flowering  shoots  begin  to  swell.  Cut- 
tings of  this  wood  make  excellent  material  and  should  be  about 
six  inches  in  length,  if  taken  off  with  a  heel  so  much  the  better. 
The  cuttings  should  be  inserted  in  a  cool,  shaded  border  free 
from  draughts,  in  soil  composed  of  half  sand  and  half  leaf- 
mold.  When  making  the  cuttings  in  the  Summer  season,  the 

[268! 


Herbaceous  and   Bedding   Plants 


leaves  should  be  carefully  preserved.  Plant  the  cuttings  in  rows 
about  twelve  inches  apart,  and  three  inches  apart  in  the  row. 

The  tea-scented  and  most  of  the  Japanese  and  Chinese  spe- 
cies and  their  varieties  root  well  if  the  cuttings  are  taken  in 
September  and  inserted  in  prepared  soil  in  a  border  facing  the 
North  or  in  boxes  eight  or  ten  inches  deep;  the  soil  should  be 
of  a  light  sandy  nature,  covered  with  about  one-half  inch  of 
pure  sand  and  well- watered.  After  the  cutting-bed  has  been 
prepared  and  the  soil  watered,  take  off  the  cuttings  and  insert 
them  in  the  soil  at  once ;  then  give  a  good  watering  to  settle  the 
soil  about  the  cuttings. 

The  Hybrid  Perpetuals  and  other  hardy  sorts  root  well  if 
the  cuttings,  at  the  time  of  pruning,  which  is  in  November  or 
December,  are  put  in  nursery  rows  in  the  open  ground;  use  the 
previous  year's  wood  in  about  eight-inch  lengths,  planting  the 
cuttings  six  inches  deep  and  leaving  about  two  buds  above 
ground;  soil  of  a  light  sandy  nature  should  be  used  in  the 
cutting-beds. 

Propagation  by  budding  is  effected  by  taking  a  bud  of  the 
variety  to  be  propagated  and  budding  it  on  the  Manette  or  some 
other  strong  grower,  selecting  a  time  when  both  the  stock  and  the 
bud  are  in  proper  condition,  that  is  when  the  bark  lifts  or  parts 
easily  from  the  wood,  which  is  generally  in  April  or  May,  care 
being  taken  that  neither  the  stock  nor  the  bud  is  bruised  during 
the  operation. 

Propagation  by  Seeds  is  resorted  to  only  when  it  is  desired 
to  raise  new  varieties.  Sow  the  seeds  to  the  depth  of  a  quarter 
of  an  inch,  in  January,  in  the  open  border  in  a  sheltered  spot  in 
well-prepared,  light  sandy  loam.  The  seedlings  will  appear  in 
Spring  or  Summer.  Should  they  come  up  too  thickly,  thin  them 
out  to  about  one  inch  apart  as  soon  as  they  are  large  enough  to 
be  handled,  and  transplant  the  thinnings  to  where  they  can  be 
shaded  till  again  established.  The  following  Spring,  as  early  as 
the  state  of  the  ground  will  permit,  take  up  the  seedlings  and 

[269] 


Gardening    in    California 


plant  them  in  nursery  rows,  cutting  each  of  them  back  to  one 
or  two  inches;  plant  them  six  inches  apart  in  rows  one  foot 
apart.  When  the  plants  come  into  bloom,  all  those  with  poor 
flowers  should  be  discarded  and  the  most  promising  preserved 
till  their  true  merits  are  thoroughly  tested. 

Propagation  by  layering  is  not  much  practised.  It  is  best 
performed  in  May  or  June.  Cover  the  bend  with  sandy  soil  and 
keep  moist  until  rooted.  When  the  layers  are  well-rooted,  sever 
them  from  the  parent  plant  and  plant  them  in  a  sheltered  border 
until  a  permanent  position  is  prepared  for  them. 

To  grow  Roses  well,  a  deep  rich  soil  must  be  used.  The 
Hybrid  Perpetuals  require  a  strong,  loamy  soil,  one  and  one-half 
or  two  feet  in  depth,  well  drained.  In  places  where  good  soil  is 
not  found  and  rose-beds  are  to  be  formed,  it  will  be  necessary  to 
remove  the  natural  soil  and  replace  it  with  the  loamy  soil;  when 
this  is  done  and  the  soil  is  satisfactory,  it  should  be  well  enriched 
with  old  manure  and  the  whole  trenched  to  the  depth  of  two  feet; 
the  operation  should  be  carried  out  in  the  Fall.  Before  planting 
the  young  Rose  plants,  about  February,  first  dig  the  ground 
over,  breaking  up  all  the  big  lumps  or  clods,  then  plant  out  the 
young  plants  about  three  feet  apart,  selecting  a  time  when  the 
soil  is  in  good  order  and  not  wet  or  sticky.  After  planting,  if 
the  soil  is  inclined  to  be  dry,  give  a  good  watering  and  mulch  the 
ground  with  a  top-dressing  of  two  inches  of  half-rotten  manure. 

Climbing  Roses  of  the  Rambler  and  Banksia,  as  well  as  the 
Cherokee  types,  also  prefer  a  strong  loam  and  plenty  of  manure. 
The  tea-scented,  the  everblooming,  and  the  Chinese  types  seem 
to  do  best  and  give  their  finest  flowers  in  soil  of  a  lighter  nature, 
a  light  sandy  soil  well-enriched  with  old  manure  suiting  them 
admirably. 

During  dry  weather  in  Summer,  while  the  Rose  is  making  its 
growth,  it  should  receive  a  generous  supply  of  water  at  the  roots. 
At  no  season  should  the  roots  of  the  plants  be  allowed  to  become 
dry  as  this  weakens  the  growth,  and  the  young  wood  does  not 

[270] 


Herbaceous  and    Bedding   Plants 


ripen  firmly,  while  next  season's  growth  starts  feebly  and  the 
flowers  are  poor  and  colorless. 

The  pruning  of  the  different  species  varies  according  to  the 
habit  of  growth  and  the  purpose  for  which  they  are  used. 

The  Pillar  Roses  (those  that  are  used  in  covering  stumps  of 
old  trees,  trellises,  etc.)  which  are  generally  strong  growers 
(under  fair  conditions,  making  an  annual  growth  of  from  six 
to  twenty  feet)  must  be  treated  differently  in  the  way  of  prun- 
ing from  those  which  are  naturally  of  a  bushy,  dwarf  habit.  The 
Climber  is  grown  for  the  purpose  of  covering  large  areas  and 
to  give  great  showers  of  bloom,  whereas  the  dwarf  kinds  are 
grown  mostly  for  their  fine  form  or  size,  individually,  or  in 
clusters  of  from  three  to  six  in  a  cluster.  In  pruning  the  Climbers, 
in  December  or  January,  all  that  is  necessary  is  to  thin  the  shoots 
of  any  weak  or  worn  out  or  dead  or  surplus  branches  and  shorten 
the  previous  year's  shoots  by  cutting  off  the  soft  or  unripened 
tips,  on  the  other  hand  being  careful  not  to  thin  too  freely  thus 
exposing  too  much  of  the  wall  or  trellises  on  which  they  are 
trained. 

The  Hybrid  Perpetuals,  the  Bourbons  and  the  tea-scented 
sections  which  are  grown  in  beds  or  borders  and  are  desired  for 
their  individual  flowers,  should  be  pruned  back  in  December  or 
January  each  year,  leaving  only  from  four  to  eight  buds  on  each 
shoot  of  the  previous  year's  growth. 

When  the  bushes  are  four  or  five  years  old,  it  will  become 
necessary  to  thin  out  some  of  the  old  stems,  but  only  enough  to 
keep  the  middle  of  the  bush  from  becoming  crowded  too  much; 
this  admits^  light  and  air  to  each  growth  and  encourages  stronger 
stems  and  finer  flowers. 

Should,  as  is  very  often  the  case,  the  plants  show  a  tendency 
to  make  weak,  spindly  growth,  it  is  a  good  plan  to  take  them  up 
in  early  Spring  and  either  transplant  them  into  new  soil  or  trench 
the  ground  over  (enriching  it  with  a  plentiful  supply  of  old 
manure)  and  replant  them  after  cutting  them  well  back  and 

[271] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


trimming  in  the  roots,  pruning  off  any  which  are  dead  or 
diseased. 

The  Rose  is  subject  to  several  diseases,  the  worst  of  which 
is  Mildew ;  this  should  be  attended  to  at  once  and  not  left  until 
all  the  leaves  are  attacked,  but,  as  soon  as  the  first  speck  of  Mil- 
dew is  observed,  the  whole  of  the  plant  should  be  sprinkled  with 
a  dusting  of  flowers  of  sulphur.  The  Rose-rust  is  another  disease 
which  frequently  attacks  the  leaves ;  it  forms  on  the  underside  of 
the  leaves  in  red  dots  or  small  masses.  As  yet  no  cure  has  been 
found  for  this  disease,  so  as  soon  as  a  leaf  is  found  with  this  rust 
upon  it,  it  should  be  picked  off  and  not  merely  left  on  the  ground 
but  should  be  burned  up  to  prevent  the  disease  from  spreading 
to  other  plants. 

The  Rose  is  also  attacked  by  several  species  of  Aphides,  com- 
monly called  green  or  brown  fly.  These  should  be  got  rid  of  by 
syringing  with  strong  soap-suds  in  the  evening  and  washing  off 
in  the  morning  with  the  hose;  this  operation  should  be  con- 
tinued each  evening  until  the  fly  is  all  cleaned  off.  A  solution 
of  tobacco  water  is  also  effective,  and  sometimes  dusting  the 
leaves  with  tobacco  dust  will  have  the  desired  effect. 

When  caterpillars  infest  the  leaves,  they  generally  coil  them- 
selves in  the  folds  of  the  leaves.  Press  the  affected  leaves  firmly 
between  the  finger  and  the  thumb,  thus  killing  the  caterpillar,  or 
the  leaves  can  be  picked  off  and  burned. 

SALPIGLOSIS. 

This  ornamental  native  of  Chile  is  a  general  favorite  in  all 
gardens  on  account  of  the  odd  coloring  of  its  tube-shaped  flowers. 
It  thrives  best  in  a  light  rich  soil  where  the  plants  should  be  one 
foot  apart. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown  in  a  gentle  bottom  heat  in  early 
March;  cover  the  seeds  very  lightly.  Prick  them  out  three 
inches  apart  into  pots  or  boxes  as  soon  as  the  seedlings  are  large 

[272] 


Herbaceous   and   Bedding   Plants 

enough  to  be  handled,  keeping  the  young  plants  close  and  shaded 
for  a  few  days  until  they  take  root;  gradually  harden  them  off 
by  exposure  to  the  open  air,  and  plant  them,  where  they  are  to 
bloom,  when  they  are  from  four  to  six  inches  high. 

SALVIA. 

This  brilliant,  Autumn-blooming,  bedding  plant  is  indispen- 
sable where  bright  color  effects  are  desired.  The  Salvias  thrive 
in  a  light  sandy  soil  well-enriched  with  old  manure  and  are  kept 
growing  by  generous  supplies  of  water  at  the  root. 

Propagate  the  shrubby  varieties  by  cuttings,  in  September  or 
October,  inserted  in  sandy  soil  in  a  cool  frame  and  kept  shaded 
during  sunshine  until  rooted.  Where  the  temperature  falls  to 
the  freezing  point,  the  cuttings  should  be  kept  under  glass  until 
all  danger  from  frost  is  over,  when  they  may  be  planted  where 
they  are  to  bloom.  The  tuberous-rooted  species  (such  as  Sal  via 
patens)  are  propagated  by  cuttings  taken  from  the  young  shoots 
which  start  from  the  crown  in  early  Spring;  these  should  be 
placed  in  a  warm  house  or  frame  until  rooted;  they  may  also  be 
increased  by  dividing  the  roots  in  Spring. 

SAXIFRAGA. 

A  large  genus  of  hardy  perennial  herbs,  very  useful  for  plant- 
ing in  rockwork  where  they  form  beautiful  and  interesting  effects. 
Saxifraga  palmata,  probably  the  largest-leafed  species  of  the 
genus,  is  a  native  of  California,  growing  on  the  banks  of  our 
streams  and  creeks;  Saxifraga  sarmentosa  (Aaron's  Beard),  an 
old  favorite,  is  much  used  in  hanging  baskets  or  in  forming 
borders. 

They  thrive  in  any  soil  under  ordinary  care,  and  are  easily 
propagated  by  dividing  the  roots  or  by  seeds  sown  in  the  open 
ground  in  early  Spring,  the  seeds  being  covered  very  lightly. 

[273] 


Gardening    in    California 

SCABIOSA. 

This  hardy  perennial  herb  is  of  easy  cultivation  and  grows  in 
any  soil  with  little  care,  having  the  good  quality  of  requiring 
little  water. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  in  early  Spring,  where  they  are  to 
flower;  cover  the  seeds  to  the  depth  of  one-eighth  of  an  inch. 
Thin  the  young  plants  to  one  foot  apart  when  they  are  large 
enough  to  be  handled.  They  may  also  be  increased  by  division 
of  the  roots  in  February  or  March. 

SILENE  (Catchfly). 

This  genus  comprises  over  two  hundred  species,  only  a  few 
of  which  are  adapted  to  conditions  in  California.  Among  the 
best  may  be  named  Silene  pendula  and  Silene  compacta;  both 
of  these  give  fine  effects  in  early  Spring  and  thrive  in  any  light 
sandy  soil. 

Propagate  by  sowing  the  seeds,  where  they  are  to  bloom,  in 
September  or  October.  The  seeds  should  be  covered  to  the  depth 
of  one-sixteenth  of  an  inch.  Thin  the  seedlings,  when  two  inches 
high,  to  six  or  eight  inches  apart. 

TROP^OLUM  (Nasturtium). 

Highly  ornamental  climbers  or  twining  plants,  intro- 
duced from  South  America.  They  are  among  the  most  useful  of 
our  annual-flowering  plants,  requiring  very  little  attention  and 
thriving  in  any  soil.  For  quickly  covering  arbors  or  anything 
which  is  unsightly,  the  tall-growing  species  are  not  easily  sur- 
passed. The  dwarf  bushy  species  are  excellent  for  planting  as  a 
groundwork  among  shrubs,  or  for  filling  beds  in  semi-dry  situ- 
ations as  they  continue  to  bloom  quite  late  in  Summer  if  the 
ground  is  well  cultivated  and  mulched  with  a  top  dressing  of 
manure,  leaf -mold  or  other  loose  fertilizing  material. 

Sow  the  seeds,  one-quarter  of  an  inch  deep,  where  they  are 
wanted,  at  any  season  between  the  first  rains  and  March  in  the 

[274] 


Herbaceous  and    Bedding   Plants 


frostless  belt,  and  as  soon  as  danger  from  frost  is  over  in  other 
districts.  Nasturtiums  should  not  be  sown  in  rich  soil  as  in  such 
they  grow  too  much  to  leaves  and  stems,  flowering  more  profusely 
if  their  growth  is  not  too  strong. 

Tropseolum  tuberosum,  Tropseolum  speciosum  and  other 
tuberous-rooted  species  do  not  seem  to  take  kindly  to  California, 
although  no  good  reason  has  yet  been  given  for  their  failure; 
being  natives  of  Chile  and  the  cooler  districts  of  Peru,  they  ought 
to  do  splendidly.  They  are  all  handsome  climbers  and  no  doubt 
they  will  yet  give  good  results  when  the  proper  conditions  are 
found  for  them. 

VERBASCUM  (Mullen). 

A  genus  comprising  over  one  hundred  species  of  hardy  bien- 
nial herbs  or  subshrubs.  Some  of  them  are  exceedingly  handsome, 
the  stately  spikes  of  brightly-colored  flowers  being  very  orna- 
mental, especially  when  grown  among  shrubs.  They  thrive  in 
any  soil,  all  that  is  necessary  being,  in  early  Spring,  to  sow  the 
seeds,  one-sixteenth  of  an  inch  deep,  where  wanted,  and  to  thin 
the  young  plants  to  one  foot  apart  when  they  are  two  or  three 
inches  high. 

VERBENA. 


A  genus  embracing  eighty  spe- 
cies of  hardy  perennial  herbs  or 
subshrubs,  being  among  the  best  of 
our  bedding  plants  and  blooming 
continually  for  months  at  a  time. 
Their  colors  range  through  all 
shades  of  purple  and  blue,  through 
reds  and  pinks  to  the  purest  white. 
Their  habit  is  low  and  spreading, 
making  excellent  ground-work  for 
flowering-plants  with  tall  stems. 

They  are  propagated  by  seeds 

[275] 


Verbena. 


Gardening    in    California 


sown  in  a  gentle  heat,  in  early  Spring,  and  covered  to  the  depth 
of  an  eighth  of  an  inch.  When  the  young  plants  are  large  enough 
to  be  handled,  they  should  be  pricked  off,  three  inches  apart,  in 
pots  or  boxes.  Use  soil  composed  of  one-quarter  leaf-mold, 
one-half  good  friable  loam  and  one-quarter  old  well-rotted  horse- 
or  cow-manure  with  enough  sand  to  keep  the  whole  free  and  open. 
Before  planting  out,  place  them  in  the  open  air  for  a  week  or  ten 
days  to  harden  them;  plant  them  when  from  four  to  six  inches 
high.  They  may  also  be  increased  by  cuttings  late  in  the  Fall, 
and  again  in  Spring.  All  species  of  Verbena  like  a  good  rich 
soil  and  a  liberal  supply  of  water.  They  should  also  be  mulched 
around  each  plant  with  half-rotted  manure  to  encourage  vigorous 
growth. 

VIOLA  (Pansy). 

This  popular  plant  is  a 
favorite  of  rich  and  poor 
alike,  everyone,  who  has  a 
garden,  growing  a  few 
Pansies.  This  is  deservedly 
so,  in  view  of  its  wonder- 
ful variety  of  color  and  its 
free-flowering  habit  to- 
gether with  the  ease  with 
which  it  may  be  grown. 

The  Pansy  delights  in  a  cool  moist  situation,  and  generally  gives 
its  best  flowers  in  cool  damp  weather  in  early  Spring.  As  soon 
as  the  hot  dry  weather  commences,  the  flowers  become  small,  and 
the  growth  spindling  and  weak.  The  soil  for  Pansies  should  be 
of  good  strong  loam  enriched  with  a  generous  addition  of  well- 
decomposed  cow-  or  horse-manure. 

Plant,  in  October,  one  foot  apart,  and  give  a  good  mulching 
of  old  manure  after  planting;  as  the  Pansy  thrives  best  in  a 
moist  cool  soil,  watering  should  not  be  neglected,  and  the  soil 

[276] 


Pansy. 


Herbaceous  and   Bedding    Plants 


must  be  kept  moist  at  all  times;  should  the  soil  be  allowed  even 
once  to  become  dust-dry  the  crop  for  that  season  will  be  injured. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  to  the  depth  of  an  eighth  of  an 
inch,  in  a  cool  frame  or  lath-house  and  shaded  from  the  sun  by 
the  glass  being  covered  with  burlap  or  other  shading  material. 
July  is  about  the  best  season  for  sowing  the  seeds.  This  will 
allow  the  grower  to  have  strong  bushy  plants  ready  to  be  set  out 
by  October  first,  or  as  soon  as  the  Summer-blooming  flowers  are 
over,  when  the  Pansies  may  take  the  place  of  those  finished 
blooming,  and  occupy  the  ground  through  the  Winter  and  early 
Spring;  along  the  cool  coast  counties  a  second  sowing  may,  in 
January  or  February,  be  made  for  Summer-flowering.  As  soon 
as  the  young  plants  are  large  enough  to  be  handled,  they  must 
be  pricked  out  in  beds  or  boxes  in  light,  rich  soil  composed  of 
one-third  good  friable  loam,  one-third  leaf-mold  and  one-third 
equal  quantities  of  sand  and  old  manure,  the  whole  being  well 
mixed  together  by  being  turned  over  several  times.  It  is  impor- 
tant that  the  young  plants  be  well  rooted,  and  planted  with  a 
good  ball  of  earth  adhering  to  the  roots. 

Varieties  of  Pansies  are  divided  into  three  sections,  viz.: 
Selfs,  White-grounds  and  Yellow-grounds. 

Selfs  are  all  of  one  color  and  are  either  black,  maroon,  white 
or  yellow.  White-ground  and  Yellow-ground  varieties  are  those 
which  have  a  large  dark  center,  then  a  central  ring  of  white  or 
yellow  and  an  outer  band  of  dark  color. 

The  fancy  division  has  the  various  colors  and  tints  curiously 
blotched,  striped  and  edged.  Still  another  section,  though  not 
the  true  Pansy,  is  the  Viola  cornuta,  or  horned-violet,  which, 
with  its  many  showy  self  colors,  makes  an  excellent  bedding 
plant  during  the  Summer  months. 


[  277 


Gardening    in    California 


VIOLA  ODORATA  (Violet). 

This  favorite,  sweet-scented  Winter  and  early-Spring  flower 
is  grown  by  everyone  who  cultivates  a  garden  whether  in  a 
twenty-five  foot  lot  or  in  grounds  of  many  acres.  In  the  cooler 
portions  of  the  State  it  thrives  well  in  open,  sunny  situations, 
while  in  the  hotter  and  dryer  sections  it  grows  best  in  shaded 
spots  or  in  a  situation  facing  the  North.  The  Violet  prefers  soil 
of  a  light  loamy  nature  well-enriched  with  plenty  of  old  manure. 

Propagation  is  by  runners  taken  off  the  old  plants  about  the 
first  of  March.  After  the  ground  is  spaded  and  leveled,  it  should 
be  raked  fine  and  the  young  shoots  planted  from  six  to  twelve 
inches  apart,  the  strong  growers  (such  as  the  California,  Prin- 
cess of  Wales,  etc.)  twelve  inches  apart,  and  the  Neapolitan, 
Marie  Louise,  etc.,  six  inches  apart.  Should  the  weather  be  dry, 
the  young  plants  should  be  given  a  thorough  watering;  about  the 
beginning  of  June  give  the  surface  of  the  ground  a  mulching  of 
old  manure  an  inch  deep,  and  water  frequently,  not  allowing  the 
ground  to  get  dry  at  any  time  during  the  growing  season. 

The  operation  of  replanting  should  be  attended  to  each 
Spring  as  the  old  plants  get  worn  out  and  weak  if  left  in  the 
same  ground  two  or  more  years. 

ZINNIA. 

The  Zinnia,  a  native  of  Mexico,  is  one  of  the  favorite  flower- 
ing annuals,  growing  easily  and  being  much  used  in  the  decora- 
tion of  the  flower-border  and  also  for  bedding.  It  thrives  best 
in  a  deep  rich  soil  and  a  sunny  situation. 

Sow  the  seeds,  one-eighth  of  an  inch  deep,  in  a  warm  green- 
house or  frame  in  early  March,  or  in  the  open  border  in  April. 
When  they  are  two  inches  high,  prick  off  the  young  seedlings 
four  inches  apart,  in  boxes,  if  they  have  been  raised  under  glass, 
or,  if  sown  where  they  are  to  bloom,  thin  them  out  to  one  foot 

[278] 


Herbaceous  and    Bedding   Plants 


apart.  About  the  first  of  June  top-dress  the  surface  of  the 
ground  with  old  manure  and  give  abundance  of  water  during  the 
growing  season.  If  mulching  is  objected  to,  keep  the  soil  hoed 
after  each  watering,  to  prevent  it  from  baking  and  cracking.  The 
Zinnias,  from  the  time  the  young  plants  germinate,  should  be 
kept  growing  freely;  at  no  time  should  they  be  allowed  a  check 
either  from  poor  soil  or  for  want  of  water,  as  the  least  check  to 
their  growth  causes  them  to  throw  poor  small  flowers,  and  they 
never  seem  to  do  well  afterwards. 


[279] 


Gardening    in    California 


CHAPTER   XV. 

PONDS,    LAKES    AND    THE    WATER    GARDEN. 

WHERE  grounds  have  the  required  space,  water  effects 
should  be  introduced,  nothing  in  nature  being  more 
brilliant  in  its  effects  than  water,  whether  in  motion, 
tumbling  in  creek-form,  which  perhaps  is  the  most  striking  of 
all,  or  in  repose  in  pond  or  lake. 

The  size  or  extent  of  the  body  of  water  should  of  course  be 
in  proportion  to  the  extent  of  the  improved  grounds.  A  glimpse 
of  a  river  or  creek  in  the  background  gives  a  wonderfully  grand 
finish  to  an  ideal  landscape,  while  a  modest  water-effect  in  pond- 
shape  adds  a  charm  to  the  smaller  garden  or  grounds  such  as 
nothing  else  can  possibly  give. 

In  very  few  places  are  fine  water-effects  more  appreciated 
than  in  the  middle  and  southerly  counties  of  California.  This 
is  accounted  for  by  the  great  lack  of  rain  during  several  months 
of  the  ordinary  year,  say  from  April  to  October,  when  the  whole 
State  from  Butte  to  San  Diego  is  dry,  brown  and  dusty,  and, 
consequently,  the  pleasure  from  the  prospect  of  a  gushing  foun- 
tain or  a  running  creek  or  river  is  greatly  enhanced,  such  a  water- 
effect,  in  fact,  being  a  positive  relief  to  the  eye.  Every  village 
and  hamlet  should  have  its  fountain-basin,  as  well  as  its  drinking- 
place  for  horses  and  dogs,  filled  with  clear  water,  for  practical 
use  and  as  a  pleasing  and  effective  ornament. 

Before  making  an  artificial  pond,  first  decide  upon  the  site, 
the  size,  the  shape  which  it  may  assume,  the  depth  of  water  and 
the  mode  of  construction.  The  proportion  of  water-effect  in  the 
garden-plan  should  be,  as  nearly  as  possible,  one  in  ten;  for 
example,  in  a  garden  of  four  acres,  from  one-quarter  to  one-half 
an  acre  should  be  water. 

[280! 


Ponds,  Lakes  and   the  Water  Garden 


It  is  hardly  necessary  to  say  that  all  these  details  as  to  the 
pond  should  first  be  carefully  planned  on  paper,  to  scale.  If 
the  garden  is  laid  out  in  the  natural  style,  the  outline  of  the 
water-surface  should  assume  an  irregular  shape  with  deep  bays 
and  promontories,  not  only  for  the  purpose  of  giving  variety  to 
the  outline  but  also  in  order  to  have  the  opportunity  of  placing 
plants  of  different  character  in  the  locations  best  adapted  to  their 
requirements  and  habits,  for  some  plants  give  better  effects  when 
planted  on  a  bold  point  projecting  into  the  water-line  than  when 
planted  in  a  hollow  or  at  the  head  of  a  bay,  while  others,  which 
are  low-growing,  give  much  better  results  when  planted  close  to 
the  water  and  along  the  margin  of  a  bay  shore. 

In  laying  out  a  piece  of  water,  there  should  be  no  straight  or 
regular  lines,  that  is,  no  point  of  land  should  be  exactly  a  dupli- 
cate of  any  other  point  on  the  same  pond,  nor  should  there  be 
a  repetition  of  the  shape  of  any  of  the  bays  or  indentations  along 
the  shore  line. 

After  staking  out  the  shore  line,  next  clear  the  ground  of  any 
brush,  stumps  or  rough  weeds,  and  excavate  to  the  required  depth 
which  should  be  at  least  three  feet  in  the  deepest  part,  gradually 
getting  more  shallow  as  the  shore-line  is  approached.  If  the  soil 
thus  excavated  is  of  good  quality  it  will  be  of  value  for  dressing 
any  poorer  ground  in  the  neighborhood. 

After  the  excavation  work  is  done,  smooth  and  level  the 
entire  surface  of  the  bottom  and  sides.  Should  the  soil  be  of  a 
loamy,  rocky  or  sandy  nature  or  at  all  porous,  puddling-clay  of 
a  total  thickness  of  six  inches  must  be  laid  evenly  over  the  entire 
surface,  this  being  spread  in  two  layers,  first  one  of  four  inches 
thick  and  then  a  finishing  coat  of  two  inches.  The  clay  for  the 
puddling  should  be  free  from  all  rock  and  should  contain  not 
more  than  twenty-five  per  cent  of  sand.  After  the  first  layer  of 
four  inches  has  been  spread,  the  next  operation  is  to  break  the 
clay  up  with  picks  and  hammers  until  all  lumps  are  broken,  when 
a  good  soaking  with  water  must  be  given.  Then  with  a  tamper, 

[281] 


Gardening    in    California 


not  greater  than  one  and  one-half  inches  in  diameter  at  the  lower 
end,  give  the  whole  mass  a  thorough  tamping  until  it  is  of  the 
consistency  of  putty  as  used  for  glass  setting.  After  the  first 
layer  has  been  puddled  into  shape  and  tamped  firm  and  smooth, 
spread  and  treat  the  second  layer  in  the  same  manner,  finishing 
it  with  a  flat  tamper  about  six  inches  square  at  the  lower  end. 
This  will  give  the  whole  a  perfectly  smooth  finish. 

On  the  surface  of  the  clay,  it  is  well  to  spread  a  layer,  one 
inch  thick,  of  screened  rock  (say  of  about  one-half  inch  in  size) 
to  protect  the  clay  from  being  disturbed  by  washing  or  by  poles 
or  rods  being  driven  through  the  clay-bed  thus  making  holes 
through  which  the  water  would  escape. 

Where  the  pond  is  small,  a  thin  layer  of  concrete  should  be 
spread  on  top  of  the  rock,  as  it  makes  the  work  of  cleaning  away 
sediment  or  dirt  much  easier. 

In  addition  to  the  overflow  pipe,  there  should  be,  for  con- 
venience in  cleaning  out  the  pond,  a  pipe  of  at  least  six  inches 
in  diameter,  placed  in  the  bottom  at  the  lowest  spot  of  the  pond, 
on  the  inner  end  of  which  pipe  a  strainer  should  be  screwed  to 
keep  leaves  or  other  litter  from  entering  and  thus  choking  the 
pipe.  Of  course  drainage  pipes  are  useful  only  where  sufficient 
fall  can  be  had  in  the  ground  adjoining  the  lake.  Where  a 
sufficient  fall  cannot  be  had,  drainage  pipes  will  not  be  of  any 
use  and  should  not  be  put  in. 

Where  the  grounds  are  laid  out  in  a  formal  manner,  the  pond 
should  also  be  made  formal  in  shape,  either  circular,  like  some 
fountain-basins,  with  granite  or  concrete  copings,  or  octagonal, 
or  of  some  other  architectural  design  in  keeping  with  the 
surroundings. 

When  the  lake  or  pond  is  ready  for  the  water,  the  next  study 
is  what  plants,  if  any,  should  adorn  the  surface  of  the  water  and 
how  they  should  be  arranged.  Before  turning  in  the  water,  and 
where  it  is  decided  to  plant  Water  Lilies,  it  is  well  to  have  basins 
constructed  for  holding  the  amount  of  soil  necessary  for  growing 

[282] 


Ponds,   Lakes  and  the  Water  Garden 


these  very  interesting  and  beautiful  flowers.  These  soil-boxes 
or  basins  should  be  made,  if  possible,  of  brick  or  concrete  and 
should  be  about  fifteen  inches  deep  and  four  feet  square.  Fill 
them  with  soil  composed  of  one-half  rich  surface  loam  and  one- 
half  old  well-decomposed  cow  or  horse-manure,  the  loam  and  the 
manure  having  been  first  well-mixed  together,  a  month  or  so 
before  being  used,  by  being  turned  over  several  times.  Fill  the 
boxes  to  within  two  inches  of  the  top  and  top-dress  with  one 
inch  of  coarse  gravel. 

After  setting  out  the  Water  Lilies  (which  should  be  in  early 
March)  and  as  soon  as  the  roots  are  planted,  turn  in  the  water 
and  fill  the  pond  until  the  water  covers  the  boxes  three  inches, 
keeping  the  water  at  that  level  until  the  plants  begin  to  throw  up 
their  young  leaves  when  the  pond  may  be  filled  to  the  surface 
or  the  level  designed. 

The  planting  of  the  margin  should  now  also  be  attended  to, 
the  semi-aquatics  such  as  the  Japanese  Iris,  the  Papyrus  anti- 
quorum  and  the  Call  a  being  set  out  nearest  the  water  or  where  the 
water  is  not  more  than  a  few  inches  deep.  On  the  promontories 
may  be  planted  Bamboos,  Arundos,  Birches,  Willows,  Pampas 
grass,  Eulalias,  and,  where  the  grounds  are  very  large  the  Swamp 
Cypress  of  Louisiana  (Taxodium  distichum). 

In  planting  out  the  Water  Lilies,  place  the  Nelumbiums  in 
the  largest  basins  and  the  smaller-growing  Nymphaeas  in  the 
basins  nearer  the  edges. 

The  Nymphsea  odorata,  a  native  of  the  Eastern  States,  will 
be  found  one  of  the  best  for  general  planting,  having  beautiful 
pure-white  flowers  of  delicious  fragrance.  There  are  several 
varieties  of  this  lovely  species,  including  Nymphsea  Caroliniana 
with  petals  of  delicate  pink,  a  good  grower  with  large  flowers. 
Another  charming  variety  is  Nymphsea  exquisita,  a  moderate 
grower  with  rose-colored  flowers,  while  Nymphsea  sulphurea, 
with  yellow  flowers,  is  one  of  the  very  best  for  cultivation  in  our 
ponds,  its  flowers  being  large  and  standing  up  clear  of  the  water 

[285] 


Gardening    in    California 


from  six  to  eight  inches  and  its  leaves  being  beautifully  mottled 
with  chestnut-colored  spots. 

Nymphsea  tuberosa,  a  native  of  the  Western  States,  has  a 
beautiful  flower  pure- white  and  sometimes  as  large  as  nine  inches 
across.  This  species  should  be  planted  where  the  water  is  from 
four  to  five  feet  deep,  and  its  roots  should  be  kept  from  mixing 
with  the  smaller  growers,  otherwise  it  will  starve  them  out  and 
choke  them.  There  is  a  rose-colored  variety  of  this  species  which 
is  identical  with  the  original  excepting  in  the  color  of  the  flowers. 

Nymphsea  alba  and  its  varieties  are  also  very  desirable,  all 
having  beautiful  flowers  and  handsome  leaves,  among  the  best 
being  Nymphsea  candidissima,  with  pure-white  flowers  of  large 
size  standing  clear  of  the  water.  Nymphsea  fulgens,  as  its  name 
implies,  is  a  brilliant  crimson  with  flowers  beautifully  cupped; 
this  variety  should  be  in  every  collection.  Nymphsea  rosea  is 
another  charming  variety  with  flowers  varying  in  color  from 
pink  to  purple. 

Then  there  are  the  Marliacea  Hybrids  most  of  them  bearing 
large  flowers  in  many  shades  of  color,  some  pink,  some  red  and 
some  yellow,  while  others  have  stamens  of  a  different  color  from 
the  petals  making  effective  combinations. 

Nymphsea  cserulea,  a  distinct  species  with  blue  flowers  and 
yellow  stamens,  ought  to  be  in  every  collection. 

Nymphsea  Zanzibarensis  (the  Royal  Purple  Lily)  is  without 
doubt  one  of  the  finest  of  the  Water  Lily  family,  being  a  strong 
grower  and  a  free  bloomer  with  rich  purple  stamens  and  petals 
of  intense  blue,  and  having  a  very  sweet  odor.  The  foliage  is  a 
rich  green,  the  under-side  being  purple.  This  species  has  a  rose- 
colored  variety,  which,  on  account  of  its  color,  is  also  very 
desirable. 

Nymphsea  Devoniensis  and  its  varieties  are  another  class 
which  add  much  to  the  attractiveness  of  the  water-garden  as 
they  are  night-flowering.  They  are  very  vigorous  growers  and 
free-bloomers,  the  flowers,  under  good  cultivation,  growing 

[286] 


Ponds,   Lakes  and  the  Water  Garden 


sometimes  to  a  size  of  twelve  inches  across;   they  are  of  a  bright 
rosy  red  and  are  borne  on  stems  well  above  the  water. 

Nymphsea  lotus,  from  Egypt,  is  a  beautiful  white-flowering 
species  also  blooming  in  the  night. 


Small  Lake  Bordered  with  Willow  and  Pine. 

Nymphsea  dentata,  another  white-flowered  species,  is  one  of 
the  best  and  largest  of  the  night-flowering  varieties;  it  has  ser- 
rated leaves  of  deep  green. 

Victoria  Regia,  one  of  the  most  remarkable  productions  of 

[287] 


Gardening    in    California 


the  vegetable  kingdom,  is  a  native  of  tropical  South  America.  It 
bears  leaves  from  five  to  seven  feet  in  diameter  with  a  vertical 
rim  from  three  to  six  inches  high.  Its  deliciously  fragrant  flowers 
measure  from  twelve  to  fifteen  inches  in  diameter  and  open  about 
five  o'clock  in  the  evening,  closing  the  following  morning  about 
nine  o'clock,  reopening  about  five  or  six  o'clock  the  same  after- 
noon and  closing,  for  good,  the  morning  of  the  second  day.  The 
first  time  the  flowers  open  they  are  white  slightly  tinted  with 
pink,  the  second  time  they  open  they  are  of  a  rosy  pink.  To 
grow  well,  this  species  or  any  of  its  varieties,  must  have  a  sunny, 
sheltered  situation,  and  the  water  must  be  kept  at  a  temperature 
of  about  eighty  degrees  Fahrenheit,  which  of  course  necessitates 
artificial  heat,  this  being  produced  by  hot  water  pipes  running 
through  the  tank  or  pond  in  which  the  Victoria  is  to  be  grown. 

Nelumbium  speciosum  (Egyptian  Lotus)  is  one  of  the  best 
of  the  species,  being  a  vigorous  grower  and  a  free  bloomer  with 
flowers  of  rosy  pink. 

Nelumbium  luteum  (the  American  lotus),  is  not  quite  so 
strong-growing  as  the  Egyptian  species,  but,  on  account  of  its 
color,  should  be  in  every  collection;  its  flowers  are  pale  yellow. 
There  is  also  a  white-flowered,  strong-growing  species  named 
Nelumbium  alba  grandiflorum,  whose  white  flowers  make  it  very 
desirable,  as  they  contrast  well  with  the  pink  flowers  of  the 
Egyptian. 

The  Nelumbium  all  like  a  well-sheltered  situation  and  plenty 
of  space  to  show  to  advantage. 

Propagate  by  seeds  sown,  in  February,  in  pots  filled  with 
light  sandy  soil,  the  seeds  being  covered  about  one-quarter  of  an 
inch  deep;  submerge  the  pots,  covering  them  to  the  depth  of 
about  three  inches  and  keeping  the  water  at  a  temperature  of 
about*seventy-five  degrees  Fahrenheit.  When  the  seedlings  have 
made  two  or  three  leaves,  pot  them  singly  in  three-inch  pots, 
using  a  slightly  richer  soil  than  was  recommended  for  the  seed 
pots;  as  soon  as  they  have  filled  the  pots  with  roots,  give  them 

[288] 


Lilies. 


Ponds,   Lakes  and  the  Water  Garden 


larger  pots;  plant  out  the  hardier  species,  such  as  Nymphsea 
alba  or  Nymphsea  odorata  in  April,  and  the  Nelumbiums  a 
month  later. 

Propagation  may  also  be  effected  by  division  of  the  roots  or 
rhizomes,  in  early  Spring  before  growth  commences;  plant  at 
once  where  they  are  to  bloom. 


Babylonian  Willow. 


[291] 


Gardening    in    California 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

PARLOR   GARDENING. 

THIS  chapter  treats  of  various  kinds  of  vase-plants  suitable 
for  halls  and  apartments,  and  how  to  grow  them. 

In  order  to  be  successful  in  growing  plants  in  the  halls 
or  ordinary  rooms  of  the  dwelling-house,  we  must  select  those  ac- 
customed naturally  to  the  strong  heat  of  tropical  and  semi- 
tropical  regions,  as  they  stand  the  dry  and  dusty  air  of  a  living 
room  with  a  temperature  varying  from  fifty  to  seventy-five  de- 
grees Fahrenheit. 

It  should  perhaps  first  be  stated  that  if  the  plants  are  in- 
tended to  be  kept  close  to  the  glass  of  the  windows  and  exposed  to 
the  Southerly  sun,  a  class  will  have  to  be  selected  different  from 
those  which  can  be  grown  successfully  if  placed  either  in  the 
middle  or  toward  the  side  of  the  room  where  they  will  be  par- 
tially shaded. 

Among  the  latter  class,  that  is,  those  which  thrive  well  in  the 
middle  or  side  of  the  room,  and,  while  enjoying  the  light,  are 
injured  by  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun  shining  through  glass,  may 
be  mentioned  that  best  of  all  parlor  vase-plants,  Kentia  Belmo- 
riana,  the  ideal  condition  and  exposure  for  this  plant  being  in 
a  room  facing  the  West,  the  pot  being  placed  on  a  level  with  the 
window-sill  about  three  feet  from  the  glass.  The  window-shade 
should  be  kept  up  all  day  until  the  sun  gets  round,  when  it 
should  immediately  be  pulled  down  and  left  down  until  the  sun 
leaves  the  window,  at  which  time  it  should  again  be  raised. 

Among  other  plants  which  do  well  in  similar  conditions 
and  with  similar  treatment  may  be  mentioned  the  Rubber 
Plant  (Ficus  elastica),  Dracsena  terminalis,  Pandanus  utilis, 

[292] 


arlor     Gardening 


Dieffenbachias  and  Alocasias,  also  some  of  the  stronger-growing 
Marantas,  such  as  Maranta  zebrina,  Maranta  bicolor  and  Cal- 
adium  esculenta. 

Bamboos  make  most  effective  hall  plants  when  well  grown. 
They  also  stand  shade  well.  Another  favorite  which  thrives 
under  all  conditions  is  the  Aspidistra  lurida,  and  mention  should 
be  made  of  the  Aspidistra  lurida  variagata,  whose  broad  sword- 
shaped  leaves  have  a  fine  effect  either  in  a  hall  or  a  sitting  room. 

The  Cocos  plumosa,  Seaforthia,  Corypha  australis,  Latania 
Bourbonica,  Areca  leutescens,  and  Areca  Baurii,  also  Raphis  fla- 
belliformes  (the  Japanese  cane  palm)  are  all  satisfactory  in  the 
decorating  of  apartments. 

In  a  general  way  it  may  be  stated  that  most  of  the  plants 
which  carry  thick,  leathery,  smooth  foliage  are  satisfactory  and 
are  easily  grown,  whereas  most  of  the  plants  which  have  thin, 
transparent  foliage,  or  those  of  hairy,  downy  or  russety  texture 
do  poorly.  The  dust  sticks  to  the  fibres  of  the  thin  leaves  and 
to  the  rough  surface  of  those  which  have  a  downy  or  hairy  tex- 
ture, and,  as  this  dust  cannot  be  washed  or  sponged  off,  the  pores 
get  choked  up  and  the  leaves  turn  yellow  on  account  of  their 
lungs  being  clogged,  so  that  unless  taken  where  the  air  is  free 
from  dust  the  plants  will  sicken  and  die. 

Among  window  plants  which  stand  a  little  sun  and,  as  a  rule, 
thrive  well,  may  be  mentioned  the  shrubby  Begonias,  Geraniums, 
Petunias,  and  Nasturtiums.  Few  of  the  Fern  family  are  happy 
in  the  dry  air  of  our  apartments,  although  some  of  those  with 
leathery,  smooth  foliage  do  well  for  a  time.  The  Boston  Fern, 
(Nephrolepis  exaltata),  Pteris  critica  and  Pteris  argyrea  are 
among  the  best  for  this  purpose.  For  shady  nooks  or  verandas 
many  Ferns  do  extremely  well,  the  Five-fingered  Fern  and  the 
Woodwardia  making  excellent  growth. 


[293] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

THE     WINDOW     BOX. 

A  GREAT  many  people,  especially  of  those  residing  in  large 
cities,  have  neither  the  room  to  grow  well,  nor  perhaps  the 
money  to  spare  for  the  purchase  of  expensive  palms  or  vases 
for  the  decoration  of  their  sitting-rooms.  But  all  have  a  window 
and  a  window-sill  where  a  surprising  number  of  different  kinds  of 
handsome  foliage  and  flowering  plants  may  be  grown  well.  Even 
if  the  window-sill  be  no  wider  than  six  inches,  a  very  good  win- 
dow effect  may  be  had,  and  nothing  adds  more  to  the  appearance 
of  a  building  than  a  few  window  boxes. 

The  window  box  should  not  be  narrower  than  six  inches,  with 
a  depth  of  about  eight  inches,  and  should  be  as  long  as  the  width 
of  the  window.  After  the  box  is  made,  bore  holes  about  one 
inch  in  diameter  and  about  five  or  six  inches  apart  in  the  bottom 
of  the  box;  over  each  hole  place  a  flat  piece  of  broken  pot  or 
a  flat  stone;  without  disturbing  these  flat  stones,  put, into  the 
box  an  inch  of  gravel  or  broken  pot-sherds,  and,  over  this,  a  layer 
of  moss  to  keep  the  soil  from  mixing  with  the  drainage  material ; 
then  fill  the  box  to  within  one  inch  of  the  top  with  soil  composed 
of  one-half  good  surface  loam,  one-quarter  leaf-mold  and  one- 
quarter  sharp,  clean  sand  together  with  a  sprinkling  of  old  manure 
well-rotted,  the  whole  having  been  turned  over  and  mixed 
together  several  times  before  being  used.  In  this  soil  set  out 
the  plants  selected  for  the  window  box. 

Among  window  plants  which  generally  succeed  well,  Ivy 
Geraniums  of  various  colors  may  safely  be  depended  upon,  as 
they  stand  rough  treatment  and  grow  well  in  any  exposure. 
Where  the  window  faces  East  or  North,  the  common  Fuchsia 
does  splendidly;  the  Nasturtium  and  the  Mesembryanthemum 

[294] 


Window  Boxes. 


The    Window    Box 


also  give  fine  results,  while  the  Zonale  Pelargonium  and  the 
common  scarlet  Geranium  can  always  be  counted. upon  to  flourish. 
Blue  Lobelias,  Heliotrope,  Mignonette,  Sweet  Peas,  the  dwarf 
Campanulas  and  the  Tuberous  Begonias,  where  given  a  window 
facing  East,  will  give  gorgeous  masses  of  color.  Many  of  the 
dwarf  Cactus,  etc.,  also  do  well  if  given  a  Southern  exposure. 

In  Spring,  fine  effects  may  be  had  if  boxes  are  filled  with 
Pansies,  Violets,  Hyacinths,  Tulips,  Narcissus  and  other  Spring- 
flowering  bulbs. 

Great  care  should  always  be  exercised  in  regard  to  the  water- 
ing of  the  plants ;  see  that  the  soil  is  kept  moist  but  not  too  wet. 
When  watering,  give  enough  water  to  thoroughly  wet  the  soil 
but  do  not  give  any  more  until  the  soil  shows  signs  of  being  dry 
at  least  one-half  inch  from  the  surface. 

The  window  box  should  be  overhauled  once  a  year,  the  best 
time  being  in  Spring  just  before  growth  commences.  All  of  the 
plants  should  be  taken  out  of  the  box,  and  fresh  soil  as  well  as 
clear  drainage  material  put  in,  preferably  young  plants  being  set 
in  the  box. 

When  it  is  desirable  to  have  a  more  continuous  color  effect 
than  is  possible  with  Summer  and  Fall-flowering  plants  only,  it 
is  well  to  have  a  double  set  of  boxes,  one  set  for  the  Summer  and 
Autumn  decorations  and  another  set  for  the  growing  of  plants 
which  make  an  attractive  showing  in  Winter  and  early  Spring. 
Some  of  the  popular  Summer  and  Fall-flowering  plants  have 
already  been  described.  Prepare  the  Winter  and  Spring  boxes 
as  suggested  for  the  other  plants  and  fill  them  with  the  same  class 
of  soil.  Secure  as  early  in  the  Fall  as  possible  (say  October  1st 
to  25th),  a  collection  of  Hyacinths,  Tulips,  Narcissus  and  other 
bulbs,  and  plant  them  about  six  inches  apart  in  the  boxes.  The 
box  in  which  the  Hyacinths  are  planted  should  be  set  out  of  doors 
in  a  position  facing  North,  given  a  good  soaking  of  water,  and 
covered  with  sand  to  the  depth  (over  the  top  of  the  box)  of  six 

[297] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


inches.  Allow  them  to  remain  in  this  position  until  they  have 
made  a  growth  of  from  four  to  five  inches,  then  carefully  remove 
the  sand  from  the  top  of  the  box  and  gradually  expose  the 
blanched  leaves  to  light  and  air;  as  soon  as  the  leaves  assume 
their  natural  green  color  the  box  may  be  placed  in  the  window. 
Tulips  and  Narcissus  require  the  same  treatment,  excepting  that 
only  three  inches  of  sand,  instead  of  six  inches,  will  be  required 
to  cover  them. 

Pansies  and  Viola  cornuta  as  well  as  Forget-me-not  make 
excellent  subjects  for  Winter  and  Spring-flowering  window 
boxes.  Sow  the  seeds  of  Pansies  and  also  Forget-me-not  in  early 
July  and  plant  them  three  inches  apart  in  boxes  as  soon  as  they 
have  made  from  four  to  six  leaves.  About  November  first  they 
will  be  ready  to  be  planted  six  inches  apart  in  the  window  boxes. 
The  Viola  cornuta  seeds  should  be  sown  early  in  June  and  grown 
on  as  suggested  for  the  treatment  of  the  Pansy  and  Forget-me-not. 

Another  charming  Winter  and  early  Spring-flowering  plant 
suitable  for  decorating  the  window  is  the  modest  little  Silene 
(catchfly)  ;  sow  in  July  and  grow  as  recommended  for  the  Pansy. 

It  may  be  stated  that  the  dimensions  of  the  box  given  here 
are  for  the  narrowest  window-sill;  should  the  window-sill  be 
twelve  inches  or  more  in  width,  much  better  results  may  be 
expected  both  in  the  health  of  the  plants  and  the  greater  number 
of  plants  which  may  be  grown. 

Should  insects  attack  any  of  the  plants,  sponge  the  leaves  with 
soap-suds,  and,  the  following  morning,  sprinkle  them  with  clear 
water.  Keep  the  foliage  clear  of  dust  by  syringing  or  spraying 
the  leaves  with  clear,  soft  water.  This  will  greatly  encourage 
growth  and  assist  in  keeping  the  plants  in  good  health. 


[298 


The    Amateur's    Conservatory 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

THE   AMATEUR'S    CONSERVATORY. 

A  GREAT  deal  of  pleasure  without  a  large  outlay  of  expense 
can  be  derived  from  a  small  Conservatory  or  even  a  Plant- 
room  attached  to  the  dwelling-house.  In  a  small  Conserva- 
tory, the  first  requisite  is  perfect  command  of  the  ventilation,  and 
the  next,  perfect  command  of  the  light  by  having  the  sides  which 
are  exposed  to  the  sun,  provided  with  spring  blinds  or  shades  so 
that  in  clear,  dry  weather  the  direct  rays  of  the  sun  may  be  kept 
off  the  foliage.  Otherwise,  the  foliage  is  apt  to  become  scorched 
and  blistered,  and  besides,  when  the  air  of  the  Conservatory  gets 
too  hot  and  dry,  it  takes  away  from  the  leaves  that  lively,  fresh 
finish,  which  is  so  much  of  the  beauty  of  the  plant  carrying  per- 
fect leaves. 

We  build  a  Conservatory  to  enable  us  to  enjoy  the  vegetation 
of  the  tropics  or  of  countries  with  warmer  climates  than  our 
own.  Let  us  then  fill  the  Conservatory  with  plants  which  cannot 
be  successfully  cultivated  in  the  open  air,  and  not  with  Roses, 
Carnations,  Geraniums,  etc. 

The  plants  best  suited  for  Conservatories  are  the  finer  Palms 
and  Dracaenas,  the  finer  Ferns  such  as  the  Adiantum,  the  Daval- 
lia,  Asplenium,  the  tropical  Gymnogramea,  and  many  others 
which  are  easily  grown  in  a  temperature  between  fifty-five  and 
eighty  degrees  Fahrenheit,  provided  they  are  sheltered  from  the 
direct  rays  of  the  sun,  are  given  a  moist  atmosphere  and  are  not 
subjected  to  cold  draughts  of  air  blowing  through  the  plant 
house. 

Special  care  must  be  given  to  preparing  the  soil  for  Palms. 

Most  of  the  Palm  family  enjoy  a  good,  strong  soil,  one  com- 
posed of  one-half  good  yellow  surface  loam,  one-quarter  well- 

[299] 


Gardening    in    California 


rotted  horse-manure,  and  one-quarter  well-decomposed  leaf- 
mold,  with  a  sprinkling  of  good  sharp  sand,  suiting  them  well. 
A  soil  composed  of  these  parts  should  be  turned  over  several 
times,  so  as  to  insure  that  all  are  well-mixed  together. 

Before  potting,  the  pots  must  be  thoroughly  clean  and  dry. 
If  the  pots  are  new,  they  must  be  well  soaked  in  water  (being  left 
in  the  water  sufficiently  long  to  get  saturated),  and  then 


Interior  of  Greenhouse. 

allowed  to  dry  before  being  used.  When  a  new  pot  is  not  soaked 
before  being  used,  it  frequently  happens  that  the  first  few  water- 
ings, instead  of  being  beneficial  to  the  plant,  only  serve  to  soak 
the  pot,  while  the  ball  of  soil,  which  the  pot  contains,  becomes 
so  dry  that  it  is  a  difficult  matter  to  again  get  it  into  a  satisfactory, 
moist  condition. 

One  of  the  most  common  errors  among  amateur  gardeners  is 
to  put  their  plants  into  pots  which  are  too  large.  A  pot  which 
will  hold  all  the  roots,  leaving  one-half  of  an  inch  of  fresh  soil 

[300] 


The    Amateur's    Conservatory 


around  the  old  ball,  is  quite  large  enough  for  a  change  of  pot; 
for  example,  if  a  plant  growing  in  a  four-inch  pot  should  require 
a  change,  it  should  have  the  ball  of  earth  reduced  so  that  it  may 
be  repotted  in  one  which  is  five  inches  in  diameter.  Over-potting 
should  be  guarded  against,  as  if  a  Palm  or  a  Fern  is  given  a  pot 
which  is  too  large,  a  little  over-watering  sours  the  soil,  and  kills 
the  roots. 

In  taking  a  plant  out  of  a  pot  to  put  it  into  a  larger  one,  the 
pot,  in  which  the  plant  is,  should  be  turned  upside  down  and  the 
edge  of  the  pot  tapped  gently  so  as  to  start  the  ball  of  soil.  All 
the  drainage  material  must  be  taken  from  the  bottom  of  the  ball. 
The  roots  must  be  carefully  examined,  and,  if  they  are  not  in 
good  health  and  condition,  must  be  cut,  with  a  knife,  back  into 
sound  wood;  any  loose  soil  should  be  removed,  and  then  the  plant 
can  be  repotted  in  a  pot  a  size  larger  than  it  formerly  occupied. 
This,  of  course,  is  provided  the  roots  are  in  good  condition,  as  if 
they  are  not  so,  the  plant  should  be  repotted  in  a  pot  the  same 
size  as  formerly,  and  should  be  kept  in  that  size  of  pot  until  the 
plant  forms  fresh  roots,  when  it  should  be  repotted  in  one  a  size 
larger. 

The  question  as  to  what  size  of  pot  should  be  used  for  a  plant 
is  one  which  is  often  asked.  This  depends  not  only  upon  the  size 
of  the  plant,  but  also  upon  what  kind  of  plant  it  is;  for  example, 
whether  it  is  a  plant  which  is  a  fast,  strong  grower,  or  one  of 
slow  growth;  whether  its  roots  are  soft  and  fleshy,  or  whether 
they  are  of  a  fine,  hair-like  texture,  etc.,  etc.  Palms,  for  instance, 
which  carry  six  leaves,  three  feet  in  length,  will  do  better  and 
will  be  more  easily  kept  in  a  healthy-growing  condition  if  potted 
in  good  soil  in  a  seven-inch  pot  than  if  in  one  which  is  much 
larger. 

See  Chapter  XXII,  "The  Calendar  of  Operations,"  for  sug- 
gestions and  detailed  instructions  as  to  the  work  in  the  Green- 
house or  Conservatory,  month  by  month,  throughout  the  year. 

[301] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

TREATMENT    OF    THE    COMMON    DISEASES    OF,    AND    INSECTS 
INJURIOUS    TO    PLANTS. 

DISEASES  of  plants  are  many  and  varied,  some  being 
the  result  of  attacks  of  injurious  insects,  while  others 
are  caused  by  fungus  growth  which  comes  from 
improper  nutrition  and  poor  circulation,  or  from  very  sud- 
den atmospheric  changes:  —  for  example,  from  warm,  balmy 
weather  which  encourages  rapid  growth,  to  cold,  harsh  winds 
which  seem  to  chill  the  whole  plant  while  checking  its 
growth.  The  plant  in  these  conditions  suffers  particularly 
from  the  fact  that,  on  account  of  the  soil  being  warm, 
the  roots  continue  sending  up  supplies  of  sap  of  greater  quantity 
than  the  leaves  and  soft  stems  (being  so  chilled  and  semi-para- 
lyzed by  the  cold  air)  are  able  to  assimilate,  and  thus  there  is 
caused  a  choking  of  the  sap-vessels  which  greatly  weakens  the 
plant,  so  that  it  gets  into  a  condition  susceptible  to  an  attack  by 
any  disease.  Unless  the  weather  moderates  so  that  the  plant  can 
again  make  vigorous  growth  and  throw  off  the  attack,  it  may 
suffer  severely  and  take  weeks  and,  sometimes  even  months  to 
recover. 

The  most  common  of  the  fungus  diseases  is  undoubtedly  the 
Powdery  Mildew,  which  attacks  leaves,  stems,  flowers  and  fruits. 
It  appears  like  a  thin  white  powder  at  first  over  the  leaves,  after- 
wards spreading  to  the  stems,  stopping  at  once  and  entirely  the 
further  growth  of  the  part  attacked.  It  is  propagated  by  spores 
which  increase  with  amazing  rapidity,  often  dwarfing  and  some- 
times killing  outright  the  whole  plant.  There  are  several  kinds 
of  Mildew  including  the  Rose  Mildew,  the  Grape  Vine  Mildew, 

[302] 


Diseases  and   Injurious   Insects 


the  Hop  Mildew,  the  Pear  Mildew,  etc.  All  varieties  of  Mildew 
may  be  checked  by  dusting  flowers  of  sulphur  over  the  affected 
and  the  adjoining  parts  of  the  plant. 

As  soon  as  the  least  speck  of  Mildew  is  noticed  on  any  part  of 
the  plant,  the  affected  part  should  at  once  be  given  a  good  dusting, 
and  this  work  should  not  be  delayed  an  hour  longer  than  is  neces- 
sary, otherwise  serious  damage  will  be  the  result : — for  example, 
if  the  plant  attacked  is  a  Rose,  the  Mildew,  if  not  checked,  will 
ruin  the  crop  of  flowers. 

Bordeaux  Mixture  is  also  a  good  cure  for  Mildew,  and  may 
be  used  if  sulphur  should  fail,  and  should  be  applied  in  the  same 
manner  as  sulphur. 

A  sulphur  bellows  made  especially  for  use  in  this  work  may 
be  procured  from  any  seedsman  at  little  cost,  and  it  will  be  found 
that  the  use  of  the  bellows  economizes  the  sulphur. 

Green  Flies  (Aphides),  sometimes  called  Plant  Lice,  are 
very  destructive  to  the  young  shoots  and  foliage  of  plants, 
especially  Roses  on  which  they  congregate  in  large  numbers  and 
send  their  long  sharp  feelers  into  the  bark  and  leaves,  sucking 
the  juice  from  the  plants.  As  they  multiply  with  astonishing 
rapidity,  they,  if  not  destroyed,  will  eventually  cause  the  destruc- 
tion of  the  parts  affected,  and  this  in  a  very  short  time. 

The  best  remedies  for  successfully  getting  rid  of  these  pests 
are  Tobacco  and  Whale-oil  Soap ;  even  common  soap-suds,  when 
not  too  strongly  impregnated  with  soda  or  chloride  of  lime,  will 
be  found  effective  for  this  purpose  if  the  foliage  is  syringed 
freely  in  the  evening  and  sprayed  with  clear  water  through  the 
hose  the  following  morning.  This  should  be  done  three  consecu- 
tive evenings. 

To  apply  the  tobacco,  one  pound  of  the  common  tobacco- 
leaf  should  be  first  soaked  in  six  gallons  of  hot  water  to  which 
should  be  added  one-half  pound  of  soft  black  or  whale-oil  soap. 
These  should  be  mixed  together  by  the  syringe,  and  the  plant 

[303]' 


Gardening    in    Californi 


should  be  thoroughly  syringed  with  the  liquid  in  the  evenings 
and  washed  by  the  hose  with  clear  water  early  the  following 
mornings. 

Sometimes  it  is  not  desirable  to  use  tobacco  in  liquid  form. 
In  that  case  the  leaves  can  be  dusted  freely  with  tobacco  dust 
which  should  be  left  on  the  foliage  for  about  forty-eight  hours, 
and  then  washed  off  with  the  hose.  Should  the  first  application 
be  not  effective,  a  second  or  even  a  third  application  can  be  made 
until  all  the  flies  are  cleared  off. 

Several  prepared  mixtures  are  sold  by  seedsmen,  such  as  Gis- 
hurst's  Compound,  Fir-Tree  oil,  etc.,  which,  if  applied  as  directed 
on  the  labels,  will  be  found  effective.  Often  water  used  freely 
with  the  hose  under  good  pressure  will  clean  them  off  if  applied 
before  the  flies  have  got  too  strong  a  hold  on  the  plant. 

There  are  other  kinds  of  Aphides  some  of  which  are  black  and 
attack  Cherries  and  other  fruit  trees,  but  they  generally  yield  to 
the  same  treatment. 

When  the  Aphides  attack  plants  in  a  green-house,  fumigation 
with  tobacco  stems  will  be  found  the  best  remedy.  A  close,  dull 
evening  should  be  selected  and  the  foliage  of  the  plants  should  be 
perfectly  dry. 

To  effectively  fumigate  a  green-house  it  is  necessary  to  get 
an  iron  pot  into  which  should  be  put  a  few  pieces  of  lighted  char- 
coal, on  which  should  be  spread  a  few  tobacco  stems.  On  top  of 
the  tobacco  a  layer  of  damp  moss  should  be  placed,  and  the  house 
should  be  densely  filled  with  the  smoke,  care  being  taken  that  no 
flame  arises  in  the  burning.  The  house  must  be  kept  perfectly 
closed  for  twelve  hours.  Then  the  ventilator  should  be  opened 
and  the  plants  syringed  freely  with  clean,  tepid  water.  Should 
the  first  smoking  not  be  effective,  the  operation  can  be  repeated 
a  second  evening  in  the  same  manner,  and,  when  the  fly  has  had 
a  long  hold  on  the  plants,  it  may  be  necessary  to  fumigate  even 
a  third  time. 

[304] 


Diseases  and  Injurious  Insects 


A  pest  which  is  responsible  for  a  great  many  of  our  worst 
failures  in  plant  cultivation  is  Thrips,  as  it  attacks  some  of  our 
most  delicate  and  most  finely  leaved  plants,  and  from  the  fact 
that  this  insect  is  so  very  small,  it  is  generally  not  noticed  until 
considerable  damage  has  been  done. 

It  feeds  only  on  the  juices  and  fleshy  parts  of  the  leaves,  leav- 
ing the  fibrous  parts  untouched,  giving  the  plant  a  withered, 
blighted  appearance. 

This  insect  may  be  recognized  by  its  narrow,  black  or  brown 
body,  and  its  four  straight  narrow  wings  which  are  fringed  with 
hairs  in  saw-like  edges.  There  are  several  varieties,  but  as  they 
are  all  equally  destructive  and  yield  to  the  same  treatment,  it  is 
unnecessary  to  further  refer  to  their  identification.  When  the 
pest  is  found  to  be  infesting  a  green-house,  the  fumigating  treat- 
ment as  recommended  for  Aphides  produces  satisfactory  results. 
When  the  insect  is  found  on  shrubs  out  of  doors,  the  plants  should 
be  well  syringed  with  tobacco  water,  care  also  being  taken  to  see 
that  the  plants  are  well  watered  at  the  roots,  this  watering  giving 
additional  vigor  to  the  plants  which  will  tend  to  render  the  Thrip 
attack  harmless. 

The  Red  Spider  is  a  small  eight-legged  mite  which  receives 
its  name  from  its  color  (always  of  a  rusty  red).  It  has  the  spider 
habit  of  spinning  a  fine  web,  generally  on  the  under  side  of  the 
leaves  of  trees.  It  is  so  small  that  it  is  almost  invisible  to  the 
naked  eye. 

When  Red  Spiders  establish  themselves  on  a  plant,  they  spin 
webs  of  very  fine  texture  on  the  under  side  of  the  leaves.  Then 
by  means  of  their  suckers  they  bore  into  the  leaves  and  suck  out 
the  juice  or  sap.  The  leaf  becomes  yellow  and  covered  with 
spots,  ultimately  dies  and  drops  prematurely.  Sometimes  an 
attack  of  this  pest  strips  the  tree  months  before  the  usual  time; 
if  a  fruit  tree,  the  crop  for  the  year  fails,  and  besides,  the  branches 
formed  for  the  following  year  are  stunted  and  immature. 

[305] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


The  Red  Spider  seldom  attacks  plants  in  a  good  healthy  con- 
dition, unless  they  suffer  from  drought.  Hence  any  measures 
which  encourage  vigorous  growth,  such  as  plenty  of  water  at  the 
roots,  frequent  hosing  overhead,  mulching  the  ground  around  the 
plants  with  manure  and  freely  cultivating  the  soil,  diminish  the 
effects  of  the  attack  to  a  great  extent. 

When  a  plant  is  attacked  by  Red  Spiders,  equal  parts  of  sul- 
phur and  coal-soot  should  be  mixed  and  dusted  freely  over  the 
entire  plant,  or  one  pound  of  sulphur-dust  with  two  pounds  of 
soot  should  be  put  into  six  gallons  of  water  and  syringed  over  the 
plant  attacked.  If  this  pest  gets  into  a  green-house,  the  hot  water 
pipe  should  be  painted  with  a  paste  made  of  sulphur  and  quick- 
lime in  equal  parts.  If  the  green-house  is  heated,  the  leaves  should 
be  dusted  with  sulphur  and  soot  as  recommended  for  out  of  door 
plants,  while  the  atmosphere  of  the  green-house  should  be  kept 
in  a  moist  condition,  and,  if  these  suggestions  are  followed  and 
careful  attention  is  given  to  the  watering  of  the  roots,  the  Red 
Spider  will  not  make  much  headway. 

Caterpillars  are  of  various  kinds,  some  species  attacking  only 
Oaks,  while  others  confine  their  operations  to  the  leaves  of  the 
Rose,  and  still  others  are  found  only  on  the  Hawthorn  or  Cab- 
bage, etc.  Those  which  live  in  webs,  such  as  the  common  Oak 
tree  caterpillar,  can  easily  be  cut  off  and  destroyed  by  waiting 
until  evening  when  they  invariably  return  home  after  feeding 
on  the  Oak  leaves  all  day.  The  branch  on  which  they  have  woven 
their  webby  home  should  be  cut  off,  and  the  caterpillars  can  then 
be  crushed  or  piled  up  and  set  fire  to.  In  the  case  of  those  whose 
nests  are  too  high  to  be  reached  by  hand,  the  branch  can  be  cut 
with  long-handled  shears  and  the  caterpillars  can  be  destroyed 
as  just  suggested,  or,  if  preferred,  an  oiled  rag  can  be  tied  to  a 
long  pole  and  lit,  and  the  web  of  the  nest  of  caterpillars  touched 
with  the  lighted  rag,  their  home  thus  being  destroyed  and  the 
whole  colony  killed.  No  attempt  should  be  made  to  destroy  them 

[306] 


Diseases  and  Injurious   Insects 


in  the  middle  of  the  day,  as  they  are  at  that  time  feeding  all  over 
the  tree,  and  any  which  are  overlooked  will  immediately  com- 
mence building  a  new  nest,  and  consequently  multiply  the  number 
of  nests  to  be  destroyed. 

The  common  Rose  caterpillar  is  easily  got  rid  of  by  hand- 
picking  or  by  dusting  with  Paris  green. 

Slugs  are  about  the  commonest  pest,  and  these  destructive 
molluscles  are  well  known  to  all  garden  owners.  They  seem  par- 
tial to  soft-wooded  plants  of  low  growth,  hiding  under  the  leaves 
which  touch  the  ground,  and  feeding  on  the  undergrowth  and 
flower  stalks,  seeming  to  take  delight  in  eating  holes  into  or  pieces 
out  of  the  leaves  and  flower-stems,  thus  ruining  many  promising 
flower-beds. 

Among  the  most  effective  remedies  are  baits  of  cabbage  and 
lettuce  leaves  laid  near  the  plants  which  need  protection.  These 
traps  should  be  set  in  the  evening  and  examined  the  next  morn- 
ing; the  slugs  should  be  shaken  off  and  covered  with  lime,  salt 
or  wood  ashes.  All  of  these  applications  should  be  repeated  at 
least  once,  as  the  slugs  seem  to  have  strength  enough  to  crawl  off 
with  one  coat  of  the  dust  and  to  throw  it  off  with  a  coat  of  slime, 
but  the  second  application  invariably  kills  them.  Frequent  dust- 
ing of  the  ground  immediately  around  where  the  plants  are 
troubled  has  a  great  tendency  to  drive  off  the  slugs.  A  little  dust- 
ing of  lime  close  to  the  neck  of  favorite  plants  is  also  a  good  cure 
and  a  better  preventive.  A  dressing  of  soot  is  a  very  good  fer- 
tilizer and  a  good  protection  against  all  the  varieties  of  slugs 
and  snails. 

The  Scale  insects  are  among  the  most  dangerous  and  trouble- 
some of  injurious  insects,  a  single  female  raising  from  two  hun- 
dred to  five  hundred  at  a  single  brood.  They  are  said  to  hatch 
four  or  five  generations  a  year.  For  the  clearing  of  nursery  stock, 
hydrocyanic  acid  gas  is  frequently  used  by  fumigating,  but,  as 
it  is  necessary  to  have  the  use  of  a  tent  in  doing  this,  it  is  not 

[307] 


Gardening    in    California 


always  convenient  for  the  amateur,  and,  unless  the  operation  is 
very  carefully  carried  out,  damage  to  the  plant  may  result. 

A  favorite  remedy  for  the  common  black  or  brown  scale  is  a 
strong  mixture  of  tobacco  and  whale-oil  soap,  the  soap  suffocating 
them  by  closing  the  breathing  pores  along  the  sides  of  their  bodies. 
Use  about  one-quarter  pound  of  the  soap  and  two  ounces  of 
extract  of  tobacco  to  a  gallon  of  water  and  syringe  the  plants 
about  three  times  a  week,  syringing  with  clear  water  the  day  fol- 
lowing the  application  of  the  mixture;  continue  the  spraying 
until  all  of  the  scale  are  washed  off. 


Canary  Islands  Date  Palm. 


A  Few  Explanations  and  Directions 


CHAPTER  xx. 

A    FEW    EXPLANATIONS    AND    DIRECTIONS. 

IN  writing  this  book,  it  has  been,  at  times,  convenient  to  apply 
terms  commonly  in  use  by  professional  gardeners. 

As  the  exact  significance  of  some  of  these  may  not  be 
known  to  all  readers,  it  has  been  thought  that  the  following 
explanations  and  directions  may  be  of  service. 

MULCHING  AND  TOP  DRESSING. 

As  stated  in  Chapter  VI,  mulching  is  the  best  means  of  pre- 
serving a  steady  degree  of  moisture  in  the  soil  and  of  keeping  it 
at  an  even  temperature.  It  also  prevents  the  soil  from  cracking 
and  proves  beneficial  on  account  of  its  substance  being  washed 
into  the  soil  by  rains  or  artificial  watering;  in  fact,  there  is  no 
practice  more  beneficial  to  newly  planted  trees  or  plants,  of  almost 
any  kind,  than  a  good  mulching,  especially  in  a  climate  like  ours. 
It  saves  much  labor  in  watering,  and,  as  has  just  been  stated,  is 
the  best  means  of  preserving  a  uniform  degree  of  moisture  in  the 
soil  surrounding  the  root.  This  is  emphasized  by  repetition,  as  it 
is  a  most  important  point  and,  other  things  being  equal,  plants 
will  languish  or  thrive  just  in  proportion  as  this  condition  is 
secured. 

Although  mulching  is  apparently  a  very  simple  operation,  it 
must  be  carefully  done.  Before  mulching  a  newly  planted  tree, 
the  soil  should  be  shaped  in  the  form  of  a  basin,  the  rim  of  which 
is  extended  one  foot  beyond  the  extremity  of  the  roots.  The  rim 
should  be  three  or  four  inches  higher  than  the  bottom  of  the  basin 
so  that  rain  or  water  applied  artificially  will  be  retained.  The 
mulch  should  be  kept  at  least  three  inches  away  from  the  stem 
of  the  tree. 

[309] 


Gardening    in    California 


The  best  mulch  for  trees  is  half-decomposed  stable-manure, 
which  should  be  spread  about  three  inches  thick  and  levelled 
evenly;  about  half  an  inch  of  soil  should  be  spread  over  the 
manure  to  keep  it  from  shifting  in  event  of  heavy  wind.  Where 
stable-manure  cannot  be  had,  half-rotted  tree-leaves,  short  grass 
cuttings  and  even  tan-bark  are  suitable. 

The  practise  of  mulching  may  be  carried  into  the  flower-beds, 
as  well  as  to  the  trees  and  shrubs.  The  writer  has  personally 
found  the  mulching  of  flowering  plants  to  be  of  great  value.  The 
soil  is  not  compressed  by  watering  nor  baked  into  a  crust  by  the 
sun ;  evaporation  is  arrested  and  the  growth  materially  increased. 

In  mulching  flowering  plants  the  material  to  be  used  should 
be  well-rotted  stable-manure  or  thoroughly  decomposed  leaf-soil 
and  should  not  be  spread  more  thickly  on  the  surface  than  one- 
half  inch. 

The  mulching  of  lawns  should  be  also  very  carefully  done. 
Owing  to  the  continuous,  heavy,  artificial  watering  necessary  in 
our  dry  climate,  mulching  is  of  great  benefit  both  in  preserving 
the  health  and  vigor  of  the  grass  and  in  preventing  evaporation. 
July  is  the  best  month  for  doing  this.  After  about  two  months 
of  watering  with  the  hose  or  sprinkler,  the  soil  will  be  found  to 
have  become  hard  and  washed  looking  while  the  small  roots  of 
the  grass  will  be  partially  exposed,  thus  necessarily  requiring  more 
frequent  and  more  copious  watering.  The  best  mulch  for  a  lawn 
in  this  condition  is  a  covering  of  about  one-half  inch  of  well-rotted 
stable-manure  spread  evenly  over  the  entire  surface  of  the  lawn. 
This  will  give  a  soft  springy  surface  and  renewed  life  and  growth 
to  the  grass  while  its  color  will  become  much  darker.  It  will  not 
then  require  nearly  so  much  water  to  keep  fresh  and  vigorous. 

Mulching  newly  sown  grass  or  other  seeds  means  spreading  a 
thin  layer  of  clean,  fresh  straw  over  the  surface  of  the  ground,  its 
purpose  being  to  shade  the  ground  until  the  seeds  germinate.  The 
straw  should  be  raked  off  when  the  grass  is  one  inch  high. 

[3io] 


A  Few  Explanations  and  Directions 


PRICKING  OUT. 

This  is  a  term  which  is  applied  to  the  removal  of  small  seed- 
ling plants,  from  the  seed-bed,  to  pots  or  boxes.  The  operation 
is  generally  carried  out  as  soon  as  the  young  seedlings  are  about 
one  inch  in  height.  They  should  be  lifted  from  the  seed-bed  by 
hand,  the  soil  shaken  carefully  from  the  roots  and  the  plants 
placed  singly  on  a  thin  board  or  on  the  surface  of  the  soil  in  the 
box  in  which  the  young  seedlings  are  to  be  pricked  out.  They 
should  then  be  taken  singly  by  the  upper  leaves  between  the  finger 
and  thumb  of  the  left  hand;  a  hole  should  be  made  in  the  soil 
with  the  forefinger  of  the  right  hand  or  with  a  dibble  and  the 
roots  of  the  young  seedlings  should  be  carefully  placed  into  that 
hole  so  that  the  lower  leaf  or  leaves  of  the  plant  rest  on  the  sur- 
face; the  soil  should  then  be  gently  pressed  about  the  roots. 
When  the  box  or  pot  is  filled,  the  young  plants  should  receive  a 
gentle  watering  with  the  watering-pot  through  a  fine  rose.  They 
should  then  be  returned  to  a  position  and  temperature  similar  to 
that  in  which  they  were  grown,  and  shaded  from  strong  sunshine 
for  a  few  days  or  until  the  young  plants  have  made  fresh  roots 
when  they  may  be  gradually  exposed  to  light  and  air. 

BUDDING. 

The  usual  method  of  increasing  plants,  provided  by  nature, 
is  by  seeds.  Seeds  increase  species,  but  as  the  peculiarities  of 
varieties  can  rarely  be  perpetuated  in  the  same  manner,  there 
arose  the  necessity  of  finding  a  method  of  increasing  a  variety  so 
that  its  qualities  would  not  be  altered,  and  this  can  be  accom- 
plished by  budding.  The  possibilities  of  grafting  and  budding 
however,  have  certain  limitations.  Those  trees  only  which  are 
allied  to  each  other  respond  so  that  the  budding  operations  can  be 
successfully  performed. 

As  a  general  rule,  the  seed,  cone,  nut  and  mast-bearing  wood 


Gardening    in    Californi 


should  be  worked  on  each  other,  and  unless  the  stock  and  scion 
or  bud  are  nearly  related  (such  as  varieties  of  the  same  species, 
species  of  the  same  genera,  genera  of  the  same  order),  the  result 
will  be  unsuccessful. 

Budding  is  an  operation  by  which  a  bud,  together  with  a 
portion  of  the  bark,  is  removed  from  a  plant  and  inserted  be- 
neath the  inner  bark  of  another  plant  or  beneath  the  bark  of  the 
same  plant.  The  best  time  for  budding  is  when  the  cambium 
or  sap  is  flowing  freely,  allowing  the  bark  to  be  easily  raised 
from  the  wood.  When  the  stock  and  the  tree  or  bush,  from 
which  the  bud  is  taken,  are  in  that  condition,  the  operation  will 
be  successful  and  the  union  of  the  bud  with  the  stock  most  readily 
effected.  If  the  bark  adheres  firmly  to  the  wood,  it  shows  that 
the  flow  of  sap  has  been  arrested  and  in  that  case  budding  should 
not  be  attempted. 

In  operating,  take  a  shoot  from  the  tree  or  bush  (from  which 
buds  are  to  be  worked)  and  immediately  cut  off  the  leaves  within 
one  inch  of  the  stem;  make  a  transverse  incision  in  the  stock, 
and,  from  the  middle  of  this,  make  a  longitudinal  one.  A  bud 
should  now  be  removed  from  the  shoot  by  taking  the  shoot  in 
the  left  hand  and  entering  the  knife  about  one-half  inch  below 
the  bud,  more  or  less,  according  to  the  size  of  the  shoot  and  of 
the  stock;  with  a  clean,  sloping  cut  pass  the  knife  upward  and 
inward  till  under  the  bud,  and  then  slope  outward  so  that  the  eye 
or  bud  may  be  nearly  in  the  middle  of  the  piece  thus  detached. 
In  doing  this,  the  knife  will  necessarily  cut  off  a  portion  of  the 
wood  along  with  the  bud;  this  should  be  removed.  To  do  so, 
turn  the  surface  upward,  holding  the  piece  between  the  fore- 
finger and  thumb  of  the  left  hand,  enter  the  point  of  the 
knife  between  the  inner  bark  and  upper  extremity  of  the 
wood,  raise  the  extremity  a  little,  so  that  it  can  be  laid 
hold  of  between  the  point  of  the  knife  and  the  nail  of  the  thumb, 
and  then  by  a  twitch  remove  the  wood.  Be  careful  to  see  that, 
along  with  the  wood,  the  core  of  the  bud  is  not  also  removed. 


A  Few  Explanations  and  Directions 


If  the  core  comes  along  with  the  wood  the  bud  is  unlikely  to  be 
a  success,  and  another  bud  should  be  taken. 

The  bud  is  now  ready  for  insertion.  With  the  ivory  handle 
of  the  budding  knife,  raise  the  bark  of  the  stock  at  the  incision 
before  mentioned ;  commencing  at  the  corners  immediately  below 
the  cross-cut,  slip  in  the  handle  of  the  knife  gently  and  carefully 
avoiding  any  forcing  or  scratching  of  the  wood  or  bark.  When 
the  bark  is  sufficiently  raised  to  admit  the  bud,  take  the  bud  by 
the  leaf  stalk  and  gently  insert  it  by  the  assistance  of  the  ivory 
handle.  Let  the  upper  part  of  the  bud  be  at  the  cross-cut  of  the 
stock  so  that  the  bud  may  fit  closely  to  the  upper  edge  of  the  cut. 
The  operation,  to  be  done  well,  should  be  done  quickly,  for  the 
organizing  tissue  is  very  delicate  and  soon  becomes  injured  by 
exposure. 

The  bud,  after  having  been  inserted,  must  be  bound  by  fine 
matting  or  worsted,  and,  in  doing  this,  care  must  be  taken  not 
to  move  the  bud  in  any  way  which  will  cause  friction  and  so 
injure  the  tissues  below  it.  In  tying,  commence  below  the  end 
of  the  incision  and  pass  the  tie  closely  round  as  far  as  the  bud, 
keeping  the  bud  close  to  the  stock.  Continue  binding  closely 
until  reaching  the  cross  incision;  make  one  or  two  turns  above 
the  cross-cut  and  fasten  the  ends  of  the  tie.  The  operation  is  now 
completed. 

As  soon  as  it  has  been  ascertained  that  the  bud  has  taken, 
the  ties  should  be  loosened  and  retied,  to  prevent  the  galling  of 
the  bud  by  the  ties  becoming  too  tight. 

When  the  bud  has  become  thoroughly  established,  which  will 
be  known  by  the  bud  swelling  and  beginning  to  make  new 
growth,  the  stock  must  be  cut  back  close  to  the  bud.  Should  the 
bud  make  a  strong,  soft  shoot  it  may  be  necessary  to  support  it 
for  a  few  weeks  by  tying  the  shoot  to  a  stake  until  hard,  firm 
growth  is  attained. 

There  are  many  other  modes  of  budding,  but  the  method 
described  will  be  found  the  best  for  general  use. 


Gardening    in    Californi 


GRAFTING. 

Grafting  is  an  operation  in  which  two  cut  surfaces  of  the 
same  plant  or  of  different  plants  are  placed  so  as  to  unite  and 
grow  together.  The  portion  cut  off  is  termed  the  scion  or  graft 
and  the  plant  on  which  it  is  worked  or  grafted  is  called  the  stock. 

Whip-grafting  is  generally  considered  the  best  kind  of  graft- 
ing and  is  the  one  most  extensively  used. 

When  the  stock  and  the  scion  are  of  equal  thickness,  the  wood 
of  the  cut  surfaces  when  placed  together,  should  cover  each  other 
completely  and  exactly,  so  that  the  inner  bark  of  the  stock 
touches  the  inner  bark. of  the  scion. 

In  proceeding  to  operate,  cut  the  stock  in  a  sloping  direction, 
terminating,  if  possible,  above  a  bud.  Then  take  the  scion  and 
cut  it  sloping  from  above  and  thin  towards  the  end,  the  shape  of 
the  scion  being  similar  to  that  of  the  stock ;  cut  a  split  or  tongue 
a  little  above  the  middle  of  the  scion  and  a  like  tongue  in  the 
cut  surface  of  the  stock,  the  purpose  of  the  tongues  being  to  hold 
the  parts  together.  The  parts  should  then  be  secured  by  being 
tied  with  matting  or  other  material  and  surrounded  with  graft- 
ing-wax, clay  or  some  other  substance  which  will  exclude  the  air 
and  wet. 

There  are  several  other  modes  of  grafting  including  Saddle- 
grafting,  Cleft-grafting  and  Side-grafting,  the  object  being  in 
all  systems  to  bring  together  the  inner  bark  so  that  the  sap  vessels 
of  the  stock  will  fit  exactly  with  the  sap  vessels  of  the  scion,  and 
to  securely  keep  them  in  position  until  a  union  is  effected. 


PROPAGATION  BY  CUTTINGS. 

A  cutting  is  an  entirely  detached  portion  of  a  plant,  usually 
a  shoot  or  part  of  a  shoot,  having  buds  or  buds  and  leaves.  Cut- 
tings should  be  taken  only  from  healthy  plants  and  from  parts 
of  these  which  are  not  in  a  weakly  state,  and,  further,  only  from 

[3H] 


A  Few  Explanations  and  Directions 


those  portions  of  the  plants  which  have  been  exposed  to  full 
light  and  air,  for,  if  the  shoots  or  branches  of  a  plant,  are  not  in 
a  condition  to  make  growth  with  a  supply  of  nourishment  from 
roots  of  the  parent  plant,  they  cannot,  when  made  into  cuttings, 
be  expected  to  possess  sufficient  energy  to  produce  good  plants. 
A  good  cutting  should  possess  a  certain  degree  of  firmness  also, 
for,  if  the  shoot  is  exceedingly  soft  and  full  of  sap,  it  will  not 
root  so  freely  as  one  which  is  more  mature. 

Cuttings  of  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs  should  be  taken  off 
after  the  fall  of  the  leaf  and  before  the  rise  of  the  sap  in  Spring. 
The  buds  on  the  underground  part  of  the  cutting  should  be 
rubbed  off.  In  making  a  cutting  of  a  soft-wooded  plant,  the 
leaf  should  be  cut  off  close  to  the  stem  on  the  part  which  is  under- 
ground when  the  cutting  is  set  or  planted. 

In  planting  a  cutting  of  a  deciduous  tree  or  shrub,  it  is  well 
to  plant  two-thirds  of  the  cutting  underground,  one-third  only 
being  allowed  to  remain  above  the  soil. 

When  making  cuttings,  a  smooth,  thin-bladed,  very  sharp 
knife  should  be  used,  so  that  the  cut  is  clean  and  smooth.  A 
blunt  or  rough-edged  knife  leaves  a  rough,  bruised  surface  which 
rarely  gives  good  results.  When  the  cuttings  have  been  selected 
and  a  sharp  knife  provided,  take  each  cutting  in  the  left  hand, 
remove  three  or  four  of  the  lower  leaves  close  to  the  stem  and 
cut  through  the  stem  in  a  slightly  slanting  direction  immediately 
below  a  bud  or  joint.  The  cutting  is  then  ready  to  be  planted, 
and  should,  as  soon  as  possible,  be  placed  in  the  soil  in  the 
position  where  it  is  to  root. 

PROPAGATION  BY  SUCKERS. 

Suckers  are  underground  shoots  and  should  be  taken  up  with 
all  their  roots  attached.  They  may  be  taken  up  at  any  time  when 
the  parent  plant  or  tree  may  be  safely  removed. 

[3i5] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


PROPAGATION  BY  LAYERING. 

A  Layer  is  a  branch  or  shoot,  part  of  which  is  introduced  into 
the  soil  and  strikes  root  while  fed  by  the  parent  plant.  The 
operation  is  effected  by  simply  bending  down  and  burying,  about 
an  inch  deep  in  the  soil,  the  branch  or  shoot  to  be  layered,  and 
preventing  it  from  springing  up,  by  placing  over  it  a  hooked 
peg  firmly  set  in  the  ground.  Before  pegging  it  down,  cut  a  slit 
in  a  slanting  direction  half  through  the  shoot  or  branch;  bend 
the  shoot  downward  and  place  it  about  an  inch  deep  in  the 
ground.  Fasten  it  securely  with  the  hooked  peg;  then  bend  the 
point  of  the  shoot  upward  until  the  slit  in  the  shoot  is  opened 
enough  to  allow  a  very  little  fine  soil  to  enter  the  slit.  Secure 
the  foot  of  the  shoot  by  tying  it  to  a  stake,  care  being  taken  not 
to  sever  the  layer  entirely  from  the  parent  plant.  Cover  the 
slit  portion  with  some  light  sandy  soil  and  give  a  good  watering. 
In  a  short  time,  the  layers  will  emit  roots.  When  the  layer  has 
rooted  freely,  sever  the  young  plant  from  the  parent  plant  and 
treat  as  recommended  for  young  trees  or  plants. 

OFFSETS. 

Offsets  are  short,  lateral  branches  or  shoots  which  root  where 
they  rest  on  the  soil  or  under  its  surface  and  thus  serve  for 
propagation. 

NURSERY  Rows. 

"Plant  in  nursery  rows"  is  a  term  frequently  used  in  the  fore- 
going chapters.  A  "nursery"  is  a  place  where  trees,  shrubs  or 
other  plants  are  raised  and  grown  for  transplanting.  The  young 
plants  are  generally  set  out  in  lines  or  rows,  hence  the  term  "plant 
in  nursery  rows." 


[316 


A  Few  Explanations  and  Directions 


DIVISION  OF  THE  BULBS,  ETC. 

"Division  of  the  Bulbs"  is  simply  dividing  clusters  into 
single  bulbs  and  planting  them  singly  instead  of  in  clusters.  The 
same  applies  to  "division  of  the  roots,"  "division  of  the 
crowns,"  etc. 

GARDEN  FRAMES. 

Plant  Frames  are  generally  made  of  redwood  boards  one  and 
one-half  inch  thick.  Their  dimensions  vary,  a  good  serviceable 
size  being  six  feet  long  by  three  feet  in  width  of  sash.  The  frame 
on  which  the  sash  rests  should  be  eighteen  inches  high  on  the 
back  and  eight  inches  high  in  front  so  that  the  sash,  when  in 
position,  will  have  enough  slope  to  shed  off  the  rain. 

A  Cool  or  Cold  Frame  is  one  which  has  no  artificial  heating. 

A  Hot  Frame  is  one  which  is  placed  on  a  heap  of  strawy 
stable-manure  or  other  fermenting  material  which  has  partially 
spent  its  heat,  its  temperature  having  fallen  to  about  eighty 
degrees  Fahrenheit. 

Hot-beds  are  very  useful,  especially  in  Spring,  for  encourag- 
ing rapid  growth  in  tender  plants  or  seedlings,  as  they  supply  a 
warm  moist  atmosphere  very  congenial  to  most  of  the  tender 
plants.  Cuttings  also  of  various  plants  emit  roots  and  grow 
much  faster  on  a  Hot-bed  than  when  placed  where  there  is  only 
fire  heat. 

To  make  up  a  Hot-bed,  secure  a  quantity  of  fresh  stable- 
manure  and  an  equal  quantity  of  tree-leaves,  which  have  been 
recently  collected ;  turn  them  over  and  mix  them  together  three  or 
four  times  every  second  day  for  eight  days.  Build  the  heap  the 
size  and  shape  of  the  frame  to  be  used,  and  allow  an  extra  width 
of  two  or  three  feet  all  around;  spread  the  mixture  evenly  in 
layers  of  not  more  than  six  inches  each,  treading  each  layer  firmly 
as  spread  until  the  bed  is  built  up  about  four  feet  high  or  thick. 


Gardening    in    Californi 


Over  the  surface  place  a  layer  of  ashes,  sand,  or  leaf-mold,  well 
decomposed,  spreading  it  evenly  about  three  inches  thick. 

The  Hot-bed  is  now  ready  for  the  frame,  and  after  the  rank 
steam  has  escaped,  and  the  temperature  of  the  air  in  the  frame 
has  fallen  to  eighty-five  degrees  Fahrenheit,  it  is  ready  for  receiv- 
ing plants,  cuttings  or  seeds.  It  is  well  to  allow  a  little  ventila- 
tion at  the  top  of  the  frame  night  and  day  for  a  few  days,  after 
new  beds  are  put  up. 

BOTTOM  HEAT. 

What  is  meant  by  Bottom-heat  is  a  bed  of  sand,  ashes  or 
other  light  plunging  material,  artificially  heated  either  by  hot 
water  or  steam  pipes,  by  tanks  filled  with  hot  water,  or  by  a  hot- 
bed made  of  fermenting  material.  In  this  sand  or  ash-bed  the 
pots  or  pans  or  boxes  are  "plunged,"  being  buried  to  the  rim. 
Bottom-heat  is  considered  indispensable  for  propagating  by  cut- 
tings or  seeds  in  early  Spring. 


Sand    Reclamation 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

SAND    RECLAMATION. 

SAND  Reclamation  is  a  matter  of  considerable  interest  to  those 
located  in  the  coast  counties  of  California.  As  the  Park  Com- 
mission of  San  Francisco  has,  in  the  process  of  construction 
of  Golden  Gate  Park,  overcome  the  difficulties  of  sand  reclama- 
tion, an  account  of  how  this  has  been  done  and  of  the  work 
preparatory  to  the  construction  of  the  Park,  following  the  recla- 
mation, is  probably  the  best  way  to  treat  the  subject  of  this 
chapter. 

The  sand  dunes  of  San  Francisco  are  situated  in  the  extreme 
westerly  portion  of  the  city,  and,  bordering  on  the  Pacific  Ocean, 
lie  entirely  open  and  exposed  to  the  storms  of  Winter  and  the 
Summer  winds  which  blow  nearly  every  afternoon  during  the 
latter  season  at  the  rate  of  twenty  or  more  miles  per  hour. 

This  sand  is  composed  of  small  particles  of  granite,  clean  and 
sharp,  without  any  vegetable  matter  and  having  no  clay  or  other 
soil  mixed  with  it  even  in  the  smallest  proportion.  On  account 
of  the  almost  constant  action  of  the  wind,  it  was  formerly  kept 
ever  on  the  move,  and  in  heavy  gales  drifted  like  snow,  at  times 
being  moved  in  a  single  day  to  a  depth  of  three  or  four  feet  and 
often  being  carried  a  distance  of  over  a  hundred  feet. 

How  to  tie  this  moving  mass  of  sand  and  to  hold  and  bind 
it  from  drifting  was  the  first  problem  to  be  solved  by  the  Park 
builders. 

The  first  experiment  tried  was  sowing  barley-seed  thickly 
over  the  entire  area,  harrowing  and  cross-harrowing  the  sand  so 
as  to  cover  the  seed.  In  due  course  the  seed  sprouted  and  grew 
to  a  height  of  several  inches,  covering  the  sand  and  holding  it 


Gardening    in    California 


fairly  well  for  a  few  months,  but,  on  account  of  barley  being  a 
shallow  rooter  and  an  annual,  dying  out  in  a  few  months,  it 
failed  to  hold  the  sands  together  after  July,  and  the  winds  of 
August  started  them  moving  again. 

The  next  attempt  was  made  with  the  Yellow  Lupin  (Lu- 
pinus  arboreus),  a  strong-growing,  perennial  shrub  which  is  a 
native  of  this  section.  The  seeds  were  collected  and  sown  broad- 
cast over  a  large  portion  of  the  area,  but  this  proved  successful 
only  in  the  better  protected  parts  of  the  district. 

The  Sea  Bent  Grass  (Amophylla  arenaria),  a  native  of  the 
maritime  countries  of  Europe  and  successfully  used  in  nearly  all 
the  coast  countries  of  that  continent,  was  next  experimented 
with.  This  plant  had  been  used  in  Denmark  perhaps  more  than 
in  any  other  country,  but  France,  Holland,  Italy,  Spain  and  also 
Great  Britain  had  reclaimed  many  thousands  of  acres  by  means 
of  this  wonderful  sand-binder. 

The  seeds  were  imported  from  France,  and,  first  of  all,  were 
sown  in  the  nursery.  When  two  years  old,  the  plants  were  taken 
up  and  planted  out  in  the  sand-dune  district  where  they  imme- 
diately took  root  and,  by  their  tremendous  root-growth,  held  the 
sands  together  and  prevented  them  from  moving. 

The  great  superiority  of  the  Sea  Bent  Grass  over  all  others 
recommended  as  sand-binders  is  that  it  is  almost  impossible  to 
bury  it  so  deeply  in  the  sand  that  its  crowns  cannot  push  through 
to  the  surface.  Even  if  buried  many  feet  deep,  it  works  its 
strong  stems  up  to  the  air  where  new  crowns  form  from  which 
are  sent  down  masses  of  strong,  fleshy  roots,  anchoring  the  grass 
so  firmly  that  the  fiercest  gales  have  but  little  effect  on  its  growth. 

This  grass"  is  also  a  wonderful  sand  collector.  Eleven  years 
ago,  when  the  Park  Commission  of  San  Francisco  constructed 
the  drive  facing  the  ocean  along  the  Great  Highway,  the  line 
of  the  proposed  roadbed,  was  in  many  places  below  high  water 
mark,  so  sand  was  scraped  from  below  high  water  mark,  in  order 
to  raise  the  roadway  to  the  proper  level. 

[320] 


a  n 


d    Reclamation 


When  this  was  done,  the  slopes  facing  the  ocean  were 
planted  with  the  Sea  Bent  Grass  which  soon  took  root  and  grew 
very  strongly,  the  saline  character  of  the  sand  evidently  being 
suited  to  its  requirements.  In  a  few  months  these  slopes  were 
one  mass  of  the  strong,  healthy  grass  with  its  thick,  creeping,  per- 
ennial roots  anchored  deeply  in  the  sand. 

The  mass  of  sand  is  thrown  up  from  the  ocean  and  left  on 
the  beach  by  thousands  of  tons,  and,  when  dried  by  the  sun,  is 


Eucalyptus  in  Sand  Near  Coast. 

blown  inland  by  the  winds,  being  carried  many  miles  unless 
obstructed. 

After  the  construction  of  the  driveway,  this  sand,  when 
moved  by  the  wind,  was  caught  by  the  grass  planted  on  the 
slopes  of  the  newly  built  road  and  held  there,  the  grass  pushing 
through  the  sand  as  it  was  piled  up,  until  to-day  there  is  an 
embankment  formed  by  this  drift-sand  which  is  from  ten  to 

[323] 


Gardening    in    California 


fifteen  feet  higher  than  the  roadway  and  from  a  hundred  to  three 
hundred  feet  in  width,  firmly  kept  in  position  by  this  wonderful 
grass. 

The  culture  of  the  grass  is  very  simple.  The  roots  are  dug 
or  pulled  up  by  hand,  and,  if  the  ground  to  be  operated  on  is 
reasonably  level,  the  surface  is  plowed  with  an  ordinary  plow. 
A  few  of  the  roots  are  dropped  about  two  feet  apart  into  every 
third  furrow  and  then  covered  by  the  plow,  until  the  entire  tract 
is  thus  planted.  Where  the  ground  is  abrupt  or  too  steep  for 
plowing,  holes  are  dug  a  foot  deep  and  about  two  feet  apart 
and  a  few  of  the  roots  dropped  into  each  hole,  the  sand  around 
the  roots  being  pressed  firm  by  the  foot.  The  best  season  for 
planting  is  February  or  March  although  the  grass  will  do  well 
if  planted  either  earlier  or  later  in  the  year,  provided  the  sand 
is  moist.  It  should,  if  possible  however,  be  set  out  during  rainy 
weather,  as  at  such  time  there  is  no  dry  sand  to  get  about  the 
roots;  besides,  the  rain  settles  the  sand  around  the  roots  far 
better  than  any  treading  can  possibly  do. 

The  sand-shifting  having  been  stopped  by  the  Bent  Grass 
and  no  further  trouble  being  apprehended  from  drifting,  the  next 
operation  in  the  work  of  park  building  to  be  undertaken  by  the 
Park  Commission  was  planting  the  ground  with  hardy  trees  and 
shrubs. 

A  great  many  different  species  of  trees  were  experimented 
with,  including  those  especially  suggested  by  European  for- 
esters, such  as  the  Norway  Maple,  Sycamore,  Maritime  Pine, 
English  Yew,  Austrian  Pine,  the  Elder  and  many  others  highly 
recommended.  In  exposed  situations  all  of  these,  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  Maritime  Pine,  failed  entirely. 

At  the  same  time  many  of  our  native  trees  and  shrubs,  in- 
cluding Monterey  Cypress,  Monterey  Pine,  Yellow  Pine  as  well 
as  Alders  and  Maples  were  set  out.  The  Cottonwood,  Scrub 
Oak,  and  other  varieties  of  Oaks  were  also  given  a  trial,  but, 

[324] 


and     Reclamation 


excepting  the  Monterey  Cypress  and  Monterey  Pine,  all  of  them, 
like  the  hardier  of  the  European  introductions,  did  fairly  well 
in  the  sheltered  hollows  only,  where  good  soil  and  plenty  of 
water  were  provided,  while  the  Monterey  Cypress  and  Monterey 
Pine  alone  stood  the  test  of  braving  the  storms  and  the  blasting 
influence  of  the  Summer  winds  in  the  more  exposed  places  and 
the  district  close  to  the  shore. 

Seeds  of  a  great  many  trees  were  also  introduced  from  Aus- 
tralia and  New  Zealand  as  well  as  from  South  America,  and, 
much  to  our  surprise,  some  of  these  gave  fine  results,  the 
Acacia  longifolia  and  the  Leptospermum  proving  two  of 
the  best  for  this  sort  of  work,  these  forming  a  close  thicket 
of  twiggy  stems  which  provided  perfect  shelter  for  other 
species  not  so  hardy.  Eucalyptus  of  many  species  were 
set  out  by  thousands,  but  only  the  common  Blue  and  the 
rugged  Red  Gum  were  a  success  in  the  poorer  sands,  and  none 
of  them  could  stand  the  climatic  conditions  unsheltered  within 
five  hundred  yards  of  the  salt  water.  The  above  mentioned  and 
a  few  other  hardy  varieties  grew  fairly  well  for  a  period  of  ten 
years,  but  after  that  time  they  seemed  to  become  bark-bound  and 
the  growth  became  stunted,  showing  that  the  trees,  after  they 
begin  to  form  heartwood,  require  a  richer  soil  than  that  com- 
posed of  pure  sand. 

It  therefore  became  necessary,  in  order  to  maintain  a  healthy 
vigorous  growth  in  the  young  forest  trees,  to  supply  them  with  a 
foreign  fertilizer.  This  was  done  by  utilizing  the  street  sweep- 
ings from  the  down-town  streets  which  were  brought  out  to  the 
Park  by  electric  cars,  and,  from  these  cars,  distributed  by  carts 
and  wagons  among  the  starving  trees.  The  change  produced  by 
this  means  was  amazing.  A  few  months  after  the  sweepings 
were  spread  over  the  surface,  the  trees  took  on  fresh  growth  and 
appeared  to  get  new  life  and  vigor,  the  leaves  becoming  darker 
and  more  richly  colored. 

1 325  ] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


In  addition  to  the  street  sweepings,  thousands  of  cubic  yards 
of  loam,  clay,  etc.,  have  been  carted  into  the  Park  each  year  for 
the  formation  and  growth  of  lawns  and  shrubbery  groups. 

When  the  sand  has  been  bound  and  prevented  from  drifting, 
a  forest  of  strong-growing  trees  established  (giving  the  required 
shelter),  and  a  good  soil  provided,  the  problem  of  park  building 
becomes  very  much  the  same  as  when  the  work  is  undertaken  on  a 
piece  of  land  possessing  naturally  good  soil  and  covered  with 
natural  trees. 

On  this  thousand  acre  tract,  which  originally  was  a  bleak 
waste  of  drifting,  barren  sand,  may  now  be  found  groves  of 
handsome  trees,  natives  of  many  countries  of  both  hemispheres, 
and  of  all  the  continents.  Here  one  may  see  the  Cedars  of 
Lebanon  and  of  Mount  Atlas  as  well  as  the  Deodars  of  the 
Himalayas,  the  Araucarias  of  Chile,  Brazil  and  Norfolk  Island, 
also  the  large-flowering,  handsomely  foliaged  Magnolia  of  our 
Southern  States,  the  Elms  of  New  England,  and  the  Sequoia, 
Cypresses,  Pines,  etc.,  of  our  own  State.  In  addition  may  be 
found  the  Yews  of  Old  England  and  the  fragrant,  feathery 
Acacias  of  Australia,  together  with  groves  of  Bamboos,  masses 
of  gaily-flowered  Camellias  and  Rhododendrons  and  stately 
Rubber  trees,  while  hundreds  of  other  varieties  of  trees  and 
shrubs  are  to  be  seen,  natives  of  many  climes,  all  of  them  ap- 
parently happy  and  healthy  in  their  new  surroundings. 


326] 


Albizzia  Julibrissin  in  Floiver. 


Calendar     of     Operations 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

CALENDAR    OF    OPERATIONS. 

IN  European  countries  and  the  Eastern  States  of  America 
many  works  on  gardening  have  been  written  in  calendar 
form,  such  a  calendar  being  very  convenient  for  reference  or 
as  a  guide  for  systematic  work  throughout  the  year. 

Of  course,  no  calendarial  directions  can  be,  at  the  same  time, 
suitable  to  all  the  different  localities  or  districts  of  our  great 
State.  It  may  be  pouring  rain  and  cold  weather  in  Humboldt 
county  and  on  the  same  day  very  dry  and  quite  warm  in  the 
counties  south  of  Tehachipi;  we  have  cold  frosty  nights  in 
Shasta  county  when  the  oranges  are  ripening  in  the  county 
adjoining.  While  it  would  be  impossible  to  provide  for  every 
contingency,  yet,  along  the  coast  and  in  the  great  valleys,  the 
difference  in  temperature  is  not  so  wide  but  that  a  general  system 
of  operation  might  apply  to  all.  The  seasons  themselves,  how- 
ever, vary  so  much  that  many  circumstances  must  be  taken  into 
consideration,  such  as  the  state  of  the  weather,  the  condition  of 
the  soil,  etc.  In  some  years,  the  Winter  rains  fall  much  earlier 
than  in  others;  one  season  may  have  rainfall  enough  to  allow 
plowing  and  spading  to  be  commenced  early  in  September,  while, 
in  other  years,  the  ground  may  remain  dry  and  hard  until  late  in 
November. 

Keeping  all  this  in  view,  there  are  submitted  in  this  chapter, 
in  the  form  of  a  Gardening  Calendar,  a  series  of  hints  and  sug- 
gestions based  on  the  experience  of  the  writer,  which,  it  is  be- 
lieved, will  be  found  useful  and  profitable  to  growers  in  Cali- 
fornia, it  being  left  to  the  good  judgment  of  such  to  make  the 
necessary  modifications  when  a  season  has  been  abnormal  or  if 
their  locations  should  happen  to  be  where  the  temperature  goes 
to  an  extreme  in  any  way. 

[329] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


JANUARY. 

If  it  has  not  already  been  done,  have  all  the  necessary  prun- 
ing of  fruit  trees  (including  apples,  pears,  apricots,  peaches, 
plums,  etc.)  attended  to  at  once;  also  prune  roses  and  other 
deciduous  trees,  climbers  and  shrubs,  removing  all  decayed  or 
weak  growth.  If  any  show  signs  of  ill  health,  take  up  the  plants 
and  examine  their  roots;  root-prune  all  unhealthy  stock  and 
replant  in  fresh,  well-cultivated,  deep,  rich  soil.  After  pruning, 
clear  away  all  the  clippings  and  any  weeds  which  may  be  found 
either  in  shrub-groups,  flower-beds  or  walks.  Weeds  should 
never  be  allowed  to  get  foothold  in  any  well-kept  garden. 

When  the  hedges  have  all  been  clipped  and  the  place  has 
been  given  a  general  clean-up,  a  clear,  dry  day  should  be  selected 
when  the  soil  is  in  good  condition,  neither  too  dry  nor  yet  so 
wet  that  it  will  stick  to  the  spade;  after  giving  the  soil  a  good 
coat  of  at  least  three  inches  of  old,  well-rotted  manure,  spade 
the  surface  of  all  shrubbery-groups  and  flower-beds  to  the  depth 
of  at  least  one  foot  (except  where  the  operation  would  interfere 
too  much  with  the  roots  of  the  plants),  leaving  the  soil  in  as 
rough  and  lumpy  a  condition  as  possible  so  as  to  allow  the  atmos- 
phere to  penetrate  the  soil. 

Plant  out  all  kinds  of  fruit  trees  and  also  all  kinds  of  decidu- 
ous trees  and  shrubs,  selecting  a  day  when  the  air  is  soft  and  the 
soil  in  good  condition,  avoiding  days  when  the  wind  blows  cold 
and  dry,  or  the  soil  is  wet  and  soggy. 

In  laying  out  new  rose-beds,  first  trench  the  soil  to  the  depth 
of  two  feet  and  mix  the  soil  freely  with,  at  least,  six  inches  of 
half-decomposed  horse-manure.  The  soil  should  be  of  a  good 
strong  nature,  not  too  sandy  but  not  a  heavy  clay;  a  good  mel- 
low loam  of  any  color,  if  well-enriched,  suits  the  rose,  a  fairly 
well-sheltered  situation  being  selected. 

January  is  a  good  month  for  laying  out  new  ground,  making 
walks,  etc. 

[330] 


Calendar     of     Operations 


In  the  Greenhouse  or  glasshouse  the  principal  work  is  keep- 
ing everything  as  bright  and  fresh  as  possible,  allowing  no  dead 
or  dying  leaves  or  dirt  of  any  kind  to  accumulate  on  any  bench 
or  pot  or  even  under  the  plant-benches  or  stages.  It  is  advisable 
to  syringe  very  little  during  this  month,  and  only  on  bright, 
warm  days  and  in  the  early  morning.  It  will  suffice  to  dampen 
the  floors  and  plant-stages  (or  tables)  once  or  twice  a  day; 
especially  be  careful  not  to  syringe  plants  which  are  in  bloom, 
else  the  display  of  flowers  will  be  short. 

This  being  the  coldest  month  of  the  year,  and  flowers  scarce 
in  the  open,  a  good  display  of  color  should  be  aimed  at,  Roman 
Hyacinths,  Begonias,  Cinerarias,  Euphorbias,  Rondeletias,  Pri- 
mulas, Poinsettias,  etc.,  being  utilized.  We  should  keep  the 
greenhouse  gay  and  cheerful  during  the  entire  month. 

Keep  the  temperature  between  fifty-five  and  sixty-five  de- 
grees Fahrenheit  at  night,  allowing  a  rise  of  ten  degrees  in  the 
daytime. 

Give  larger  pots  to  pot-bound  palms  or  other  evergreen,  orna- 
mental-leaved plants  which  have  healthy  roots.  Examine  each 
individual  plant,  and,  if  the  roots  are  not  in  a  healthy  condition, 
cut  back  the  diseased  roots  to  healthy  tissue  and  repot  the  plant 
in  a  pot  of  the  same  size  or  even  in  a  smaller  one,  using  good, 
fresh  soil  composed  of  two  thirds  turfy-loam  and  one-third  leaf- 
mold  with  enough  sand  to  keep  the  whole  open  and  free, 
together  with  a  sprinkling  of  bone-meal  or  crushed  bones. 

Sow  seeds  of  Lobelias,  Pyrethrums,  Celosias,  Wigandias,  and 
other  bedding  foliage-plants,  placing  them  in  sandy  leaf-mold 
and  giving  them  partial  shade  until  germination. 


333 


Gardening    in    California 


FEBRUARY. 

The  old  adage  "as  the  day  lengthens  the  cold  strengthens" 
is  just  as  true  in  California  as  it  is  in  the  East,  and  should  be 
carefully  remembered  by  all  who  grow,  in  the*  flower-garden, 
plants  which  are  at  all  tender.  Cinerarias,  for  instance,  may  be 
carried  over  a  few  cold  nights  by  being  covered  with  light  cot- 
ton sheeting  and  will  thus  give  grand  results  in  the  early  Spring, 
whereas,  if  not  protected  during  cold  nights,  they  will  be  a 
failure.  The  old  favorite  Spring-flowering  Doronicum  should 
now  receive  special  attention  and  will  be  found  useful  in  beds 
and  borders.  Plants  which  have  been  transplanted  in  the  Fall 
or  have  been  left  undisturbed  from  the  previous  season  will  give 
good  results  in  the  Spring,  while  those  whose  roots  are  divided 
at  this  season,  will  flower  late  in  the  Summer  thus  giving  a  longer 
season  of  flower. 

Ivies  growing  on  walls  should  be  trimmed  in,  fairly  close 
to  the  wall  or  fence,  as  they  quickly  become  covered  with  new 
leaves  at  this  season.  Rough  walls  have  an  attractive  look  if 
covered  with  Ivy,  Virginia  Creeper  or  Boston  Ivy.  Ivy  is  also 
useful  for  planting  under  trees  where  grass  and  other  plants  die 
out,  or  for  rambling  over  rocks,  tree  stumps  or  rooteries. 

In  the  flower-borders,  the  Iris  reticulata  and  Iris  major  are, 
during  this  month,  developing  their  deliciously  fragrant  flowers 
and  deserve  a  little  extra  attention  in  the  way  of  the  ground 
being  kept  clear  of  weeds,  of  being  mulched  with  well-decom- 
posed manure,  and,  should  the  season  be  inclined  to  be  dry,  of 
being  given  a  copious  supply  of  water  at  the  roots.  The  same 
instructions  should  be  followed  in  the  treatment  of  Hyacinths, 
Tulips,  Anemones,  Ranunculus,  Daffodils  and  other  Spring- 
flowering  bulbs. 

Seeds  of  numerous  species  of  annuals  will  have  to  be  sown 
during  the  next  few  weeks.  The  hardy  kinds  may  be  sown  in 
the  open  ground  in  sunny,  sheltered  situations,  in  well-prepared 

[334] 


Calendar     of     Operations 


soil  when  the  weather  is  fine  and  the  soil  is  in  a  fairly  dry  con- 
dition. Salpiglossis,  Phlox  Drummondii,  and  Zinnia,  also 
Asters,  Petunias,  etc.,  should  be  sown,  about  this  date,  on  a  mild 
hotbed  which  has  an  even  covering  of  finely-sifted  soil  two  inches 
deep,  thoroughly  moistened  before  the  seed  is  planted.  The 
seeds  should  be  thinly  sown  in  rows  and  covered  with  finely- 
sifted  soil  to  the  depth  of  one-quarter  of  an  inch ;  shade  the  soil 
until  germination  has  taken  place,  care  being  taken  that  the  young 
seedlings  are  not  allowed  to  flag  or  wilt  or  even  to  become  dry. 
When  the  seedlings  are  large  enough  to  be  pricked  off,  they 
should  be  planted,  three  inches  apart,  in  moderately  rich  soil  in 
boxes  (four  inches  deep)  or  singly  in  two  and  one-half  inch  pots. 

Insert  cuttings  of  Alternantheras,  Irisines,  Heliotropes, 
Petunias,  etc.,  in  pots  or  boxes  filled  with  a  mixture  of  one-half 
finely-sifted  leaf-mold,  one-quarter  loam  and  one-quarter  clean 
white  sand,  with  a  half-inch  layer  of  sand  on  the  surface;  give 
water  enough  to  settle  the  sand  about  the  cuttings  and  plunge 
in  a  bottom  heat  of  about  seventy-five  degrees  Fahrenheit  in 
greenhouse  or  hot  frame,  keeping  them  in  a  close  atmosphere 
and  shaded  from  sunshine  for  about  ten  days  and  then  gradually 
exposing  them  to  light  and  air.  Seedling  Lobelias  and  Pyre- 
thrums,  sown  last  month,  should  now  be  pricked  out  about  two 
inches  apart  in  light  rich  soil  in  pans  or  boxes.  Place  them  in  a 
close,  warm  atmosphere  shading  them  until  they  re-root  in  their 
new  soil  when  they  may  be  gradually  inured  to  air  and  light. 

Dahlias.  If  an  increase  of  the  number  of  plants  is  desired, 
old  roots  should  now  be  put  upon  a  bed  having  a  mild  bottom- 
heat,  the  tubers  being  covered  up  to  the  collar  with  light  leaf- 
mold  or  other  light  sandy  soil.  Syringe  them  twice  daily,  and, 
as  soon  as  the  young  shoots  have  made  two  or  three  joints  in 
length,  slip  them  off  and  place  them  singly  in  small  pots  filled 
with  sand  and  leaf-mold,  half  and  half,  well-mixed  together; 
then  plunge  them  in  a  close,  warm  frame  or  greenhouse  and, 
when  they  are  rooted,  gradually  expose  them  to  air  and  light. 

[335] 


Gardening    in    California 


Hollyhock  seeds  should  be  sown  early  in  the  month  in  order 
to  get  good  flowering  plants  the  first  season.  East  Lothian 
Stocks,  Lobelia  cardinalis,  Verbenas,  Celosias  and  also  Pent- 
stemons  and  Antirrhinums  should  likewise  be  sown  early  in 
this  month.  Begonia  tubers,  lifted  in  the  Fall,  should  now  be 
placed  in  boxes,  on  a  thin  layer  of  light  soil  and  half-covered 
with  the  same  kind  of  soil.  Start  them  growing  under  cool  treat- 
ment and  keep  them  in  a  cool  frame  until  planting-out  time. 
The  stock  of  plants  may  be  increased  by  dividing  tubers  which 
show  many  buds.  The  cut  surfaces  of  these  divisions  should  be 
sprinkled  with  sulphur-dust  and  allowed  to  dry  before  potting. 
The  tuberous  Begonia  should  be  much  more  generally  seen  in  our 
gardens  than  it  is,  as  it  is  very  hardy, 'is  easily  grown,  and  remains 
longer  in  bloom  than  most  of  our  Summer-flowering  plants,  com- 
mencing to  flower  early  in  June  and  giving  a  profusion  of  gor- 
geously-colored blossoms  until  late  in  November.  It  delights  in 
a  light  rich  soil,  an  eastern  exposure,  a  sheltered,  partially-shaded 
situation  and  abundance  of  water.  Anyone  giving  the  tuberous 
Begonia  these  simple  conditions  will  be  generously  rewarded  for 
the  little  trouble  and  expense  devoted  to  this  beautiful  exotic. 

Where  flowers  of  Sweet-peas  are  desired  early,  seeds  should  be 
sown,  in  the  first  week  of  this  month  (in  well-prepared,  rich  gar- 
den soil)  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  deep,  either  in  rows  or 
in  small  circles.  As  soon  as  the  young  plants  are  about  four 
inches  high  they  should  be  given  a  trellis  or  other  light  support  to 
climb  over. 

Sow  also  in  the  open  ground,  as  early  in  the  month  as  the 
soil  is  in  the  proper  condition,  that  is  when  the  soil  is  moist  but 
not  too  wet  or  sticky,  Eschscholtzias,  Lupins,  Poppies,  Corn- 
flower, Nemophylas,  and  other  hardy  wildflowers  and  annuals. 


336 


Calendar     of     Operations 


GREENHOUSE. 

If  the  repotting  of  the  general  collection  of  plants  rec- 
ommended last  month  is  not  finished,  that  work  should 
be  attended  to  as  early  this  month  as  possible.  As  the  days 
lengthen,  more  ventilation  should  be  given,  the  ventilators  being 
closed  early  in  the  afternoon  and  the  temperature  allowed  to 
reach  eighty-five  or  ninety  degrees  Fahrenheit  by  sunheat.  Should 
greenfly,  scale  or  other  insects  have  appeared,  boil  one  pound  of 
whale-oil  soap  in  one  gallon  of  rain  water  (or  larger  quantities 
in  the  same  proportion)  and  use  one-half  pint  of  this  mixture  in 
four  gallons  of  rain  water  for  syringing  twice  weekly;  if  mealy- 
bug is  troublesome,  add  eight  ounces  of  petroleum.  When  it  is 
necessary  to  use  the  petroleum  mixture,  it  should  be  done  about 
five  or  six  o'clock  in  the  evening  on  dull  days  only.  By  using 
this  petroleum  emulsion  occasionally,  much  labor  will  be  saved 
in  checking  the  spread  of  mealy-bug  and  the  leaves  will  become 
glossy. 

Ferns  growing  freely  should  be  afforded  abundance  of  mois- 
ture at  the  roots,  and  a  moist  atmosphere  must  be  maintained  at 
all  times,  this  being,  for  successful  fern  culture,  an  absolute  neces- 
sity. Ligodium  scandens,  a  climbing  fern  suitable  for  covering 
walls,  trellises,  etc.,  requires  frequent  attention  at  this  season. 
In  order  to  display  the  plant  effectively,  each  frond  should  be 
secured  to  a  fine  wire;  the  plants  should  be  given  abundance  of 
water  at  the  roots  and  syringed  frequently.  Where  it  is  desir- 
able to  increase  the  number  of  plants,  in  the  fern  family,  divide 
the  old  plants  into  sections,  and  pot  them  in  suitable  sizes,  care 
being  taken  that  the  plants  are  put  into  the  smallest  sizes  of  pots 
in  which  they  may  be  comfortably  placed,  in  soil  composed  of 
one-third  mellow  loam,  one- third  leaf-mold  and  one-third  peat 
with  enough  sand  to  keep  the  whole  open  for  free  passage  of 
water.  Place  them  in  a  shaded  portion  of  the  greenhouse,  syring- 
ing morning  and  evening,  keeping  the  temperature  at  sixty 
degrees  Fahrenheit  at  night,  allowing  it  to  rise  to  seventy-five 

[339] 


Gardening    in    California 


degrees    Fahrenheit    by    day,    and    carefully    preventing    cold 
draughts  of  air  from  passing  through  the  house. 

Hanging  baskets  should  now  receive  a  thorough  over-hauling. 
If  a  basket  requires  replanting,  line  it  first  with  moss  and  place 
about  one  inch  of  soil  over  this;  place  the  plants  in  the  basket 
and  fill  the  basket  with  lumpy,  fibrous  loam  and  a  little  peat. 
Asparagus  Springerii  and  Asparagus  plumosa  are  excellent  plants 
for  growing  in  baskets  as  are  also  the  Davalia  ferns,  the  Boston 
fern  and  many  of  the  Adiantums.  Many  of  the  small-flowering 
tuberous  Begonias  also  make  excellent  subjects,  especially  where 
hung  above  the  eye  when  their  lovely  flowers  show  to  good 
advantage. 

Propagate  by  cuttings,  Coleus,  Pilea  muscosa,  Tradescantias, 
Ficus,  and  Panicum;  also  propagate  Begonia  Rex  from  leaves 
and  Isolepis  by  division. 

Caladiums  and  Alocacias,  having  rested  during  the  Winter, 
may  now  be  repotted.  Shake  the  old  soil  from  the  tubers  and  pot 
them  in  small  pots,  allowing  not  more  than  a  half -inch  of  soil 
between  the  tubers  and  the  side  of  the  pot.  They  should  be 
placed  in  soil  consisting  of  equal  parts  of  fibrous  loam,  leaf-soil 
and  peat,  with  enough  silver-sand  to  keep  the  whole  sweet  and 
open.  After  potting,  place  them  in  a  mild  bottom  heat  of  about 
seventy  degrees  Fahrenheit  and  a  top  temperature  of  about  sixty 
degrees  Fahrenheit  at  night,  allowing  a  rise  of  about  ten  degrees 
in  the  daytime;  water  sparingly  until  growth  has  begun.  When 
the  plants  have  filled  the  pots  with  roots,  change  them  to  larger 
pots,  taking  care  that  an  inch  of  fresh  soil  surrounds  the  ball  of 
earth  around  the  plants;  this  will  necessitate  a  pot  two  sizes  or 
inches  wider  than  the  one  the  plant  formerly  occupied.  In  repot- 
ting, use  the  same  soil  as  recommended  for  the  first  potting,  but, 
in  addition,  'mix  a  little  very  old  well-rotted  half-dry  cow  or 
horse-manure  with  it  as  the  Caladiums,  like  most  other  large- 
leaved,  rapid-growing  plants,  love  good  rich  feeding  and  plenty 
of  water  during  the  growing  season. 

[340] 


Calendar     of     Operations 


Gloxinias,  Achimenes,  and  Tsedies  may  also  be  started  and 
treated  in  much  the  same  way  recommended  for  the  Caladiums; 
see  that  the  pots  are  well  supplied  with  drainage  material  by 
filling  the  pots  at  least  one-quarter  of  their  depth  with  crocks  or 
broken  bricks,  placing  one  flat  piece  over  the  hole  in  the  bottom 
of  the  pot  and,  above  that,  small  pieces  not  over  half  an  inch 
thick;  cover  this  with  moss  to  keep  the  soil  from  washing  into 
the  drainage  material. 

Rearrange  the  plants  from  time  to  time  as  this  will  tend  to 
keep  them  in  better  condition  and  more  shapely  in  appearance; 
wash  the  pots,  sponge  the  leaves,  etc.;  also  wash  the  woodwork 
and  give  a  general  cleanup  to  the  house ;  in  short,  neatness  should 
be  in  evidence  in  the  greenhouse. 

MARCH. 

If  wet  weather  or  any  other  cause  has  rendered  it  impossible 
to  carry  out  the  directions  given  for  last  month,  these  should 
now  be  proceeded  with.  This  is  the  best  month  for  planting 
Eucalyptus,  Acacias  and  other  semi-tender  trees  and  shrubs,  as 
directed  under  their  respective  headings.  All  vacant  ground 
should  be  manured  and  spaded  where  required;  weeds  should  be 
destroyed  wherever  found,  and  the  ground  stirred  lightly  with 
the  hoe  or  rake,  in  order  to  destroy  nests  of  slugs  and  harmful 
insects.  Ground  which  was  roughly  spaded  last  month  should 
now  be  hoed  and  raked  when  moderately  dry.  The  borders  of 
the  shrubbery  and  other  ground,  where  flowers  are  to  be  planted 
or  where  seeds  are  to  be  sown,  should  be  worked  over,  levelled, 
and  raked  preparatory  to  planting  and  seeding. 

If  they  have  not  been  already  sown,  plant  seeds  of  Sweet 
Peas,  Nemophyllas  and  the  other  annuals  recommended  last 
month,  sowing  them  in  circular  patches  in  small  groups,  or  in 
beds  or  rows  where  plenty  of  space  is  available.  Plant  out 
young  plants  of  Carnations,  Phloxes,  Violets,  Pentstemons, 

[34i] 


Gardening    in    California 


i 

Campanulas,  Columbines,  Japanese  Anemones  and  other  hardy, 
perennial  flowering-plants  in  well-prepared,  fairly-rich  soil. 
Plant  out  also  Gladiolas  and  other  hardy  bulbous  roots  (includ- 
ing Begonias  and  Caladium  esculentum),  mulching  among  the 
plants  with  a  light  sprinkling  of  well-rotted  manure. 

This  month  is  the  most  favorable  for  giving  the  Rockery  a 
little  overhauling  in  the  way  of  arranging  such  plants  as  Sedums 
and  Mesembryanthemums.  The  especially  strong-growing  vari- 
eties will  generally  be  found  to  have  outgrown  the  space  allowed 
them  and  should  be  dug  out  and  replaced  by  small  plants  or 
cuttings,  cuttings  generally  being  preferred  as  it  takes  only  a 
few  weeks  for  them  to  root  and  to  begin  to  bloom  again.  Cras- 
sulas,  Cactus,  Echeverias,  Aloes,  Auriculas,  etc.,  should  be  ex- 
amined, and,  where  necessary,  should  receive  a  top  dressing  of  rich 
light  soil  to  encourage  fresh  growth;  those  having  tall  flower- 
stems  should  be  neatly  staked-  in  order  to  support  their  heavy 
flower-heads  in  stormy  weather.  Arabis,  Saxifragia,  and  other 
Spring-flowering  rock-plants  should  have  the  ground  about  them 
examined  and  the  surface  top-dressed,  and,  as  soon  as  the  bloom- 
ing season  is  over,  their  flower-stems  cut  off,  while,  when  neces- 
sary, the  plants  should  be  severely  cut  back  to  encourage  fresh, 
vigorous  flowering-growth  for  the  following  season. 

When  space  is  available,  sow  varieties  of  wildflowers.  In 
any  out  of  the  way  spot  not  used  for  any  special  purpose,  have 
the  ground  spaded  and  sown  with  seeds  of  the  different  strong- 
growing  species  such  as  Lupinus  bicolor,  Collinsia  bicolor, 
Eschscholtzia,  etc.,  also  Shirley  and  Iceland  Poppies,  Fox-Gloves, 
the  common  sweet  Mignonette,  and  Nasturtium  both  climbing 
and  dwarf,  not  forgetting  the  free-spreading  sweet  Allysum  as 
it  will  continue  flowering  late  in  the  Autumn  when  most  of  the 
others  are  past. 


342] 


Laivn  and  Driveway. 


Calendar     of     Operation 


GREENHOUSE    AND    FRAMES. 

Alternanthera,  Irisine  and  all  bedding  plants  should 
receive  their  final  transplanting  preparatory  to  hardening 
off.  The  small-growing  dwarf  species,  such  as  Alternan- 
thera, are  better  grown  in  boxes  (the  dimensions  of  which 
should  be  about  fifteen  inches  in  width,  twenty-two  inches 
in  length  and  four  inches  in  depth)  and  should  be  planted  in 
light  rich  soil  about  two  inches  apart.  Boxes  of  this  size  are  also 
used  in  growing  Asters,  Stocks,  Verbenas,  Petunias,  and  most 
of  the  low-growing  annuals.  Dahlias,  Hollyhocks,  and  all 
strong,  tall-growing,  flowering  and  ornamental  plants  do  better 
if  grown  singly  in  pots. 

Sow,  early  in  the  month,  seeds  of  Stocks,  Asters,  Calliopsis, 
Dianthus,  Cosmos,  Ipomeas,  Marigolds,  Phlox  Drummondii, 
etc.,  and,  for  succession,  Lobelias,  Zinnias,  and  Gailardias. 

Continue  the  work  recommended  for  last  month  in  the  green- 
house, keeping  up  a  warm,  moist  atmosphere  to  encourage  vigor- 
ous growth.  As  the  flowering-plants,  such  as  Azaleas,  go  out  of 
bloom,  pick  off  all  the  seed-pods  and  place  the  plants  in  a  warm, 
moist  atmosphere  to  induce  them  to  make  fresh  growth,  shading 
them  during  hot  sunshine.  Plants  in  need  of  repotting  should 
be  attended  to  as  soon  as  they  are  fairly  started  into  growth,  using 
good  fibrous  peat,  leaf-mold,  a  little  broken  charcoal  and  coarse 
silver-sand  for  the  potting.  Work  the  soil  firmly  and  evenly 
round  the  old  ball  with  a  thin  rammer,  making  it  as  firm  as  that  of 
the  old  ball.  Syringe  the  plants  freely  with  soft  water  while  they 
are  making  their  growth;  as  growth  progresses  give  them  more 
air,  and,  when  completed,  place  them  in  the  open  air  in  a  cool 
shaded  situation  (avoiding  cold  draughts),  and  plunge  the  pots 
in  ashes  to  about  half  their  depth. 

Caladium  plants  which  were  started  as  advised  a  few  weeks 
ago  will  now  be  ready  for  repotting  in  pots  two  sizes  larger  than 
those  they  occupy.  The  soil  should  be  composed  of  one-third 

[345] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


loam,  one-third  leaf-mold  and  one-third  silver-sand  with  a 
sprinkling  of  pulverized  cow-manure  mixed  with  the  soil.  To 
encourage  vigorous  root  action,  warm  humid  air  should  be  pro- 
vided; close  the  ventilators  early  in  the  afternoon  and  conserve 
the  sun-heat;  syringe  the  plants  freely  with  soft  tepid  water  and 
shade  them  during  the  bright  sunshine. 

Repot  Coleus,  Begonias,  etc.,  as  their  pots  become  filled  with 
roots. 

The  majority  of  greenhouse  plants  may  be  propagated  during 
this  month.  As  a  general  rule,  those  cuttings  root  most  readily 
which  are  taken  from  plants  that  have  formed  half-ripe  wood. 
In  the  case  of  Begonias  or  other  soft-wooded  plants,  cuttings  may 
be  taken  from  any  portion  of  the  young  shoots,  provided  a  clean 
cut  is  made  immediately  below  a  joint  and  with  a  sharp  knife. 

APRIL. 

Nymphsea,  Lotus  or  other  water  plants  should  be  planted  or 
replanted  early  in  April  before  the  young  leaves  have  made  much 
growth. 

If  the  water  cannot  be  run  off  the  pond,  it  is  a  good  plan  to 
fill,  with  loam  and  old  manure  in  equal  proportions,  the  required 
number  of  wicker-baskets  (boxes  made  of  laths  will  answer  for 
the  same  purpose),  plant  in  each  basket  a  few  good  crowns,  cover- 
ing the  surface  with  an  inch  of  coarse  sand  or  fine  gravel,  and 
then  sink  them  in  the  desired  positions  in  the  water.  For  strong- 
growing  varieties,  such  as  the  Nymphsea  Marliacca,  Nymphsea 
albida,  Nymphsea  Cromatella,  Nymphsea  tuberosa  and  also  the 
Lotus  family,  larger  bodies  of  soil  are  required  in  order  to  have 
them  at  their  best. 

In  the  case  of  ponds  where  the  water  can  be  run  off,  mounds 
of  soil,  held  together  by  being  surrounded  with  big  round  stones, 
should  be  made,  the  plants  set  out  and  the  pond  quickly  filled. 

It  should  be  remembered  that  a  large  number  of  crowns  on  a 
plant  is  not  conducive  to  free-flowering. 

[346] 


Calendar      of     Operation 


In  addition  to  the  Lilies  themselves,  attention  should  be  given 
to  the  many  beautiful  plants  which  thrive  in  shallow  water  or  on 
the  banks  bordering  a  pond,  either  partially  submerged  or 
in  the  adjacent  moist  soil.  For  partially  submerged  spots 
or  shallow  water  the  plume-like  Papyrus  antiquorum  and 
the  Cyperius  or  Umbrella  plant,  the  Calla  lily  and  all  of  the 
Rushes  and  Water-grasses  are  recommended,  while  the  Ponto- 
deria  cordata,  the  Saggitarias  and  the  Aponogetons  all  add  to  the 
attractiveness  of  the  pond  or  water-garden.  Where  occasional 
flowering  takes  place,  many  handsome  plants  may  be  grown,  any 
of  which  can  be  planted  now.  These  should  include  the  gorgeous 
Japanese  Iris,  the  Spirea  Aruncus,  many  of  the  Bamboos, 
Funkias,  etc. 

A  number  of  the  bedding  plants  such  as  Fuchsias,  Geraniums, 
the  earlier  Lobelias,  Pyrethrums,  etc.,  should  now  be  placed  out 
of  doors  in  sheltered  situations,  and  all  other  bedding  plants,  as 
soon  as  they  are  the  required  size,  should  be  gradually  hardened 
off,  care  being  taken  not  to  expose  them  suddenly  from  hot  green- 
house or  hot  frame  to  the  open  air.  It  is  advisable  to  keep  them 
under  glass  for  a  week  or  ten  days  with  the  ventilators  open  both 
by  day  and  by  night,  and,  for  the  first  few  days  after  being  placed 
out  of  doors,  they  should  be  shaded  during  bright  sunshine  by 
being  covered  with  some  light  cheese-cloth  or  similar  light 
shading. 

If  not  already  done,  Cannas  and  Phloxes  should  have  their 
roots  taken  up  and  the  crowns  divided  into  bunches  (two  or 
three  stems  to  each  bunch)  and  planted  at  once  in  well-enriched, 
loamy  soil;  plant  the  Cannas  about  three  feet  apart  and  the 
Phloxes  about  eighteen  inches  apart. 

If  the  stock  of  Dahlias  is  short,  cuttings  may  still  be  taken. 
Pot  the  cuttings  singly  in  two-inch  pots  and  plunge  them  into  a 
little  bottom  heat  where  they  will  soon  take  root.  These  late 
stock  cuttings  make  excellent  late-flowering  effects,  continuing 
well  into  November.  Shrubs  which  have  been  transplanted 

[347] 


Gardening    in    California 


during  the  last  few  months  should  be  closely  examined,  and,  if  the 
weather  be  inclined  to  the  dry  side,  given  a  good  soaking  of  water 
at  the  roots;  then  they  should  be  well  mulched  with  old  manure. 
Spray  them  with  water  late  in  the  afternoon  of  dry  days  to 
encourage  the  swelling  of  buds  and  the  making  of  fresh  growth. 
Roses  will  now  be  making  good  growth,  and  the  buds  should 
be  thinned  according  to  the  strength  of  the  variety.  Keep  the  soil 
open  by  stirring  it  with  the  hoe,  especially  after  rain  or  after 
watering  artificially,  as  this  prevents  undue  evaporation.  Should 
the  green  fly  attack  the  leaves,  spray  them  with  the  mixture  of 
whale-oil  soap  and  tobacco-juice  in  the  evening,  and  hose  off  the 
plants  the  following  morning  with  clear  water.  Should  one  appli- 
cation not  be  effective,  spray  again  the  following  evening,  using 
the  hose  again  next  morning  to  wash  off  the  soap.  Even  a  third 
similar  application  may  sometimes  be  necessary.  Some  use 
quassia-extract  in  place  of  the  whale-oil  soap  with  the  tobacco, 
and  apply  it  in  similar  way.  One  of  the  worst  enemies  of  the 
Rose  is  the  Rose-leaf  Roller,  for  which  the  sprayer  should  also 
be  used.  In  addition  to  this,  examine  the  plants  daily  and  squeeze 
the  grubs  between  the  finger  and  thumb.  Should  mildew  appear, 
apply  flowers  of  sulphur.  The  best  time  to  do  this  is  in  the  early 
morning  while  the  dew  is  on  the  leaves. 

GREENHOUSE. 

Indian  Azaleas  which  have  finished  blooming,  should, 
as  recommended  last  month,  have  their  seed-pods  removed 
and,  if  necessary,  be  given  larger  pots.  This  is  a  good  time  to  put 
in  cuttings  of  the  Autumn  favorite  Chrysanthemums.  Select 
strong,  short-jointed,  young  wood.  Insert  the  cuttings  in  sandy 
leaf-mold  and  place  them  in  a  cold  frame,  shading  them  for  a 
few  days  during  sunshine  and  giving  them  a  slight  sprinkling  with 
the  watering-pot  in  the  evening  before  closing  the  sashes.  As 
soon  as  the  young  plants  are  well  rooted,  pot  them  singly  in 

t348] 


Calendar     of     Operation 


two-inch  pots  using  soil  composed  of  three  parts  turfy-loam, 
one  part  sandy  leaf-mold  and  one  part  old,  well-decomposed 
horse-manure,  with  a  little  bone-meal.  Be  careful  that  all  the 
ingredients  are  well-mixed  together  and  see  that  proper  drainage 
is  afforded.  Pot  the  plants  firmly  and  return  the  plants  to  the 
cold  frame;  keep  them  close  for  a  few  days  and  syringe  them 
lightly  overhead  at  least  once  a  day.  Should  the  green  fly 
appear,  dip  the  heads  of  the  plants  in  softsoap  and  water. 

Begonia  Gloire  de  Lorraine  and  other  fibrous-rooted  Begonias 
will  now  require  attention.  Having  washed  clean  a  sufficient 
number  of  thumb-pots  and  attended  to  the  drainage,  fill  each 
pot  loosely  with  sandy  leaf -soil  to  the  rim;  make  a  hole  in  the 
middle,  insert  a  cutting  and  fill  the  hole  with  silver-sand,  making 
the  soil  firm  about  the  cutting;  plunge  them  in  a  place  where 
they  will  get  a  little  bottom  heat,  say  about  eighty  degrees 
Fahrenheit,  standing  them  closely  together.  Each  cutting  being 
struck  singly  in  a  pot,  it  is  not  necessary  to  disturb  the  roots  at 
next  potting. 

Sow  seeds  of  Primula  sinensis  in  well-drained,  shallow  pans 
filled  with  soil  composed  of  light  loam,  leaf-mold  and  silver- 
sand  mixed  in  equal  parts  and  sifted  through  a  sieve  with  a  half- 
inch  mesh.  Having  made  the  soil  firm  and  level,  sow  the  seeds 
evenly  and  press  them  into  the  soil  with  a  piece  of  smooth  dry 
wood;  cover  the  seeds  lightly  with  fine  particles  of  sandy  leaf- 
mold  ;  water  with  a  fine  rose  and  cover  the  pans  with  a 
piece  of  glass  on  which  place  a  thin  layer  of  moss.  Keep  the 
moss  damp  until  the  seeds  germinate;  place  the  plants  in  a  tem- 
perature of  about  sixty  degrees  Fahrenheit;  shade  them  during 
the  sunshine  and  see  that  the  soil  does  not  become  dry.  Gradu- 
ally inure  the  young  plants  to  light  and  air,  and,  when  they  make 
four  leaves,  transplant  them  into  shallow  pans,  an  inch  or  two 
apart,  using  the  same  soil  as  recommended  for  the  seed. 

It  is  now  also  the  time  of  year  to  put  in  cuttings  of  Coleus, 
Acalyphas  and  other  soft-wooded  plants.  See  that  the  young 

[349] 


Gardening    in    California 


plants  of  this  class  are  not  allowed  to  get  pot-bound.  Acalyphas 
especially  should  be  given  plenty  of  pot-room  as  they  require 
good  cultivation. 

In  potting  young  plants  use  rich  loam,  half-decayed  leaf- 
soil  and  sand,  with  a  good  sprinkling  of  old  manure  and  a  little 
bone-meal;  keep  the  foliage  clean  by  sponging  the  leaves,  as 
overhead  watering  is  liable  to  cause  the  racemes  to  decay;  grow 
the  plants  in  a  warm,  moist  atmosphere. 


MAY. 

Sow  seeds  of  Cowslips  and  hardy  Primroses  early  in  the 
month,  either  in  a  cool,  shady  border  or  in  boxes  in  a  cold  frame 
where  they  should  be  kept  shaded  from  sunshine  until  germin- 
ation. Seedlings,  well-grown,  generally  give  better  results  than 
those  propagated  by  division  of  the  roots.  As  soon  as  the  young 
plants  are  large  enough  to  be  handled,  prick  them  out  in  a  shady, 
well-sheltered  border  in  a  light  soil,  giving  them  plenty  of  water; 
plant  them  in  their  permanent  quarters  in  September  or  October 
where  they  will  give  fine  effects  during  the  following  Spring. 

Annuals,  the  seeds  of  which  were  sown  some  weeks  ago  in 
the  flower-border  and  other  vacant  spaces,  should  now  receive 
attention  in  the  way  of  thinning,  in  order  that  they  may  not 
become  crowded.  Before  thinning,  give  the  ground  a  good 
soaking  with  water  so  that  the  roots  may  be  the  more  easily 
drawn  from  the  soil.  Should  there  be  any  danger  of  loss  from 
slugs  or  other  insects,  it  would  be  well  to  defer  the  final  thin- 
ning until  the  young  plants  are  at  least  three  inches  high.  It  is 
well  however  to  err  on  the  side  of  excessive  thinning,  as  crowded 
annuals  always  look  poor  and  insignificant  and  bloom  for  only 
a  short  time.  After  thinning,  mulch  lightly  with  old  manure 
about  half  an  inch  deep. 

A  further  sowing  of  any  subjects  which  will  come  into  flower 

[350] 


1  Qf  THE 

41VERSITY 

OF 


Calendar     of     Operations 


late  in  the  Autumn  is  now  in  order.  This  might  include  Sweet- 
peas,  Poppies,  Cornflowers,  etc. 

Border  Carnations  should  have  their  flower-stems  tied  loosely 
to  neat  stakes  painted  brown  or  green,  and  the  soil  of  the  beds 
should  be  hoed  after  each  watering,  never  being  allowed  to  crack 
or  become  baked. 

Bedding-out  of  all  the  tenderer  species  such  as  Alternan- 
thera,  Coleus,  Cockscomb,  Irisine,  etc.,  should  be  finished  this 
month,  cloudy  days  or  the  later  hours  of  the  afternoon  or  eve- 
ning being  selected  for  the  work. 

Should  the  planting  of  the  hardier  subjects,  such  as  Pentste- 
mons,  Antirrhinums,  Gailardias,  Dahlias,  Lobelia  cardinalis, 
etc.,  have  been  delayed,  they  must  be  planted  out  as  early  this 
month  as  possible;  select  favorable  weather,  avoiding  cold  days 
or  days  on  which  the  wind  is  strong  or  the  sun  very  hot.  Plant 
them  in  the  evening  and  give  them  a  thorough  watering  imme- 
diately. It  is  necessary  to  give  the  soil  a  good  watering  a  few 
hours  before  starting  to  plant,  and  on  no  account  plant  out  young 
bedding  stock  when  the  soil  is  at  all  dry  even  if  it  be  so  only  on 
the  surface. 

GREENHOUSE. 

Begonias,  started  some  weeks  ago,  will  now  require 
larger  pots;  allow  two  sizes  larger  where  the  plants  are 
in  vigorous  growth ;  pot  in  soil  composed  of  loam,  leaf -mold  and 
sharp  sand,  with  a  sprinkling  of  bone-meal  or  old  cow-manure 
mixed  through  it  for  the  tuberous  section;  for  the  fibrous 
division  of  the  family,  add  a  little  peat  to  the  mixture. 

Give  additional  pot-room,  as  required,  to  all  soft-wooded  or 
fine-foliaged  plants;  also  tie,  prune  or  stake  as  required  to  keep 
the  plants  in  good  shape. 

Prick  off  seedlings  of  Primula  sinensis,  Cinerarias  and  Cal- 
ceolarias in  pans  or  small  boxes,  planting  them  in  soil  composed 
of  leaf-mold  and  silver-sand  with  a  little  fibrous-loam  added. 

[353] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


Place  the  plants  in  a  close  frame  and  shade  them  during  the  hot 
sunshine,  avoiding  cold  draughts  of  dry  air. 

The  tubers  of  the  handsome,  Winter-blooming  Gesneria 
should  now  be  started.  Place  five  or  six  tubers  in  a  six-inch  pot, 
in  soil  composed  of  two- thirds  fibrous  loam  and  one- third  peat, 
with  a  little  leaf-mold  and  sand  to  keep  the  soil  open.  Cover 
the  tubers  to  the  depth  of  half  an  inch ;  place  them  in  the  warm- 
est corner  of  the  greenhouse  and  give  them  water  as  required  at 
the  roots  but  avoid  sprinkling  the  leaves  as  that  will  spot  them. 

JUNE. 

Neatness  and  cleanliness  should  always  be  evident  in  the 
flower-borders,  spent  flowers,  faded  leaves  and  weeds  being 
removed  at  least  once  a  week  and  the  surface  of  the  soil  stirred 
frequently  with  the  push-hoe  or  hand-fork. 

Continue  to  stake  and  neatly  tie  in  Carnations  and  all  plants 
requiring  support,  doing  this  before  the  stems  begin  to  fall  or 
bend  over.  Vacant  spaces,  rendered  so  by  the  passing  of  the 
late-Spring  flowers,  may  be  planted  after  being  fertilized  and 
spaded,  Dahlias,  Salvias,  Chrysanthemums,  etc.,  being  utilized 
for  late-Fall  flowering. 

Dahlias,  of  course,  all  require  stakes  which  should  be  set 
before  the  work  of  planting  proceeds,  and  the  shoots  ought  to 
be  fastened  loosely  to  the  stakes  so  that  they  may  not  be  broken 
by  the  wind. 

Roses  should  have  all  spent  flowers  removed,  partly  for 
appearance's  sake  and  partly  as  a  relief  to  the  plants.  After  the 
first  crop  of  flowers  is  past,  sprinkle  a  little  bone-meal  or  other 
artificial  fertilizer  around  the  plants  and  stir  the  surface  of  the 
soil,  leaving  it  a  little  rough  so  that  when  water  is  applied,  which 
should  be  done  immediately,  the  water  will  wash  the  fertilizer 
rootward.  A  few  hours  later,  or  as  soon  as  the  soil  will  work 
freely,  dress  the  surface  neatly  with  the  rake. 

[354] 


Calendar     of     Operations 


Climbing  roses,  especially  the  strong-growing,  free-flowering 
varieties,  should  have  the  young  shoots  secured  to  the  wires  or  the 
trellises.  If  their  roots  are  in  soil  which  is  light  and  dry,  abun- 
dance of  water  should  be  given  and  immediately  followed  by 
a  light  mulching. 

Attend  at  this  time  of  the  year  to  the  regulating  and  thinning 
of  climbing  plants  generally;  where  they  are  crowded,  thin  them 
out,  and,  where  plants  have  not  filled  their  allotted  space,  some 
shoots  should  be  laid  in  for  the  purpose. 

GREENHOUSE. 

Chrysanthemums  should  now  be  in  condition  to  be  trans- 
planted into  their  flowering  pots,  the  exact  date  for  pot- 
ting being  however  of  not  so  much  importance  as  the  condi- 
tion and  quantity  of  roots  in  the  pot.  Unless  the  roots  show  a 
network  around  the  ball,  repotting  should  be  deferred  until  this 
condition  prevails.  When  giving  them  their  final  potting,  use 
soil  composed  of  any  good,  strong,  turfy-loam  mixed  freely  with 
old  horse-manure  and  a  little  sand.  As  Chrysanthemums  require 
a  large  amount  of  water,  the  drainage  of  the  pots  should  be 
ample  and  carefully  placed  so  as  to  prevent  waterlogging.  After 
potting,  place  them  thickly  together  on  a  cindered  or  ash-covered 
surface  in  a  sheltered  position,  out  of  doors. 

The  dryness  of  the  air  at  this  season  will  neccessitate  the  con- 
stant damping  of  the  paths  and  stages  of  the  greenhouse.  Open 
all  ventilators  early  in  the  morning,  closing  them  again  early 
in  the  evening;  syringe  ferns  and  all  smooth-leaved  and  orna- 
mental-leaved plants  not  showing  flower,  with  tepid  water,  but 
carefully  avoid  syringing  with  cold  water  or  water  with  a  tem- 
perature lower  than  the  air  of  the  greenhouse  at  the  time  of 
syringing.  Plants,  showing  flower-trusses,  should  receive  occa- 
sionally weak  manure-water  or  a  top-dressing  of  some  artificial 
manure. 

[3551 


Gardening    in    Californi 


Sow  seeds  of  Calceolaria,  for  succession,  in  shallow  pots  or 
pans,  carefully  drained  and  containing  soil,  consisting  of  loam, 
leaf-mold  and  silver-sand  in  equal  parts,  which  has  been  passed 
through  a  half-inch  meshed  sieve.  The  soil  should  be  pressed 
firm  and  watered  a  few  hours  before  putting  in  the  seeds  which 
should  be  sown  evenly.  Barely  cover  the  seeds  with  a  light 
sprinkling  of  silver-sand;  place  them  in  a  cold  frame  or  hand 
glass,  facing  the  North;  keep  them  closely  shaded  until  they 
germinate  when  air  may  be  admitted  gradually;  sprinkle  them 
overhead  morning  and  evening. 

Put  in  cuttings  of  Coleus  for  the  Winter  decorations  and 
repot  Cinerarias,  Begonias,  and  other  soft-wooded  plants  as 
required. 

JULY. 

Gladiolas  are  now  much  benefited  by  a  dressing  of  old  stable- 
manure,  followed  by  copious  applications  of  water.  When 
nourished  in  this  manner,  the  plants  will  grow  to  a  large  size 
and  give  fine  spikes  of  large,  deep-colored  flowers. 

Dahlias  also  should  receive  plenty  of  water,  and,  when  in 
heavy  bloom,  they  will  be  greatly  benefited  by  a  generous 
supply  of  liquid  manure  twice  a  week;  no  plant  repays  generous 
treatment  and  good  cultivation  better  than  the  Dahlia.  Thin 
out  weak  shoots  and  attend  to  the  staking  and  tying  in  of  the 
shoots ;  also  thin  the  flower-buds  and  cut  off  all  spent  flowers. 

Early-flowering  varieties  of  Chrysanthemums  should  now  be 
making  rapid  growth.  If  weak  shoots  appear  they  should  be 
removed  at  once;  see  that  they  are  well  attended  to  in  the  way 
of  watering  and  repotting,  for  if  the  plants  are  allowed  to  suffer 
from  lack  of  pot-room  or  of  sufficient  moisture,  the  result  will  be 
weak  stems  and  small  flowers.  Attend  to  the  staking  and  tying 
of  the  plants  in  order  to  guard  against  injury  from  strong  winds. 

Deciduous  shrubs,  such  as  Weigelias,  Deutzias,  Mock  Orange, 
etc.,  should  have  the  shoots,  which  have  flowered  this  season, 

[356] 


Calendar     of     Operations 


cut  back  to  the  stronger  young  shoots,  and  all  weak  shoots 
removed  entirely.  Care  should  be  taken  that  they  receive  plenty 
of  water  at  the  root  during  the  growing  season. 

Seeds  of  Mignonette  may  now  be  sown,  selecting  if  possible 
a  cool  situation  facing  the  North.  After  sowing,  shade  the  soil 
with  some  light  material,  such  as  a  thin  layer  of  straw,  to  keep 
the  soil  from  baking  until  germination.  Sow  also  seeds  of  Pan- 
sies,  Hollyhocks,  Canterbury  Bells,  Intermediate  Stocks,  Wall- 
flowers, Anemone  coronaria,  Carnations,  and  other  early  Spring- 
flowering  plants.  By  sowing  seeds  this  month,  one  can 
count  on  having  strong  plants  ready  to  take  the  place  of  those 
which  finish  blooming  in  October,  and  the  plants  which  begin  to 
show  bloom  in  early  Winter  will  keep  the  flower-beds  bright 
with  color  until  late  in  the  Spring. 


GREENHOUSE. 


Put  in  the  last  of  the  Poinsettia  cuttings  for  the  year 
as  early  in  the  month  as  practicable,  care  being  taken  that 
the  young  plants  do  not  suffer  from  want  of  water,  as  few 
plants  show  the  effects  of  the  lack  of  it  more  quickly  than  the 
Poinsettia.  As  it  is  generally  desired  that  the  largest  plants 
possible  be  grown  in  small  pots,  a  rich  soil  should  be  used  in 
potting.  A  compost  consisting  of  good  turfy-loam,  good  peat 
or  leaf-mold,  and  silver-sand,  with  a  sprinkling  of  bone-meal 
will  be  found  suitable.  In  potting,  the  size  of  the  future  pot 
should  be  borne  in  mind  as  really  fine  plants  may  be  grown  in 
six  or  seven-inch  pots;  so,  in  the  first  potting,  three-and-a-half - 
inch  pots  will  be  found  large  enough.  When  the  cuttings  are 
first  potted,  return  them  to  the  cutting  bed  and  keep  them  shaded 
closely  for  a  few  days,  syringing  with  tepid  water  several  times 
daily  until  they  form  fresh  roots  when  they  can  be  gradually  ex- 
posed to  the  sunlight.  This  treatment  will  cause  the  leaves  to 
be  retained  almost  down  to  the  soil.  In  the  Southern  portions 

[3571 


Gardening    in    California 


of  our  State,  where  this  plant  gives  such  splendid  results  in  the 
open  air,  the  young  plants  may  be  set  out  in  their  permanent 
quarters  about  the  beginning  of  the  present  month,  a  sunny, 
sheltered  situation  and  a  fairly-rich,  light  soil  being  selected. 

Transfer  seedling  Cinerarias  and  Primulas  to  three-inch  or 
four-inch  pots,  selecting  soil  of  equal  parts  loam  and  leaf-mold 
with  a  little  sand  for  the  potting  material. 

Palms  should  now  be  in  full  growth  and  should  be  copiously 
syringed  night  and  morning  and  have  weak  manure-water 
applied  to  the  roots  at  least  once  a  week.  Should  any  scale  or 
other  insects  appear,  give  a  thorough  cleansing  with  soap-suds  or 
other  insecticide  (using  a  sponge  or  soft  rag  when  washing), 
going  over  the  leaves  two  or  even  three  times  until  they  are 
perfectly  clean. 

At  this  dry  season,  Ferns  should  be  given  a  plentiful  supply 
of  water;  the  air  of  the  house  should  be  maintained  as  cool  and 
moist  as  possible  by  keeping  the  floors  and  benches  constantly 
wet.  Keep  the  plants  shaded  at  least  eight  hours  of  the  day. 

Continue  to  propagate  Acalyphas  and  Coleus  for  Fall  and 
Winter  decoration. 

AUGUST. 

Cuttings  of  any  favorite  variety  of  Roses  may  now  be  put  in ; 
select,  for  this  purpose,  half-ripe  wood  or  short-jointed  wood 
which  has  perfected  its  flowers.  The  cuttings  should  be  taken 
off  with  a  heel  or  cut  just  below  a  joint.  Pieces  of  stems  about 
four  inches  in  length  will  be  found  sufficiently  long  for  cuttings. 
Insert  them  in  a  shady,  sheltered  corner  in  sandy  soil  and  let 
them  remain  there  until  growth  commences,  or,  better  still,  insert 
them  singly  in  small  pots  in  a  glass  frame  and  plunge  the  pots  in 
cool  ashes,  shading  them  for  a  few  hours  in  the  middle  of  the 
day.  They  should  be  sprinkled,  occasionally,  overhead  with 
water  and  the  frame  should  be  kept  moderately  close.  Frequent 

[358] 


Calendar     of     Operation 


attention  must  be  given  in  order  to  maintain  the  flower-garden 
in  good  and  attractive  condition;  all  spent  blossoms  should  be 
removed. 

All  annuals  whose  flowering  season  is  over  should  be  taken 
up,  the  soil  manured  and  the  spaces  planted  with  late-flowering 
plants.  Attend  closely  to  the  cultivation  and  irrigation  of  all 
Autumn-flowering  plants,  such  as  Dahlias,  Cannas,  Chrysan- 
themums, etc.,  giving  copious  supplies  of  water  at  the  roots  and 
also  giving  manure-water  as  required;  stir  the  soil  frequently 
and  rake  off  all  weeds. 

Keep  the  ground  about  Violets  well-cultivated  and  watered, 
removing  all  side  shoots  and  runners.  A  light  mulch  of  half- 
rotted  manure  will  benefit  them  greatly  during  this  season. 

Begonias,  both  the  fibrous-rooted  and  also  the  bulbous  sec- 
tions will  now  be  in  bloom.  Be  careful  that  they  do  not  suffer 
from  want  of  water  at  the  roots  and  also  overhead,  for  they 
should  be  sprinkled  from  above  in  the  evening.  A  mulching  of 
very  old  cow-manure  will  be  found  beneficial  and  will  greatly 
assist  in  prolonging  their  season  of  bloom. 

Sow  seeds  of  Anemone  coronaria,  mixing  the  seeds  with  fine 
sand  before  sowing;  when  the  seedlings  are  two  inches  high,  set 
them  out  in  rows  in  a  shady,  cool,  sheltered  situation. 

Also  put  in  seeds  of  Silene  pendula  and  Forget-me-not  for 
early-Spring  flowering.  These  too  should  have  a  cool,  sheltered 
spot,  being  transplanted  a  few  inches  apart  when  ready;  plant 
them  out,  where  it  is  desired  that  they  flower,  early  in  November. 

Rocheas,  as  they  are  now  classed,  are  very  showy  subjects, 
especially  the  scarlet-flowered  species  (Rochea  coccinea),  which 
blooms  so  freely  all  through  July,  August  and  September.  When 
it  is  desired  to  increase  the  stock  of  these,  cuttings  should  be 
inserted.  They  should  be  placed  in  three-inch  or  four-inch  pots 
filled  with  sand  and  old  lime-mortar  or  broken  brick,  mixed  with 
a  little  loam.  They  should  occupy  a  cool  position  facing  the 
North  where  they  will  be  found  to  readily  take  root.  This 

[361] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


free-flowering  succulent  should  be  seen  more  commonly  as  it 
grows  and  blooms  freely  with  little  care  and  requires  no  artificial 
irrigation. 

GREENHOUSE. 

The  Alocacias  and  other  ornamental,  foliaged  plants 
should  be  examined  from  time  to  time  for  red  spider,  Be- 
gonia mite  and  other  insect  pests.  Should  any  of  these  appear, 
the  leaves  should  be  sponged  with  some  insecticide.  It  should 
be  borne  in  mind  that  only  the  injury  caused  by  the  mite  and  not 
the  mite  itself  is  visible  to  the  naked  eye. 

Streptocarpus.  Keep  all  plants  near  the  glass,  affording 
them  shade  in  the  middle  of  the  day,  and  syringing  them  daily, 
morning  and  evening.  When  necessary,  change  them  into  larger 
pots,  potting  them  in  a  compost  of  loam,  leaf -mold  and  dry  cow- 
manure  taken  from  an  open  pasture.  Good  drainage  should  be 
afforded  and  they  should  be  kept  in  a  temperature  of  seventy 
degrees  Fahrenheit  by  night  an'd  in  a  moist  atmosphere  until 
showing  flower,  when  they  should  be  allowed  a  dry  atmosphere. 

Chrysanthemums.  Be  on  the  watch  for  black  aphis  and  green 
fly,  and  if  any  are  discovered  dust  the  leaves  with  tobacco-powder 
in  the  early  morning  when  the  foliage  is  damp. 

Make  all  growths  secure  by  staking  each  stem  to  light  stakes 
so  as  to  prevent  swaying  by  the  wind.  If  the  pots  are  full  of 
roots,  give  light  dressing  of  manure  about  the  roots,  or  water 
with  liquid-manure  about  twice  a  week. 

SEPTEMBER. 

Trees  and  shrubs  which  show  signs  of  flagging  should  receive 
attention  and  be  given  water  at  the  roots  otherwise  they  may 
be  greatly  injured,  especially  if  the  weather  should  continue 
hot  as  it  often  does  during  the  greater  part  of  this  month. 

Spanish  and  German  Irises,  having  ripened  their  bulbs,  may 
now  be  taken  up.  The  ground  in  which  they  are  to  be  replanted 

[  362  ] 


Calendar      of     O 


perations 


should  be  dug  deeply  and  well-fertilized  with  old  rotted  manure. 
The  bulbs  should  be  set  out  early  in  November;  in  the  meantime 
have  them  sorted  and  placed  in  boxes  in  a  cool  dry  place. 

Propagate  cuttings  of  all  bedding  plants  as  early  in  the 
month  as  practicable  so  that  they  may  be  well  established  before 
wet  weather  and  dark  days  arrive. 

Tuberous  rooted  Begonias  should  now  be  at  their  best; 
encourage  them  to  prolong  their  flowering  season  by  giving  them 
copious  waterings  and  by  giving  the  beds  a  light  mulch  of  some 
suitable  material  such  as  very  old  stable-manure  or  leaf-mold. 

Beds  of  Asters  and  other  annuals  which  have  ceased  to  bloom 
should  be  cleared  of  all  old  plants;  if  it  is  intended  to  nil  the 
beds  for  Winter  and  Spring  flowering,  have  the  ground  spaded 
over  and  apply  a  good  dressing  of  soot.  If  the  beds  were  man- 
ured in  Spring,  no  manure  will  now  be  required.  Plant  the  beds 
with  Wallflowers,  Myosotis,  Silene,  Pansies,  Aubretias,  Viola 
cornuta,  etc.,  planting  them  as  soon  as  convenient  so  that  they 
may  get  well-established  before  cold  weather  sets  in.  If  planted 
early,  they  should  begin  blooming  early  in  December  and  give 
abundance  of  flower  all  through  the  Winter  and  early  Spring. 

GREENHOUSE. 

Poinsettias  should  be  fully  exposed  to  the  sunshine  from  the 
present  time  on  in  order  to  mature  and  firm  the  growth. 

Let  the  last  batch  of  rooted  plants  be  placed  in  their  flower- 
ing-pots, which  need  not  be  larger  than  six-inch  and  the  smaller 
plants  will  do  better  if  given  four-inch  pots. 

Roman  Hyacinths,  Paper  white  and  Double  Narcissus.  Pot 
about  five  bulbs  in  a  six-inch  pot  filled  with  a  good  rich  compost, 
and  plunge  the  pots  in  ashes  for  a  few  weeks,  covering  the  pots 
with  sand  or  ashes  to  the  depth  of  six  inches,  leaving  them  thus 
until  the  bulbs  fill  the  pots  with  their  young  roots.  A  situation 
facing  North  is  most  suitable  for  the  plunging  bed.  When  the 

[  363  1 


Gardening    in    Californi 


pots  are  filled  with  roots,  they  may  be  brought  into  the  green- 
house and  gradually  exposed  to  the  light.  Pot  successive  lots 
of  bulbs  so  as  to  maintain  a  continuous  supply  of  flowers  from 
early  in  November  until  February  when  they  begin  blooming 
out  of  doors. 

Large-flowering  Hyacinths.  As  soon  as  the  bulbs  arrive, 
have  them  unpacked  at  once  and  placed  in  a  cool  place  until  they 
can  be  potted.  The  most  important  point  in  Hyacinth  growing 
is  in  the  preparation  of  the  soil  which  should  be  composed  of 
good  yellow  loam,  old  dry  cow-manure  rubbed  through  a  half- 
inch  sieve,  some  coarse  leaf-mold,  and  enough  sand  to  keep  it 
open.  This  compost  should  be  well-mixed  together  by  being 
turned  over  several  times,  and  should  be  left  to  mellow  at  least 
one  month  before  being  used.  For  single  bulbs  of  Hyacinths, 
use  a  pot  having  a  diameter  of  five  inches.  Crock  the  pot  by 
placing  one  flat  piece  of  crock  over  the  hole  in  the  bottom  of  the 
pot;  over  this  place  two  inches  of  potsherds  broken  into  small 
pieces,  and,  to  keep  the  soil  from  choking  the  drainage,  above 
these  place  a  thin^ layer  of  moss;  then  fill  the  pot  loosely  with 
the  soil,  making  a  hole  with  the  hand  for  the  reception  of  the 
bulb  and  placing  a  handful  of  sand  in  the  cavity;  on  this  place 
the  bulb ;  press  down  the  bulb  and  soil  together  and  make  the  soil 
firm  with  the  fingers,  leaving  the  crown  of  the  bulb  a  little  above 
the  soil.  Give  a  good  watering  and  place  out  of  doors  on  a  bed 
of  ashes  on  a  site  with  a  Northern  exposure  and  cover  to  the  depth 
of  six  inches  as  previously  advised  for  Roman  Hyacinths.  Here 
they  should  remain  for  about  six  weeks  when  they  should  be 
examined,  and,  when  the  pots  are  well-filled  with  roots,  they  may 
be  removed  to  a  cool  place  in  the  greenhouse  and  gradually 
exposed  to  light  and  air,  or  to  warmer  quarters  if  desired  to 
flower  early. 

Hyacinths,  to  flower  in  glasses,  should  be  solely  of  the  single- 
flowering  varieties,  and  only  good-sized  firm  bulbs  should  be 
selected.  Nearly  fill  the  glasses  with  soft  water  (rain  water 

[364] 


Summer  House.    Standard  Roses  on  Border  of  Path. 


((    UNIVERSITY  ) 


* 

Calendar     of     Operations 


preferred);  in  the  water  place  a  few  small  pieces  of  charcoal; 
place  the  bulbs  in  the  glasses  so  that  the  bases  barely  touch  the 
water  and  place  the  glasses  in  a  cool,  dark  situation  until  the  roots 
nearly  fill  the  glasses,  when  they  may  be  placed  in  the  greenhouse 
and  gradually  exposed  to  light  but  free  from  cold  draughts. 
When  it  is  desirable  to  transfer,  to  glasses,  Hyacinths  which 
have  been  grown  in  pots,  their  roots  may  be  freed  from  soil  by 
carefully  dipping  the  ball  in  water  and  washing  the  roots,  after 
which  they  may  be  placed  in  the  Hyacinth  glasses.  A  fresh 
batch  of  bulbs  should  be  potted  at  intervals  of  three  weeks  until 
November,  after  which  the  bulbs  seem  to  deteriorate. 

When  desired,  Tulips,  Scillas,  Crocuses,  etc.,  may  be  grown. 
The  same  soil  and  treatment  recommended  for  Hyacinths  will 
be  suitable  for  them  also. 

OCTOBER. 

Pinks  and  Carnations.  Cuttings  and  layers  which  were  put 
in  in  July  should  now  be  well-rooted  and  ready  to  be  planted  in 
their  permanent  quarters.  Examine  the  soil,  and,  if  it  looks  the 
least  sour  or  sticky,  have  it  dug  and  left  rough,  giving  it  no  water 
for  at  least  two  weeks;  this  treatment  will  greatly  assist  in 
sweetening  the  soil.  After  the  soil  has  been  well  dried  and  aired, 
give  it  a  good  watering  and  again  turn  it  over  with  the  spade; 
level  it,  and,  after  raking  it,  mark  the  ground  and  plant  the  young 
plants,  setting  them  out  about  eight  inches  apart.  Do  not  allow 
the  roots  to  become  at  all  dry  before  they  are  planted.  After 
planting,  give  a  good  watering  with  the  watering-pot  to  settle  the 
soil  about  the  roots,  afterwards  giving  a  light  sprinkle  to  the 
leaves.  A  light  spraying  every  evening  for  a  week  after  planting 
will  greatly  benefit  the  young  plants. 

Dahlias  should  still  afford  a  good  show  of  flowers.  See  that 
they  are  all  correctly  labeled  before  the  blooming  season  is  over; 
remove  all  spent  flowers  and  decaying  leaves,  and  give  copious' 
supplies  of  light  liquid-manure  during  dry  weather. 

[367] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


Chrysanthemums  will  now  be  showing  bloom.  Give  them 
also  a  generous  supply  of  water  at  their  roots  and  apply  liquid- 
manure  once  a  week.  When  large  flowers  are  desired,  thin  out 
the  flower-buds  to  one  bud  to  each  stalk  and  see  that  the  stems 
are  well-secured  by  being  tied  to  light  stakes  to  prevent  them 
being  blown  about  by  the  Autumn  winds. 

Fibrous-rooted  Begonias,  which  have  been  occupying  space  in 
the  flower-garden  during  the  Summer,  may  now,  if  thought 
desirable,  be  taken  up,  potted  and  taken  to  the  greenhouse  where 
they  will  continue  to  flower  most  of  the  Winter.  It  is  well  to 
shade  the  plants  for  a  week  or  ten  days,  after  placing  them  in- 
doors, until  they  form  new  roots. 

Anemones  may  be  planted  during  the  present  month;  plant 
them  six  inches  apart.  One-half  inch  of  soil  should  cover  the 
crowns,  and  any  good  friable  garden  soil  grows  them  well. 

Plant  Cowslips,  hardy  Primroses,  Cinerarias,  Pansies,  and 
other  early  Spring-flowering  plants  in  their  permanent  quarters. 

GREENHOUSE. 

Cinerarias.  The  more  forward  plants  should  now  be 
put  into  three-inch  pots  in  a  compost  of  loam,  two-thirds 
leaf-soil  and  one-third  dry  cow-manure  from  an  open  pasture, 
with  a  little  sand  and  a  sprinkling  of  bone-meal  added.  Let  them 
stand  on  a  bed  of  ashes  in  a  protected  spot  facing  North. 

Calceolarias.  Pot  off  the  young  plants  of  Calceolarias  in 
two-inch  pots  and  treat  as  recommended  for  Cinerarias. 

Primulas.  The  early  plants  will  soon  begin  to  show  their 
flower-spikes.  If  the  pots  are  full  of  roots,  give  them  a  little 
weak  liquid-manure  occasionally.  Later  plants,  now  in  three- 
inch  pots,  should  be  transferred  to  others,  five  inches  in  diameter, 
if  they  are  already  well-rooted.  This  treatment  will  be  suitable 
for  not  only  Primula  sinensis  but  also  Primula  stellata  (a  type 
which  should  be  more  commonly  seen)  and  Primula  obconica; 

[368] 


Calendar     of     Operations 


if  well  done,  this  will  enable  them  to  continue  in  bloom  through- 
out the  Winter. 

Caladiums.  Where  the  more  delicate  varieties  are  grown, 
great  care  should  be  given  them  at  this  season.  Many  tubers  are 
lost  every  year  by  being  dried  too  rapidly.  As  soon  as  the  leaves 
show  signs  of  dying  off,  the  plants  should  be  placed  in  a  position 
where  they  may  receive  the  full  light  and  be  watered  carefully, 
reducing  the  quantity  of  water  as  the  foliage  decays,  and  discon- 
tinuing it  altogether  when  the  foliage  is  all  dry.  When  the  tubers 
are  ripe,  allow  the  soil  in  the  pots  to  become  perfectly  dry. 
The  pots  may  be  laid  on  their  sides  under  the  plant-stage  or  in 
any  dry  place  where  the  temperature  does  not  fall  below  fifty 
degrees  Fahrenheit ;  they  may  remain  there  until  wanted  in  early 
Spring. 

Ferns,  which  have  been  growing  in  a  close  and  moist  atmos- 
phere, should  now  be  allowed  more  light  and  air,  as  soon  as  their 
growth  is  completed,  in  order  to  harden  their  fronds,  as  in  this 
condition  they  are  better  prepared  to  withstand  the  cloudy  days 
which  may  be  expected  during  the  next  three  months. 

NOVEMBER. 

Keep  the  lawn  well-rolled  and  smoothly  cut,  removing  all 
fallen  leaves.  The  latter  can  be  much  more  easily  swept  up 
when  the  grass  is  smooth  and  short  than  when  it  is  otherwise. 
The  walks  should  be  kept  well  rolled  and  their  edgings  neatly 
cut.  When  walks,  edgings  and  lawns  are  neatly  kept,  the  garden 
always  looks  well  even  though  flowers  and  color  may  be  scarce. 

Examine  Lily  bulbs  carefully  as  soon  as  their  leaves  have 
fallen  and  their  stems  are  dead,  to  see  if  they  are  attacked  by 
wire-worms.  Should  cut,  wire  or  other  worms  be  found  at  work 
in  the  bulbs,  take  the  bulbs  up  at  once  and  dip  them  in  water 
strongly  diluted  with  soot,  and,  as  soon  as  the  bulbs  have  been 
cleared  of  the  pest,  plant  them,  in  a  different  part  of  the  garden, 

[369] 


Gardening    in    California 


in  fresh  soil  in  which  no  worms  or  other  vermin  are  to  be  found. 
The  soil  should  be  rich  and  soft  with  no  rocks  or  hard  clay  in  its 
composition.  Plant  so  that  the  top  of  the  bulb  will  be  two  or 
three  inches  under  the  soil. 

Tuberous  Begonias,  which  have  ceased  to  grow  or  flower, 
should  have  their  stems  cleared  of  all  decaying  leaves,  and  their 
tubers  lifted  and  shaken  clear  of  soil ;  place  them  in  boxes  half- 
filled  with  sandy  leaf -mold,  and  store  in  a  cool  dry  place  where 
they  may  be  kept  until  required  for  replanting  in  the  Spring. 

Dahlias  also,  as  soon  as  their  tops  are  ripe  and  their  flowering 
ceases,  should  have  their  stems  cut  down  to  within  a  foot  of  the 
ground  and  their  roots  lifted  and  freed  from  all  soil.  After 
attaching  labels  to  each,  place  them  in  a  cool,  dry  shed  for  a  few 
weeks  and  then  store  them  away  for  the  Winter. 

Montbretias,  where  they  have  got  matted  too  thickly,  should 
be  taken  up  and  the  best  bulbs  selected  and  replanted  in  other 
quarters,  or,  if  in  the  same  ground,  after  the  soil  has  been  dug 
over  two  feet  deep  and  enriched  by  a  heavy  layer  of  manure  well- 
mixed  through  the  soil. 

Other  hardy  bulbs,  such  as  Iris  Ksempferi,  and  Iris  Ger- 
manica  as  well  as  the  Spanish  and  English  varieties,  should  be 
closely  examined,  and,  if  the  bulbs  are  at  all  crowded,  taken  up. 
Have  the  ground  spaded  and  enriched  by  a  heavy  coating  of 
manure  and  the  plants  replanted.  Most  of  the  Iris  prefer  a  moist 
situation  and  a  rich  soil. 

Lobelia  cardinalis.  Cut  down  old  flower-stems  and  divide 
the  crowns;  replant  them,  where  they  are  desired  to  bloom,  in 
good  rich  loam.  This  same  treatment  may  be  given  to  the  her- 
baceous plants  such  as  perennial  Phlox,  Doronicums,  Delphi - 
nums,  Tritonias,  etc.  Vacant  spaces  may  still  be  planted  with 
Tulips,  Hyacinths,  Daffodils  and  other  Spring-flowering  bulbs, 
planting  as  recommended  in  a  former  month. 

Myosotis  should  be  planted  freely  in  any  dry  bank  as  soon 
as  the  rains  have  sufficiently  moistened  the  soil. 

[370] 


Calendar     of     Operations 


Primroses  and  Cowslips  (if  this  has  not  already  been  done) 
should  have  the  crowns  divided,  and  replanted  singly  about  six 
inches  apart  after  the  soil  has  been  cultivated  and  enriched. 

Canterbury  Bells  may  be  set  out  in  suitably  prepared  spots. 
These  plants  look  exceedingly  well  in  clumps  or  groups.  Plant 
them  about  eighteen  inches  apart  and  not  too  deep. 

When  it  is  desirable  to  plant  evergreen  shrubs  or  trees,  No- 
vember is  one  of  the  best  months  for  doing  the  work.  Camel- 
lias, Rhododendrons,  Magnolias,  Laurels,  Pittosporums  and 
other  hardy  evergreens  move  well  at  this  season.  See  that  the 
soil  is  in  good  condition,  neither  too  wet  so  that  it  becomes  sticky 
with  working,  nor  so  dry  that  it  does  not  break  softly.  It  should 
be  moist,  without  being  wet  or  soggy,  so  that  it  will  rest  kindly 
among  the  fine  fibrous  roots.  Working  the  soil  among  the  roots 
with  the  fingers  is  still  the  best  way  to  manage  this  very  import- 
ant part  of  transplanting  either  flowering  plants  or  shrubs. 


GREENHOUSE. 


Palms  and  other  smooth-leaved  evergreens,  such  as  Cro- 
tons,  Marantas,  Cycas,  etc.,  which  may  be  infested  with 
scale,  should  be  carefully  sponged  and  cleaned,  using  a  little 
soap  and  plenty  of  clean  tepid  water.  Keep  Cyclamen  plants 
near  the  roof-glass.  Should  any  of  the  plants  require  repotting, 
pot  them  in  a  compost  of  three  parts  good  friable  loam  and  one 
part  leaf-mold  with  enough  silver-sand  to  keep  the  soil  free 
and  open.  Should  the  foliage  be  attacked  by  Mites,  which  will 
be  shown  first  by  the  rusty  appearance  of  the  foliage,  dip  the 
leaves  in  a  strong  solution  of  tobacco-water,  two  or  three  times, 
at  intervals  of  two  days.  Keep  at  a  temperature  of  about  fifty 
degrees  Fahrenheit. 

Calceolarias.  In  order  to  have  healthy,  strong  plants,  careful 
attention  must  be  paid  to  their  roots;  repotting  at  the  proper 
time  is  very  essential.  Should  the  operation  be  delayed  too  long, 

[37i] 


Gardening    in    California 


the  plants  become  stunted  and  rarely  recover  from  the  neglect. 
They  should  be  moved  just  as  soon  as  the  roots  have  well-occu- 
pied the  soil.  Keep  the  plants  in  a  cool  half-shaded  position 
away  from  fire-heat  and  dry  air.  While  giving  them  plenty  of 
ventilation,  no  cold  draughts  should  be  allowed  to  reach  their 
foliage.  Should  green  fly  attack  the  leaves,  fumigate  at  once, 
and,  if  necessary,  two  evenings  in  succession,  until  all  trace  of  the 
aphides  disappears. 

DECEMBER. 

When  Lawns  or  grass  edges  have  become  uneven  or  in  bad 
condition  or  partially  worn,  this  will  be  found  a  good  month  to 
relay  the  sod.  Low  spots  should  have  the  sod  raised.  This  is 
done  by  taking  up  the  sod  and  leveling  up  with  good  rich  soil, 
then  relaying  the  sod  and  afterwards  rolling  or  tamping  it  with 
the  back  of  the  spade  until  the  whole  is  level  and  even. 

Where  grass  edgings  are  worn,  the  sod  should  be  taken  up, 
(being  cut  in  squares  of  about  one  foot)  and  placed  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  walk.  After  giving  the  ground  a  good  coating  of 
old  manure,  spade  to  the  depth  of  twelve  inches,  breaking  up  the 
soil  as  fine  as  possible  with  the  spade.  Level  and  rake  the  ground 
into  shape  and  relay  the  sod,  putting  each  square  into  place  as 
neatly  as  possible.  Give  a  light  sprinkling  of  sifted  soil  and  a 
good  soaking  of  water;  the  following  day,  tamp  level  with  the 
back  of  the  spade,  making  the  whole  solid  and  hard.  After 
edging  into  line  it  should  look  as  well  as  an  old  established  lawn. 

Where  new  grounds  are  to  be  laid  out  and  much  planting  to  be 
done,  December  is  one  of  the  best  months  for  the  carrying  for- 
ward of  this  work,  also  for  the  planting  of  most  of  our  hardy  trees 
and  shrubs. 

Plant  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs,  also  Cypress,  Pine,  Laurel, 
Euonymus,  Box  and  all  hardy  evergreens,  leaving  Eucalyptus, 
Pittosporum  and  most  of  the  Australian  groups  until  March. 

[372] 


Calendar     of     Operations 


The  pruning  of  Roses  should  be  attended  to  this  month;  cut 
out,  first,  all  weak  or  sickly  growths  and  cut  back  all  unripe  soft 
shoots  to  firm,  mature  wood. 

Climbers  should  have  their  shoots  thinned  out  where  they  are 
at  all  matted;  cut  out  all  hard,  weak  wood  which  does  not  pro- 
duce strong,  young  shoots.  After  pruning,  tie  all  straggling 
shoots  into  place,  and  mulch  with  good  manure  about  the  roots 
of  all  Roses  whether  grown  as  standards,  on  trellises  or  in  beds, 
leaving  the  mulching  to  be  washed  in  by  the  Winter  rains.  Plant 
Roses  in  ground  well  trenched  and  manured. 


GREENHOUSE. 

Begonia  Gloire  de  Lorraine.  Propagate  this  plant  by  means 
of  the  leaves;  remove  the  leaves,  with  a  sharp  knife,  close  down 
to  the  base  of  the  leaf -stems,  and  place  them  in  shallow  pans 
filled  with  clean  sharp  sand  or  light  sandy  leaf-mold,  selecting 
strong  leaves  for  cuttings. 

Climbers  should  be  freed  from  superfluous  shoots,  all  growths 
too  weak  to  produce  flowers  being  removed  and  the  strong  shoots 
shortened. 

If  any  scale  or  other  insects  be  found  among  the  leaves  or 
stems,  the  plants  should  be  taken  from  the  trellises  and  thor- 
oughly cleaned. 

See  that  Poinsettias  and  other  flowering-plants  are  carefully 
watered  at  the  roots  and  their  flowers  and  bracts  kept  away  from 
drip  and  damp. 

Keep  all  paths  clean  and  give  air  freely  during  warm  weather, 
opening  the  ventilators  in  the  early  part  of  the  day  and  shutting 
them  up  again  as  soon  as  the  temperature  begins  to  fall  in  the 
afternoon.  See  that  the  foliage  of  all  plants  is  kept  clean  and 
free  from  insects. 


[375 


Index 


Index 


Page 

AARON'S    BEARD    (see    Saxifraga 

sarmentosa) 273 

ABELIA        ........  59 

floribunda 59 

rupestris         ......  59 

serrata 59 

triflora      .      .      .     *     ...  59 

ABIES  (Fir) 60 

amabilis 60 

balsamea 60 

bracteata        ..-..•,.  60 

Cephalonica        60 

concolor 60 

Douglasii 60 

grandis 60 

magnifica 60 

Mertensiana        .      .      .      .    60,  61 

Morinda 60 

nobilis 60 

Pattoniana 60 

Nordmanniana 60 

pectinata        60 

ABUTILON  (Bell  flower)      ...  64 

admiration 64 

fire  king 64 

purpurea        64 

Boule  de  Niege      ....  64 

ACACIA       ...   13,  48,  64,  326,  341 

armata 65 

Baileyana 65 

calamifolia 65 

cultriformis 65 

dealbata 65 

decurrens 65 

floribunda 65 

lineata 65 

longifolia       ....  55,  64-325 

lophantha 65 

melanoxylon       .      .      .  65 

mollissima 64,  65 

pycnantha 65 

riceana 65 

ACALYPHA 349,  358 

[379 


Page 

ACANTHUS 224 

mollis  latifolius       ....  224 

nigra 224 

spinosus 224 

ACER  (Maple) 66 

campestre  (English  Maple)  .     66 

circinatum 66 

Japonicum  (Japanese  Maple)     66 

macrophyllum 66 

negundo 66 

palmatum 67 

saccharinum   (Sugar  Maple)     66 

Schwedleri 66 

ACHANIA  (Turk's  Cap)     ...     67 

ACHIMENES 341 

Acroclinium 224 

ADIANTUM 299,  340 

capillus  veneris       ....  205 
AESCULUS    (Horse  Chestnut)      .     67 
Californica   (Common  Buck- 
eye)      68 

carnea 68 

glabra  (Ohio  Buckeye)    .     .     68 

hippocastanum         ....     68 

AGAPANTHUS  (African  Lily)       .  181 

AGAVE  (Century  Plant)     .     .     .217 

AGERATUM 225 

AGROSTEMA 225 

corona  ria 225 

ALBIZZIA  JULIBRISSIN    .     .     .   63-327 
ALDER.     (See  Alnus)     ....     68 

.     .  324 

ALLSPICE.     (See  Calycanthus)     .     76 
ALMOND.     (See  Amygdalus)        .     69 

ALNUS  (Alder) 68 

ALOCASIA 293,  340,  362 

ALOE 218,  342 

vera 218 

ALOYSIA     CITRIODORA     (Sweet 

Scented  Verbena)  ...  68 
ALSOPHILA  AUSTRALIS  ....  205 
ALTHCEA  ROSEA  (Hollyhock)  .  226 
ALTERNANTHERA  .  .  335,  345,  353 


Gardening    in    Californi 


Page 

ALYSSUM        227,  342 

alpestris  (sweet)     .     .     .     .227 

saxatile 227 

AMARANTHUS 227 

bicolor 227 

salicifolius 227 

tricolor 227 

AMARYLLIS 181 

belladona 181 

Imantophyllum   miniatum      .   182 
vallota  purpurea     ....   182 
AMOPHYLLA  ARENARIA  (Sea  Bent 

Grass) 320 

AMPELOPSIS 170 

quinquefolia     (Virginia 

Creeper) 170 

tricuspidata  (Boston  Ivy)     .   170 

AMYGDALUS  (Almond)     .     .     .     .69 

ANEMONE  .     .  227,  334,  342,  357,  368 

coronaria       ....      227,  361 

fuljens 228 

Japonica        ....      227,  228 

hepatica 227,  228 

ANNUALS  .     .    '.      334,  341,  350,  361 
ANTIRRHINUM  (Snap-dragon)     . 

228,  336,  353 

majus 228 

APHIDES   (Green  or  Brown  Fly) 

272-303-304 

Black        304,  362 

APONOGETON 347 

APPLE..  (See  Pyrus)     ....   148 

" 330 

APPROACHES  TO  HOUSE  ....       5 

APRIL 346 

AQUILEGIA  (Columbine)     .     .     .  229 

caerulea 229 

chrysantha 229 

glandulosa 229 

ARABIS 228,  342 

ARALIA 68 

ARAUCARIA 69-326 

Bidwellii 69 

Braziliensis    ...  .      .     69 

Cookii 69 

excelsa 69 

imbricata  .     69 


Page 
ARBUTUS    ........     70 

Menziesii  (Madrone)        .      .     70 
unedo  (Strawberry  Tree)      .     70 

ARECA  BAURII 293 

lutescens        293 

sapida       .......  293 

ARISTOLOCHIA 170 

sipho   (Dutchman's  Pipe)      .   170 

AROIDES 190 

ARUNDINARIA 210 

falcata 209,  210 

Hindsii 210 

Japonica   ....  .      .  210 

metake 209 

Simonii 210 

ARUNDO 213,  214,  285 

conspicua 213 

donax 213,  214 

ASH.     (See  Fraxinus)       .      .      .   110 
mountain.     (See    Pyrus   acu- 

paria) 148 

mountain.     (See  Sorbus  acu- 

paria) 156 

ASPARAGUS  PLUMOSA     ....  340 

springerii 340 

ASPECT  OF  SITE 1 

ASPIDISTRA  LURIDA 293 

lurida  variegata      ....  293 

ASPLENIUM 205,  299 

ASTER    ....     229,  335,  345,  363 

Chinese  annual        ....  229 

AUBRETIA  DELTOIDES      .     .      230,  363 

AUCUBA  JAPONICA 70 

aurea 70 

bicolor 70 

picta  alba  variegata     ...     70 

AUGUST 358 

AURICULA        342 

AUSTRALIAN  FLAME  TREE.     (See 

Sterculia) 159 

AZALEA 71,  345,  348 

AZARA    MlCROPHYLLA       ....       72 

BALSAM.     (See  Impatiens)       .      .252 

BAMBOOS 211,  326,  347 

and  Grasses 209 

Grouping  of       .      .     13,  209,  213 
In  Parlor-Gardening  .      .      .  293 


[380 


Ind 


e  x 


BAMBOOS — Continued 
Planting  of  . 
Propagation  of  . 
See  Bambusa 
Situation  for 
Water  for 


Page 

209,  285 

.  .  210 

209,  210 

.  .  209 

209,  210 


BAMBUSA 210 

aurea 209 

Marmorea 210 

palmata .     .  213 

quadrangularis 210 

BANKSIA 72 

BARLEY-SEED 319 

BASINS  —  SOIL  —  FOR    WATER 
PLANTS     ...     7     .     .     .284 

BASKETS,  HANGING 340 

Wicker 346 

BEDDING  PLANTS 223 

BEECH.     (See  Fagus  sylvatici)    .   106 

BEGONIA 230 

293,  297,  333,  336,  340,  342,  346, 

349,  353,  356,  361,  363,  368,  370 

Gloire  de  Lorraine      .      349,  375 

rubra 230 

Vernon     ....     .     .     .230 

BEGONIA  MITE 362 

BELL  FLOWER.     (See  Abutilon)    .     64 

BELLIS  (Daisy) 231 

perennis 231 

BENCHES,  RUSTIC 41 

BENTHAMIA 73 

BERBERIS 73 

aquifolium 73 

buxifolia        73 

Darwinii        73 

Japonica 73 

loxensis 73 

Nepaulense 73 

stenophylla 73 

BERBERRY.     (See  Berberis)     .     .     73 

BERMUDA  GRASS 57 

BETULA  ALBA 74 

BIGNONIA 171 

capreolata 171 

cherere 171 

Tweediana 171 

venusta  171 


Page 

BIRCH,  GROUPS  OF      .     .  13,  209,  285 

(See  Betula  alba)  ....     74 

BLECHNUM  BRAZILIENSE     .     .     .  205 

spicant 205 

BOCCONIA 232 

cordata 232 

frutescens 232 

integrifolia 232 

BONE  MEAL 349 

BORDEAUX  MIXTURE      ....  303 
BOSTON     FERN.      (See     Nephro- 
lepis  exaltata)    ...      293,  340 

BOTTOM  HEAT 318 

BOTTOMING  ROADS  AND  WALKS      .     44 

BOUGAINVILLEA 172 

glabra 172 

lateritia 172 

Saunderiana 172 

speciosa 172 

BOUVARDIA 74 

angustifolia 74 

jasminiflora        74 

scabra 74 

BOXES — SOIL — FOR  WATER  PLANTS  284 
BOXWOOD,    TREE.      (See    Buxus) 

75,  372 

BREATH       OF       HEAVEN.       (See 

Diosma)        96 

BROOM.     (See  Cytissus)     ...     93 
Spanish.    (See  Spartium  jun- 

ceum)         157 

BUCKEYE.     (See  ^Esculus)     .     .     67 
BUCKTHORN.     (See  Rhamnus)     .   151 

BUDDING 311 

BULBOUS  AND  TUBEROUS   ROOTED 

PLANTS .  181 

BULBS,  DIVISION  OF 317 

in  Window-box      ....  294 

examination  of 369 

Buxus  (Tree  Boxwood)   ...     75 

argentia 75 

aurea 75 

Balearica 75 

Japonica 75 

longifolia 75 

suffruticosa 75 

BUTTERNUT.     (See  Juglans)    .     .  119 


381] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


Page 

CACTUS 219,  297,  342 

CALADIUM  .  .  .  .340,  345,  369 
CALADIUM  ESCULENTUM  .  293,  342 
CALANDRINA  CAULESCENS.  (See 

Portulaca) 265 

CALANDRINIA        232 

CALCEOLARIA  .  .  353,  356,  368,  371 
CALENDAR  OF  OPERATIONS  .  .  .  329 

January .330 

February 334 

March 341 

April 346 

May 350 

June    ........  354 

July     ........  356 

August 358 

September 362 

October 367 

November 369 

December 372 

CALENDULA 232 

CALLISTEMON        76 

CALLIOPSIS 345 

CALOCHORTUS  (Mariposa  Lily)    .   182 
CALYCANTHUS      (Carolina     All- 
spice)         76 

CAMELLIA  ....  77,  326,  371 
CAMPANULA  ....  233,  297,  341 

carpathica 233 

media  (Canterbury  Bells)     .  233 

pyramidalis 233 

CAMPHOR    TREE.       (See    Laurus 

Camphora) 123 

CANARY  ISLANDS  DATE  PALM  .  308 
CANDYTUFT.  (See  Iberis)  .  .  252 
CANNA  (Indian  Shot)  234,  347,  361 

Indica 234 

CANTERBURY   BELLS.     (See   Cam- 
panula)    ....  233,  357,  371 

CARAGANA 77 

CARNATION.    (See  Dianthus  cary- 

ophyllus) 241 

CARNATION 

.     .    299,  341,  353,  354,  357,  367 

GARPINUS  BETULUS   (Hornbeam)     78 

GARYA  (Hickory  Tree)      ...     78 

alba  (Shell-bark  Hickory)    .     78 

[382 


Page 
CARYA — Continued 

olivaeformis       (Pecan       Nut 

Tree) 78 

CASSIA 79 

corymbosa 79 

Marylandica       .....     79 

sophora 79 

CASTANEA  (Chestnut)  ....  79 
CASUARINA  (She-oak)  ...  80 
CATCHFLY  (Silene)  .  .  .  274-298 
CATERPILLARS  .  .  .  272-306-307 
CEANOTHUS  (California  Lilac)  .  80 
CEDARS,  GROUPING  OF  ....  13 
Incense.  (See  Libocedrus)  127 

of  Lebanon 81-326 

(See  Cedrus) 81 

CEDRUS .81 

Atlantica        .      .      .      .      .      .81 

Deodora 81-326 

Libani  (Cedar  of  Lebanon)   .     81 

CELOSIA 234-333 

CENTAUREA   (Cornflower)        .      .  235 

rugusina 235 

CENTURY  PLANT.    (See  Agave)  .  217 

CERASUS 82 

ilicifolia 82 

lauro-cerasus    (English  Lau- 
rel)  82 

serrulata        82 

CEREUS 219 

Emoryii 220 

giganteus 220 

CERCIS  (Judas  Tree)     ....     83 

CESTRUM 83 

aurantiacum 83 

elegans 83 

fasciculatum 83 

CHAMEAROPS 193 

excelsa 193 

humilis 193 

CHEIRANTHUS  (Wallflower)   .     .  235 
CHERRIES    ........  304 

CHESTNUT.     (See    Castanea)       .     79 

Horse.     (See  ^sculus)    .      .     67 

CHINESE  PINK.     (See  Dianthus)  241 

CHOISYA  TERNATA  84 


Ind 


e  x 


Page 

CHRYSANTHEMUM 236. 

348,  354,  355,  356,  361,  362,  368 

Anemone 237 

incurved         236 

Pompone 237 

recurved 236 

CINERARIA 

237-333-334,  353,  356,  358,  368 
CISTUS  (Rock  Rose)     ....     84 
CITRUS   AURANTIUM    (Sweet   Or- 
ange)         85 

decumana  (Shaddock)      .      .     85 

Japonica        85 

linita  (Lime) 85 

limonei   (Lemon)    ....     85 
nobilis    (Mandarin)      ...     85 

trifoliata        85 

vulgaris   (Bitter  Orange)       .     85 
CLAY — TREATMENT   OF       .     .    38,  54 
Use    in    puddling    lakes    and 

ponds 281 

CLEMATIS        172 

paniculata 172 

CLETHRA 86 

arborea 86 

quercifolia 86 

CLIANTHUS .86 

puniceus         86 

CLIMBERS  AND  TWINERS  170,  355,  375 

CLOVER 57 

COB^A  SCANDENS 173 

Cocos 194 

australis 194 

plumosa    ...    9,  194,  195,  293 
COFFEE    TREE,    KENTUCKY.     (See 

Gymnocladus) 114 

COFFEE,  WILD.      (See  Rhamnus)   151 
COLEUS    .  340,  346,  349,  353,  356,  358 

COLLINSIA 342 

COLUMBINE.     (See  Aquilegia) 

229,  342 

COLD  OR  COOL  FRAME     ....  317 
CONSERVATORY — THE   AMATEUR'S. 

(See  Greenhouse)       .     .      .  299 
CONSTRUCTION     OF     ROADS     AND 
WALKS 40 

[383 


Page 
COPROSMA  (New  Zealand  Holly)     87 

Baueriana 87 

picturata        87 

variegata 87 

CORAL  TREE.  (See  Erythrina)  .  98 
CORAL  BUSH.  (See  Temple- 

tonia)        163 

COREOPSIS        238 

CORNFLOWER.     (See  Centaurea)  . 

235,  336,  353 

CORNUCOPIA  FLOWER.     (See  Da- 
tura)          94 

CORNUS   (Dogwood)     ....     87 

Florida 88 

Nutallii 87 

sanguinea 88 

CORONILLA 88 

CORYNOCARPUS 88 

CORYPHA  AUSTRALIS      ....  293 

COSMOS 238,  345 

COTONEASTER 89 

COTTON  WOOD.  (See  Populus)  .  324 
COTYLEDON  (Echeveria)  .  .  .  220 
COWSLIP.  (See  Primula)  .  . 

266,  350,  368,  371 

COXCOMB 353 

CRASSULA        ....  220,  221,  342 

coccinea 221 

CRAT^GUS  (Hawthorn)  ...  89 
CREAM  CUP.  (See  Platystemon)  264 

CROCUS 183,  367 

CROWNING  ROADS  AND  WALKS  .     .     42 

CRYPTOMERIA        90 

CUPPRESSUS  (Cypress)       ...     90 

Lawsoniana        90 

Monterey 90 

Nutkatensis        91 

sempervirens      (Italian 

Cypress) 90 

CUTTINGS,  PROPAGATION  BY      .     .  314 

in  hot-bed 317 

CYCAS 371 

CYCLAMEN 371 

CYDONIA      JAPONICA      (Japanese 

Quince) 93 

alba 93 

CYPERIUS    .  *     .     .     .     .  347 


Gardening    in    Californi 


Page 

CYPRESS.     (See  Cuppressus)  .     .  DISEASES   OF   PLANTS.     (See   In- 

13,  48,  90,  326,  372  sects)        -302 

Italian 359  Nature  and  Causes  of      .      .  302 

Montezuma.      (See    Tax-  mildew 302 

odium) 162  DITCHES — DRAINAGE       ....     39 

Swamp.     (See  Taxodium)    .  DIVISION  OF  THE  BULBS      .     .     .  317 

162,  285  DOCK 58 

Monterey      .     .     .       90-324-325  DOGWOOD.     (See  Cornus)   ...     87 

CYSTOPTERIS  FRAGILIS     ....  205  DOLICHOS 173 

CYTISSUS  (Broom)       ....     93  DORONICUM     ....    244-334,  370 

racemosus 93  DRACAENA        46,  299 

DAFFODIL.     (See  Narcissus)    .      .  terminalis 292 

187,  334,  370  DRAINAGE 38 

DAHLIA 239,  335,  345,  ditches 39 

347,  353,  354,  356,  361,  367,  370  tiles 38 

imperialis 239  with  clay  soil     .....     38 

Jaurezii      ...         ...  239  with  rocks 38 

variabilis 239  pipe 39 

DAISY.     (See  Bellis  perennis)     .  231  DRAINS — TILE 37 

Transvaal.       (See     Gerberia  DRIVES,  LOCATION  OF      ....       5 

Jamiesonii) 246  (See  Roads  and  Lawns)       .  342 

DANDELION 58  DUTCHMAN'S  PIPE.    (See  Aristo- 

DAPHNE 94  lochia  sipho) 170 

DATURA  (Cornucopia  flower)      .     94  DUSTING  PLANTS 303 

arborea 94  with  tobacco 304 

carnigera 94  with  sulphur 305 

sanguinea 94  ECCREMOCARPUS 173 

suaveolens 94  ECHEVERIA  (Cotyledon)     .      220,  342 

DAVALIA 299,  340  ECHINOCACTUS 219 

DECIDUOUS    TREES,    SHRUBS    AND  polycephalius 219 

CLIMBERS        ...     48,  330,  372  viridescens 219 

DECEMBER        372  ECHIUM  (Viper's  Bugloss)     .     .     96 

DELPHINUM  (Larkspur)    .      241,  370  ELDER.     (See  Sambucus)   .      154,  324 

DEUTZIA 95,  356  ELEAGNUS  (Wild  Olive)    ...     97 

crenata 95  ELM.     (See  Ulmus)      .     .      166,  326 

gracilis 95  ERIANTHUS  RAVENNA  ....  213 

DIANTHUS   CARYOPHYLLUS    (Car-  ERICA   (Heath) 97 

nation) 241  arborea 98 

DIANTHUS 243,  345  capitata 98 

Chinese  Pink 243  gracilis 98 

Sweet  William       .      .      .      .243  hybrida 98 

DICKSONIA  ANTARTICA  ....  205  hymalis 98 

DIEFFENBACHIA 292  Meditcrranea 98 

DIERVILLEA  OR  WfiiGELiA     ...     95  melanthera 98 

DIGITALIS  (Fox  Glove)      .     .     .  244  persoluta 98 

DIOSMA  (Breath  of  Heaven)       .     96  ventricosa 98 

DIRECTIONS  AND  EXPLANATIONS  .  309  Willmoreana 98 

[384] 


Ind 


e  x 


Page 
ERYTHEA 194 

armata  (Blue  Palm)   .     .     .194 
^dulis        .......   194 

ERYTHRINA  (Coral  Tree)       .     .     98 

Humei 98 

indica 98 

ESCALLONIA 99 

Montevidiensis        ....     99 

rosea 99 

rubra        99 

ESCHSCHOLTZIA    (  California 

Poppy)       ...      244,  336,  342 
EUCALYPTUS    (Australian    Gum) 

...  13,  4f^lOO,  325,  323,  341 
amygdalina  .  .  ~^ — r~~— ,  .  103 
cornuta  .  .  .  .  .  .  .  100 

corymbosa 103 

corynocalyx        ......   103 

fkifolia 100,  101 

globulus  (Blue  Gum)       .     .   100 

leucoxylon 100 

Landsdowniana        ....   100 

piperita 100 

pyraformis 100 

saligna 100 

sideroxylon 103 

tetragous 100 

viminalis 103 

EUGENIA 104 

latifolia  or  Smithiana       .      .   104 

my  rti  folia 104 

EULALIA  JAPONICA  .  .  213,  214,  285 
EUONYMUS  (Spindle  Tree)  104,  372 

grandiflorus        105 

Japonica        .     .     .     .     .     .105 

Japonica  argentea         .     .      .   105 
Japonica  Due  de  Anjou  .     .   105 

latifolia 105 

EVERGREENS — TIME  FOR  PLANTING  36 
EXOCHORDIA  (Spirea  grandiflora)  105 
EXPLANATIONS  AND  DIRECTIONS  .  309 

FABIANA 106 

FAGUS  SYLVATICA  (Beech)  .  .  106 
FALSE  NUTMEG  TREE.  (See  Tor- 

reya)         165 

FATSIA 109 

horrida  ,   109 


Page 
FATSIA — Continued 

Japonica        109 

papyrifera 109 

FEBRUARY 334 

FEATHER  GRASS 213 

FERNERY,  FORMATION  OF,  ETC.  .     .  302 

FERNS    

202,  203,  293,  299,  339,  358,  369 

Boston 293 

Deer 205 

Five-fingered  .  .  .  205,  293 
formation  of  fernery  .  .  .  202 
growing  in  pots  ....  206 

planting 206 

rockery  for  ...  202,  205,  207 

soil  for 202 

sword 205 

tree 203,  205 

watering        205 

FERTILIZER,  IN  SAND  RECLAMATION  325 

FEVERFEW.    (See  Pyrethrum)       _  266 

Ficus  (Rubber  Tree)   .   107,  109,  340 

elastica     ....   107,  109,  292 

FIG.     (See  Ficus) 107 

Indian.      (See     Opuntia     or 
Prickly  Pear)      ....  228 

FIR.     (See  Abies) 60 

Grouping  of 13 

Pitch.     (See   Picea)    ...   141 

FORMAL  APPROACH 359 

FORGET-ME-NOT.     (See  Myosotis) 

257,  361 

in  window-box 298 

FOOT-PATH.     (See   Walks.)    .     . 
Fox  GLOVE.     (See  Digitalis)  244,  342 
FRAMES,  COOL  OR  COLD    ....  317 

garden •     •  317 

hot 317 

FRAXINUS   (Ash) 110 

excelsior        HO' 

FRUIT  TREES 330 

FUCHSIA    .     .     .      245,  247,  294,  347 

FUNKIA 347 

FUMIGATION,  OF  GREENHOUSE  .     . 

304,  305,  372 

by  tent 307 

GAILARDIA 345,  353 


[3851 


Gardening    in    California 


Page 

GARDEN,  SELECTION  OF  SITE  FOR     .       1 
preliminary  plans  for  ...       1 

planting  of 6,  12 

water  for 280 

frames 317 

formal 317 

GARDENIA Ill 

Fortunei Ill 

radicans  major       .      .      .      .111 

GARDENING,  PARLOR 292 

formal 321 

GATEWAY,  LOCATION  OF       ...       5 

GAZANIA 246 

GENISTA 112 

GERANIUM    (Pelargonium)      .     . 
....  261,  293,  297,  299,  347 

ivy 294 

GERBERIA  JAMIESONII   (Transvaal 

Daisy) 246 

GESNERIA 354 

GEUM 249 

GILIA 249 

GINKGO  (Maidenhair  Tree)    .     .112 
biloba  laciniata       .      .      .      .112 

pendula 112 

GLADIOLUS       ....  250,  342,  356 
GLEDITCHIA  (Honey  Locust)       .   112 

aquatica 113 

Chinese 113 

Japanese        113 

GLOXINIA 341 

GOLDEN     CHAIN.      (See     Labur- 
num)        .......   121 

GOLDEN  FEATHER.     (See  Pyreth- 

rum) 266 

GRADING 6,  37 

roads  and  walks     .      .      .    40,  44 

for  lawns 54 

for  lakes  and  ponds    .      .      .  281 

GRAFTING 314 

cleft 314 

side 314 

whip 314 

GRASSES 209 

Bermuda 57 

feather  (Stipa  pennata)    .      .  213 
for   lawns  55 


Page- 
GRASSES — Continued 

grouping   mixed      ....  213 

Kentucky  Blue 56 

orchard 213 

Pampas 213,  215 

Rye,  English  and  Australian 

56,  57 

Sea  Bent       .      .      .  320,  323,  324 

seeds 54 

walks        321 

GREEN     OR     BROWN     FLY.      (See 

Aphides) 272r 

.     .  303,  347,  349,  362,  372 
GREENHOUSE.       (See     Conserva- 
tory)       299 

fumigation  of 304- 

care  of — January  ....  333 
February  .  .  .339 
March  .  .  .  .345 

April 348 

May 353 

June 355 

July 357 

August  .  .  .  .362 
September  .  .  .  363 
October  .  .  .  .368 
November  .  .  .371 
December  .  .  .  375 

GREVILLEA 113 

fasciculata 113 

juniperini 113 

punicea 113 

robusta 113 

saligna 113 

Thelemanniana        .      .      .      .113 

vestita 113 

GROUND,  PREPARATION  OF     .     .     .37 

grading  of 37 

grading  for  roads  and  walks    40 

for  lawns 54 

platting 6 

plowing 37,  40,  47 

rolling 40 

trenching 37 

GROUNDS,     ARRANGEMENT     OF 
LAWNS,  TREES  AND  SHRUBS  IN    12 
preliminary  plans  for     .   1,  2,  12 


386 


I  nd 


e  x 


Page 
GROUNDS — Continued 

surveying  and  platting  of  .  6 
GROUPING  TREES  AND  SHRUBS  .  .  13 

flowers      .......     17 

GUM.     (See  Eucalyptus)    ...   100 

Blue 325 

Red 325 

Sweet.  (See  Liquidambar)  128 
GYMNOCLADUS  (Kentucky  Coffee 

Tree)        114 

GYMNOGRAMEA 299 

HAKEA 114 

HALESIA 114 

hespida    ........   114 

HANGING  BASKETS 340 

replanting  of  340 

HARROWING 37,  40 

HAWTHORN.     (See  Cratsegus)      .     89 

Groups  of 13 

HEAT,  BOTTOM 318 

HEATH.     (See  Erica)    ....     97 
HEDERA  HELIX  (Ivy)     ....   174 

HEDGE 351 

HELIANTHUS  (Sunflower)       .      .  250 

multiflorus 251 

HELIOTROPE      ....  251,  297,  335 

common  or  Peruvianum  .  .  251 
HERBACEOUS  AND  BEDDING  PLANTS  224 
HETEROMELES  ARBUTIFOLIA  .  .  13 
HEUCHERA 251 

sanguinea 251 

HICKORY.     (See  Carya) .    ...     78 
HOLLY.     (See  Ilex)       ....   116 

native 13 

New     Zealand.       (See     Co- 

prosma) 87 

HOLLYHOCK.    (See  Althcea  rosea) 

226,  336,  345,  357 

HONEYSUCKLE.      (See    Lonicera)   176 

English 176 

Japanese        176 

Scrub.  (See  Banksia) .  .  .  72 
HORNBEAM.  (See  Carpinus  be- 

tulus) 78 

HORSE-CHESTNUT.       (See    ^Escu- 

lus) 67 

HOSE  ....     17 


Page 

HOT-BED 317 

HOT  FRAME 317 

HOUSELEEK.      (See   Semper- 
vivum) 223 

HOUSE,   SELECTION    OF  SITE   FOR        .          1 

staking  off    .    -. '    .      .     .      .       2 

HYACINTH 

183,  297,  333,  334,  363,  364,  370 
wood.  (See  Scilla)  ...  190 

HYDRANGEA 115 

Hortensia 115 

Dr.  Hogg 115 

Japonica        115 

paniculata 115 

HYMENOSPORUM  FLAVUM    .     .     .  115 

HYPERICUM 116 

Androsianum 116 

Moserianum 116 

patulum 116 

IBERIS    (Candytuft)        .     .     .     .252 

ILEX   (Holly)      .  - 116 

opaca        H7 

IMPATIENS   (Balsam)     ....  252 

Sultani     .... 
INDIAN  FIG.     (See  Opuntia)       .  219 
INDIAN  SHOT.     (See  Canna)       .  234 
INDIGOFERA 117 

INSECTS  INJURIOUS  TO  PLANTS     . 

302,  339 

Aphides  or  Green  Fly     272,  303 

Black  Fly 304 

Caterpillars  .  .  .  272,  306,  307 
fumigation  for  .  .  304,  305,  305 
in  window-box  ....  298 

mite 362 

Red  Spider  ...  305,  306 

Rose-leaf  roller      .     .     .     .348 
«        Slugs        .     .     . 

Scale 307,  30£ 

Thrips      .... 

lOCHROMA  .... 

grandiflora 1 

lanceolata 1 

tubulosa   

IPOMEA 174,  345 

IRESINE      .     .     .     253,  335,  345,  352 

387] 


Gardening    in    Californi 


IRIS       .     . 
Florintini 
Germanica 
Kaempferi 
pumila 
Susiana    . 
tectorum 
ISOLEPIS 
ITEA      .     . 
Virginica 


Page 

184,  334,  347,  362 
.     .     .      184,  370 

184 

.     .     .      184,  370 

184 

184 

184 

340 

118 

.   118 


IVY.     (See   Hedera   helix)      174,  334 
Boston.      (See      Ampelopsis 
tricuspidata) 170 

IXIA 185 

JACARANDIA 119 

JANUARY 330 

JAPANESE    PAGODA    TREE.      (See 

Sophora) 156 

JASMINE.     (See  Jasminum  offici- 
anale)         175 

JASMINUM      .     .     .     .     .     .     . .  74 

nudiflorum          175 

officianale  (Jasmine)    .      .      .   175 

JONQUIL.     (See    Narcissus    Jon- 
quila) 187 

JUBEA 194 

spectabilis   (Wine  Palm)       .   194 

JUDAS  TREE.     (See  Cercis)     .     .     83 

JUGLANS 119 

Californica 119 

cinerea  (Butternut)     .      .      .119 
nigro    (Eastern   Black   Wal- 
nut)        199 

regia   (English  Walnut)        .   119 

Seiboldiana 119 

JULY 356 

JUNE 354 

JUNIPER.     (See  Juniperus)      .      .   120 

JUNIPERUS 120 

Bermudiana 120 

Californica 120 

Chinensis 120 

communis 120 

Fortunis 120 

Virginiana 120 

sabina 120 

Suecica  .   120 


Page 
JUNIPERUS— Continued 

procumbens 120 

KENNEDYA 175 

KENTIA  (Belmoriana)  ....  292 
KENTUCKY  BLUE  GRASS  ...  56 
KENTUCKY  COFFEE  TREE.  (See 

Gymnocladus)  .  .  .  .  .114 

KERRIA 121 

KNIPHOFIA  (Redhot  Poker  Plant)  185 

KOZLREUTERIA    PANICULATA          .        .    121 

LABURNUM  (Golden  Chain)      .       121 

Adami 121 

vulgare 121 

"        aureum       .      .      .      .121 
involutum        .      .      .   121 
quercifolium    .      .      .    121 
Watersii     ....   121 
LADY  WASHINGTON.     (See  Pelar- 
gonium)      261 

LAGERSTRCEMERIA  (Crepe  Myrtle)  122 
LAKES.  (See  Ponds,  Lakes  and 

the  Water  Garden)     .      .      .280 
LANDSCAPES,  NATURAL  ....     13 
disposition      of      trees      and 

shrubs  in 20 

LANTANA 122 

LARKSPUR.  (See  Delphinum)  .  241 
LASIANDRA  (Pleroma)  .  .  .  123 

macrantha 123 

LASTREA 205 

LATANIA  BOURBONICA  .  .  .  . .  293 
LATH YRUS  ODORATUS  (Sweet  Pea)  175 

LAUREL 104,  371,  372 

California.      (See     Umbellu- 

laria  Californica)      .      .      .   167 

English.     (See  Cerasus)        .     82 

grouping  of  .      .     .     .13,  14,  17 

Portuguese.     (See    Cerasus)     82 

LAURUS     CAMPHORA      (Camphor 

Tree) 123 

nobilis        124 

LAWNS 54,  343,  372 

grading  for 54 

grasses  for 55 

location   of 8 

manure  for 54 

outlines  of 7,  53 


388 


Ind 


e  x 


Page 

LAWNS — Continued 

preliminary  work  for  ...     54 

raking 55 

rolling      ....       54,  56,  369 

seed  for 55 

soil  for 54 

surroundings  of      .      .      .      .     13 

water  for     ........     56 

weeds  in 54,  57 

LAYERING^  PROPAGATION  BY     .      .  316 

LEMON.     (See  Citrus  limonei)     .     85 

LEPTOSPERMUM  ....  124,  325 
laveagatum  ...  59,  124,  125 

LEUCADENDRON  (Silver  Tree)  .  127 
argentium 127 

LEVELING  THE  GROUND      .      .    37,  44 

LIBOCEDRUS  (Incense  Cedar)   .      .   127 

Chilensis        127 

decurrens 127 

Dombiana 127 

LIGUSTRUM   (Privet)      ....   128 

ibota 128 

Japonicum 128 

lucidum 128 

ovalifolium 128 

LILAC.  (See  Syringa)  .  .  .161 
California.  (See  Ceanothus)  80 

European 161 

grouping  of 13 

Japanese        161 

Persian 161 

LILIUM 186 

auratum 186 

candidum  (St.  Joseph's  Lily)   186 

giganteum 186 

Humboldtii 186 

lancefolium    .      .      ...      .      .    186 

Pardalinum         186 

tigrinum         186 

Washingtonianum   ....    186 

LILY.  (See  Lilium)  ....  186 
African.  (See  Agapanthus)  181 
Calla.  (See  Richardia  Ethi- 

opica)         190 

Calla 285,  347 

Mariposa.  (See  Calochortus)   182 


Page 
LILY— Continued 

Royal    Purple.     (See    Nym- 
pholea    Zanzibarensis)        .  286 

St.    Joseph's.      (See    Lilium 
Candidum)      .      .      .      .      .   186 

Water 282,  289 

LIME  FOR  SLUGS 307 

(See  Citrus  linata)  ...  85 
LINDEN.  (See  Tilia)  .  .  .  .165 

grouping    of 14 

LIQUIDAMBAR.     (Sweet  Gum)     .   128 

styraciflua 128 

LIRIODENDRON.      (Tulip    Tree)     .129 
LIVISTONIA 197 

australis 197 

Chinensis 1^7 

LOBELIA     .     .  253,  297,  333,  336,  347 

cardinalis  253,  254,  257,  353,  370 

speciosa 253 

LOCATION   OF  A   SITE    ..     .     .     .     1 
LOCUST.     (See  Robinia)    .     .     .152 

Honey.  (See  Gleditchia)  .  113 
LONICERA.  (Honeysuckle)  .  .  176 
LOT  PLANTING  PLAN  .... 

25' x  120'      ......     20 

40' x  120' 21 

50' x  150' 22 

75' x  150' 23 

100' x  180' 24,   25 

150' x  200' 26,   27 

200' x  350'     ....  28,  29,  30 

300' x  400'     ....  30,  31,  32 

ten  acre  tract  32,  33,  34,  35,  36 
LOTUS.  (See  Nelumbium)  288,  346 
LUPIN.  (See  Lupinus)  .  254,  336 

Yellow 320 

LUPINUS    .     .  254,342 

arboreus 254 

bicolor      .      .      . 

chamosonis 254 

LYCHNIS 

LYONOTHAMNUS 129 

MADRONE.      (See   Arbutus)    .          70 
MAGNOLIA       .     .  130,326,371 

acuminata 130 

conspicua       .      .      . 

grandiflora 130 


[389 


Gardening    in    Californi 


Page 
MAGNOLIA — Continued 

muscata 130 

obovata 130 

parviflora 130 

soulangiana 130 

stellata 130 

tripetala 130 

MAIDENHAIR  TREE.    (SeeGinkgo)  112 

MAMILIARIAS 219 

Goodrichii 219 

Grahamii 219 

MANDEVILLEA  SUAVEOLENS       .     .  177 

MANURE,  LIQUID 356 

use  in  trenching    ...     38, 54 
use    in    planting    and    trans- 
planting      53 

use    in    preparing    soil     for 

lawns 54,58 

use    in    mulching    and    top- 
dressing     310 

MAPLE.     (See  Acer)    ....     66 

grouping  of 13, 14 

Norway 324 

MARANTA        293,371 

bicolor 293 

Zebrina 293 

MARCH       .     . 341 

MARIGOLD 345 

MARLIACEA  HYBRIDS      ....  286 
MATTHIOLA.      (Stock)       .     .     .255 

MAURANDIA 177 

MAY 350 

MAYTENUS 133 

boaria 59, 133 

Chilensis 133 

MEDLAR.     (See  Mespilus)       .     .  135 

MELALEUCA        131, 133 

dicussata 133 

fulgens 133 

leucadendron      .      .      .       131, 133 
MELIA    AZEDARACH.      (Umbrella 

Tree) 134 

MELIANTHUS   MAJOR     ....   135 
MESEMBRYANTHEMUM   .... 

220,  222,  294,  342 

aequilaterale 222 

australis   .  .  222 


Page 
MESEMBRYANTHEMUM — Cont'd 

spectabilis 222 

versicolor 222 

MESPILUS.     (Medlar)    .     .     .     .135 
Japonica        .     .     .     .       134, 135 

METROCEDEROS 135 

robusta 135 

MIGNONETTE.    (See  Reseda)   .     .  267 
MIGNONETTE    ....  297,  342,  357 

MILDEW 272,  302,  303 

Grape  Vine 302 

Hop 303 

Pear 303 

Powdery 302 

Rose 272,  302,  303 

treatment    for 303 

MIMULUS 256 

cardinalis 256 

glutinosa 256 

luteus 256 

moschatus.     (Musk)    .      .      .256 
MOCK   ORANGE.      (See   Philadel- 

phus)          ....       140,356 

MONTBRETIA 187,  370 

MORUS  NIGRA.     (Mulberry)    .     .   136 

MUEHLENBECKIA 178 

complexa 178 

MULBERRY.     (See   Morus  nigra)  136 
MULCHING  AND  TOP-DRESSING      .  309 

flower  beds 310 

lawns        310 

seeds 310 

trees  and   shrubs    .      .      .  53, 310 
MULLEN.     (See  Verbascum)       .  275 

MUSA 257 

Cavendishii 257 

coccinea 257 

ensete 257 

MUSK.      (See    Mimulus   moscha- 
tus)        256 

MYOSOTIS.     (Forget-me-not)  .     . 

......      257,363,370 

MYRICA 136 

MYRTLE.     (See  Eugenia)    .      .     .   104 
Common.     (See  Myrtus  com- 
munis) 136 


[390] 


Ind 


e  x 


Page 

MYRTLE — Continued 

Crepe.       (See     Laegerstroe- 
meria)        .     .     .     .     .     .122 

MYRTUS.     (Myrtle)       .     .     .     .136 

apiculata 137 

bullata 137 

communis 136 

NANDINA 137 

domestica 137 

NARCISSUS.      (Daffodil)    187,297,363 
Jonquilla.     (Jonquil)        .     .  189 

NASTURTIUM.     (See  Tropaeolum)  274 
Nasturtium     .     .     .  293,294,342 

NELUMBIUM       285,288 

alba  grandiflorum  ....  288 
luteum.  (American  Lotus)  288 
speciosum.  (Egyptian  Lotus)  288 

NEMOPHYLLA       .     .     .     258,336,341 

aurita 258 

insignis 258 

NEPHROLEPIS     EXALTATA.       (See 
Boston  Fern) 293 

NERIUM.     (Oleander)   .     .     .     .137 

NOVEMBER 369 

NURSERY  Rows 317 

NUTMEG  TREE,  FALSE.    (See  Tor- 
reya)         165 

NYMPH^EA 285,  346 

alba 286,291,346 

Caroliniana 285 

candidissima 286 

caerulea 286 

cromatella     ......  346 

dentata 287 

Devoniensis        286 

exquisita 285 

fulgens 286 

lotus 287 

marliacca 346 

odorata 285,291 

rosea 286 

sulphurea 285 

tuberosa 286,  346 

Zanzibarensis.  (Royal  Purple 
Lily) 286 

OAK.     (See  Quercus)   .     .     .     .149 
Oak       .          .      13,     14,  324-331 


Page 

OAK — Continued 

Attacks   of  caterpillars    .     .  306 

Black 149 

Cork 149 

English 149,150 

Evergreen 150 

Live 149 

Pin 150 

Shrub  or  Scrub      .     .     .13, 324 

Turkey 150 

White 149 

Willow 150 

OCTOBER 367 

CENOTHERA 258 

albicaulis       .     .     .     .     .     .258 

biennis 258 

bistorta 258 

cheiranthifolia 258 

ovata 258 

OFFSETS 316 

propagation  by  .....  316 

OLEANDER.     (See  Nerium)    .   18, 137 

OLEARIA 138 

Fosterii 138 

Gunnii 138 

Haastii 138 

OLEA  EUROPA.     (Olive)     ...   138 

OLIVE.     (See  Olea  Europa)   .     .   138 
Wild.     (See  Eleagnus)    .     .     97 

OPUNTIA.     (Indian  Fig)    .     .     .  219 

ficus  indica 220 

litoralis 220 

prolifera        220 

ORANGE.      (See   Citrus)    ...     85 
Mock.      (See    Philadelphus) 
140,356 

OSMUNDA 205 

OSMANTHUS    .......    139 

aquifolium 139 

fragrans 139 

OXALIS 259 

PADDING — IN  STAKING  TREES    .     .     52 

P^ONY 259 

Moutan 259 

officianalis 259 

PALMS       ....   193,358,371,373 
Blue.     (See  Erythea  armata)  194 


391] 


Gardening    in    California 


Page 
PALMS — Continued 

Cabbage.      (See    Sabal    Pal- 
metto)         198 

California  Fan.    (See  Wash- 
ingtonia)    ....       199,201 

Date 194,308 

for   Conservatory    ....  299 
Japanese  Cane.  (See  Rhapis)   198 

moving 49 

potting 300,301 

Soil  for 299 

Sidewalk 9,193 

Wine.      (See    Jubea    specta- 

bilis) 194 

PAMPAS  GRASS    .     .  213,215,283,285 

PANDANUS    UTILIS 292 

PANICUM 340 

PANSY.  (See  Viola)  ....  276 
PANSY  . .  297,  298,  357,  363,  368 
PAP  AVER  (Poppy)  .'....  260 

bracteatum 260 

daneborg 260 

orientalis 260 

shirley 260 

somniferum 260 

PAPYRUS  ANTIQUORUM       .      285,  347 

PARKINSONIA 139 

PARLOR  GARDENING  .     .     .     .     .  292 

PASSIFLORA 179 

PAULOWNIA 139 

PEACOCK-FLOWER.      (See     Poinci- 

ana) 145 

PEAR 330 

PELARGONIUM    (Geranium)      .      .  261 
Lady  Washington  ....  261 

Zonale 261,  297 

PENTSTEMON  .  261,  336,  341,  352 
PEPPER  TREE.  (See  Schinus 

molle) 154 

PETUNIA  .  .  .  262,  293,  335,  345 
PHILADELPHUS  (Mock  Orange)  140 

coronarius 140 

Gordonianum 140 

grandiflora 140 

PHILLYREA 140 

PHLOX       .     .     .     263,  341,  347,  370 
Drummondii       .      .  263,  335,  345 


PHLOX — Continued 

subulata    . 
PHOZNIX     . 

Canariensis    . 

dactylifera     . 

reclinata  . 

rubicoli     . 

sylvestris 

Zelandica 


Page 

.  .  263 

.  .  198 

197,  198 

.  .  198 

.  .  198 

.  .  198 

.  .  198 

.  198 


PHOTINIA    (California    Redberry 

or  Holly) 141 

PHYLLOSTACHYUS 210 

aurea        210 

henonis     .      .      .'     .      .      209,  210 
nigra 210 

PHYLOCACTUS 219 

PICEA   (Pitch  Fir)    .      .      .    -  .      .    141 

PlLEA    MUSCOSA 340 

PlMELIA 142 

PINE.    (See  Pinus) 

.     .     .     13,  48,  142,  287,  372 

Austrian 324 

grouping  of  ....        17,  143 

Italian   Stone 143 

maritime 324 

Monterey       ...   142,  324,  325 

sugar 142 

yellow 324 

PINKS.    (See  Carnations)  .      .      .  367 

PINUS    (Pine) 142 

cembra 143 

halepensis 143 

insignis 142,  209 

Lambertiana 142 

Murrayana 142 

pinea 143 

rigida 142 

PIPE   (Water) 17 

for  lakes 282 

PITTOSPORUM        .     .     .104,  144,  371 

crassifolium 144 

eugenoides 144 

nigricans 144 

tobira 144 

undulatum 144 

PLAN,  DETAILED 12,  18 

for  lakes  and  ponds    .      .      .  281 


392 


I  nd 


e  x 


Page 
PLAN — Continued 

of  grounds  and  garden    .      .     12 

''    planting,   preparing      .      .       7 

grouping       .      .     10 

preliminary 2 

planting — 

for  lot  25' x  120'  ....  20 
"  "  40'  x  120'  ....  21 
*  "  50' x  150'  ....  22 
"  "  75' x  150'  ....  23 
"  "  100'  x  180'  ...  24,  25 
"  "  150'  x  200'  .  .  .  26,  27 
"  "  200'  x  350'  .  .  28,  29,  30 
"  "  300' x  400'  .  .  30,  31,  32 
"  "  of  10  acres  .  .  . 

....  32,  33,  34,  35,  36 
PLANE  TREE.  (See  Platanus)  .  144 
\^ 'Australian.  (See  Sterculia 

^     acerifolia) 159 

PLANTING  AND  TRANSPLANTING  .     47 
care  of  roots  in       ....     51 

grouping,    etc 10,  13 

ferns 206 

harmony    in 14 

on  hill  site 12 

operation    of 48 

plan  of.     (See  plan,  planting) 

7,  47 

time  for 47 

PLANTS,  INJURING  ROAD  BEDS  .      .     33 
PLANT  LICE.     (See  Aphides)       .  303 
PLATANUS     (Plane    Tree,    Syca- 
more)     144 

PLATYSTEMON  (Cream  Cup)   .     .  264 
PLEASURE  GARDEN  AND  GROUNDS, 

PLANNING  OF 12 

PLEROMA.     (See  Lasiandra)    .     .   123 

PLOW,  SUB-SOIL 37 

PLOWING 37,  40,  47 

cross- 40 

PLUM.     (See  Primus)       .     .     .147 

PLUMBAGO 145 

capensis 145 

Zealanica 145 

POINSETTIA      .     .      333,  357,  363,  375 

POINCIANA  (Peacock-flower)       .  145 

pulcherrima        145 


Page 
POINCIANA — Continued 

regia 145 

POLIANTHES        TUBEROSA        (Tube- 

rose) 189 

POLYGALA 146 

Dalmaisiana 146 

POLYPODIUM 205 

POLYSTICHUM 205 

POMEGRANATE.    (See  Punica  gran- 

atum) 148 

PONDS,  LAKES  AND  THE   WATER 

GARDEN 280 

bottom  for 281 

excavating  for 281 

piping  for 282 

planning  out 281 

plants  for     ....      282,  285 

puddling 281 

size  and  shape  .  .  .  280,  282 
soil  boxes  for  .  .  .  .  284 
staking  out 281 

PONTODERIA    CORDATA         ....    347 

POPLAR.     (See  Populus)    ...   146 

aspen 146 

Carolina 146 

grouping  of 17 

Lombardy 146 

silver-leaved 146 

POPPY.      (See   Papaver)    .     .     . 

....     260,  336,  342,  353 
California.          (See       Esch- 

scholtzia) 244 

Matilija.        (See      Romneya 

Coulterii)        153 

shirley      .......  260 

POPULUS  (Poplar)   .     .     .  •   146 

PORTULACA  (Purslane)  .     .  265 

POTATO  VINE.    (See  Solanum  jas- 

minoides)        179 

POTENTILLA 265 

POTS,    SIZE,   TREATMENT,    ETC.     300,   301 

for  ferns 206 

POTTING     .... 

ferns 206 

PREPARATION  OF  THE  GROUND  . 

PRICKING  OUT 

PRICKLY    PEAR.      (See    Opuntia)  219 


393 


Gardening    in    Californi 


Page 

PRIMROSE.      (See    (Enothera) .      258 

(See  Primula)     .     .  266 

....  350,  368,  371 

PRIMULA    .     .     .      266-333,  358,  368 

Japonica 266 

obconica 266,  368 

sinensis  ....  349,  353,  368 
PRIVET.  (See  Ligustrum)  .  .  128 
PROPAGATION,  BY  DIVISION  OF  THE 

BULBS        317 

by  cuttings   .     .     .  314,  317,  326 

"   layering 316 

"   offsets 316 

"    suckers 315 

PRUNUS  (Plum) 147 

mume 147 

pissardii 147 

sinensis  flora  pleno      .     .     .   147 

triloba 147 

PRUNING 330 

PTERIS  ARGYREA 293 

critica 293 

tremula 205 

PUDDLING  PONDS  AND  LAKES    .     .  281 
PUNICA   GRANATUM    (Pomegran- 
ate)        148 

PURSELANE.     (See  Portulaca)     .  265 
PYRETHRUM  (Feverfew)  266,  333,  347 

roseum 267 

PYRUS  (Apple) 148 

acuparia  (Mountain  Ash)     .   149 

Americana 149 

Bellfleur 148 

floribunda      ....      148,  149 

Japonica 149 

malus 149 

QUASSIA  EXTRACT 348 

QUERCUS  (Oak) 149 

cerris 150 

palustris 150 

phillos 150 

robur 150 

suber        150 

Virginiana 150 

QUINCE,  JAPANESE.   (See  Cydonia 

Japonica)        93 

RAKING,  FOR  LAWNS      .  ,  .     .     .     54 

[394 


Page 

RANUNCULUS  ASIATICUS   .     .     .  189 
RECLAMATION  OF  SAND  ....  319 

by  Sea  Bent  Grass.  320,  323,  324 

trees  and  shrubs  used  in  324,  325 

REDBERRY.     (See  Photinia)     .     .  141 

California      ......     13 

REDHOT     POKER     PLANT.       (See 

Kniphofia) 185 

RED    SPIDER 305,  362 

REDWOOD.    (See  Sequoia)  .      .      .   155 

grouping  of 14 

RESEDA  (Mignonette)    .     .     .     .267 
RHAMNUS     (Buckthorn)     (Wild 

Coffee) 151 

Californicus 151 

RHAPIS  (Cane  Palm)   .     .     .     .198 
flabelliformis  (Japanese  Cane 

Palm)         293 

RHODODENDRON     .     .     .   151,  326,  371 

Californicum 152 

Catawbiense 152 

ponticum 152 

RICHARDIA      ETHIOPICA       (Calla 

Lily) 190 

ROADS 40 

bed  of 44 

bottoming  of      .....     44 

construction  of 40 

crowning 42 

finishing 46 

grading 40 

location  of 5 

rock  for 44 

rolling 45,  46 

shaping 44 

staking  out 5 

through  drifting  sand       .     .  322 

ROBINIA    (Locust) 152 

ROCHEA.      (See    Crassula    cocci- 

nea) 361 

ROCK,     FOR     BEDS     OF     PONDS     AND 

LAKES 282 

for  draining 39 

"  roads  and  walks  .  .  43,  44 
ROCKERY,  FERN  .  .  .  202,  207,  342 
ROCK  ROSE.  (See  Cistus)  ...  84 


Ind 


e  x 


Page 

ROLLING,  LAWNS       .     .     .     .  54,    56 
roads  and  walks    .     .  40,  44,  46 
ROMNEYA     COULTERII      (Matilija 

Poppy) 153 

ROOTS,    IN    PLANTING    AND    TRANS- 
PLANTING           51 

in  conservatory  plants     .      .  333 

ROSA  (Rose) 268 

Banksia 268,  270 

Bourbons 271 

Cherokees      .     .     .     .      268,  270 
Climbers        .     .     .  271,  355,  375 

Diseases  of 272 

Hybrid  perpetuals  .     .      269,  271 
Manette    .     .     .  ~.     .     .     .269 

Pillar  ........  271 

Ramblers       .     .     .     .      268,  270 

Standard 365 

Tea 269,  270,  271 

ROSE-LEAF  ROLLER 348 

ROSE.    (See  Rosa) 268 

299 

.     .     .  330,  348,  354,  358,  375 

"        RUST 272 

ROWS,  NURSERY 316 

RUBBER  TREE.     (See  Ficus.)   109,  326 
RUBBER  PLANT   (Ficus  Elastica)   292 

RYE    GRASS 56 

Australian 57 

English 57 

SABAL  PALMETTO  (Cabbage  Palm)  198 

Blackburniana 198 

Mexicana 198 

umbraculifera 198 

SAGGITARIA 347 

SALIX  (Willow) 153 

alba 154 

Babylonica 154 

vitellina 154 

SALPIGLOSIS 272,  335 

SALT,  FOR  SLUGS 307 

SALVIA 273,  354 

patens 273 

SAMBUCUS   (Elder)       ....  154 

aurea 154 

glauca 154 

racemosa 154 


Page 

SAND  RECLAMATION 319 

composition  of  sand   .     .     .  319 

experiments  in 319 

by  Sea   Bent   Grass    .      320,  324 

shifting  sand 319 

trees  used  in     ...     324,  325 

fertilizer   for 325 

SAXIFRAGA 273,  342 

palmata 273 

sarmentosa  (Aaron's  Beard)  273 

SCABIOSA 274 

SCALE 307,  308 

SCHINUS    MOLLE    (Pepper   Tree)  154 

SCILLA  (Wood  Hyacinth)     .  190,  367 

campanulata 191 

SCOLOPENDRUM 205 

SEA    BENT    GRASS     (Amophylla 

arenaria) 320 

culture  of 324 

in  shifting  sand      .     .      320,  323 

SEAFORTHIA 293 

elegans 201 

SEDUM .     223,  342 

sempervivum 223 

SEED,  GRASS 55 

SEMPERVIVUM  (Houseleek)     .     .  223 

SEPTEMBER 362 

SEQUOIA  (Redwood)     .     .      155,  326 

gigantea 155 

sempervirens 155 

SERVICE  TREE.     (  See  Sorbus  '  do- 

mestica) 157 

SHE  OAK.    (See  Casuarina)  .     .     80 

SHRUBS 59 

form  and  habit  .  .  .  .  13 
deciduous  .  .  .  48,  331,  372 
grouping  ...  8,  11,  13 

hardy 13 

mulching 53 

planting 47 

preparing  the  ground  for     .     37 

selection  of 7 

stakes  for 52 

transplanting 47 

SHRUBBERY,   EFFECT 13 

planting  of 13 

395] 


Gardening    in    California 


Page 
SILENE  (Catchfly)    .     .  274,  298,  363 

compacta 274 

pendula 274,  361 

SILVER  TREE.    (SeeLeucadendron)  127 

SITE,  ASPECT  OF 1 

for  house  and  garden.      .      .       1 

grading  of 6 

location   of 1 

planting         ......       7 

SLUGS         - .     .  307 

SNAP-DRAGON.        (See     Antirrhi- 
num           .      .  228 

SNOWBALL.    (See  Viburnum  opu- 

lus  sterilis)        168 

SOIL,  BLACK  DOBE     .     .     .     .    54,  58 
Brown  loam      .      .      .      .    54,  58     ^ 

Clay         37,  54 

Drainage   of 37 

for  cacti        219 

for  ferns       ....      203,  205 

for  lawns 54,     58 

for  palms 299 

for  water  plants  ....  285 
for  window-box  ....  294 
grading  of  .  .  6,  17,  40,  54 

harrowing 37 

mulching 53 

plowing  ...  37,  40,  47 
sandy  .  .  .37,  54,  58,  319 

saving   of 6,    41 

subsoil 37 

surface 37,    40 

trenching      ...     37,     54,  330 
use    in    planting    and    trans- 
planting       47,     51 

SOIL-BOXES  OR  BASINS  FOR  WATER 
PLANTS 284 

SOLANUM  179 

jasminoides    (Potato   Vine)     179 

•  Wendlandii         179 

SOOT,  REMEDY  FOR  SLUGS     .     .     .  306 

SOPHORA 156 

Japonica    (Japanese    Pagoda 

Tree) 156 

SORBUS      ACUPARIA       ( Mountain 

ash) 156 

Americana 157 

[396 


SORBUS — Continued 
domestica 
sambuci  folia 

SOWING  GRASS  SEED 

SPADING 


Page 

.  157 
.  157 
.  55 
.  330 


SPANISH  BROOM.     (See  Spartium 
junceum) 157 

SPARTIUM      JUNCEUM      (Spanish 

Broom)          157 

SPINDLE  TREE.     (See  Euonymus)  104 

SPIREA       . 158 

aruncus 158,  347 

Chinensis 158 

Douglassii 158 

dumosa 158 

grandiflora.      (See   Exochor- 

dia) .105 

Japonica        158 

Lindleyana 158 

lobata 158 

media 158 

millefolia 158 

opulifolia 158 

palmata         158 

prunifolia 158 

SPONGING  PALMS 358 

window-box  plants      .      .      .  298 

SPRUCE 13 

STABLES,  STAKING  OFF    ....      6 

STAKING  OFF,  HOUSE  SITE  ...       2 
roads  and  walks     .      .      .    5,    40 

stables 6 

trees 52 

STAKES,  FOR  HOUSE  SITE     .      .    3,      5 
for  roads  and  walks   .      .    5,     40 

for  stables 6 

for  transplanting    ....     52 

for  trenching 37 

grade        41,    43 

line -40 

witness 43 

STERCULIA 159 

acerifolia   (Australian  Flame 

Tree)          159 

diversifolia 159 

platanifolia 159 

STIPA  PENNATA   (Feather  Grass)  213 


Ind 


e  x 


Page 
STOCK.     (See  Matthiola)  . 

.....     255,  336,  345,  357 
STRAWBERRY   TREE..    (See   Arbu- 
tus)      70 

STREPTOCARPUS     .:....  362 

STREPTOSOLEN 159 

STYRAX      .     ...     ...     .     .      .160 

serrulata        160 

SUBSOIL 37 

plowing 37 

SUCCULENTS    .     .     .     .     .     .     .  217 

SUCKERS,  PROPAGATION  BY  .     .     .315 
SULPHUR  FOR  MILDEW   ....  303 

SUMMER-HOUSE        .....  365 

SUNFLOWER.     (See  Helianthus)     250 

SWAINSONIA         160 

SWEET  PEA.     (See  Lathyrus  odo- 

ratus)  .  .  175,  336,  341,  353 
SWEET  WILLIAM.  (See  Dianthus)  243 
SYCAMORE.  (See  Platanus)  .  . 

19,  144,  324 

SYNCARPIA 160 

laurifolia 160 

SYRINGING  PLANTS   .     .  333,  355,  362 

SYRINGA   (Lilac) 161 

Japonica        .     .     .     ...     .   161 

Persica     .......   161 

vulgaris 161 

TAMARIX 162 

Gallica 162 

Orientalis 162 

parviflora 162 

plumosa 162 

TANK,  WATER 18 

TAXODIUM    (Swamp  Cypress).       162 

distichum 162 

mucronata    (Montezuma   Cy- 
press)          162 

TAXUS   (Yew) 163 

baccata 163 

argentea      ....   163 

"       aurea 163 

"       fastigiata     .     .     .      .163 
TEMPLETONIA    (Coral    Bush)    .       163 

TERRACED  FRONT 337 

THISTLE 58 

THRIPS  •     •     -305 


Page 

THUYA 164 

gigantea         164 

Occidentalis 164 

Orientalis 164 

THUYOPSIS  DOLOBRATA  ....  165 

TIGRIDIA 191 

TILES,  DRAINAGE 38 

TILIA    (Linden) 165 

TOBACCO,  FOR  GREEN  FLY      .      303,  348 

fumigation   with      ....  304 

TOP-DRESSING.     (See  mulching)     309 

TORREYA   (False  Nutmeg  Tree)     165 

Coulterii        165 

grandis 165 

TRADESCANTIAS    .     .     .     .     .     .  340 

TRANSPLANTING        47 

care  of  roots  in 51 

deciduous  trees  and  shrubs  .  48 
Eucalyptus  and  Acacia  .  .  48 
hole  for,  size  and  shape,  etc.  48 

operation  of 48 

Pine  and  Cypress  ....     48 

staking 52 

time  for 47 

TRANSVAAL    DAISY.      (See    Ger- 

beria  Jamiesonii)    ....  246 
TREES 

Blending  of  groups      .      .     . 
column-shaped        ....     17 
deciduous      ...     14,    48,  372 

disposition  of 14 

evergreens  .  .  14,  47,  48,  371 
form  and  habit.  .  '  .  .  •  14 
grouping  of  .  8,  11,  13 

hardy        7>     13 

mapping  out      ..... 
planting  and  transplanting  .     47 
preparation  of  the  ground  for      37 

•j  i  14 

pyramidal 

roots,  care  of 

round-headed 

selection   of ' 

staking 52 

TRENCHING     .     . 

for  lawns 

TRISTANIA      .... 

TRITOMA 37° 


[397 


ardening    in 


California 


Page 
TROP^EOLUM   (Nasturtium)      .     .  274 

speciosa 275 

tuberosum 275 

TUBEROSE.    (See  Polianthes  tube- 

rosa)         189 

TUBEROUS  ROOTED  PLANTS  .  .  .  181 
TULIP  .  191,  297,  298,  334,  367,  370 
TULIP  TREE.  (See  Lirioden- 

dron) 128 

TURK'S  CAP.     (See  Achania) .     .     67 

TYD^A 341 

ULMUS   (Elm) 166 

Americana     .     .     ....     .   166 

campestris     .     .     .     .     .     .   166 

scabra 166 

UMBELLULARIA  CALIFORNICA  (Cal- 
ifornia Laurel)       ....   167 
UMBRELLA    TREE.       (See     Melia 

Azedarach)        134 

UMBRELLA  PLANT 347 

VERBASCUM   (Mullen)        .     .     .275 

VERBENA 275,  336,  345 

Sweet    scented.      (See    Alo- 
ysia  citriodora)    ....     68 

VERONICA        104,  167 

Andersonii 168 

buxifolia 168 

Colensoi        168 

decussata       ...     59,  167,  168 

elliptica         168 

VIBURNUM 168 

Japonicum 169 

macrophyllum 169 

opulus  sterilis   (Snowball)    .   168 

tinus 168 

tomentosum 169 

VICTORIA  REGIA 287 

VIOLA  (Pansy) 276 

cornuta     or     horned     violet 

277,  298,  363 

odorata   (Violet)    ....  278 
VIOLET.     (See  Viola  odorata)     .  278 

California 278 

Marie  Louise 278 

Neapolitan 278 

Princess  of  Wales       .     .     .278 
VIOLET 297,  341,  361 


Page 
VIPER'S  BUGLOSS.     (See  Echium)     96 

VlRGILIA    LUTEA 169 

VIRGINIA  CREEPER.     (See  Ampel- 
opsis  quinquefolia)      .     .     .   170 

WALKS 40,  369 

bed  of      .     .     ...     .     .44 

bottoming 44 

construction   of 40 

crowning 42 

finishing         46 

grading 40,    44 

grass 321 

location  of 5 

rock  for 44 

rolling 44,    46 

shaping 44 

staking  off 5,    40 

WALLFLOWER.    (See  Cheiranthus) 

235,  357,  363 

WALNUT.  (See  Juglans) .  .  .119 
WASHINGTONIA  (California  Fan 

Palm)       . 199 

filifera 201 

Sonorea 201 

WATER,  DISTRIBUTION  OF     ...     17 

drainage  of 38 

for  bamboos       .     .     .      209,  210 

for  ferns 205 

for  lawns 56 

for  trees  and  shrubs  .  .  .362 
for  window-box  plants  .  .  297 
for  young  seedlings  .  .  .311 

-garden 280 

Pipe 17 

after  transplanting  ...  52 
stagnant  in  soil  ....  39 

supply  of 2,     17 

tank 18 

WATER-LILIES       ....      284,  285 

boxes   for 284 

setting  out 285 

soil  for 285 

-^varieties 284 

WEEDS  IN  LAWNS  .  .  .  .  54,  57 
WEIGELIA.  (See  Diervillea)  95,  356 
WHALE-OIL  SOAP  FOR  APHIDES  303,  348 
WHIN,  EUROPEAN  .  146 


398 


Ind 


e  x 


Page 

WlGANDIA 333 

WILD  FLOWERS    ....      336,  342 

WILLOW.     (See  Salix)     153,  285,  287 

Babylonian  weeping     .      153,  291 

golden 153 

white        153 

WINDOW-BOX        294 

care    of    and    general    treat- 
ment      297,  298 

drainage  of 294 

insects  injurious  to      ...  298 

overhauling        297 

plants  for 294 

size 294 

soil  for 294 

watering        297 


Page 

WIRE  WORMS 369 

WISTARIA       180 

Japonica        '180 

Mutijuga 180 

Sinensis 180 

speciosa         180 

WOOD  ASHES  FOR  SLUGS.       ...    307 

WOODBINE.     (See  Lonicera)   .     .176 

WOODSIA 205 

WOODWARDIA        ....     205,  293 
YEW.     (See  Taxus)     ....  163 

English 324,  326 

Irish  or  Florence  Court  .     .  163 
ZINNIA 278,  335,  345 


[399] 





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